debolestis

I now use GVL224 sensors. He sold me two sensors and two magnets for 19$, shipping included. He is here on forum just send him a message. I just uploaded new version of gimbal yesterday. I corrected a few things. I'll write a post later today.

No problem, i'll let you know when it is finished.

BTW, I have 5 more PCBs I'll sell them for 15$ + shipping, soldered with all chips and switches and 3 headers (connectors). If I sell them all I'll order a new batch.

You mean that 4way switches feel light? I used 6mm tact switches that are 7mm tall, like original. Maybe I could use 5mm and see how that works. That will give a longer throw. Maybe I have a few around somewhere. I need to test it.

I started this thread 2 years ago with idea to convert Suncom grip to USB, I finished one finally. 5pin DIN connector is not visible but I did same thing like in THIS POST, I just used different headers. Everything works, unfortunately I don't have two hat knobs, they were destroyed in previous modding attempt. I think I'll have to print them. With this new PCB it was very easy mod.

Technically it is doable, there is possibility to add 3 more switches, but it would be very difficult. Some wires should be soldered directly on 4021 chips and they are so tiny.

Will you sell controllers for DIY?

Both, this is easiest way to make it warthog compatible.

I have 6 more PCBs, 15$ soldered if you don't mind 3 extra resistors.

I have finished a few PCBs. I also found a reason for ghosting. Looks like I made a mistake, I had to add 3 resistors. One on top 4021 chip and two on the bottom chip. It doesn't look pretty but it works. This will be corrected for version 2. I am sending 4 of these around the world for testing.

Hello everybody, sorry that I wasn't active lately, it is flu season here and I've got a bad one. Thank you for you feedback, please post all your issues, that is the only way for me to fix them. I have a lot of work to do, but fortunately my vacation just started and I'll have some time to work on my projects. I just saw that you printed aluminum cursor knob, can you make a close up photo or two? Antenna knob must be like that because of its shape. I wanted it to look same as original. Only way to fix this is to make potentiometer shaft shorter. This is right color: Thank you Thadiun Okona, you are very helpful. I just checked and all my shafts are 16mm. I don't know why your is 15.8. Maybe because it is polished, I don't know. I opened my warthog few days ago and remeasured everything, only thing that was different was this: Painted part was 0,5mm lower. I'll change that, maybe that will help with center play. I also got comment that TM shaft is oval in shape. It is not. I think there are some production tolerances on stick that are causing that some people have center play and some don't. O shape is not possible because there are two notches inside grip that would prevent O shape to fit properly.

Do you have issues with tailpiece? Any unwanted movement?

I think it will fit in all Suncom grips, but then you'll have to find out which switch fits in place of that big led. I don't share my models, they are available on my shapeways store.

Not in the stick if you want it to be compatible with warthog. I made amplifier for the throttle.

No problem I am always glad to help.

OK, you need THIS PCB: This a new version of the board, I had diagrams from before for older version but it is basically the same thing. There are 4 pins, look at X Axis from right to left, GND, VCC and IN-X, that is axis output. Fourth pin is same axis but 180 degrees offset, that means inverted. You can also use that one, if it is easier for you to solder. Ignore 4k7 and 220K, there are new values on new PCB. IN-X, IN-Y, VCC and GND from thumbstick connect on the left side of PCB. Right side to BU0836 like this: I also 3D printed mounting holder for thumbstick: You can buy it HERE.

First of all don't use LB board. It is usles compared to 5$ Leonardo pro micro with mmjoy2 firmware. Amplifier is necessary for PS3 thumb stick because without it resolution is very low. You can see in image above how smoth it goes with amplifier. I tweaked a values a bit and I have even better resolution now. I posted results a few posts back. Regular thumbstick with pots desn't need an amplifier but it will become jumpy with time. I recomed PS3 thumstick, it is a bit more work but it is worth it. I upoaded PCB to OSH park.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/VNA99T6N7/cougar-button?optionId=60721546&li=shop-inventory https://www.shapeways.com/product/7V39LXFWQ/cougar-button-large?optionId=60728108&li=shop-inventory

I found out where the problem was. It was cable that connects PCB to base. I mixed up few wires. Now it works but I have problems with ghost presses. Looks like SMD 4021 chips are much more sensitive from "normal" through hole chips that I used before. Then I remembered this schematics, I don't know who is author. My schematics is basically the same, except R25 and R26. I omitted them because everything worked fine without them. Ghosting stopped when I added R25 on upper chip. Now I have ghosting on bottom chip. It is probably R26, I didn't used it before, I'll check this out in next few days.

It is always on, just to look pretty.

Some models like Talon have LED there, it is optional.

PCB finally arrived. I must say that I am very happy with the result. I copied the shape from old PCB that I had. And here is assembled PCB, it looks great. I didn't have switches in through hole version, only in SMD, but they also fit. Bottom side. Here is 12mm switch, All switches that I ordered seems to require more force to actuate than original. It also fits inside grip nicely. Now it is too bad that it doesn't work. It is so irritating when you wait for something for a month and then it doesn't work. Now I need to see what I did wrong. I'll post results soon.

From which country are you shipping?

Thank you!

What is with preorders?