Ranma13

Some questions: 1. What's the mounting hole pattern like? Is it the same as the TM Warthog? 2. Do the axis dials have a center detent? 3. How many steps do the rotary encoders have? 4. You mentioned that the 3 switches above the axis dials are 3-way momentary switches, is it an (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch that behaves as 2 separate buttons? 5. Are the four other toggle switches 2-way switches? If so, are they latching or momentary, and do they behave as OFF-ON switches (only one button) or ON-ON switches (2 buttons)? 6. Are there any renders of the throttle with the mini-stick? 7. Does the wheel axis have a center detent? 8. Do the throttle levers have an idle detent? 9. You mentioned that there is a push-through afterburner detent that can be removed if desired. What is the process to remove the detent? Does it require disassembly of the throttle? Can it be done with the throttle mounted to a base? 10. Does the auxiliary axis have any detents? 11. For the red fire shroud button, is the shroud made out of plastic or metal? 12. For the push buttons on the joystick and the base, are they tactile buttons (very little travel, distinct click action), or are they dome membrane buttons (has some travel, but no distinct click)? 13. What kind of sensors do all the axes use? For example, are the throttle levers using hall sensors? Do the axis dials use potentiometers?

Someone posted their impression of the T-Rudder vs. the MFG here:

This post will show you how to center the reticle: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=107686 And it passes integrity check.

I have both a 34" ultrawide and a 24" 4K monitor. My advice is that for gaming, 4K is not worth it, and you're better served with technologies such as ultrawide, high refresh rate, etc. Although the difference in pixel density is very noticeable if you compare them side by side, you quickly forget about it in actual gameplay. As for target spotting, it's gonna be easier to spot them on lower resolutions than higher because of how DCS treats far-away targets as single black pixels. Also be aware that HDR10 monitors require game support, and the current list of supported games is pretty short (at the bottom of the article): http://www.pcgamer.com/what-hdr-means-for-pc-gaming/

Don't do it. :disgust:

You just revived a thread from 7 years ago...

If you tell Roman that you want a damper, he will include and install one for you. He charged me 3550 RUB for it, which comes out to 62 USD with the current exchange rate. You can get one online for cheaper (around $30-40), but I figured that $62 for a damper that's matched to the pedals and already installed is worth the extra cost.

I ordered the Baur BRD-F2 because it's the only one that has toe brakes, a damper, and allows for hard mounting. The plate that came with my WSP has 2 mounting holes for the MFG Crosswind and a center hole to hold it to the stand itself. I've attached a PDF of the F2 mounting hole pattern. Корпус F2.PDF

I had the same question a few days ago, and ended up ordering both. I saw the same feedback that the Slaw Device has better toe brakes (because they use a cam), but the Baur feels smoother around the center. I also have a Wheel Stand Pro. The Baur will be arriving in a few days, and the Slaw Device order will be ready sometime in November. You will have to drill holes to mount either. The compatibility will mostly depend on if the center of the pedals is raised so that you can secure the pedal plate to the stand using the center hole. I think the Baur is raised, but no idea about the Slaw. If the pedals interferes with the center hole though, you can still rest the plate on the stand using the rubber rings that were included, and push it back so that it hits the rear bar. It's quite resistant to slipping this way, and not all that necessary to mount down, especially with a set of heavy pedals on top.

It's been like this since 1.5.6 and most likely earlier versions as well. It has to do with the smoke trail the Vikhr leaves behind. Lowering the graphics settings helps, but does not completely alleviate the issue.

DCS BIOS uses UDP multicast by default, which can be accessed on your LAN assuming your router (or switch) supports multicasting and has it enabled. Assuming nothing is blocking port 5010, you should be able to just access it on another PC on the same network. Never tried it myself though.

Here you go: https://imgur.com/a/xd5p1

That FFB2 adapter is awesome! Do you need to tap the M3 holes, or can the grub screws self-tap it? Also, what length of grub screws would be good to get so that the screw doesn't protrude out? Any possibility of supporting the CH Fighterstick as well? It's basically the same thing as the TM Warthog stick, but made out of plastic so it's lighter, and doesn't require as much strength to push the buttons down.

PWM control is built into the Arduino, though only for certain pins. It depends on which Arduino you're using, but for the Uno, the PWM pins are 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11: https://i.stack.imgur.com/dVkQU.jpg Since you have 8 LEDs, this isn't enough to PWM control all of them. You might want to look into one of the other Arduino models that have more PWM pins. To make use of the PWM pins to control LED brightness, you'll need to use analogWrite: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/AnalogWrite The DCS BIOS Arduino library uses digitalWrite: https://github.com/dcs-bios/dcs-bios-arduino-library/blob/master/src/internal/Leds.h You should be able to just copy-paste that code and change digitalWrite to analogWrite: #include "Arduino.h" #include "ExportStreamListener.h" namespace DcsBios { class PwmLED : public Int16Buffer { private: unsigned int mask; unsigned char pin; unsigned int dutyCycle; public: PwmLED(unsigned int address, unsigned int mask, char pin, unsigned int dutyCycle) : Int16Buffer(address), mask(mask), pin(pin), dutyCycle(dutyCycle) { pinMode(pin, OUTPUT); } virtual void loop() { if (hasUpdatedData()) { if (getData() & mask) { analogWrite(pin, dutyCycle); } else { analogWrite(pin, 0); } } } }; } Note that I didn't test this code myself. If it seems too complicated you can fall back to trying different resistor values, but if you're going to build a cockpit, it's very helpful to learn some basic Arduino coding because it opens up a lot of possibilities. For example, imagine turning a brightness dial in the cockpit and have it change the brightness of your switch LEDs.

This is going to depend on the spec sheet for that LED. Most will list an optimal forward voltage, which is the voltage where you get the best brightness for power consumption ratio. I recommend using resistors that give you the optimal forward voltage; you can always lower the brightness using PWM, but you can't brighten them up without replacing the resistor.

Relays are for high-power-draw devices such as motors. They are complete overkill for LEDs and have major disadvantages (slow switching speed, makes a clack noise as it switches, requires high input voltage to flip the relay, etc). Basically, it's the complete wrong choice for controlling LEDs. The 40 mA max power draw on the Arduino is per pin. A typical LED with the correct resistor should only draw 20-30 mA. This means that you shouldn't run into any issues powering 8 LED switches directly through the Arduino, because each LED needs to be on its own pin. Even if you're powering the Arduino through USB and all 8 LEDs are on, that's only a 240mA power draw, with the Arduino itself using 50-80mA. You're safe up to around 400-500mA, with 500mA being the USB limit. If you're using the AC adapter, then the Arduino can source up to 900mA. So you're well within the margins with just 8 LEDs. Just don't pull more than 40mA per pin (in other words, make sure you use a resistor, and don't put more than 1 LED per pin). With only 8 LEDs, you don't need a MOSFET or a ULN2803. Those are used to source a lot more current (think 1000 LEDs), and are complete overkill for what you're trying to do.

In the real helicopter, if you hold down the trim button, the force is removed. The difference with using simFFB is that it's using 3 different forces: spring, damper, and friction. When you hold down the trim button, the spring force is removed, but the damper and friction forces still remain. DCS only uses the spring force, so holding down the trim button will remove all force on the stick.

Use the Arduino app and view the serial output: http://www.toptechboy.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/arduino-serial-port-example.jpg Tell us what it's outputting when you press buttons.

Yep, that's correct. If you have a FFB stick, you'll notice right away why holding the trimmer is not a good idea: the entire joystick goes limp.

As far as I'm aware, you can only do exports like this for full clickable cockpit modules, not for the FC3 aircraft. As you've noticed, the main issue is that there's no HUD lua script for the FC3 aircraft.

What are the device names in USB Game Controllers in the Control Panel? DCS doesn't remember bindings by position, it remembers it by the device ID. Having the game controllers in a different order between boots shouldn't matter, they may be listed differently in the controls settings, but the binding should still be the same. You can check your binding file by going into C:\Users\<USERNAME>\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input, finding the module that you're interested in, and checking to see if your device shows up as a diff.lua file.

There is only one part where the PVI-800 and ABRIS are linked. If you create a NAV TGT on the PVI, it will be displayed on the ABRIS as a square with a number inside it. Not sure why this is the only link between the two, and it's one-way only: no matter what you do on the ABRIS , it won't affect the PVI-800 at all. In practice, I hardly ever use the PVI-800, and use the ABRIS for everything. It's easy enough to trim the aircraft so that it's flying in a straight path towards a target point, so I just follow the yellow line on the ABRIS.

Yes, I get it, you can add a damper to anything if you're willing and able to mod it in yourself. There's a big difference though between "supports a damper" and "you can add a damper if you can fabricate some metal brackets, drill some holes, and reinforce the pedal structure". I'm not interested in the latter.

For Slaw, you e-mail them at slawdevice@gmail.com. They have two models, the Bf-109 and the RX Viper. The RX Viper comes in 3 different colors for the pedals; red, silver, and black. Dunno about the color options for the Bf-109. For Baur, he has a forum account on a number of sites, including this one. However, he's based primarily off of the Russian IL2 Sturmovik forum, where he has his own sub-board: http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewforum.php?f=34 You need to create a forum account, wait for the moderators to approve it, then send him a PM. He has 6 (or possibly more) models available, the F-1, F-2, F-3, MS-1, MS-2, and MS-3. I'm still trying to figure out the differences between each one, but the MS series is supposed to be the cheaper one, has Kamov-style pedals and doesn't support adding a damper, whereas the F series is more expensive, has either Su-35 or Bf-109 pedals, and supports adding a damper except for the F-3.

Yes, the Leo Bodnar stacked rotary encoder works just like any other rotary encoder, there just happens to be 2 of them. The encoder comes with a breakout board to make it easier to use breadboard-friendly PC pins with it, but you will have to solder everything yourself. If you've never attempted something like this before, I recommend you pick up an Arduino or Teensy and a cheap rotary encoder from Adafruit or Sparkfun. It should cost you $30 or so. You can see how difficult it is, and if acceptable, you can then commit to the Leo Bodnar one.