wasyl00

Why not going number 1 but with custom panels. I will be going that route in coming days. For the price you spend on two tablets you may be OK with that solution pricewise. I will be doing exactly that: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=144269&highlight=mfd+home Based on picture attached you are a tinkerer and DIY is not something new to you. Also I don't see much space below your screens for additional big panel. Edit: Forgot to mention that you will need an extra 2 video outputs (best HDMI or Display port) but that wont be an issue once you upgrade your Graphics

This subject was probably beaten to death in the past but I decided to go ahead and make my TrackClip Pro wireless. Because since I bought the wireless headset there is nothing more annoying than to be still tethered by the bloody Trackclip power cable :music_whistling: So idea is to make reasonably long lasting rechargeable power solution on the cheap. Part list with prices is below. I won’t include tools or insulting tape I had lying around. 1. Battery – Nokia Li-ion BL-4C 3.7V 860mAh - £2 on eBay 2. Charging circuit - Adafruit Micro Lipo w/MicroUSB Jack - USB LiIon/LiPoly charger - £7 on eBay 3. Adafruit JST-PH Battery Extension Cable – £2 on cpc.farnell.com 4. Self Adhesive Sticky Back velcro tape - £2 on eBay 5. Micro USB cable to charge the battery, (unless you don’t have one - £1 on eBay) Now, why I decided to choose this battery? First, it’s very cheap, has small and light form factor, it’s really thin and has easy to solder terminals. Also Li-ion batteries have better energy density and self-discharge characteristics then common RC Lipo batteries. Based on my personal experience the Trackclip pro doesn’t really need 5V power and works just as good on the good 3.7v power source. If for some reason you wish to attach a bigger or different battery there is excellent guide with sizes and terminal layouts for Nokia batteries HERE. I should mention that you will have to cripple your Trackclip permanently in the process and also some simple soldering will be required for this mod. Now, there is way to still reuse the redundant USB cable by crimping a simple JST-PH 1s 2 pin plug to it (the one left from Adafruit JST-PH Battery Extension Cable will do) and keep it as an emergency power supply. Step1. Solder the JST-PH cable, which came with the charger board, to battery and wrap it in the insulating tape to secure the solder. Cut the Velcro and apply it to the battery and back of the TrackClip. You can go with the double sided tape if you prefer the permanent solution, but I wanted mine removable. What’s great with the Velcro you can also apply it on the headset if you prefer to stick the battery there. Step2. Solder close the jumper on the charger board to change to charging current from 100mA to 500mA. This will shorten the charging time from overnight to around 2.5 hrs. Don’t worry this will not kill the battery. It’s designed to take fast charge at this rate. Step3. Desolder the USB cable from the Trackclip and solder previously cut JST-PH extension cable instead. You can hot glue the solder and cable or at least make a knot in the enclosure to avoid pulling it out at some point during the usage. Step4. Done! Enjoy the untethered experience. Optional step 4. Make emergency power cable. Solder what's left from the Adafruit JST-PH Battery Extension Cable and Trackclip USB power cord together. I’m yet to test the battery life but I expect several hours on one charge.:thumbup:

Or if you're interested you can calculate amount the power you need for your system using THIS website. I would really not recommend buying overkill, waste of money. PSU are usually most efficient around 80-90% of the max load. It’s better to invest in higher quality one.

I wouldn’t lose hope guys. I think the half-moon and other hand, wand like devices are only temporary solutions for the 3D input. If you analyse acquisitions made by Oculus in the past for example Nimble (I would call them Leap Motion V2.0) and most recent Pebble Interfaces with amazing optic based algorithms you would see that there must be something good brewing in the Oculuses R&D department. Edit: It's pretty amazing how Pebble Interfaces is dealing with the occlusion issue.

Hi Lucky, from my experience the ball is really tough to break +1 for Thrustmaster for that but if you don't want to risk it try unscrewing the ring around the base (8 screws) plus another 4 under and then you will get an access to the lower part of the ball which will make thing easier for you.

Thrustmaster Warthog joystick extension mod - various lengths Hi meastro72x, Its a matter of personal preference really. Everyone will give you different opinion here. But the general rule when picking the extension is that you would pick a longer stick for helos and more demanding planes like props and stick with the shorter when flying mainly easy planes like A10. But that's my observation.

Great job! Solution like this will be mandatory with the first gen of HMDs out there.:thumbup:

Oculus Special Live Event June 11 Expect some big reveal from Oculus in about a few hours. It will be live streamed! https://www.oculus.com/en-us/ Less than 7 hours left :) I bet on the final consumer form and the input device.

Ragtop. Following are requested measurements. I took two dimensions from the max forward position of the stick so you should have idea how much space is required in front of the stick. X - horizontal distance from the front of the base under the stick to the end of boundary created by deflecting stick (geez sound confusing but see pic) Y - vertical distance between deflecting stick and base Now measurements [in millimeters] Stock (no extension) - X = 98, Y = 195 Stick + 80mm extended - X= 124, Y = 265 Stick + 100mm extended - X = 132, Y = 285 Stick + 120mm extended - X = 137, Y = 310 Hope that helps..

Hi Ragtop, I will take some measurements for you when I get home later today.

Haha great post ED I was laughing for like 5 minutes:megalol:

Stock update Hi All. Many thanks for all positive feedback! 03 April 2015 - Update: All extensions in stock - shipping on the next working day cheers,

Wow cool! Please once you set up the whole thing let me know how the monitor (especially with g-sync on) is handling the framerate dips in DCS.

Did you updgrade your GPU drivers in the meantime? Try rolling back.

Hello Bit. Give some more details about your pit. Especially what type of seat you use. Is it normal office chair or something lower like obutto racing chair? Whats really important how far is your seat from the floor? - this can vary. Are you planning to mount it also between your legs or side?

I have Buttkicker Gamer 2 and use it all the time. Highly recommended not only for Sims also great to other games, music and movies. Basically feedback is driven by sound source so it (amp) can be hooked to any sound producing source. Only requirement is to have suitable mounting place, office chair is ideal. Most racing seats also have mounting location for it as standard. Only thing which is missing, for more demanding users may be the fact that DCS doesn't have support from software like SimVibe which is using physics data extracted from the sim to give you more accurate feedback instead of sound source. Maybe it's a detail for some but I noticed big difference in the other especially driving sims. And little off topic recommendation for all those who like tactile feedback. Check out THESE headphones. I bought them around 2 months ago and man...they have THE KICK. The trick is they have an extra driver (powered by single AA battery) which instead of sound is producing vibrations aaaand is able to shake nicely in tune with Buttkicker. For me absolutely great exerience.

As far as I know that is the best gaming 1440p, low latency TN panel with G-Sync you can get at the moment. It's on my future shopping list :thumbup: I know low latency is not absolutely essential for simming but if you got Nvidia 660 or newer card (for G-Sync) and play also other games you will not regret it. Check out Linustech tips review of this panel

New batch of extensions is ready to ship TM Warthog extensions are finally back in stock. As before there are three sizes available and the extension cable is included. To simplify the purchase process I created special purchase website with Paypal checkout. Please see the first post for the link.

Small update Hi Rocky49, Yes I'm busy making final preparations. I will announce the sale soon :thumbup: cheers,

Thanks cichlidfan. I haven't thought about powder coating. I will ask around.

so what would be the best option in this case?

yep pretty much this, a can of black spray paint should do the job :)

Hi Rocky49, Small update. As mentioned before I started working with another manufacturer and I think we are making good progress. Initial test samples have been done and I really like the quality that company provides. Check attached picture of these samples. The next batch production should start very soon. Stay tuned!

Update Hi Rocky49. Apologies. I've been flying under the radar recently. Its not a secret, mainly due to changes in my private life. Situation is more stabilized now and I can really focus my attention on pushing forward with the service I provide. I decided to research for alternative source for the next batch because I'm really disappointed with the communication breakdown I'm experiencing with the current supplier. So hopefully soon I will announce more solid dates for the next batch. Fear not my main objective with the new supplier is to keep the prices on the same level. I will also make sure the quality to be at least as good as the before.