debolestis

Shapeways simply doesn't offer grey color. I don't know why. White material is not transparent and can be painted.

I used switches that I removed from old FLCS. It is probably "standard" tactile switch. I need to check which type it is.

There is not grey material on Shapeways, but there is metallic plastic. Metallic Plastic is Nylon Plastic filled with Aluminum dust. This dust gives Metallic Plastic the sparkle, but also makes the material more brittle than the Strong & Flexible material. HERE is explanation. It is grayish in color. That is the best I can do. HERE is the link. Where are you going to use these buttons? Save

Thank you Sokol, I missed that one.

Thank you very much for your feedback. I'll rework the model. I think I need better caliper. The one I have is 2000 years old and 0,1mm makes huge difference.

I have 3 versions of switches. You have to buy knob separately. Of course you have to install tactile switches inside. Maybe this PCB will help, I just made it few days ago. Switches are HERE, HERE and HERE. Switches are compatible with TM 4way switches.

OK, it is done. I made a new version of knob that is compatible with 5way CMS switch. You can find it HERE. I tried my best to measure everything correctly, I am not sure if mounting metal part will fit, you'll have to modify it manually, maybe. 0,1mm makes a huge difference here. You'll see that it looks a little different, but I had to do it like that. Here is your button.

OK, I understand, I'll think of something. Can you draw by hand "light grey" buttoms?

If you have 4way then I recommend 2 chip PCB, than it will be plug and play. I cannot help you with brake.

In that case 1 chip shift register will work. HERE is the link for a PCB. Only question is there enough room inside for it.

Ok, how many switches in the grip?

There is always Warthog in movies. I just saw this in TV show from 2008 The Andromeda Strain. X-Fighter And old TQS.

What grip do you have in mind?

I just saw I made mistake. If shift register with one chip is used than RIGHT chip is active. Just like in picture above, simply ignore left chip. TM firmware doesn't see 2 positions in cas of Cougar and one position in case of Warthog. Third pad from top is unusable, and Cougar doesn't see H4P. Elmo, I have 4way switches and knobs in my store, knobs are compatible with TM.

I can make this knob, only question is for which switch. I can make it compatible with 4way switches, or maybe with certain type of toggle switch. What would be best solution?

If you use shift register with one chip, than left chip is active. In that case you can use only 6 buttons for Cougar and 7 for Warthog base. There are 8 switches in B8 grip, so 2 chip sr is necessary.

There is possibility of adding 6 more switches. - Pink rectangle is H2 or H3 I am not sure. - Yellow rectangle is S1 and S4. You don't have to solder R1, 10K resistor on PCB, It is not necessary in this setup. It is used when SR are daisy-chained. You can also skip capacitor C1, it is not necessary. There is tailpiece in my Shapeways store for Suncom grips. A member of this forum Sergey_Pe made a PCB for Suncom grips but it is for SMD components and it is not something that I'd recommend for beginner to solder. He said that he'll try to make a new version with bigger, through hole components. Maybe you know somebody who can do this for you. He also shared his work.

I have this without pro micro. It is tested and works.

I can donate my old shield pcb. It would be easy to connect matrix, axes and pro micro to it. You can see it a few posts back. It is CNC made PCB. If somebody is interested send me a PM.

In this case it is not possible to connect h4, pads below H1 are for H2 or H3, I need to check that. For H4 you need 3 chip shift register and one that I have on OSH park will not fit. Maybe you can find old FLCS or Cougar shift register, they are smaller and they coul probably fit inside grip. I'll make new vetsions of my sift registers for SMD components that will be smaller, but it will take some time.

We'll help, don't worry.

It is probably 800$ for steel around 1500 for aluminum. Maybe titanium...

Great work Sergey, I love how PCB is integrated into grip design. Minimal wiring, very clean. Too bad I made modifications inside grip, now I cannot do the same as you.

I made new modifications on my throttle. I decided to switch to shift registers instead of button matrix. In the end it works the same but now wiring is much cleaner. It is also joy to work with shift registers, it is straight forward, I simply wired switches to appropriate pads on PCB, no more diodes and having that crazy schematics in my head all the time. There are much less wires that are going from grips to base. Before there were 13 wires from right grip to base, now it is 7, 5 for SR and 2 for axes for thumbstick. This is the end result: I designed shield for Leonardo pro micro, amplifier and one Shift register. I can explain how it works if somebody is interested, but I think most of people will figure it out on their own. It can be ordered HERE. I removed Dowty locking switches and replaced them with Honeywell's momentary toggles. There is one new problem now. There is not enough space inside grips and SR PCBs take space. I had to remove a lock from right grip. Now I need to figure out how to 3D print a new one that will fit. I also replaced 4way switch with new 3D printed. It has spring like in Warthog and now it feels much better. Now I have to explore beautiful world of super tiny SMD components that I'll use in my new SR designs. SMD components are smaller and PCBs will also be smaller. That will be handy for future projects as well.

Yes tailpiece and gardena nut and electronics. It is written in earlier post.