debolestis

No, I haven't order tailipece yet. I'll do it in next few days, I need to finish Cougar gimbal first.

As I said that tailpiece is improvised, not printed. Printed part in my shop is shorter like on Warthog. It will not extend the extender.

OK, Sokol thank you!, I'll do that soon, I don't know if anybody needs them. We'll see. Save

I think I got Ka-50 DN-10 knob, more or less. It is eyeballed, so I hope it is OK. It is Thrustmaster compatible, Warthog, Cougar, F22 and FLCS. It can be bought HERE. Save

It can be easily done. You just have to connect toggle switch to appropriate pads on shift register. Only pad Between H4P and S2 is connected to nothing. Pads between S3 and TG2 are S1 and S4. 4 pads below H1L are another hat switch but I forgot which one. On Cougar there is no H4P so it is also useless in that case. It is up to you what pad you'll use.

There you go!

If somebody wants one. Looks like this seller has more of them. Only 2,5 Pounds. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272181179440?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ok, do you have more photos?

Ok, I understand, it will be in my shop tomorrow.

If it is not in my shop, just post a few photos and measurments and I can draw it.

Here is tailpiece/adapter for Mk1 / Top Gun. It can be ordered HERE.

Sokol1 is this drawing for Top Gun or MK 1?

It is different thing if you own 3D printer and other machinery, than costs can go down, maybe 100$ or bellow. Shapeways is good for people like me. I don't actually want 3D printer, just something printed when I need it. Those poor print quality that you saw in Spade grip is probably not Shapeways print. Their print is of great quality, not like ABS or PLA desktop printers.

That is what I was doing in my store. I started with tailpieces and then knobs now I am working on 4way switches, soon I'll start working on push button switch. Soon I'll have most of small hardware for Warthog/Cougar style grip. Going industrial is not what I want, this is just hobby to me. There are much bigger talents here, trust me. This is my new project: I am drawing a gimbal for Cougar, a member of this forum gave me Cougar enclosure, so now I can experiment with it. It will cost around 70$ without my markup. Screws, springs and ball bearings must be bought separately. Sensor and magnets also. It is similar to NXT but a bit bigger and adopted for 3D printing. I'll test it soon and I'll explain whole process of assembling and wiring. There are still many Cougar around and this could prolong their life, I think.

Of all of these grips only a spade grip is printable. It could be done better and it would require some "post processing". All others are not in printable state and are drawn terribly. So I cannot tell for sure. But here is what I know: Each 4way switch is around 10$, unpainted. Each knob is around 7$. Tailpiece is 14$ Paddle lever is 8$. It is around 90 for 4 switches, 4 knobs, tailpiece and paddle lever. Still need to draw S1, 2, 3 and 4 but probably around 10$ so around 130$ for "small parts", all in cheapest material, unpainted. I "disassembled" spade grip. This is what you get: This is only a 2 pieces from that model, there are many other in that model. This 2 pieces cost 107$. I assume that unpainted grip, warthog style, without electronics costs around 250$. It is not cheap sport, it is OK if you need tailpiece or a switch or two but for a whole grip it is not a good idea at the moment. A more "industrial" method must be applied here.

I had this idea: I don't think ministick can fit into 4way slot without drilling throttle.

I don't own a Warthog but I think it is possible. You can do it like in F15 throttle. There is model for antenna elev. knob in my store. You need to drill a hole for a pot and add 3 wires in left grip.

I am sorry but I am not sharing 3D models.

I am not aware of that mod. You need to sacrifice an axis for mod like that.

Voltage is 5V from USB. There is no datasheet but it is connected same as potentiometer. Amplifier is necesary because resolution is very low without it.

I made a few modifications on amplifier board. I increased amplification by changing R4 and R7 from 220K to 1M. Now it works so much better. There is almost no difference between 10 and 14 bits, it looks identical in JoyTester. I updated PCB design on OSH park, there were a few errors on previous design. It can be bought HERE. Save

Please post photos

It is tall, I improvised, soon I'll print a new tailpiece.

I made some tests. It works!!! This is cougar with Über II NXT gimbal and Cubpilot hall sensors. There is a problem with Cougar, there is no CMS press switch on Cougar so it is not seen in windows as button press. Instead of H4P iIt can be connected on pads between TG2 and S3. Those pads are for S1 and S4 switch. On Warthog everything worked normally. That is it. Now I'll work on tailpiece for other TM B8 grips, like Top Gun. If somebody owns other models like PFCS or Mk1 and Mk2 and is willing to make measurements like Sokol1 did, I would be very grateful.

Here is what you need to make B8 grip from X-fighter compatible with Warthog: Material: Tailpiece 2 x 4021 shift registers 2 x 9pin 10k resistor networks 1 x 5pin mini DIN connector 1 x 16 bit shift register PCB 1 x 10k resistor Gardena nut, metal or plastic These are not necessary but I strongly recommend them if you are going to be in joystick modding business. Dupont rainbow cable 20cm Dupont connectors I simply cut them to size Male header connectors heat shrink First of all PCB. I thought of using 1 chip 8 bit shift register, but then I found out that 2 chip 16 bit shift register should be used. This way when B8 grip is plugged into Warthog base its switches will correspond to Warthog switches. POV hat will be POV hat, trigger will be trigger. Problem is that 16 bit PCB is bigger and it fist inside grip only with some modifications. Nothing too difficult. Then disassemble the grip. Remove all the wiring except solid core wire that can be seen in photo below. That is common or ground wire for 4 buttons. POV hat is removed but it has similar wire soldered that is also common. Here is how to connect switches to PCB: Switches are named same as inTARGET. I connected common/ground wires to green pads. For this two you can also use any pad above or below, they are marked as COM. H1U, H1R, H1D and H1L pads are for POV switch. Next to POV hat is a switch that will correspond to Warthog's S2. Pinkie corresponds to Warthog's S3. Thumb switch I connected to Warthog's CMS press switch. I connected trigger to Warthog's TG1. If you want that trigger corresponds to TG2 connect it to blue pad TG2. Output wires are marked in same colors that TM uses. Now disassemble 5pin mini din connector: I used only 3 parts on the left. Solder like in this scheme: This is why is good to have rainbow dupont cable. Remove header and simply plug connector like this: And add just a drop of solder: All connections are so close so some heat shrink. This is other side of connector cable: Inside grip: It could be prettier but it works. I haven't bought tailpiece yet. I'll order it in next week or two, but I have tailpiece that I improvised from original. I used Gardena plastic nut. Metal one feels better IMO. Assembled: I'll also make a model for bracket/holder for this connector. Same as in Warthog/Cougar. Be careful when removing grip since there is no holder and you could damage the connector. Finished and tested it works as predicted. I'll test it on real Warthog and Cougar soon, but it should work.