Brewnix

Debolestis, So I got few of your boards from OSH Park. For my plans I have bought the 8,16,24 pcb's They have great prices. The boards are nice. I do have a few questions though. Being new to this electronic world I want to make sure before I solder something. So in your pic above the RED bar going along the left side of the Shift Register 9pins long, is one buss bar all connected? And to load the board with the pin headers in your pic and resistor and solder the bottom of board? And if I read the posts above right the capacitor is only needed if you are linking multiple shift register together? Thanks for your time.

ah I see. Thanks!

a Thanks!

Ok I didn't know you could correct bezel thru /monitorsetup. I am actually running pretty good with no issue. You might be right on the theory changing you center monitor causing the difference. It is also on your height of the display and my difference is in the width. Funny I had bought these 3 40in TV's all the same but couldn't use surround cause the timings were off. had to manually adjust timings with custom resolution in NVidia control panel. I am also running Bitshift's virtual cockpit exporting the MFCD's to a 23 inch monitor with cougars mounted on the screen.. I tired some different monitor LUA's but after I found the right setting DCS stop recognizing the custom LUA's I had put in there. So I would be interested on how to correct the bezel thru monitor setup is there a read on it? Thanks

Hello, I have the same problem my monitors/40in LCD TV's 1920x1080 for each should result as 5760x1080. But its currently running at 5890x1080 with the aspect ration is 2.7268518518519. When I force it in to 5760x1080 I get the task bar and about a inch of the desktop on both sides of the outer screens far edges. So Right now I have the all 3 screens in NVidia surround with bezel correction. When I check res in Nvidia control panel is shows the 5890x1080 resolution. SO my question is do you have the desktop in surround with bezel correction? I think that is the cause of the different resolution setting for me.

That's awesome..

as of right now mine are detected as a game pad its always been like that since the beginning. I assumed it might be a generic driver thing maybe. Mine function fine though. Does yours still function normal. EDIT actually my Saitek X52pro and Flight combat pedals are game pads!!

Nice thats awesome! Thanks for your time on that..There even on the same side of country as me. I have been pouring over fritzing tring to get a pcb for my throttle and the shift registers i putting in there.with little success.i ll definately utilize your boards.

Ok so I have been stewing over parts and direction to go with my throttle and stick so I found these and ended up ordering some parts I got 4 each. I figured for the throttle I would put 2 shift registers in the right handle Use it for TMS and DMS. A second register for the 2 buttons on pots and red switch and those little sticks near the red switch is a funny setup and wiring. Gonna hold off on those till later. Then ill have 2 more shift registers for the toggles on the base.Those little hat switches were the cheapest here in the states. everywhere else they were $20. Then rewire the pots on the throttle and the ones on the grip. should be good. Still stuck on the pcb's but I got a lot of good pcb pic I can work on. Thanks! 4X http://www.onlinecomponents.com/national-semi-cd4021bcn.html?p=11979465 and 4X http://www.onlinecomponents.com/alps-electric-rkjxl100401v.html?p=10114290

ah sorry ya I'd say check the warranty out first I didn't realize you still had warranty..

Sounds like something was unplugged. I have a couple of usb controllers for joysticks lying around when I plug them in and they have no buttons attached they act like that. Looks good to windows but nothing happens. Well since your taking it apart you'll find out. Maybe the wire connector was wound too tight thru the stick to the nearest pcb and was slowly working its way apart.

So I know I asked about this on the other thread but I am wondering about the resistors connected to ground. What is the theory behind the buttons wire in pin and resistor connected to ground? Thanks!

Hello have you guys seen this!! http://www.polygon.com/2013/6/3/4390918/exoskeleton-gaming-suit-will-replicate-senses-for-900000-on http://www.roadtovr.com/teslasuit-kickstarter-is-live-full-body-haptic-suits-start-at-1799/

Thanks for those board designs those are nice and help out a lot. Got one more question. On this pic from your Adruino link tutorial. On the out bound wire from switch to respective button pin out why is there a 10k ohm resistor to ground bus? They don't mention the resistor in the tutorial.

Sokol1, Ok so I got the Shift Register and Promicro. I have read the tutorial a few times can't seem to grab the idea of in and out on the cd4021.So I'm thinking cause they use the Arduino NG as reference its throwing me off. I found the Arduino NG schematic but its says pin 8 and 7 are digital no reference to which one is in or out. Wire to and from CD4021b to Promicro should be, I am taking a stab here.. Q8,Pin 3---------------------------MOSI- B2 Parrel/Serial Control,Pin 9--------MISO- B1 Clock,Pin 10-----------------------SCLK- B3 And to conn multi shiftreg--Q8,Pin3 of second shiftreg to Serial In,Pin11 of first shiftreg. Appreciate the help there wasn't a exact diagram going to the Promicro and I am new to electronic building. Thanks again for input.

Wow!!! I like your gimbal. Good design.. was wondering how close to center does the springs bring the stick when you let go?

Ok cool im gonna try that shift register.also found and downloaded the fritzing gonna play around with it and see

Ok I read the ardiuno link. That sounds like a good idea cause the path from the right throttle handle to the base is kind of small, least amount of wires would be better. So where do you get your shift registers. I found some on amazon http://www.amazon.com/CD4021-CD4021BE-STATIC-Integrated-Circuit/dp/B00I6ICNNA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459226933&sr=8-2&keywords=cd4021b or this on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/CD4021B-Original-New-Goldstar-Integrated-Circuit-replaces-NTE4021B-/121069839775?hash=item1c3053259f:g:zQ0AAOxyD5pRJPCa I did find a shift register on Sparkfun with a breakout. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10680 not for sure if its the same thing. Or does MMjoy only uses the CD4021? I have visited the Fritizing once I'll check it out again cause I got a lot to work with here thanks!

Thanks for that links and pic that gives me good ideas on this project. I guess it would be good to get a standard set of connectors. My coneectors look like i would looking for days to find the right ones.

Thanks for the reply. I mapped out the base of the throttle was semi easy. But its when i got to the right throttle handle is when i realize i might just using some of the buttons and redoing my Own config like you are talking about. The toggles down on base look like all one set of post were tied to ground like gp40 wiz cause i had continuity between all the center post which on board was labeled ground and the other post were individual. Is that the shift register system your talking about. I also think the right throttle might have its own matrix board. It had a board that looked like it had abunch of diodes or resister. They are really small. Cant see em without magnifying glass.. Thanks

Ok so got a little project with t a X-55 I bought on eBay that was reported that the USB device is not recognized when plugged in. My goal was to get a dual throttle system much cheaper then the working warthog. So I found a broken X55 on eBay which there are more then a few of these babies floating around. And I got to thinking with all the talk about the outstanding program of MMJOY2 and Promicro chip build your own peripherals I would find something broken or old and revamp it and make it work. So I am at the beginning stages and I already got the 2 throttles and one knob that turns out to be a pots tied to the chip and working to the throttle of mmjoy2. So I got it to work and calibrated thru windows and the axis are working good. So this is just a test so far for the axis and my next venture is to create a buttons matrix with the toggles on the base and maybe rewire a few of the buttons on the throttle. So my dilemma is, I want to utilize the connecters that some of the switches are already connected to. And was wondering what would you call these connectors and maybe a vendor that has them for sale. I have found a few but they differ form mine on the x55. Plus some of my connectors female and male are double rows anywhere from 4 to 7 pin across. My next step if I cant find the name of these or buy them is I am going to have to de solder the ones off the boards in the throttle I am not using with my own board or splice setup. I would prefer not to de solder Its just my solder skills are extremely new and tend to forgot about the heat and melt stuff. Any help on the name or a vendor would be great. Thanks..

Thanks for the help a lot good info. When I get chance I am going pm BAUR about that gimbal. I am thinking it would be good. It looks solid and for around 90$ that's a great price in my opinion. I can appreciate the reconstruction of old stuff. That is sometimes a feat in its self. I do have a Promicro board I bought from the local electronic store. It was $14.99. I know there the clones on ebay less but. But its good to help the local vendors. Thanks!

Thanks Sokol1. I did see that post a couple of times. http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/3108472/Searchpage/1/Main/319346/Words/docflyer/Search/true/Re_Suncom_F_15_100_SOLUTION_Ha.html#Post3108472 But all the pics are broken to me. So I guess where is the DOC flyers guide at, is there another webpage. I tried searching and nothing really comes up.. Was wondering I have seen the BAUR gimbal in SimHQ. Is there a web page to buy the gimbal from? I personally got the Talon for the handle I wanted a semi close look to the F18 Flightstick when that DCS module comes out and wanted to add a extension. So really I have a open canvas for any modification to the stick. Or my own modified flight stick. I don't really need the talon to be exact as it was base and all. I thought might be able to use it. Thanks

Thanks! I was curious I went thru the whole thread intrigue with your project got motivated and got my own Talon to mod. But was wondering what solution did you come up with replacing the pots. Looks like you were doing hall sensors but I didn't find any other pic on how you mounted them. Thanks for your time.

Hey just for another reference for a china hat switch seems to be not too much in price, I thought it was relevant to the thread. Couldn't really find specs on how big or tall. Anyone got experience with this switch... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/infinitygripaccess5.php