Nopileus

If you have the serial for BS1 you could just download it from here and install it normally. http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/downloads/previous_versions/dcs_black_shark_english/

Even the 750watt has plenty of overhead left, especially since this is a well reputed high quality power supply. The numbers the manufacturers of CPUs and GPUs often throw at you are mainly to make sure that people who cheap out on the PSU get a working machine. Cheap PSUs are often rated much higher than they can actually deliver and end in fireworks if you try to put some load on them.

After a late night soldering session and plenty of wires it turned out good. I mixed up left/right on the hat but can't be bothered to change that. The grip is from a Thrustmaster X-Fighter. To mount the grip i just wrapped electrical tape around the shaft and screwed on the grip around it, this results in a perfectly solid connection. This is also without any modifications to the FFB2s plastic parts so i can reverse it if need be.

I'm in the process of putting a new grip in my FFB2 but have run into a problem. Extracting the PCB that houses the sticks buttons i have found that they are wired up in an unconventional way involving four little three-legged ICs and only using 6 wires for 8 buttons. I am searching for a way to wire this up without using sixteen wires since room inside the sticks shaft is limited and i want to understand how this works. I have uploaded Pictures of it here http://imgur.com/a/B8Q0p and also tried marking the traces here http://imgur.com/a/BtfYx As you can see the brown and red wires lead to two of the ICs each, these split up lines each make contact with one switch. Every one of the other colours is then connected to the other legs of two different switches. My knowledge of electronics is somewhat limited, so i have no idea what i am looked at here.

Well one board is an LED Controller, the other a Joystick controller. I fail to see the need to compare them.

This looks fantastically shit (in a good way), really adds some character to the hog.

LAlt + C changes between mouse view and clicky mouse, try that.

Remember that you can not just slap hall sensors on something and expect perfect operation, its actually rather hard to achieve a linear response. If you just want more resolution on the Rudder you could purchase a leo bodnar 12bit USB Controller and a high quality potentiometer. This would give you 4096 steps while still being linear. The Warthog uses a very specialized proprietary hall sensor, you won't achieve this level of resolution with DIY gear, not at last because of a lack of 16bit interfaces.

I just spent a while trying to find this, good find.

Actually the view on the right seat is tilted downwards slightly, while the view on the left seat is not. This has been done on purpose as far as i understand it.

Modules with the "DCS: ... " name are studysims. Everything else will be "for DCS", just like FC3.

Great Mod, the difference is rather subtle but it adds a great amount of depth since you now have visual cues to tell you about the windshield. Before it was more like sitting in an open frame. Very nicely done!

Nothing in existance is good enough for DCS maxed, i'm serious. You will want the biggest Intel CPU you can afford since AMD is currently lacking performance and DCS is incredibly CPU heavy. An i5 is actually fine since the added hyperthreading of an i7 doesn't benefit DCS right now.

sorry, i just had to

Start up DCS World -> Click Module Manager -> Press Install on the Huey Module Make sure you are logged in with the account you bought the Huey with.

Start DCS World, go the Module Manager and install the Huey from there. Make sure you are logged in with the account you bought the Huey with.

As of 1.2.4.12179 these seem to have been fixed Nice response time guys :thumbup:

Activate "Central Trimmer Mode" in the Special section of the options.

Das hatten wir die Tage doch schonmal, suche das nächste mal selbst bevor du fragst. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=106082

http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/206727/ This should do it.

The mechanics of both pedals are identical, the only different part is the thing you put your feet on. They also both have the same center notch. I'd get the pro flight ones, i'm quite happy with mine after i removed the notch. If you think the different design is worth the extra money then get the combat ones.

Nur in den USA über Amazon und Uplay. Ich empfehle dir bei Amazon.de eine gebrauchte Version von LOMAC zu kaufen, das kostet dich ca. 5€ Serial gibt es keinen, alles was du brauchst ist die CD. ED hat allerdings angekündigt die F-15 und SU-27 im laufe des Jahres mit AFM auszustatten und als standlone zu verkaufen. (dann sind aller Code auf den Ubisoft die IP Rechte hat ersetzt worden) Geht es dir also nur um diese beiden kannst du auch darauf warten.

Here you go 3D gaps.trk

When looking around in the cockpit i found some gaps in the model, i attached some pictures where i marked them. The rear doors also have them, but i'm unsure how this looks in the real helicopter.

Make a shortcut for the dcs_updater.exe and add "update: 1.2.4.11652" to the path in the preferences off the shortcut something like this ".../bin/dcs_updater.exe" update: 1.2.4.11652 then open that shortcut and it should (might?) roll it back Edit: i also remember a page where you could link and un-link keys to your account for multiplayer, however i can't seem to find it anymore.