Ranma13

This is a CAD drawing of the Ka-50's collective that I found a while back somewhere on this forum: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxrqPThWQpGLd3hxX1RyWVM0dDA

PM sent! Edit: Andre responded promptly to let me know it'll be ready soon. That's great news, as I was expecting a much longer wait due to its pre-order status. Thanks again, Andre!

Any chance we can get a collective and/or cyclic modeled after the Ka-50? If not, what would be the closest equivalent? I'm interested in purchasing a set, but held off because I don't have the setup capable of under-mounting them. But the recent 'mount on top' mount that yogi showed piqued my interest.

I ordered the JetSeat Sim Edition about 3 weeks ago. Is there any update on when it might ship? Also, does anybody have a comparison of how the Sim Edition compares to the KW-908 AM? It looks like they're both the same (uses the same motors and positioning), just in different form factors.

You need to have Git installed. Easiest way is probably to download it from here: https://git-for-windows.github.io/ Yes, that's what I've done for my own panel. The main page has my most commonly-used controls, and the other pages use the upper left-most button as a return to main page button.

I also have the VKB T-Rudders and just got the MFG Crosswinds as well. My initial impression is that I can get much more accuracy with the T-Rudders over the Crosswinds because I can step down on one side, then use the other foot to balance out how much force I want. With the Crosswinds, I slide one foot forward, but the other foot can only really follow the motion and not really assist it. This may not matter so much for fixed wing aircraft where you're doing large-ish deflections, but with helicopters, the smallest inputs have a rather large effect.

Thanks for pointing that out! I do have one repo that I'm pulling from GitHub instead of NPM, because the GitHub version has features that the NPM version doesn't. I'll see if I can eliminate the dependency on Git, but chances are it's not possible.

Now would be a good time to mention that, at this time, the libraries are written by a dev, intended for other devs. I do have plans to create a UI for all this in the future, but I'm still working towards a v1.0 stable release for the libraries. There's still some missing features that I'd like to add first (like good text support and good documentation) before I can start work on the UI. The UI will also take some time to complete because I intend for it to be generic, with features added through plugins. There's already some interest in using the Stream Deck for other purposes besides DCS, such as a MIDI controller, so the UI will need to support these kinds of workflows. With that said, if you want to be on the bleeding edge of pre-pre-pre-alpha, you can give it a try now and it should work for the most part. The above post with the instructions is good, but you should be able to follow this set of simplified steps: 1. Install node.js from https://nodejs.org. Download the LTS (long-term support) version. 2. Install DCS BIOS if you haven't already. 3. Download dcs-stream-deck-ka50 from https://github.com/danieltian/dcs-stream-deck-ka50 by clicking on the green Clone or download button on the upper right, then Download ZIP. Unzip it somewhere. 4. Open up command prompt (or PowerShell, both will work) and cd over to the unzipped folder. Run "npm install". This will take a while to complete. 5. Run "npm start" and it should display stuff on the Stream Deck. If you're getting errors about needing windows-build-tools, please let me know what the error is. I purposely designed the library to minimize external dependencies, so even Python shouldn't be necessary. As a side note, I was curious whether it would work, so I gave this a try: It will instantly set every switch in the Ka-50 to the correct position, and will also start up the APU, wait for it to be ready, start both engines, and then plays "aircraft is ready" through the text-to-speech engine. Realistic? No way :). But it's fun to go from a ramp start to fully flyable in less than a minute :D, by pressing a single key (even auto-start requires 2 key presses!).

If you want to replicate the 21:9 feeling on a standard 16:9 monitor, just type in the resolution manually in the settings. There's a dropdown that lets you pick the resolution, but what might not be obvious is that you can type in whatever you want into the text box as well. For a 1920x1080 monitor, you'll want to use 1920x823.

You read my mind ;-) Instead of using images, I'm dynamically drawing the text. It doesn't look great though, and there are some centering issues (some of the text is shifted too far left). I'm still looking into how to make it look better, but for now it works pretty good. It sends keyboards commands rapidly to control the radio, which definitely feels a lot better than pressing the F keys.

Recently, Elgato released the Stream Deck, which is a device that looks like this: It consists of an array of 5x3 buttons (15 buttons total), where each button has a small LCD screen built into it that can display a 72x72 pixel image. The intended market is for streamers so that they can push a button to do various things with their stream, such as automatically post on Twitter or display an overlay video in OBS. The official software is great when it comes to supporting these features, but outside of streamers, the software is limited to only pressing keyboard keys. Through the magic of reverse-engineering the USB protocol, I was able to get the Stream Deck to display what I want it to: By grabbing data through DCS BIOS, I'm also able to toggle the button images to reflect the state of the aircraft. Here is the Ka-50 in flight-ready mode, with master caution flashing: There's also paging support: The images will update correctly whether you click the button in the aircraft, or press the key on the Stream Deck itself. The Ka-50 is particularly well-suited for this device, as the aircraft uses plenty of LED push buttons. In order to get this all working, I had to write two API libraries using NodeJS, one to convert the binary DCS BIOS export format into something easier to use (JavaScript objects), and another to interface with the Stream Deck through its USB HID protocol: https://github.com/danieltian/dcs-bios-api https://github.com/danieltian/stream-deck-api They are available in NPM as well: https://www.npmjs.com/package/dcs-bios-api https://www.npmjs.com/package/stream-deck-api Note that if you're interested in using these libraries, they are still under heavy development and will not be semver compatible until version 1.0.0. In other words, function names and signatures may change until I decide that they're stable. If you have a Stream Deck and want to try it out with the Ka-50, you can check out this repo: https://github.com/danieltian/dcs-stream-deck-ka50 You must have DCS BIOS installed first. Get it from https://github.com/dcs-bios/dcs-bios, then copy the Scripts folder to %USERPROFILE%\Saved Games\DCS\Scripts. If you already have an Export.lua file in that folder (most likely from Tacview), you will need to append this to the file instead: dofile(lfs.writedir()..[[scripts\DCS-BIOS\BIOS.lua]]) Then download dcs-stream-deck-ka50, go over to the folder and run npm install, then npm start. You will need to have NodeJS installed. Keep in mind that the Ka-50 repo is my own playground for the controls, so the layout and functionality of the keys will probably change a lot, but it can serve as a good example if you're interested in developing your own.

It's a prototype designed by Iris Dynamics, which currently has a force feedback yoke in production. Here's their page on their force feedback joysticks: https://vs4.irisdynamics.com/magnetic-force-feedback-joysticks/ There's a mailing list that you can sign up for: https://vs4.irisdynamics.com/magnetic-force-feedback-jostick-mailing-list/ I e-mailed them to ask for details, they said that they're working on a FFB joystick for a commercial client, but are considering selling to the general public. They're hoping to release it sometime this year. The price point is unknown, but if it's anything like the yoke, it's gonna be $1,000+.

Thanks, very helpful!

What does the middle position on the altitude source select switch do? The top position is barometric pressure and the bottom is radar altimeter, but there's an unlabeled middle position. Altitude hold still works when the switch is in the middle position, so does it function as auto source select (below 300m is radar, above 300m is baro)?

I fly a Ka-50 on the red side, and sometimes the ground objectives bug out. One time at the MIH objective, one of the AA units was missing, even though typing -ag MIH in chat showed that it should've been there. I wasn't getting shot at when I flew directly over the objective, and I even used Tacview, which showed where the unit was located, but there was just no AA unit there. Just now, I destroyed the active units at CHE (the drone base), but all the static units were invincible. Neither the drones, tents, or trucks could be destroyed. I tried Vikhr's, guns (both ammo types), and rockets, but they were simply invincible.

You have to set the radio selector dial to Ground Crew (the right-most position). The selector dial is just below the engine starter panel, on the lower forward left side of the cockpit.

Did you press the radio tune button and wait for the light to go out? Just changing the radio preset doesn't tune the radio, you need to press the tune button as well.

IAS is also useless under 50 km/h. You need to look at either the speed on the HUD, which is from your INU, or the ground speed on the Abris, which is from the Glonass satellites.

The base is 8 inches x just a little over 6.5 inches.

Hello all, I'm planning on picking up a non-FFB, non-centering joystick for use with the Ka-50. Since using the trimmer affects the autopilot, it's important to be able to use this feature. For FFB joysticks, the joystick position is taken as the absolute position of the cyclic (the position of the joystick matches the position of the cyclic in-game). However, for non-FFB joysticks, the position is taken as the relative position from the virtual cyclic. This means that, for example, if you're holding the joystick at 20X, 20Y and press the trimmer button and continue holding the same position, the game will set the trim to 20X, 20Y, then add in the joystick's position of 20X, 20Y, which leads to an in-game position of 40X, 40Y. This trimmer mode is intended to be used for joysticks that have a centering spring, where you would press the trim button and return the joystick back to center. But with a non-FFB, non-centering joystick, I'd like the joystick to be taken as the absolute position. Is there a way to get this behavior?

Hello everyone, I just got a NIB Sidewinder FFB2 from eBay. This is the first time that I'm using one, so I have some questions to check if everything is working as it should. 1. There appears to be some play where the joystick is loose before I hit the force feedback 'wall' for the centering force. Is this behavior normal? The play exists for both when the centering force is centered, and also when it's offset. cEXzQ4T0il0 2. The hat makes a clacking noise whenever I move it up. It appears that there's some play in it before it hits the top switch. Is this behavior normal? dgn-QAjIy2g

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to put this or not, but I'm selling my JoyLoc desk mounts and the Lilliput 8" monitors here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161253655853?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/161253659759?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Have a look and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

I don't see why it wouldn't work, but keep in mind that it's a 16" monitor with a 1366x768 resolution. In other words, really really large pixel pitch. And the reason why I think most people pick up the UM-80's is because the size is just about right for mounting the Thrustmaster MFCD's onto.

The newest batch of Volair Sim chairs has drill holes for the Warthog. They added that into the recent batch that just shipped.

I wouldn't hold your breath :). What I did was I removed the joystick from the base plate by unscrewing the 4 screws, then reattached it to the Volair's right plate using the same 4 screws. The Volair's plate is pre-drilled for the Warthog joystick, so this was a cinch, essentially swapping one base plate for the other. The throttle was a little more tricky. The throttle actually has 2 plates on its underside; one to cover the bottom, and another plate over that to presumably add more weight. The Volair's plate actually has 2 sets of drill holes that are compatible with the throttle; one is intended to be used with the edge of the throttle where the provided mounting holes are, and another set on the underside that's normally used to hold the second plate in. I removed the extra base plate and 'replaced' it with the Volair's plate by using this set of screw holes. What I'm trying to do now though is extend the Volair's base plate a bit so that I can mount a Saitek throttle quadrant on it to act as a ghetto fabulous collective. I'm looking to reuse the Warthog's extra base plate by attaching it back onto the throttle, but backwards so that it forms an extra platform for me to mount the throttle quadrant on. Like I said, hard to describe in words, so I'll post some pics to explain how it's set up :).