debolestis

You mean 4Way switches. It is not yet finished, I need to make a few modifications. 4 switches are also needed for it to work.

Price is $5.64 for black minus 20% next week. Stainless steel is $17.81.

Next week Shapeways has 20% off on all strong and flexible plastic, that is nylon. Use this code SFONSALE20 Thank you!

To install this knob you have to disassemble the grip. Maybe it is possible without disassembly but in that case something could get damaged. I didn't photographed whole procedure but it is not difficult. In the end there is something like this: When this screw is removed than knob with shaft can be pull out. I used pincers as a lever to remove the knob. Than put new knob on shaft and put everything back together. I had older version of DMS knob that I printed for FLCS. This is how it looks now. I was also working on complete 4 way switch assembly. I printed first version, it works but still needs a few improvements. Here it is assembled.

I bought Warthog grip last month. There are few things that I don't like on it. One thing is DMS knob, because it is not ergonomic and slippery. I already made DMS knob for old FLCS and F22 joysticks. I didn't know how this knob is mounted in Warthog and Cougar. I made full disassembly and saw that TM use nearly the same switches as in FLCS and F22, minimal changes, different material. I also find a few photos of real grip, this one is from Guardian electric web site. I found drawing on OTTO website and than I made two versions. Castle hat Stadium hat In my next post I'll explain how to install them.

OK, so you want me to make CH to VKB adapter? Shift register is already made. Problem is that I don't have VKB hardware. Can you find a measurments of Warthog to VKB adapter. What connector is used?

I printed Suncom to Thrustmaster adapter on Shapeways. It works, more on it HERE:

I printed Suncom to Thrustmaster adapter, and it work fine with Gardena hose adapter nut. It can be bought HERE. If you cannot find original 5 pin DIN connector you can buy it HERE. Shift register PCB is also necessary, it can be bought HERE. Gardena nut can be bought in almost any hardware store, plastic one works as well. It seems to be strong enough, I guess time will tell...

I also don't understated why people want to have metal grips. They are so heavy an require ridiculously heavy springs to work. Resin would be awesome solution. Keep up the good work Hegyck!!!

I made a few changes to my HOTAS. I added 4 new switches to SFS throttle and made few modifications on gimbal. I had Honeywell toggles, one Otto push button and two Dowty locking toggles. I wanted to use Dowty (grey) toggles as shift switches, but I think I l'll remove one and replace it with another Honeywell toggle. On joystick, I added 4 springs like on this photo: I removed original springs in CH gimbal, now there is no center bump. Feeling is very similar to Cougar NXT gimbal. It works surprisingly well, I am very happy with result.

Thank you!

That is the main problem of this gimbal type. Eagle has all the same buttons as talon, there are no 5way or 3way switches. Unless you need it as collectible, there is no point spending a lot of money on it. If your main goal is conversion, buy any other.

Hi guys, I wasn't here for two days and this thread happened. I haven't tested Suncom to TM adapter yet (I ordered it a few days ago), I am glad that it works. I'd like to add a few things: Any model can be printed in metal or plastic, you just have to select material. When material is selected a new price will be shown. I made this ticker version of TM tailpiece for plastic prints. Plastic is actually nylon and it is very strong. A version of it (first version with less plastic) was tested on Warthog base and it worked just fine. I think there is no need for metal prints anyway. But if you choose stainless steel know that it is many times stronger from TM original material, I worked on one tail piece and it was very hard to drill. Any version can be printed in metal or plastic. If you want to mod F15 grip, there is no need now to cannibalize shift register board from other TM hardware. You can make one for your self. Like in this photo: I posted these boards on my OSH Park page, They have free shipping and price is for 3 PCBs. I waited for about 3 weeks for my order to arrive to Croatia from USA. I started to work on 4Way switches and knobs that are compatible with Warthog (I hope). This is now in test phase, I made knobs for F15 grip as well. In my opinion, if you mod Suncom F15 grip to TM base, original PCB must be removed, Shift register PCB is needed and switches must be similar to CH or TM 4way switches. I have one request. I sold so far 61 models but I had almost no feedback. So please guys if you order something post a few photos on my Shapewys store or in this thread. Feedback is important to me so that I can make necessary improvements. Flashben can I use your photos in my Shapeways store? Thank you!

I have modifed CH Flightstick pro with TT electronics sensor model 6120. We'll continue our work on TLE 5010 sensor and shield for pro micro. I still don't understand where all pins from TLE should be connected.

I assembled everything an it works!!! PCBs work individually in version with 1,2 and 3 chips, I didn't buy version with 4. Daisy chaining works, I connected all three versions together, 6 chips total and it worked. I didn't have spare Leonardo board so I used one from my joystick. Daisy chain: Here you can see assembled PCBs. Nice thing with shift registers is that Mmjoy2 reads button presses in order, matrix is a mess in my case. Switches are going 1 to 8 like in picture, starting from chip on the left in case of multiple chips. I had a problem in the beginning, nothing worked and I thought I messed something up. Problem was, like in most cases a bad connection, one wire on ribbon cable was faulty. I didn't had that problem before but now I know it can happen. One advice on soldering, I recommend to solder first yellow pin headers, then resistor network and then chips and other components. Soldering pads bellow yellow headers are very small and it it easier to solder them first. I didn't have 100nF capacitor so I used bigger 470nF, it worked anyway. 4021 chips are on sockets, you never know when you'll get a faulty chip. It is not necessary, but I started with that practice while I was building guitar pedals and sometimes chips arrived faulty, this way it was easy to replace them.

Good work zmbtwo! All parts finally arrived, I'll post results tomorrow.

THIS for pro micro. SOCKETS for chips. I use this RIBBON CABLES for connections. They are precrimped. I have crimping tool but it is not easy to do it yourself, it takes a lot of practice and patience. There are 10, 20 and 30cm cables. I usually remove 1 pin headers and use THIS and THIS. I simply cut them to size that I need.

OK, at least it worked for a while. It seems to me like you have bad connection somewhere. I am not sure if capacitor is the problem, it is there to smooth 5v in case there is HF noise, but you can try with other dielectric types. I never solder promicro board, I use female headers. Also sockets for chips, if you are not skilled with soldering iron and apply too much heat you can damage components.

I didn't have time to finish it. I'll upload it on OSH Park in next few days. Two boards that you found are suitable for button matrix, rows and columns, not shift registers. Have you tested SR yet?

Thank you Sokol, that is the reason why some numbers didn't work.

OK, please download latest firmware, HERE. Click "viev raw" and download starts. 1.) Select device, joystick image to the left will turn blue 2.) Assign CS and MISO. This is in new version of MMjoy2, in older versions, MISO was B2 by default. CLK goes to B1. In upper example I assigned CS to D3 and MISO to D2. You can select other pins if you want to. Also select 4021 for Shift register and number of chips to 1. 3.) Click save sets to device. Device will reboot. Wait for a few seconds and again select device, joystick must turn blue. 4.) Than you can start pressing switches, and you should (if I made PCB correctly) see switch presses on switch table (1-96). 5.) Assign switches to buttons in table on the right. I made example with 3 switches. Switch press 04 on the left table I assigned to button 3 on the right table, MODE, SHIFT and TIMER ON leave as it is, it is for other functions, you'll see that later. 6.) Than save sets to device again and that should work. You can change VID/PID numbers, i think they are 4 digit HEX numbers, but with some combinations windows will not open joystick properties panel, just change until you find what works. I have more devices, I use VID 0555, and than PID 0001, 0002 for VID is same for all mad devices PID is diferent. You can change name of device if you want to. Switches connections to SR: You can connect switches individually like switch 4, or connect common wire and 3 outputs like in switches 1,2 and 3. Soldering pads in orange rectangle are all connected to GND. Pin 11 is connected to that resistor. I put it there because is is like that in Thrustmaster's SR, you should leave it on PCB. Please post results because I still didn't test this, I am waiting for parts to arrive from China.

You have 2 SR enabled. B3 and B1 for miso. Use just one. On the right table set mde to default value, shift turn off, timer turn off. Also on uppr photo you didn't select controller, picture of joystick is in red.

Are buttons registered when you press them on the left 1 to 96 table? That pulldown menu next to shift registers menu is number of chips on pcb, in your case 1. On upper photo are two different versions of mmjoy2.

Post photo of mmjoy switces tab. Download latest version of mmjoy2 firmware.

you didn't upload the photos in last 3 posts.