doveman

OK, thanks.

Hi I was looking at the screenshots last night and now they all look different to how I recall. For instance, the second set, with just your villages mod, the ground looks darker/darker green and the texture of the ground looks rather different, when I don't think it did before and the Foxbeard screenshots were a very bright/vivid green which I didn't really like and now they're not, in fact the Toby23's screenshots have a more vivid green now. I note you say you've updated with new SweetFX screenshots, so I'm wondering if you used the same settings for all of them, as otherwise it's a bit hard to tell which I prefer as I'm not sure if I'm judging the mod or the SFX settings. In fact, maybe it's best to not use SFX at all for comparison screenshots, as one lot of settings might not suit all the mods equally and it's probably quite subjective what people prefer anyway?

Thanks, I'd tried a number of variants on the export name LEFT_MFCD = ED_KA50_SHKVAL = SHKVAL = but after reading the files, it seems it's case-sensitive as ED_KA50_Shkval = is working now :) Although after all that, I'm undecided about having the Shvkal on my second monitor in Helios, as I can actually have it bigger, via a snapview, on my main monitor and I have a lot of difficulty spotting things anyway ;)

Thanks Highwayman, that makes life a lot simpler. Just have to decide between your low'n'slow combo or your DTAC combo now ;)

I rebuilt my clip today and was trying it with Falki's profile in the afternoon and it was actually quite solid in the Black Shark. I think what might have made the difference is that I'd measured the Model Position offsets as -150, 80, 50 but I ran the calibration inside FTNoIR and that calculated 120, -86, -1! I'm sure I measured right as I had a friend take the measurements to double-check as it was a bit impractical to do them accurately by myself whilst wearing my headphones and clip (I was fairly close but a bit off on some as I recall). Whatever, it seemed to work better after letting FTNoIR decide what to use ;) However, it wasn't perfect as it would lose tracking and stick if I tried to turn far enough to look at my 9'o clock, which made it impossible to view the KA-50 Wall panel and certainly not the back panel (I had to pause tracking and use the mouse to view that) and when I tried it later in the evening, FTNoIR was now having trouble tracking 3 points consistently, even though I hadn't changed anything. So I decided to take the plunge and remove the IR filter. I must have had the most awkward PS3 Eye in the world and it took me about an hour to even open the chassis as it seems to have been glued tight, so I had to scratch a groove along all the seams before I could start to pull the two halves apart. Once dismantled, I then had to spend another hour carving away this hard dry stuff that was encasing the IR filter before I managed to get it out. Put the thing back together, expecting amazing results but it still seems rather fussy :( Even with my layered coloured plastic daylight filter (Green, Green, Red, Blue - I might not need two Green layers but previously I found two layers blocked visible light better, except two Blues blocked too much IR so I had to stick with one of that) and the Gain on 0, Exposure on about 50% and the White Balance on 40%, I've had to set FTNoIR as shown in these screenshots. As you can see in the first screenshot, where I'm looking straight ahead, the blobs are rather big so I've had to increase the min/max Diameter but I've also had to set the Threshold to near the top, when I'm sure the advice I've received previously was to set it as near the other end as possible, so something doesn't seem right. The second screenshot is with me looking to my left and up a bit, where it seems to hold tracking OK. The third screenshot is with me looking to my right and up a bit, where it struggles and tends to lose a point (or sometimes find a fourth!). It's particularly annoying as it's turning right that was giving me problems before and I thought it was just because the blobs were too weak through the IR filter and so getting lost when the LEDs were turned away from the camera but clearly they're not too weak now and it's still losing them for some reason :( Do my images look similar to what other people who've removed the IR filter see and do you have to use similar settings to me (both camera settings (gain, exposure, white balance) and FTNoIR settings)?

Is anyone using this OK with 1.2.7? I was trying yesterday and couldn't get the KA-50 Shkval to go anywhere except the upper-left corner of my main monitor. The ABRIS was in the correct position on my second monitor.

It worked OK for me with 12.10, in fact it may have been slightly faster but the difference between drivers wasn't really significant enough to say any one was better than the rest (testing with Cold Start in Mozdok, wait until helo is spooled up, looking left-ahead-right): DCS World: 13.9: 24-35-21 13.12: 25-36-22 12.10: 26-37-22 I tested with ArmA3 as well, although I didn't have the 32-bit 12.10 dll handy at the time so didn't test that. 12.8 - 30fps 13.10 - 29fps 13.9 - 29fps 13.12 - 27fps

That would rather depend on your hardware. If you've only got stereo headphones, then you're not going to get surround sound. If you're using some virtual surround software (CMSS-3D, Razer Surround) or a virtual/real surround headset or even an amp and 5.1 speakers, then you will.

Maybe it is but those Russian pilots clearly don't have time to "stabilize the chopper on all axii and the collective" before click-releasing the Trim repeatedly and often, so if we have to in the sim it seems there must be a bug in the simulation surely?

Not sure this makes sense. If the collective is "too high" than surely the AP would have to apply -9% to maintain the desired altitude, leaving 11% for it to increase the altitude? So if the collective is set 5% higher than is needed, meaning the AP has to exert -5% to maintain the desired altitude, does this mean it's left with +15% to increase altitude, or is it a -20%/+20% range?

Thanks. Yeah, looking at the photos here http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1519135&postcount=49 it does seem that the wider view is achieved by having a wider (zoomed out) FOV as I think I'd normally (with my desk and 24" monitor) be much more zoomed in so that I could read the HUD, whereas in the photos it looks like it's too zoomed out to be readable. So I'll just try a wider FOV on my 50" TV and see how that looks to me.

Thanks but your instructions don't quite seem to make sense to me, as after I load a profile and reset the monitors, there's no way for me to select any interface or point it anywhere and click Setup. As far as I can tell, the appropriate interface is already enabled (A-10C, KA-50) when I load a profile. Anyway, I'm having trouble getting my KA-50 Shkval to move to the 2nd monitor. I tried several variants on "Shkval" in my monitorsetup.lua as you can see: and the attached export.lua I downloaded, which is supposedly a combined A-10C, KA-50, FC3 one, in Saved Games/DCS/Scripts/. EMC obviously installs it's various files in the game install folder when I first run it as well, which I can only presume are correct. The Abris at least is moved to the correct position on the second monitor, although strangely it's booted up and ready from the start, whilst the in cockpit one still shows as off/blank! The Shvkal is stuck in the upper left corner of my main monitor though, whatever I try. Export.lua

Is there any way that SoftTH would allow me to recreate this layout on a single 50" screen? Obviously I won't be able to angle the sides in as I would with three separate monitors but I'm thinking it might still give me some extra situational awareness of the ground in front/below me if the cockpit/HUD only occupies the upper middle section of the screen, with the space below it blank (with a 2nd Helios monitor in front of it anyway) either side recreating the two side monitors in the above config.

It's an issue for non-FFB stick users for whom the Trim system doesn't work properly. The real stick can't be that hard to move without pressing Trim, if the proper Russian method of flying is "move the stick, click-release Trim, repeat" and not "hold Trim, move the stick, release"

Yes, there's been plenty of threads about it but no official response from ED. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=99981&highlight=trim http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=96398&highlight=trim http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=94833&highlight=trim&page=3 http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=80992&highlight=trim&page=13 The problem is most of us don't have FFB sticks, as there aren't many decent ones available but ED hasn't implemented a decent system of accomodating non-FFB users. I made a suggestion for an alternative trim method about a year ago, which would avoid non-FFB users having to do this annoying re-centre stick dance constantly when using trim, here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1661763&postcount=76 and more recently re-posted it here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1987204&postcount=302 "I still think it would work better if stick movements away from the centre were still registered after clicking Trim (which would emulate the real behaviour, where after the pilot clicks Trim he can still move the stick further and click Trim again (or not), without any timeout or having to re-center the stick) but stick movements towards the centre were ignored until the stick had re-centered, which would allow us to release the stick, as is necessary when using a non-FFB stick as we can't hold it in position all the time, without any unwanted input." I really don't understand all these explanations about the AP's 20% authority causing us to oversteer, so that when we click Trim the stick's too far from where it actually needs to be and the AP then releases it's 20% authority and the helo lurches and Trims to the wrong position. If this is the case, I would think it would affect FFB users and indeed real pilots, as regardless of whether the stick starts in the real centre or a FFB-held position, we move the stick to point the helo where we want and if the AP is trying to counteract this by 20% and this 20% is only released when clicking Trim, causing the helo to lurch and the AP to Trim to this attitude instead of the one we were holding the helo at when we click-release Trim, I can't see why this wouldn't happen to all pilots, real or virtual. The only difference I can imagine is that with FFB and real pilots, they feel the AP release it's authority and the stick lurching and counteract that themselves by pulling it back but it's hard to imagine them being able to do that before releasing Trim as it's meant to be a rapid click-release, not click, correct stick, release. As you said a few posts back, the sim should know about this potential to oversteer, if that is indeed accurate modelling and counteract it automatically for non-FFB users who have no way to do so themselves.

Thanks. It's a bit of a pain having to install grep for Windows but it does the job. I prefer to control what gets installed where, so used the portable installation, which requires the binaries and dependencies zips (just the files in bin/ from both), as well as adding the install folder to the Path, so using the install exe would have been easier of course. http://gnuwin32.sourceforge.net/packages/grep.htm

Just to clarify, as I don't think it's entirely clear from your post, the only files that are backed up to _backup.xxx are files that have been modified by the user, which the updater then detects as modified, moves to the backup folder and downloads the current unmodified files. So it doesn't backup unmodified files that the updater is updating. I believe it's recommended to disable all mods (using JSGME) before updating, so there shouldn't be any modified files for the updater to backup if doing that anyway. I think it might be helpful if there was a separate file (eg updated_log.txt) that just listed the files that have been updated, as the autoupdate_log.txt does get a bit cluttered with MKDIR/RMDIR lines and it can be a pain to identify the Install lines amongst them.

I've tried everything that's been suggested in the past. Maybe the bug only manifests with certain joysticks or something.

In all the years I've been flying the KA-50, I've never found a way to stop the damn thing trying to kill me by oversteering every time I click and release Trim, so I'll use whatever methods work, even if they're unorthodox (hold trim or engage FD), that allow me to fly the damn thing and not be constantly fighting it's death wish! It would be nice if the autopilot would learn how to cooperate with me, as I'm trying to keep myself and the bird alive whilst it's trying to do the opposite half the time. I don't imagine the real KA-50 acts like this but I'm not flying a real one, I'm flying this sim and it seems to have it's own issues which I have to workaround.

Not here in the UK they're not. £136 + £426 shipping :huh:

+1. Even if the mouse can't be used for aiming whilst using TIR (for camera view), we should have the option to assign an axis to aiming. Perhaps a modifier (i.e. Shift) could be used with the ,.;/ keys (and maybe the axis once it's possible to assign one) to make the aiming move faster as well. So we could assign those keys to a hat on our sticks and then assing the modifer to another button, so when holding that button and moving the hat, the aim view would move faster.

I'm thinking about whether it would be better to get the Warthog stick for about £160 and then try and find a separate throttle that's cheaper than the Warthog one (also about £160), as I don't mind spending that much on a super-accurate, solid feeling stick but I probably don't really need half the controls on the Warthog throttle (or the X-55 one) and so it doesn't seem as good value to me as the stick. The only problem is there doesn't seem to be much choice in standalone throttles anyway. The CH one is about £125, so doesn't save me much compared to the Warthog one. I could get a X52 Pro throttle and stick for £125 and sell the stick but I'm not sure if they even work separately. So I'll probably end up just getting the X-55 and having to put up with it's plasticky feel and other annoyances.

No, you said "If you are running 13.12 putting 13.9 dll's kills it" (I presume you meant putting the 13.9 dll in the bin/ folder) so if that's the case, just removing the dll from the bin/ folder will make DCS revert to using the installed 13.12 driver. Putting the 13.12 dll in the bin/ folder will have the same result but is unnecessary, that's all.

For anyone who hasn't already seen it, check this thread for people's experiences with just dropping the different dlls into the bin/ folder http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=119196&page=2

Sure, some people won't want it but I don't suppose anyone who wants things as real as possible would have been using a second monitor with Helios on it anyway. I guess that if I had all the actual physical controls to use, then just seeing the cockpit in the Rift would be OK as I could have one hand flipping switches on my left, the other on the right and still look ahead but without real controls it means I have to be looking all over the place to focus on the controls and get the mouse over them to switch them, which is far more awkward than a real cockpit would be, so I see Helios as removing some of that unrealistic complexity to let me concentrate on flying.