Brewnix

Wondering on the wood beds that are not even could you use the router to cut it flat and even to the spindle?

Oculus is in USA. Maybe corporate america was the wrong name to use, I guess. I have just seen a pattern living here all my life.

@Wormeaten, The 3glasses specs looks awesome. I have been drooling over there site wondering about how far they are in the development, They have a section that states it steam compatible and they list DCS in the list of games as support. Is this there goal and they are not there yet. I have thought about giving my email as a interest in there product. Just curious if you did and they said DCS is not support as of yet? I am in agreement with you this HMD I believe the first thing the should of done made it compatible every where. Not stream line it to a few or proprietary game and low rez equipment. Unfortunately here is "corporate america" the standard practice is to drag the tech out over years, I call it the "milk man" theory. Think of how it works for example when the first flip cell phones came out everyone flocked to get one from there cell carriers. If the next month they launched smart phones all those years of lost revenue in upgrades of flip phones down the tubes. They drag it out to milk the consumer then offer the next upgrade. This is to make yesterday's tech pay forward for the future tech. Not for sure if its exactly the idea but it kind of makes sense why it always start small. I believe they new about smart phones along time before we as consumers did. They have there excuses I guess.

Hi all, I currently don't have HMD. But I have been intently following the VR threads I do plan to get a HMD just waiting to see how things pan out. From what I have read about the Pimax 4K is it compresses the signal thru HDMI 1.4 then it upscale it at the headset side. So since they are compressing the signal and upscaling what kind of processing power do you need for that? I don't think the processing power is the same on a upscale signal compared to a real display device that supports resolution at 4k/60hz refresh HDMI 2.0 or Displayport. Just interesting read on how it works. http://forum.pimaxvr.com/t/the-instructions-about-resolution/551

Interesting idea. Those might be standard parts there using pots, slide pots, encoders. They have just made them in to removable modules. I know that there different pots that are better for volume control then a standard 10k ohm pots. The key is how the OS sees the device and can other software see and use it. I guess a open usb controller. I would imagine you would have to ask them that. Or wait till you get your hands on one and experiment, load DCS and see if it see's the device. Personally I would think they are going to make proprietary.

Thanks for the response I guess muscle memory would take hold after awhile. @Thadiun Okona nice ext that is very clean. Good workmanship. I built my ext too! I used the Gardena nut and PVC. It is not pretty but it works. I put a coupler on cut it to about 3/8in and shaved the edge down at a eyeballed 45 degree angle for the Gardena nut to tighten against. For my offset the springs are a must.

Very nice pit! So how is it flying with the HMD and using the switches in your cockpit?

That is a good question.

How about this place PS tools. Have you looked at this stuff. http://psfalcon.blogspot.com/2013_11_01_archive.html I know there was a Thread a bit ago about it, maybe can buy PCB parts. Maybe this is a options. I don't know anything about them other then the Post i saw. EDIT= Here it is https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=178514 When I get my MFD's I plan to try to use a Promicro board with shift registers and MMJoy for the USB controller program. Its great free Program for programming USB, I have no idea how to write code so the Arduino is on the self for now and MMjoy is a easy learning process and there is alot of help on forums.

I think technically this was just a recent pop up for panels for sale it was just posted about a month or 2 ago. I can't remember which part of the forum it was in, Homecockpits or InputOutput. I was trying to look for the post to show you but have not found it. It didn't get alot of traffic. But I saved the links when it was posted, the poster also posted his own web site with the products that are for sale. Linked to PCflights. This was the person I believe that made the panels. https://jager1726.jimdo.com/ Which is funny cause I went to his sight right after it was posted to inquire about if he had plans of developing per spec size A10C MFD's bezels with buttons and got not response. Just FYI there is another panel maker far away from me, not real sure where but I found they had MFD bezels with buttons ready to backlit for sale. There shipping is expensive to me but I am trying it out so I ordered a set... http://hispapanels.com/tienda/en/

Thanks for sharing that is a awesome build!

Might want to read Pappavis thread. Well maybe skim over he wrote his progress> https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=161398

Nice! Glad it was helpful!

I have the Buttkicker simulations kit when there is no activity the amp has a auto off when no data sent to it? On long flights hanging out for waiting for tasking it will shut off have to hit airbrake to get the amp on again.Oh iam using simshaker for reference.

Hi hansangb, Congrats on that machine. That actually is not a bad price for getting in to the CNC world. Funny everyday I read and look for build cnc diy kits not once did this guys web page came up. But thanks for sharing cause I am pretty interested to see how it works.

Hello Sarge, So how did you move the kneeboard did you use the LUA file on the other post. Cause that is the only way I know and heard of moving the Kneeboard. I think it has something to do that its a protected file and not a export like other gauges. Changing the kneeboard will bump your integrity check for protected servers.But here's a bad pic I placed on my squadron forums. You have to keep moving the kneeboard on the x axis to get out from under the right MFD. So if your are using the lua it will move it you just got to walk it to the position you want. Hope that helps! Oh and I gave up on moving the kneeboard cause the next patch changed my modified kneeboard lua to a stock lua.

At the end of the the sentence "SimShaker for Aviators (DCS World, Falcon BMS, FSX, P3D supported) setup file;" <-----click "setup file" you will download SSA unzip and install. Yes this can be used for Buttkicker.

ok thanks McMicha!

Hello Trip, I think you want to go here https://dreamsimteam.blogspot.ru/p/downloads.html Simshaker is download for free limited use and donate to get a key. but SimShaker for Aviators is new software that is for free I think. But all are download at link above.

Ah FYI! 1070 card don't do analog signal. Just in case you haven't heard that yet. I ran in to that problem I had 3 40in lcd tv's with 3 displayport to VGA cords plugged in to a 970 and it worked great but not with the 1070 I bought. I had to switch to HDMI cords which if you have to do that remember adjust the sharpness to off or low if you are using tv's or HDMI 1.4 of some sort and its not consider a computer monitor. Low or no sharpness will get the grainy look out of the desktop.

Nice work! I like Ikarus easier to understand and line things up.I personally had alittle trouble understanding the Helios thing. And I was a little slow on understanding where to place the export file.I guess I was placing the wrong folder in the right spot I am not LUA expert. But I got it to work and have a few questions. First when you designed the Front panel dash for the A10c what would be the optimum screen size for the dash to be close to 1.1 scale of the real aircraft or close. Right now I have MFCD's cougars strapped to a 23in monitor and have to use the front panel without MFCD bezel to resize the MFCD export to fit the cougars size? Second, The "NMSP - ABLE-STOW ADI Localizer Bar" switch I can't grab and move it. It just jumps around the screen never landing in the spot I want it to. I have had the problem with the other buttons,but the easy work around is enlarge the button click and drag slowly. But this button doesn't respond to any click and drag. Its a FYI actually, it might be a bug maybe not. I am technically using Ikarus for the front dash gauges don't really need the buttons to push on the dash. So its not a real big deal just thought I mention it. Maybe i missed something. Heres a pic of my progress. Thanks!

Ok so i reventured in to the Rotary Encoder setup after a break re did some things. Found New version of mmjoy on google drive , this one v20161101. Re did my PCB to just 3 encoders per board and soldered 2 boards up for 6 encoders 12 buttons. Got it working. I also threw in there 4 axis for later. SO for a total of 25 button presses.12 buttons are encoders and the rest of the buttons are on 2 cd4021 shift registers. I used Debolestis boards from OshPark for the SR like in my throttle. I had to build a Y harness for the encoder matrix. I used encoders with 20 detent and center button press. I also tried encoders with 30 detent. But the 20 clicks fires every click and the 30 click encoder fires every other click. Didn't feel right. I like the 20 click encoders. I iam not sure what was wrong with previous version for the encoders but this new version works good.So the PCB i des for encoders work good i built in Fritzing. And a modification of PCB Promicro shield i had been helped on building,I have started my own shared projects in OshPark. https://www.oshpark.com/profiles/Brewnix This is just for funnsy. Thanks for all the help.

Ok this is good. I feel better on the small stuff. Thanks all! wow that video is a eye opener just smear solder down the row of pins!

@ Sergey Pe,Thanks! This is good info ill try my soldering Iron first. Probably pick up some different tips. @swissMAG not sure what size the SMD parts are.I have thought about some of those units on amazon. 3 in 1 so i guess the key is keep a eye out for a unit to be able to adjust the heat if i have to upgrade.Thanks.

Nice work Sergey Pe.I am definitely gonna utilize a PCB for my Talon Project. So i have been pondering the SMD world of soldering. So like debolestis was saying that this might be a advance solder job. I notice on Youtube there is a few different techniques. Hot air with paste and a smaller diameter solder wire. Which way have you used to solder these. I plan to master this smd parts by hand. But curious how every one does it? Thanks!