DeJohn

kidogofoto; I looked at your profile and its just a slight error, easy to fix. The issue is when TM made the Throttle A10C didn't have an indicator for AP on/off state, so they used a momentary pushbutton to turn it on and off. This is the reason in your profile the indicator lights while you are pressing the button. To get the annunciator to work as you want it to do the following.... -- Open your profile in Helios Editor; -- Click FILE on the menu bar and choose 'Add Interface'; -- Choose Throttle - HOTAS Warthog; -- Click on your AP annunciator to highlight it; In the bindings window make sure the Input tap is selected; -- Open the Throttle - HOTAS Warthog interface and scroll down to button #26; -- Left click on Button 26 and drag it over to the 'Toggle Indicator' position -- Save profile, and you're all set Hope this helps

kidogofoto; In 'Helios', an annunciator can done several ways, as text label which has two text colors. One for On(lit) and one for Off(un-lit), or two images can be used to do this. You say you tried (toggle or Set), but you don't say what you are toggling or setting or where in the profile you are doing this. Could you attach your profile to your post and I'll have a look at it to see if I can tell why it isn't working.

PJG; Based on the message I would suspect that you either haven't set up a Push To Talk (PTT) key or button or if you did it may not have gotten saved.

There is... put the copilot on hold and lower your sight, you'll have control of the guns and rockets

Rshift+M brings the sight up and down Rctrl+M turns on the sight The fastest way to find the key bindings, is to open the assignment menu click on menu bar where you see the word all, and click Search and enter what you're looking for.

Backdraft Make sure in the fine tuning settings that your collective is set as 'Slider' or the moment you move the collective it will start in the middle because DCS things its like the x, y and z axis.

Puma12; Hi, don't know if you're using 'Helios' as your panel or not, but if you are be advised that you can add your joystick, throttle, etc. as an interface to your helios profile and program your buttons/switches there.

mickt014; The export.lua file you downloaded from Capt Zeen website goes in the Scripts folder in your saved games folder. Looks something like this... \Saved Games\DCS\Scripts\export.lua If you don't have a Scripts folder there, create one and place the export file in it.

I believe what your looking for is a Rotary Encoder, not a rotary switch

FireCat; This has been an arduous subject ever since DCS and esspecially the Uh-1H module came out. 'To curve or Not to curve', that is the question. The true answer is...It is a personal choice item, there is no right or wrong about it. It depends on your equipment, your flying style and most importantly your physical abilities. I own several devices (Warthog set, Logeitech joystick, Saitek throttle quadrants), and I do use curves for some aircraft, but not for others. For the huey collective I do alter the default curve because there is an area where I need more precise control than the default DCS values give me. No one can tell you what or what not to do, we can only give suggetions as to a starting point for you to find what works for you. After I read your post I went and re-did some curve tests I've done many times before. Mainly to see if my previous findings had changed with the new 2.5 beta. Good new is with the exception of a few values slightly different(not enough to change over all results), ED and DCS are very consistant. My hat is off to them for their tireless work. So I offer to you this mornings results as a starting point finding your sweet spot. A note here! Any time you open the axis tune window no matter whether your control set default or as slider, the window will always open with it in the default center (or 50%) position. To see actual position you have on your throttle/collective you need to barely touch the throttle for your readings to show. If you click the user curve box, at the bottom of the window you'll see 11 sliders appear ranging from 0 to 100. This is the default scale I used for my tests, also remember that 100 is collective fully down and 0 is fully up. Test Parameters: Airport - Batumi (with the editor's default conditions) Aircraft - Uh1-H.... (1) Empty (as light as I could get it.) (2) Max load (as heavy as I could get it staying within max weight limit). Axis device - Throttle on Logitech Extreme 3D joystick, it was on my desk. (its has a potentiometer not a Hall sensor) Remember lower value = more input (1)Empty (2)MAX WGT 1st test - to see at what point the needle on the Torque gauge started to move, and correspond this to the scale. (1) 91 (2) 90 2nd test - to see at what point the huey became light on its skids. (1) 40 (2) 35 3rd test - to see when the huey hovered at 5ft (standard height for hover check) (1) 35 (2) 25 4th test - to see when needle red lined. (1) 12 (2) 12 So what did I find out about the default scale for the device I used... 1- from 100-90 had no effect in game, and below 10 would make no difference since I'd be red lining torque and Ext temp, engine failure in a few minutes anyway. 2- my sweet spot for control occurs between 40 (light on skids empty) and 25 (5ft hover at max weight). If I choose to place my sweet spot in the center of the scale, my scale looks like this... 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 50 65 75 90 I did enter these numbers into the scale as shown, no dead zone, no changes to saturation, and ran a flight with a standard loadout (pilot, copilot, door gunners and 60% fuel). The result was I had no trouble getting into and maintaining a hover, take off or landing as I had fine control over the inputs where I needed them, even with a cheap analog potentiometer. Hope this info help you find your sweet spot.

chrisinthailand; Usually when you get a 'not supported' error, its an in compatable format issue. Are you using WinRAR to decompress the file, or some other?

After the file download the only message I got was that the update was successful. However, according to the post, this update was only supposed to change 1.5.8 OpenBeta to 2.5 OpenBeta. And when the release version comes out it will use 1.5.8 and 2.2 OpenAlpha to create 2.5 realaese, and give you the option to keep 1.5.8 as Final, and uninstall 2.2Openalpha

The OpenBeta isn't supposed to uninstall 2.2. That will happen when the 2.5 Release comes out

That is exactly what the mod manager software is doing. This is what (JSGME or OvGME) is doing when you use it... Enable mod- the software looks at the file/s in the mod, goes to the location specified by the mod. It then moves the original corresponding file/s to a backup folder, and pastes the moded file/s in their place. Disable mod- the software looks at the file/s in the mod, goes to the location specified by the mod. Then swaps the moded file/s for the one/s in the backup folder (thus restoring the game to original state before it was moded). Note** Always disable all mods before allowing DCS to update the game. Failure to do so may result in your mod's being corrupted.

Hi All you need to do is open the picture in a paint program of your choosing and paint over the text and replace it with your text. You could use windows paint program, but a program that can make layers like gimp(free) or photoshop(pay) are the best.

Hi According to the description on the website, the 'adapter kit' is the two ends, the stem extension is extra.

Chewy; As Sokol1 mentioned, using one of Leo Bodnar's interface boards is the easiest way to go. As far as switches, I get mine from ebay, inexpensive. The only concern in wiring switches for a simple button box is if you use 'Pot's', which require a power lead. Toggle, pushbutton, rocker and rotary encoders switches only require a pos/neg connection so you really can't harm the interface card. To tell wires apart I use white for +, black for -, red and blue for the two positive(+) directions on an encoder switch. Just as a side note... Understand that in most cases once you start down this road of building switch boxes, its a never ending process. You always think of new things or ways to do or add things. I started many many moons ago with a simple 10 switch box, which led to building a Cessna simpit, which led to a DC-9 simpit and currently building a Uh-1 simpit. So enjoy and have fun.

Hi neetz; Do not alter files in the game directory directly, if you know what I mean. You'll want to make copies of the file you want to edit, and then add them to the game as a mod. The reason for this is when DCS does an update, it varifies the game files first, checking to see that the modify date is the same as the one in the data base. If the date is different (as it would be if you edit it) the update will remove your edited file and replace it with thiers, deleting all the work you did. Here's how to edit and add your changes... First you'll need a few programs... Notepad ++ (never use windows notepad, it can't retain the format data), you'll also need a mod installer program like OVGME or JSGME. I currently use OVGME since JSGME (while still working) hasn't been updated in years. You can get it here https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=171956 Next we need to setup our work area, this only takes a short time to do but will same you alot of time down the road. On your desktop make a folder named DCS Inputs. Inside that you'll make two folders, Original and MyInputs. Now goto the game folder with the aircraft you intend to edit. In this case DCS W / Mods / aircraft / M-2000c / input /. Copy the M-2000c folder (which should have the folders joystick & keyboard inside, and paste a copy in the Original folder and MyInputs folder you made. The reason for this step... **some might say the original folder isn't necessary but here is why I do it this way.... Lets say the file we're editing is the default.lua file and its modification date is 7-10-17. At some point you'll start DCS and the update window will pop up. Don't click anything on that window, insted you'd open OVGME and un-install all mods you added to the game. Once done, then you'll let DCS update. When the update is done and DCS starts you'll shut it down. Now we open the Original/M-2000c/joystick folder and look at the date modified of the default.lua, (7/10/17). Then open the folder in in game directory and verify the file date to see if there were any changes to it. If the dates are the same then you're done with this step, and can re-install your mods. But, lets say the file has an updated date of 11/26/17, that tells us DCS made a change in the file and we need to compare them to see what changes if any need to be made to our edited file. The comparison can be done with Notepad ++, it will show us what alterations we need to make to our moded file.** Moving on... Open the MyInputs/M-2000c/joystick folder, copy and paste a copy of the file you're going to edit. (I usually use the Joystick - HOTAS Warthog.lua, since these joystick files are used for actual joystick buttons, rather then the default.lua which is more akin to keyboard inputs), but use either one you want. Next rename the copied file to CleanInput.lua, open it with notepad++, go down the lines of code and where ever you find the Combos entry say... {combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN5"}, }, down = 3486, up = 3486, cockpit_device_id = 11, value_down = 0, name = _('Radar OFF'), category = _('Sensors')}, remove the combos command so that they read as... {down = 3486, up = 3486, cockpit_device_id = 11, value_down = 0, name = _('Radar OFF'), category = _('Sensors')}, Once you have removed all the combos commands, save the file. (this makes a fresh copy to start with if you add more interface cards in the future). Ok now that setup in done, time to edit. Make a copy of your CleanInput.lua and name it Button Box Interface (if you've changed the name of the card use that). NOTE.. if you have a diff file of your card in your saved games input folder delete it as the diff files will override anything in your edited file. Open your 'Button Box Interface.lua file, move down to the line you want to edit and do so. (remember once you edit a line and are happy with your change, click the save icon at the top of notepad++, just incase something happens, you won't have to start your editing all over). Okay, you've done the editing you want to do for now and saved the file, so its time to make it a mod so you can install/uninstall to the game. This is done by making a folder tree for the mod. You can make this tree manually by creating each subfolder one at a time or do it the easy way, which is, with your edited file open in notepad++, click file, save as.. Now you can navigate to your ovgme mods folder. (my case its E:\OVGME\DCS Mods) your's will most likely be different. Then on the file name line enter... MyDCSInputs\Mods\aircraft\M-2000c\input\M-2000c\joystick\Button Box Interface.lua and click save. Now all you have to do is open OVGME and click the mod to install to the game. Now Remember!! before making any changes to your mod files uninstall them from the game or any changes you make will not be permenant and you'll have to do it again. DJ

Slipstream21 If you're looking for videos on the Huey, a youtuber named Bunyap Sims did a good series. Following link is to the uh-1

Open your rejoin command, highlight the 'press f5 key' command and click the up button until it is above the 'press f6 key' command

neetz looks like you're coming along quite well. Funny you should mention your rotary switch. There is little trick when it comes to rotary switches that saves on the number of buttons, and gives you an extra spot on the interface card to use for two other switches. As an example I'll use your 4 switch rotary, you actually only need to use 2 positions, and still get 4 positions in game, you'll wire up positions 2, 3 (no need to wire position 1 & 4). Most switches have an on(down) value of 1 or -1 and an off(up) value of 0. In the case of rotary switches the values are different... Position 1 = 0, pos' 2 = 0.1, pos' 3 = 0.2 and pos' 4 = 0.3. What you do is let pos' 2 & 3 handle pos' 1 & 4 input, this saves two switches for each rotary use. This is accomplished because the coding of rotaries doesn't call for the off(or UP) state of a switch. So we add an up(or 0ff) value for switches 2 and give it the value of switch #1, switch 3 we give #4's value as an up(off). As an example I'll use the code for the Uh-1 VHF FM Radio Mode which has a 4 position rotary. {down = 3007, cockpit_device_id = 23, value_down = 0, name = _("VHF FM Radio Mode OFF"), category = _("VHF FM Radio Control panel"), }, {combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN1"}, }, down = 3007, cockpit_device_id = 23, up = 3007, cockpit_device_id = 23, value_down = 0.1, value_up = 0, name = _("VHF FM Radio Mode TR"), category = _("VHF FM Radio Control panel"), }, {combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN2"}, }, down = 3007, cockpit_device_id = 23, up = 3007, cockpit_device_id = 23, value_down = 0.2, value_up = 0.3, name = _("VHF FM Radio Mode RETRAN"), category = _("VHF FM Radio Control panel"), }, { down = 3007, cockpit_device_id = 23, value_down = 0.3, name = _("VHF FM Radio Mode HOME"), category = _("VHF FM Radio Control panel"), }, The text above in RED is the info we add to the code lines. The 'JOY_BTN' number will be what ever number you assigned them to on your interface card. Now I know what you're thinking...'won't exiting pos' 2 to pos' 3 send the value for pos' 1. The answer is yes, except that pos' 3 has an actual down value so it will over rides pos' 2's up value, same goes for pos' 3 going to #2. Hope this helps. DJ

neetz; Welcome to the forums and the world of simpit building. Over the years I have used many kinds of interfaces and all have their strengths and weakness'. Depending on how elaborate your pit is, you may use several types of interfaces. As far as switches, the easiest interface I've used is the Leo Bodnar series, both the BU0836X and BBI-32 are easy to wire up and are plug & play (meaning your computer see them as just another joystick). Now about switches and DCS. Don't worry about having to get specialty switches, you won't need them and if you do you'll only use 1-2 of them in your pit. Due to how DCS codes; almost all of the switches will be of the inexpensive off-on, on-off-on type, rotary switches and rotary encoders. DCS has done most of the switch programing for you. Basically switch positions have a value for what they do (ex. Off=0, On=1) in most cases. Even if you've never coded anything before, you'll find it easy to do in DCS. In your formation lighting ex. of (Off-Dim-On), you can use a standard 3 position on-off-on switch and make it work the way it does in game as off-on-on. If you need help getting your switches to function correctly I can show you how to do it.

Milesk; Don't know if you watched this video. It is by XtraSensory and well done. He takes you through a traffic pattern circuit, from take off to landing telling you what he is doing with the controls. And has several how to videos with the Uh-1, packs the right info into a short video.

I have never understood why this was not modeled correctly in DCS. I know its possible from a programing standpoint, because it is modeled correctly in other flight sims.

I don't know if the line was removed by update or not, (if its a user made skin it shouldn't have been effected by the update). However I have noticed of late that some user made skins don't even have this line. Without the line by default every country can use the skin.