recoilfx

I've been doing something like this since I got my Quest Pro. Super easy to switch back and forth. No lag, and very accurate. It's now has elastic bands instead of electrical tapes.

Following @Hempstead's inspiration, I mocked up something quick with the Quest Pro's controller using electrical tape. A slightly different take on the strap. It's more like a thumb loop, and using the existing strap to stabilize the tail end of the grip. I could stabilize it more if I replace the existing strap with an elastic paracord I think. It works super well with the F-16 throttle grip and I am super happy. Thank you so much Hempstead! I In terms of usage, this is way better than using the mouse, trackpad, OpenXR toolkit, or HTCC. No lag, very accurate tracking, and no unexpected/rejected clicking gestures.

I have a bass shaker mounted underneath my VKB Gunfighter, and it's super helpful flying the P-51 on its stall envelope due to the buffeting effect - I would be super interested at how the F-16EX grip perform. I would only use it to buffeting effects, where as the bass shaker can focus on the g-loading and over speed effects more.

Hmm.. perhaps a modular base with ability to switch sub module panels? Like potentially put in a UFC? Or a trackpad? Or whatever group of rotary encoders and switches?

Sorry to burst your bubble, your 3090 doesn't have enough horsepower 45fps repro with 88% resolution is what I'm managing on my 3080ti right now. Using Speed of Heat shader mod and a mix of DCS medium/high settings. DCS is pretty enjoyable as long as you don't fly around Mariana Islands or really complex missions (like the F-16 D-day Normandy quick mission). I am personally using the universal shader mod for now because I love CAS on the ground textures, it feels like putting on glasses and I can see again. FSR doesn't really do it for me because I can get the same performance by lowering the resolution by the same amount and it looks worse against CAS filtering.

Selling this as I have moved on to MCG Ultimate. This grip has never really been used actually, previously I was using the Warthog grip with my Gunfighter so it's in excellent condition. The grey button caps are also included. The base connector is Rev B, but I can include Rev A connector if you have an early version Gunfighter (MkI). Please note that there is thin layer of electric tape around the metal base (see photo). The first batch of MCG Pro grips had a slight slack on the base and I was advised to wrap electrical tape to take up the stack. The grip works perfectly and does not creak or have micro movements on the base.

Thanks. The reason why I chose linear rails is because I dislike the mini stick on the Cougar. The Cougar has a smaller travel distance than its real life counterpart, so TM try to get by increasing rotational angle. My big gripe is that the axes of the mini stick changes you rotate/push the throttle, it's hard to develop muscle memory to know the exact X & Y axes of the mini stick, leading to some wiggly motion when I first start slewing. With linear rail, the angle of the throttle remains constant, it's easier to learn how to slew accurately. In the future, I may swap the location of mini stick with the index finger hat (kind of like A-10/F-18) where the angle is a lot less awkward.

Ahh ok, i thought you meant why i chose a regular pot instead of a con tactless sensor. Well, I am not going to 100% accuracy here, just what works right for me, so the pinky lever is now an analog brake lever (since I like it for Brit/Rus Warbrds). You still need to lift the handle to push thru the AB stop though.

That's a TT/BI P160K pot. It's cheap, good quality(100K cycle), easily mounted, and most importantly, I have coupe of them laying around. The effective resolution is around 8 bit (native is 10 bit on the Arduino, but using around 1/3 of the rotation), so it's way enough for brake lever.

That's awesome! I am also working on a F-16 TQS, which is also based on Hempstick's work. Though instead of a rotating throttle axis, I opted for linear rails. Which ALPS switch model is that encoder+hat switch? How is it wired up? Did it require any diodes or matrices? I am thinking of converting the hats from the TM style hats to the ALPS ones. Thanks!

Donated!

Congrats on the Nyogel :) There is actually an even more viscous version(774VH). I've never tried it though. 767A works well enough for me.

Fuel tank and weight. TF-51 feels far more agile.

I've been preaching about Nyogel for years here - finally more people are noticing :) Warthog's gimbal suddenly lives up to its potential with this lube.

Here is what I have. Enabled filtering, and haven't messed around with the buttons to match Warthog's order yet. Here are my current cam profiles. They are just slightly different as the Y-axis cam needs to be asymmetrical to counter the front heavy Warthog grip. If you are planning to use my profiles with your gimbal, it will most likely not work, as the dimensions would be different. I have created a tool that automates most of the cam work and I may release it someday if I find the time to clean up the code.

Yeah I'll try the filter thing and see what happens. Like I said before, it doesn't show up in gameplay, so it may be a moot point. Really anything beyond 1024 steps is overkill, mechanical accuracy matters much more. I don't have email of the seller - It took me a while to figure out that Taobao uses Alibaba's own instant messenger's system for communication with sellers (yes, they don't use emails for some crazy reason!). You can get it here: http://wangwang.taobao.com. But.. it's all Chinese...

MK2 version of my gimbal more or less completed. It's working with MMJoy2!!! WOOO! The Pro Micro board from China is working well - I had some questions about the pin outs for the shifter register ports, but the seller was very helpful and I got it resolved very quickly. The gimbal has about 40 degrees of throw, and the effective resolution seems to be around 1600 steps (10-11 bit). There is a bit of jitter, but nothing that actually shows up in game play. Just need to do some finishing touches now!

Honestly, the Warthog gimbal design is actually pretty good, they just need tighter tolerances and good grease. Offering lighter springs can also make it more palatable to space/arcade sims. In any case, I am excited to see what they have in store for us.

Does anyone have issues with the WWII planes's gunsights? I feel like they are super close and they are giving me eye strains (feel like I can't get them focused). Moving to the back of the cockpit helps somewhat, but it's still really uncomfortable. Modern jets are better with their big HUDs. And yes, I have already tried the IPD slider to no avail. I wonder if I have some weird vision problem....

Well.. I finally received my goods from Taobao. It took extra long because the seller opted to use Taobao's international shipping. The goods get shipped to a local holding warehouse, where I then have to pay extra (another $20 something dollars) to get it shipped abroad. I didn't know about that part, so the goods were sitting for a good while before I figured out that I had to fork over more money. So total came around to something like $50 - still not too bad. Things seem to work well, I haven't screw around with it much yet. I am still finalizing some changes on my smaller gimbal design, once that's done I'll dive into the electronics more. Here is what ~$50 got me: It seems like the seller is taking orders for the boards again, but from what I understand based on my poor reading skill, he is not shipping till 4 months later - something about busy with life.

I am not sure what the specs are for those grease as they are not listed, so I can't compare it to Nyogel. Sorry! They do say they are used for damping knobs and lenses, which are what Nyogel is used for. However, we need to know the visiciousity rating.

Nope, that grease is extremely light compare to what's in the Saitek throttles and rudders.

Well... I told you about a grease that works pretty much the same... you can order a tube of Nyogel 767A here: http://newgateonline.com/nyogel-767a-100gram-tube.html or here: http://www.oveready.com/nyogel-lubricants/nyogel-767aa-lubricant-10cc-precision-plunger-/prod_421.html

Nope, Saitek doesn't use white lithium grease on their throttles from what I remembered. The x52 has the same kind of grease that the Pro Rudders uses on the adjustment pressure knob. Extremely heavy and tacky, and semi-transparent in color if i remember correctly.

I think that class of grease is called damping grease. I bought a tube of Nyogel 767A and my Warthog stick stiction problem went away instantly. I haven't had to reapply anything for years. It's still super smooth and there is a slight 'hydraulic' feel to it. Love it. I even use it on my Cougar throttle with the same fantastic result.