Brewnix

Sokol1 was wondering this sensor TLE50xx, I found on OSHpark a shield for TLE5010 someone just posted. https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dB6LPj8O Is this a sensor that reads both axis? my pic above are a semi failed attempt to use hall sensors. wonder which ones better? I am still planning my route. Thanks for all your help.

ok SO here the pic of the stick I bought. technically is came with 2 pots that has the shaft of the pots goes thru the pivot points of the gimbal is 7/8" long. I would believe the CH product joystick might be better even using a new standard pots with shorter shaft might work better then one I got. I have made attempt to place a hall sensor and 2 magnets around hall sensor, in MMJoy2 it did pick it up the movement and made one axis work calibrate in windows. I wonder what distance is optimal for the the magnets around the hall sensors? The sensor and common metal parts I had lying around and super glue. What I did was took apart the original pots kept the shaft and the wiper base mounted to it. I used a 1" square tubing cut it in half and to length, drilled a whole placed and super glued it to the back of old pots holder and shaft. then I place 2 magnets on the inside. it worked, didn't try it in game. only in windows. I am still in planning stages. I am thinking of back tracking and trying the sensors Debolestis. My design works with the superglue but I have had to glue it twice. Its strong by its self but in working on it mounting the sensor I knock angle piece off.

Beautiful!!!! That is cool.

Ya I had bought a TM F15 flight stick and wanted to use the handle for a custom stick I am still working on and its got the ball pivot type with slide pots. I found as per Sokol1 and if you look at the picture above Debolestis has a gimbal with converted sensor type pots looking piece. Like this one. http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/model-6120/24400 looks almost like it pops right in there. But this stick has same gimbal as one in the pic. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thrustmaster-Flight-Control-System-Mark-II-FCS-Joystick-Controller-F4E-F16-A6/231930300999?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36465%26meid%3D9cd1c34f639147218081dd290655014e%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D162065319607 I have it apart now messing around with hallsensors but it would be a complete redesign. Ill post a complete pic of gimbal apart to show or if one of the other guys have a full pic.

Nice work I like it! Clean and tidy What pots did you use for the gimbal?

Nice!

Ok I can change. Wouldn't hurt to try I got to order more stuff anyways I can throw some of those too. I just bought those cause its all the local shop had and I wanted to try this out. Ok thanks!

Ok I can see they didn't have a SR spot but I thought I would take a chance and use the ohm meter to trace the pins see if I could use it. Yes I did test it and it worked for a little bit. Currently I have the Promicro only on the Breadboard and SR in the Throttle handle laying on the desk. The experience I have it worked for about 1 min all buttons were registering 1-8 then I think the breadboard has loose connections or the pin holes are wore out. Cause then it stops working. And one button blinks all buttons at once. I am thinking I have to mount the Promicro solid to get it to work right. So for troubleshooting I used a different shift register but plugged in to the same breadboard and semi same result. So I am thinking common dominator is the bad breadboard. So I am just going to mount the Promicro solid with solder. That's why inquired about the other boards. Wondering just in case the SR bad there is no way to test it correct? I'll wait till you get yours Uploaded.. Thanks for Time!

Hello debolestis was wondering on the comment about the Promicro shield did you happen to see that OSH Park had one I did a search for Joystick and this popped up. Does this look like it will work. https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/fULmditL also https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/SsFjqyuj

Funny turn of events so I did have it working all 8 buttons pressed individually functioned correctly. But it seem to only work correctly for a few mins then it back to press 1 button that lights up all buttons in MMjoy. Like picture above. Does that make any sense?

Wonder if you could take apart a FFB stick and adapt it with a ardiuno board. I had a force feed back stick back in the late 90" I remember it being pretty strong. There on Ebay you could find a cheap one...

Ok I got it back in service. I tried the clear registry button it didn't work, I also tried deleting in the pic above from registry that I circle in red and that didn't work. I eneded up clicking on USBDeview button above the Donate button in firmware tab of Joysetup. I believe this just shows everything that has been plugged in to the USB hub. Correct me if I am wrong. I delete from there the "MMjoy2-20150626" and "MMjoy2-220151118" unplugged the device and plugged it back in and my new Named USB Composite Device "X55 Hybrid" showed up... "MMjoy2-20150626" and "MMjoy2-220151118" these 2 canceled each other out I guess causing joysetup not seeing the device. But USBDeview is good option. Thanks for all the help almost there!!!!! UPDATE!! I installed PCB added all 8 buttons and 2 axes for Dual throttle. The only problem now is when I Move small stick on switch to activate one button it activates all buttons at once. out of the 8 positions I have wired one position activates all. And the other 7 position of switches don't do nothing. What the chances of the cd4021 being damaged with all the fiddling around, are they sensitive to voltage. I know it says max of 20volts on the tech sheet.

No I don't see the new name or the old name in the Device List Configuration. When I plug promicro in it acts like its connected I hear the boink noise but it does not populate in the Joysetup program. So I can't select it. So I have looked in Regedit but i don't see the name that I remember it being what it was vid-8888 pid-8888 and MMjoy2 or the name I put in there with the same vid and pid x55hybrid. How about the clear registry button on the firmware page? Can I hit that or will that clear all the joysticks I have in there? Which wouldn't be problem just got to remove equipment hit clear reg and then reinstall all equipment? So If I reset the pro micro and can't see it in the device list to select it does it still install the firmware to promicro with out selecting it? Thanks EDIT0- Ok so I found that section of registry where I see the name

So I understand alittle of what your saying if I load a joystick with x and y axis but later added a throttle and slider I would have to change the vid and pid cause technically it would be a different device? So I currently didn't change any of those numbers cause I didn't know anything about them. After downloading the new firmware from version 20151118 I set up 2 axis and 2 buttons for test trial the vid and pid were the same I just put a new USB Name. Right now they are vid8888 PID8888. So set it up and hit Saves set to device and I think it bricked the Promicro. It doesn't show its connected or do you hear the bump noise when you plug a USB device in. I never got the restart device now window from MMJoy after I loaded the set in the chip. When I press the RST and GRD twice it does boot into bootloader mode for the 8 seconds shows me the com7 in device manager.but shuts off and nothing in mmjoy USB lists. SO do you think there is conflict with the vid pid numbers in Registry that caused it brick.;Maybe I need to remove form registry start over. So currently I am trying to figure out if I can unbrick it I do have a spare but I want to see if I can undo my mistake first. There seems to be a few ways to unbrick them. It did take the previous firm ware upload but it still doesn't show up in the USB list of mmjoy. well going to figure it out or roll to new Promicro. Thanks!

Ok cool I got it reloaded with new firmware going to test tonight Thanks for the time. I appreciate the pictures and arrows the little that I have done to show where I was at in this project,I realize it takes along time to put that together. Ill post later Thanks

For the cheap version I currently run 3 Westinghouse 40in LCD on my system. Just make sure the TV has a VGA port for the computer. Standard HDMI 1.4 is not good for computer the processing that the LCD does for TV signal is horrible for computer, unless its HDMI 2.0. But with the VGA port you can have TV plugged in to the HDMi and the computer plugged into the VGA. just swap inputs to use comp or tv.

Ok so when you say leave mode default you mean leave it blank with the *******? Right know the "Shift" and "Timer ON" just leaves those blank with *******? To be correct, you point the SR to MISO. Which in this case is B3 on Promicro? So I have also tried to point SR to B1 and B2 and all 8 buttons blink by them selves on MMjoy and in windows Joy.cpl. Heres a pic of my what I think the pinout should be from SR to PCB board to the promicro. Currently the way the PCB is Situated when you place a switch on the switch headers next to the Resistor network it shorts a path to ground. For the specific pin Like Button 1 would be Pin 7. Other Question on the PCB there is stand alone resistor at the top of the board One side ties to VCC on the left side and other pin whole ties to pin 11 on the SR I placed a 10k Ohm resistor here cause I saw it on the board. Looking at other schematics when linking SR lets 2 SR you run the second SR "Pin3-Q8" to "Pin11 Serial in" So with the 10k ohm resistor there voltage is getting to Pin11. Should I have put resistor in there or left it empty? Sorry about it being small you might have to view and zoom. There a lot of time in posting and typing pics I am just breaking into this electronics and learning on the fly. Trying to understand the engineering behind the build to be able to trouble shoot and also learn a program. I love the challenge!!! I Appreciate the help! Thanks!

Ok so I have been fiddling with it this is what it looks like now that I have uploaded I Have only uploaded 8 buttons but it shows 16 in red does that mean 16 are being pressed all at once? And are the pinouts correct in the shift register setup window?

Thanks so I have the latest version MMJOY. I have pic I am by far no graphic artist but appreciate the help. SO I have loaded one throttle axis with 10k ohm pots it works. Then I added built pcb shiftreg to the promicro. I placed the CS and Miso pins in the shiftreg box. And the quantity of cd4021 next the pin. Not for sure it only goes to 4 in pull down menu. Then I added 8 buttons to the H/B Panel they appear on the joy.cpl but do not function. So I think either my CD4021 board is no functioning correctly do to my error or I am not config correctly in MMjoy. When I plug the wires into shift pcb and up load I get the Pots throttle and 8 buttons but dont lit up Sorry pic on small I don't know how to make it zoom

Ok so I was wondering if there is a little more in depth post on how to config shift registers in mmjoy2. The section in github doesn't really look like the same version I have on MMjoy2. Your not able to select the type of shift register your using. And is the window pane to the right of the four pull down menus labeled shift register "H/B Buttons" is where you program the button. I can get buttons to show up but no button presses is seen windows. heres a pic of the board earlier I shown but complete. I had to use the Electrolyte cap. at the store there was no 104's to buy so I bought this one and checked with ohm meter which side of the wholes for cap was connected to power for polarity.100nf and 50volt. Heres a pic of the little hat switches that Debolestis found I got 2 and wired them here. When I clip ohm meter to between to the I guess positive side and test each axis I have good continuity when switch is activated. I had taken out the grey buttons made the whole alittle bit bigger and cut and filed a plate so the switches would sit flat and I used some of those rubber feet you place on appliances and a four way cross bar to hold down the switches with nylon stand offs I have. Thanks

Thanks!

WOW! good job! Curious I currently have the same Flight stick tore apart to build my own. In the planning stages. But how did you wire the hat switches in the grip did you pull the pcb apart or just solder wire on top of the switches... Thanks!

I use buttkicker simulator kit with simshaker software. Currently how is your Buttkicker connected to the stereo subwoofer thru a sound card? SO how I have it setup is I listen to game thru my headset Astro A40 thru the fiber connection and I point the software to a second sound card to stream the data from the game to the buttkicker. I had a really old Audigy ZS card lying in the closet I dug up to use.

Ok Good to know. I Googled capacitors and read a bit. I realized mine was polarized. SO the idea behind having voltage doubled is that way if the power consumption is to much the cap won't go bad. I have seen bulged cap before. Any was ill stick to the design. Plus I like the idea of the ceramic ones its fail safe.. Thanks for the link! Almost there

Ok question.. I ran down and bought a 100uf/ 6.3volt electrolytic cap. while soldering parts on the board thru the magnifying glass I realized it said 100nF not uF. So thats the wrong cap and I should get the 100nF one right? I will post some pics and share. I have order the network resistors but I did sacrifice one board and built my own net resistor and like you said its ugly but I wanted to get this going so it not real bad put functional. Should I stick some vinyl tape over the bridge I made? Man it looks worst up close....:doh: