debolestis

Shapeways doesn't print rubber.

That is not bad idea do you have link for this?

There is no really good solution for slide hall sensor mods. I tried it and resolution so, so, but major problem is mechanical, in Suncom base, It will wear out whatever you do. What I did is to use CH Flightstick or Combatstick base with Suncom grip. It can be easily done. You have to remove tailpiece, cut it, and secure it to CH base, like in this photo: Problem with ch bases is that they are "pincer type" and there is center "bump", Suncom has more warthog feel. What I want is to make exchangeable grips with single base. I used part of old Cougar gimbal, and tailpiece: And this sensor, that can be easily mounted inside CH gimbals. I also made this tailpiece for 3D print, it can be used as Suncom to TM base adapter. So far I finished F16 grip, next is F15 and in the end B8 grip, I work slowly but I'll post photos as soon as I'm done. If you don't want exchangeable grips the all you need is old gameport CH joystick, 2 sensors and leonardo pro micro board and that is it. Older CH joysticks are really cheap on eBay and are always in good condition. Or as Sokol1 said Baur BRD gimbal is best but probably more expensive solution. I just ordered larger Alps 5way switches. When they arrive I'll make something from them that looks like this: I'll put it on my Shapeways page as soon as I'm done.

Almost identical switch is in Thrustmaster X-fighter that I have. It is a 4way switch, piece of crap. I'll make some 3D prints in which those two other switches can be mounted. They are 5 way.

Yes, but planning is 99℅, with todays 3d software it is very easy. I really don't want 3d printer or cnc machine, I just need something printed from time to time.

OK, You have to measure somehow, but precisely.

You can print it on services like Shapeways. They print in nylon or stainless steel, problem with grip is that it takes a lot of time to draw one, switches must be printed, knobs, electronics etc. But if you have something drawn it is easy and cheap today.

Yes, but I need dimensions or phisical knob. I think it is knob or something simmilar.

Here are dimensions, if you need something else please measure and I'll make model.

That is great, thank you.

This was requested and I made it. This is TM tailpiece that is 13° angled and 15° offset to the left. For plastic prints For metal prints Probably something like this:

How to order this?

I am just starting to work on my gimbal, can you share your design?

Or you can try mmjoy2, it is awesome, you can do so much with it. I plan to add a few more toggles as shift switches, basically double or quadruple number of switches. It is very cheap, I don`t know if you are for DIY. If you can read basic schematics and do soldering than SFS is not difficult to mod. Only problem with SFS is that it is difficult to disasemble. If you made a mistake than it is problematic, but not imposible. I started with modding one year ago, and I learned so much. Now I cannot imagine that I`ll ever again buy joystick or throttle. I can built everything myself now. Just do it! Also consider GVL224 mechanics, it will be cheaper than fusba.

No.

I forgot to mention, box that GVL224 made is acrylic I think. It assembles like lego and is connected to the mechanics with 12 screws. Everything is very solid. I also got 2 sensors, magnets were installed on the mechanics. Also big thanks to Mega_Mozg_13 fro simHQ forums for his great work on MMJoy2. In future I plan to work on Joysticks. I have plans to make my own gimbal, with ball bearings, and hall sensors. I'll look for more switches for my grips. In the meantime I was again very lucky and found two of these: Otto U2-016 dual stage trigger. Its 150$ switch. I got 2 for 30. Again lucky. Tactile feel is completely different from cougar/warthog/flcs. There is resistance all the way, first click it is very easy to press, second stage needs a lot more force, and very loud click. Again it cannot be pressed by accident. I'll probably post a video on it. Actuator looks almost the same like one on cougar/flcs. This is probably same switch that is used on real sticks.

And photo session in the end.

OK, this will be a longer post. I finally, more or less, finished my SFS throttle. It was huge modification. I saw a few post from GVL224 an his throttle mechanics. Like HERE and HERE. So I contacted him and asked 100 questions, GVL224 was patient and answered to all of them, I had rough idea what to do and he said what can be done or what cannot be done. When we arranged everything I sent him grips from SFS throttle and he designed everything. Not many people would do it. When it was finished I payed and a few days latter throttle mechanics and new box arrived and it is great. Build quality is awesome, it is built from steel. I think mechanics will last for a lifetime. Thank you GVL224!!! I recommend this to everybody. That was I think in November. Then I took a quite a lot of time with planning, buying switches on eBay, designing new PCB and in the end I discovered 3D printing and that changed everything. That gave me a lot of flexibility. First I bought this Switch on eBay: That is Otto P8 switch. Something similar is used on real grips and throttles. It is fantastic, you cannot press this one by mistake. It takes a lot more force to actuate it. When you shake it nothing moves. I used it as a left multi function switch. Then I didn't like those momentary toggles. They were so cheap, levers were moving even if not actuated. Even worse than those crappy switches on TM Warthog throttle. So I found this: That is Honeywell 11TW1-7 toggle switch. As you can see they are expensive. I bought 10 for 8 Euros on ebay, I was lucky. This is perfect toggle switch, even better than OTTO, in my opinion. Honeywells have better tactile feel. They are waterproof and dust proof, all things that I don't need, but because of that they have rubber coat inside that gives some resistance while moving and great click. Also levers are completely stationary when you have fingers on them, no wobbling. Only problem was that levers were to long and a conical. I knew I'd have difficulties mounting knobs on them. First I thought of this: As you can see this is almost impossible without destroying a switch. I just couldn't hold lever in place while cutting threads. Then I simply cut them and decided to 3D print knobs. Knobs: Red one should be gray, but I just wanted to see how red prints look like. I used grub screws, M3 x3. And it worked, screws hold all knobs in place. I didn't cut CMD Dispenser Switch but used same method for fixing the knob. Then I was thinking about slew control and I decided to use PS3 thumb stick, it has hall sensors, so I made this assembly: All together: Right Multi-Function Switch, 4 way. I used old switch from old FLCS. I also made enclosure for it for easier mounting and knob also. Assembled: All fit together nicely. And last one Antenna Elevation Control. I saw this photo and a drawing of F15 throttle and saw that it uses knob similar or same as one on TQS. On the right is one I had from old TQS, throttle. On the left is 3D print. Potentiometer couldn't fit so I used Apem encoder. And last thing before assembly was a new PCB for Leonardo pro micro. Idesiged PCB in Eagle cad, and PCB was cnc routed. This way there is much less mess with wires. And it is very easy to disassemble everything if necessary. I'll split this post into two, it is too long.

Can you post photos please?

Antenna elevation knob is no longer in beta, I printed one for myself. Printed part is on the left, old knob from TM TQS throttle on the right.

I saw this post on SIMHQ forum. Then I made models for TM tailpiece that is 15 degrees offset to the left. Version for plastic print: Version for metal print: So far I sold 40 models, thank you for that. Please send photos and feedback of your prints.

I was working a little on warthog pinkie lever. I am trying to make something that wold fit Cougar or FLCS and that will look more like original design. This will need some testing and will take some time.

OK, I uploaded this part to Shapeways. As you can see there are problems with resolution, even on renderers. I am not familiar with STEP file, but I think perfect sphere will be hard to accomplish without pro tools. I can make this model available to public but I am not author, and I don't have permission from the author.

It can be done, I need drawings. But there could be problems with 3d printing, there is resolution in my drawing and in printer as well. Some DIYing would probably be necessary after production, like polishing. Just post drawing here.

That will last a few years.