Ranma13

Ohhh those 2 fastener bars are included with the Super Warthog. So that's what they're for. I totally forgot that you don't have to use the pedal plate if you don't want to.

I got mine with the soft spring. It significantly reduces the return-to-center force. When used with CAM4 and CAM5, the centering force isn't strong enough to return it to exact center unless you really dial in the tension with the front adjustment knob. With CAM6, since it has a hard center point, it's easier to return to the exact center, though sometimes I still find myself shifting the pedals left and right just to make sure. The soft spring is better than the normal spring for helicopter flight because you can be more accurate with small deflections, but personally I still prefer the VKB T-Rudder IV for helicopter flight.

You can put the pedals on the plate and secure them with Velcro or something, but they're not mountable out of the box. Take a look at the 3rd image here: http://www.wheelstandpro.us/super-warthog-wheel-stand-for-your-thrustmaster-hotas-warthog-and-saitek-pedals-pedals-mouse-keyboard-throttles-not-included/ The pedal plate is the one on the upper left. The center hole is used to secure the plate to the stand itself, and the 2 other holes are for the Crosswind. It looks like the Saitek Combat Pedals has 4 mounting holes in front where the footrest is.

Unfortunately no, unless the Crosswind uses the same mounting pattern as Saitek. You can always drill the holes yourself though, it's not very difficult. Keep in mind though that the bolt that holds the plate to the stand requires a nut, so it's not flush with the plate. Either the head of the bolt or the nut will stick out. This is fine for the VKB T-Rudder and the Crosswind, where the center is raised and not flush with the pedal plate, but this could be a problem with the Saitek combat pedals (not sure, it's been a while since I last owned them).

Virpil is also working on a throttle, but they've said that they're hoping to release info on it by the end of the month, 2 months in a row now :).

I have the Warthog Deluxe, the 3-pole version. I've been meaning to write a review for it one of these days, but never got around to it. I do have some observations: 1. The regular Wheel Stand Pro's with only 1 pole are advertised as portable. Though it's a bit heavy, I can believe that one can reasonably move it on a daily basis. But with 3 poles, it gets much heavier and unwieldy. If you're looking to unpack it and pack it daily, you're probably not gonna have a good time with it. I'd view the 3-pole version as transportable only. All the poles can be removed completely though, making it easy to disassemble. 2. Speaking of foldability, I originally intended to use it under my desk and have it folded when I'm in work mode, and unfold it for game mode. Turns out that if you have any standard office chair with 5 spokes and wheels, this probably won't work out too well. Once the 2 side arms are folded out past 100 degrees or so, the entire stand starts to get front-heavy and wants to tilt forward. This was a problem because in order to reach my keyboard comfortably, I had to push the wheel stand back, which meant the arms had to unfold too far forward. In the end, I decided to not have it under my desk, and put it off to the side instead. 3. The arm poles can raise up quite a bit, but don't lower as much as I'd like them to. It would've been nice to give up some vertical height to be able to lower them more so that joystick extensions can be used. At its lowest height, I'd say that you can go no more than 10cm for an extension. You can probably take a hacksaw and cut the pole to lower them more, though I haven't tried this myself. 4. The keyboard holder can easily be used for a 2nd monitor, which is exactly what I'm doing. I got a 13-inch monitor that I'm using to export the MFCD displays, and it works great. It's a shame that the company didn't consider this as a use case and provide horizontal rails that you can use as a VESA mount. 5. It comes with the Logitech G shifter plate! This came as a surprise to me because it's not mentioned anywhere. It gives you a bit more surface area to put something on. I'm using it to hold my button box. 6. The pedal plate only comes pre-drilled for the MFG crosswinds (2 diagonal holes), as well as a center hole to hold the plate to the stand. This is kind of a disappointment because the plate is quite big, and could have easily been drilled with more holes for racing pedals and other sim pedals. Nothing's stopping you from taking a drill to it yourself, but this would have been nice to have straight from the factory. 7. Speaking of the pedal plate, the way you mount it to the wheel stand is by tightening down a bolt that will sandwich the plate to the horizontal rods that the pedal plate sits on. The other side of the sandwich is just a metal strip. It works, but the metal strip has to bend quite a bit for a tight fit, and only time will tell if the metal will get fatigued. I can't help but feel that O clamps would've been a much better solution here, though I understand that it's a cost-cutting measure (none of the other wheel stands have a pedal plate, only the metal strip). 8. Cable management is kind of a pain. There are no channels for cables to run through, so you have to provide your own cable fasteners. I use Velcro strips, but it looks a little sloppy. This applies for most other wheel stands though, so it's not really a knock. 9. I wish the edges of the throttle, joystick, and keyboard plates were more rounded or tapered. I've hit my leg and knee on them multiple times while getting in and out of my seat, enough that I'm considering buying some foam padding. 10. The plate on the center arm has support for Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels, and you can have the keyboard arms and shifter plate attached with a wheel mounted. The wheel will naturally block the keyboard. There is no direct mounting support for Fanatec wheels, though if you have a table mount that's V-shaped, it should work (like the one on the Thrustmaster TMX Pro, which is the wheel I have). 11. The left arm can be lowered and the plate extended out far enough to serve as a good mounting point for a helicopter collective. I don't have a collective to test this with though.

The VKB MCG Pro has 2 analog sticks on the joystick, which is very helpful as a slew cursor in multiple aircraft. If you don't want to use them as analog sticks, you can assign one or both as digital hats through the firmware, although they won't have the same clicking feel as a true hat. The MCG Pro also has more buttons than the Virpil. Their gimbal design also allows you to add friction to the joystick to overcome the centering force, giving you the ability to use it as a helicopter cyclic in a pinch. As for the Virpil, it's available in an all-black color, which I find much more attractive than the gray button version, and there's a table mount available.

If you fly heli's, you will most likely not regret it. Not having to deal with the different trimmer modes and being able to control the collective as it was intended is well worth it over non-FFB joysticks. For fixed wing, it's a little more complicated. You will definitely miss having extra hats and buttons. Although you can use modifier keys to give yourself more virtual hats and buttons, you'd need to use multiple modifiers to reproduce the functionality of a 4-hat flight stick like the A10C. For most fixed wing aircraft, FFB is one of those "you know you need it or you don't care" kind of thing. Personally, if I only flew fixed wing, I would prefer extra hats over FFB. But since I primarily fly the Ka-50, FFB is completely indispensable, and I couldn't fly without it.

Delete the node_modules folder, then run npm install again. Perhaps it didn't download the dependencies correctly.

It's great to have options, isn't it? :) Here is the controls browser that I wrote: https://danieltian.github.io/dcs-bios-api/ If it doesn't show up there, then it can't be used. I'm not sure what the WP~NAV/TGT switch is.

Did you run npm install? It looks like it either didn't build, or didn't build properly. Can you provide the output from running npm install?

This is my experience as well. I bought the HTC Vive in part to try it out with DCS World, but after realizing that I spend the majority of my time looking at the Shkval and the HUD (the Ka-50's visibility is limited anyway), I've decided that I much more prefer an ultrawide monitor with a second monitor for the Shkval and ABRIS. Also it doesn't give me motion sickness :). Although the sense of presence in VR can't be beat, after a while it does feel pretty gimmicky.

There's an easy way to check if you've burned out your laser or not, but you have to install this mod: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/607269/ It will show the laser temperature on the lower right of the HUD. Normally, it's around 288, and increases to 297-ish when you're laser rangefinding. If you find that the number no longer increases when you're rangefinding, it means you've burned out your laser.

This thread provides some dimensions: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1440116 They may not be 100% accurate, but should give you somewhere to start with. Barring that, you can try and set custom snap views so that they will give you a head-on view of the cockpit's panels (you won't be able to shift your view in-game to get a 90-degree view, you'll have to edit the snap view file). This way you can take the size of a switch, then base your dimensions off of that.

Oh I see. Yeah, that would be significantly easier and mostly a hardware issue (though some software is still needed, but nowhere as complex as a full FFB implementation). I would love to see something like that, as I only fly heli's.

Unfortunately, it's not that simple, even without the patent issue. Servos won't work because they're too weak, too noisy, and too notchy to serve as FFB motors. For this, you will either need large direct drive DC motors, or smaller motors that uses gearing to step up the force. In order to use DC motors, you'll also need to up the wattage and have circuitry to provide enough power. The hardware is the simple part though. Force feedback is implemented as messages sent to the joystick, with parameters such as ramp time, attack time, and fade time. It's up to the joystick's firmware though to implement these effects. For example, a message is sent to the joystick to do a sawtooth effect with a magnitude of 50%. It's then up to the joystick to implement this effect, which includes tasks such as controlling the voltage to the motors so that the effect is smooth and not jumpy, measuring the position of the joystick to make sure that it's reached the correct position, and taking into account the limits of the joystick travel so as to not burn out or break the motors. Add to that the dozen or so effects that need to be implemented, and it's quite a challenge just on the software side.

Is it possible for you to make a video showing the behavior you're seeing with the trim, and with the input viewer displayed (press Right Ctrl + Enter)?

The AP channels enable two functions: a dampening system which dampens the pilot's controls to minimize pilot-induced oscillations, and a stabilization system that attempts to hold the helicopter at the last trimmed position. Flight Director disables the stabilization system, but leaves the dampening system on. From page 10-24 of the manual (page 360 if you're viewing the PDF version): http://server.3rd-wing.net/public/Manuels%20DCS/DCS%20BS2%20Flight%20Manual%20EN.pdf The trim button will do the same thing while it's held down, but will additionally disable force trim as well. From page 6-6 in the manual (PDF page 80): and page 13-30 (PDF page 480): Without force feedback, force trim doesn't do anything, so the trim button and Flight Director end up doing the same thing: disabling the bank/pitch/heading hold, but leaving the dampening system on. As long as the AP channels are on, the dampening system will always be on (barring a system failure). If you turn on Flight Director and turn off the AP channels, the helicopter's behavior will change because you've disabled the dampening system.

The Pimax 4K is already out: http://www.pimaxvr.com/4k/ Downsides are 60hz instead of 90hz, no positional tracking (only pitch/yaw/roll and drifts after a while), and not a low-latency display so more significant ghosting, but it's 2K per eye. There's a 8K version in development, but no word on when that might release. The thing that's holding high-res VR back right now is graphics cards. Even the fastest cards nowadays can barely maintain 90hz with any sort of graphics-heavy content. Upping the resolution doesn't make sense if the cards can't keep up. I think that the next version we're going to see from the big VR companies is a wireless headset with better ergonomics. Significantly higher resolution headsets is still several years out, I'm afraid.

1. Go to the options, click on Special tab. Select Ka-50 from the list on the left. 2. Click on the dropdown for Trimmer Mode. 3. Select "Center Position Trimmer Mode".

The DCS BIOS Arduino library is just a thin wrapper that sets up the pins and reads/writes the correct serial message. Theoretically, you should be able to just do: // Master Caution LED for MiG-21 DcsBios::LED migMasterCaution(0x22a0, 0x0400, 13); // Master Caution LED for A-10C //DcsBios::LED a10CMasterCaution(0x1012, 0x0800, 13); And it should work. The name doesn't matter, it can be anything you want.

That's what the "Central Positioning Trimmer Mode" is.

Will helicopters be fixed too with it?

For anyone that's interested, this is a breakdown of the different trim modes when used with non-FFB joysticks: Default - When the trim button is pressed, the center position of the joystick is set to the joystick's current position, and joystick input is disabled for a short moment before it's re-enabled. The intended use is for you to press the trim button, then immediately release the joystick, and the heli will fly as if you are holding it in the position that you pressed the trim button at. Any joystick input afterwards will be treated as inputs in addition to the trimmed position. For example, if you're holding the joystick at a +5 position, then press the trim button and keep the same joystick position, you will now be flying the helicopter at +10. Your joystick movements are relative to the position that it was last trimmed at. Central Position Trimmer Mode - The same as Default, but rather than disabling joystick input for a short moment before re-enabling it, you now have to center the joystick before input is re-enabled. This is useful if you don't want to press the trim button and inadvertently lurch the heli to one side because you didn't center it fast enough, but a lot of people don't like this mode because it feels less responsive than Default. Joystick Without Spring and FFB - The joystick position is the absolute position of the cyclic, period. True to its name, this is intended for non-FFB joysticks that have the centering spring removed. Pressing the trim button only programs the auto-pilot, but doesn't affect joystick input behavior. All of these modes are intended to be workarounds for non-FFB joysticks. If you have a FFB joystick with Force Feedback enabled in the options, the selected trim mode is ignored. In the real helicopter, the trim button will reset the centering force to the cyclic's current position, and holding it down will disable the trim force altogether until released. This is why in the real helicopter, pilots (and people with FFB joysticks) do not hold it down but rather press the trim repeatedly. If you hold it down, you can no longer feel the amount of force you're using, making it very easy to oversteer. This doesn't matter for non-FFB joysticks, as the centering force always exists. Also, the trim reset option exists when there's no such thing in the real heli. It's an easy to way to instant re-center the cyclic's position so that you can start your inputs from 0 instead of an offset. This is why you see people giving different advice about how to use the trimmer and Flight Director mode in the Ka-50. For non-FFB joystick users, it's easier to hold down the trim button, move to the position you want to be in, and release. There's not much point in using the Flight Director because the trim button does the same thing. For FFB joystick users though, holding down the trim button removes all force, so it's preferable to press the button instead of holding it down. Flight Director is often used because it allows flying of the heli without having to tap the trim button repeatedly and having the force on the joystick change with every press.

The heel area looks a bit odd, almost like something is supposed to protrude up from it instead of being flat. My guess is that this is a configurable pedal set, and you can choose between heli-style pedals in the back, or fixed wing style pedals in the front.