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hog_driver111th

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Everything posted by hog_driver111th

  1. I flew this mission today, and was wondering (since I didn't see it) if you could put in 2 separate JTACs for multiple flights. Having TARS could really make this interesting with the channel switching.
  2. Dude Flim, that setup is awesome! I'd be happy with just the seat and front monitor (since I can't make aircores for the instruments).
  3. If we could get legs in the pit, can we have the head of the pilot in MP move up and down also? It'd be great for no-comm takeoffs... just nod your head to release brakes.
  4. And with the beta release of TARS for A-10, we have something new to play with. This radio thing is awesome!
  5. Headspace, After a few tests everything seems to be working as stated by the others. I should mention though that if a pilot ejects and did not have the AM radio set to TX, then he will not be able to transmit on guard while on the ground. The only other bug I've run into aside from what Zero-Mass has stated is turning on and off TARS within Teamspeak. If we have it on, but wish to turn it off, it will crash the program. We are running the latest version of TS. Otherwise, this is totally awesome!
  6. It seems to me to be realistic, however, having flown a flight the other day above 20k ft, I needed to put on the emergency oxygen to keep from blacking out. That however, isn't realistic. I also wasn't pulling Gs or and maneuver that would require extra oxygen, and I've flown real world wearing the Gentex HGU-55/P over 20k without turning on the 100%. I should mention though that when 100% emergency is switched on (all 3 switches up, not just red and green like in the sim), really tastes awesome! Like kitnap for humans, hehe.
  7. Sorry to post again, but I found this. I'm not sure if it would work or not, and it's a little large, but thought I'd let you know about it... http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1115298&k=3003bb
  8. Hey boot, when you make up your lists of stuff for us, can you PM me about how you made and wired your PCBoard? I can buy a PCB here in Germany that looks easy to work with, but if using a Master Card from Open Cockpits, would I have to wire each tactile switch to the card, or... My front panel is about half done (still haven't gotten my buttons) being cut out of wood. I may have a free way to make the front panel out of using an old VCR cover (hehe)... I just need to have my wife let me buy an attachment for my dremel tool. The wiring is something I'm not sure on though. Oh, I have the image you made from the panel parts (thanks btw!), but I'm confused on how you ordered the Master Caution Switch. I couldn't actually find where to order it on the website and how much it cost.
  9. I'm totally ready to download this! It just sucks that most of you will probably get it before me, since it's already 8pm my time, and the wife doesn't like it when I stay up late to play games, lol
  10. This is so awesome! I can't wait to try it out!
  11. Rocketeer, that CDU looks great! I've order around 100 tactiles, with the square and round caps for both the CDU and UFC. Are you going to wire each to an OC mastercard? I've also order an OC mastercard and USB card, plus the software.
  12. It actually takes a minimum of 4 minutes for the EGI and everything to fully align, but as you said, learning the Cold Start procedures makes it more fun... and it's not that difficult to learn. After the first 2 or 3 times, if you do it right.
  13. Shouldn't that depend on the size of the fridge? Over here in Germany, they are pretty thin. Now, if you use the one my parents have in NJ back home, it'd be like sitting in an A-6 Intruder pit, hehe.
  14. Money is seriously tight... Fridge isn't working right so can't actually build the pit with switches and things yet. I am waiting on my OC cards though. And yes, my wife has a sister, lol.
  15. I'm reposting this message in here, since it was moved into the "wishlist" area... which is specifically where I didn't want it to go... so please don't get on me for not posting in the wishlist area. This is a "need assistance", not "I have a wish", so mods, please don't move it again. When repainting the A-10C (which I can do just fine, and looks great) I'm having an issue with the board numbers. Is there a way for the ME to set a 3 digit board number instead of a 2 digit? It's really tough to paint 1 digit, and enter the other 2 digits into the ME and get it all aligned properly. It would also make repainting so much easier. Better yet, is there a way so that I can paint all 3 numbers on the tail/nose so each person in the server sees it... or whichever way would work best? As you can see in the photo, sort of, the first "4" in "454" looks different. That's the one I painted on using Amarillo Font, but can't get it to looks just like the others. Can someone help? This repaint is made for the 76th vTFS "Tankbusters" No other issues here so far with Beta 4, and I'm really loving this sim (I think my wife knows it too... she's let me buy the TIR5, TM MFDs, Pedals, and I'm soon getting the TM WH, plus!... She's letting me build a full realistic cockpit of the A-10C).:thumbup:
  16. A-10C Textures I'm not sure where to post this question, and part of it is a wish... so please don't get on me for not posting in the wishlist area. When repainting the A-10C (which I can do just fine, and looks great), aside from the issues with MP that I haven't testing in Beta 4 about only the server admin seeing his/her own jet in the colors selected... I'm still having an issue with the board numbers. Is there a way that it can be changed for the ME to set a 3 digit board number instead of a 2 digit? It's really tough to paint 1 digit, and enter the other 2 digits into the ME and get it all aligned properly. It would also make repainting so much easier. (Better yet, can you allow it so that I can paint all 3 numbers on the tail/nose so each person in the server sees it... or whichever way would work best?) No other issues here so far with Beta 4, and I'm really loving this sim (I think my wife knows it too... she's let me buy the TIR5, TM MFDs, Pedals, and I'm soon getting the TM WH, plus!... She's letting me build a full realistic cockpit of the A-10C).:thumbup: As you can see in the photo, sort of, the first "4" in "454" looks different. That's the one I painted on using Amarillo Font, but can't get it to looks just like the others. This repaint is made for the 76th vTFS "Tankbusters"
  17. I'm actually working on some custom skins, but one thing I've noticed, which is a little annoying... when painting the tail numbers, 3 digits, you can only paint the first number. The last 2 numbers are added in the Mission Editor for Board Number. IE: My number is 454. I can only paint the first 4, and leave the rest of the area blank. The 54 is what I have to add in the ME. If I try and paint 454, the 54 doesn't match where the sim puts it and it looks off. Also, on the knee extension numbers, it's the last digit of the year, plus the 3.... so 1454. I can only paint the 14, and the 54 comes in automatically from the ME. Makes it tough when setting up a big MP mission, although from what I understand, only 1 skin is visible in MP at this moment.
  18. I totally wanted to buy at this price, but the boss said no (wife)... why oh why did the refridgerator have to break last week? Hopefully they will have another screw-up real soon.
  19. I'm planning on making this same panel, but for me it would be out of wood, since I don't have any way to machine panels (just me, my dremel tool, and a block of wood). I had used frontpanelexpress to build the front panel, and it looks pretty good (for me at least). I would probably make the buttons out of wood also, but I have no idea how to make a pcboard. I was thinking I could just wire tactile switches to an OC mastercard to a USB card... or is that the wrong route? If I can "machine" the front panel out of wood (doesn't need to be backlit for now), are you ordering the buttons from somewhere that are the right size? I have them measured at 9mm square (using the buttons from my TM MFDs as reference). I could sure use a parts and price list as there are some things I may want to just buy and save time on.
  20. Anyone good with electronics that can tell me if these tactile switches would be a good idea for the CDU and UFD in the warthog? They are really cheap, and I'd probably buy around 150 of them for a total of $10 including shipping. I already have a few panels cut out of wood, ready to be painted and engraved (by hand...). If I can get the tactile switches and wire them to an OC card with SIOC (sp?) they should work fine within A-10C. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-1663/Tact-Switch-TACT-SWITCH/Detail
  21. Conure, your specs are pretty close to mine. I can fly pretty smooth unless there's a lot of AI aircraft. When I turn on the MAV or TGP, it does slow down a little bit, (more with the MAV) so unless I know I'm going for a MAV shot, I keep it on the CDU or DSMS screen. Otherwise, the sim is very playable (I just got done doing a 2-ship flight with a buddy knocking out trucks and BTRs. Tanks won't die from guns though).
  22. Sweet looking Cali! Hope your wife's friend's dad can help us out with our pits. ;)
  23. I'm not sure this qualifies as an idea, but thought I would interject it. In FSX/FS9 while flying online with FSINN or Squawkbox, to talk on the radio, you actually have to tune your aircraft comm radio to the proper frequency. If you can get this to work for coordination between pilots, ATC, Tankers (later during MP missions) it would be extremely cool! :thumbup:
  24. Thanks Feed. That's about the same I was thinking, but I had also thought that the top panel (what we see) is thin aluminum covering the clear light panel over the aluminum base... but not sure how it was done. I'll talk to him and just say "I want a panel made like the real ones with backlighting" and see what happens. hehe. Pictures coming soon!
  25. Good to know about the cards. I'll start out with 1 master and 1 usb card, and see where it takes me. I also got an offer from a Lufthansa Mx Manager I know to make my panels for me... question is, he said that they are aluminum... but if they are, how do they get the backlighting? You guys using aluminum for your panels, can you give me a hint here? I'd rather take my stuff to him all ready to be cut out instead of going back to him afterwards needing it a different way.
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