531-Ghost

Here ya go... DCS World Su25T.rar

I have one using the: FS-PT-PP-TQ. I'll see if I can't up-load it to the CH-Hangar.

I find the toggles to the right (as stated) akward as heck to get to.

Even better: Ken: Will these programmable drivers also include the Proflight Panels, as well the rest of the Saitek Controllers so that they too can be programmed for flight simulations other than FSX and X Plane? Tim: Currently the software has been developed exclusively for the X-55 RHINO but we are planning on expanding to include all of the products in our Pro Flight range. :thumbup:

For those of you on the fence: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3921343/Saitek_X_55_RHINO_H_O_T_A_S_Re#Post3921343

Had a chance to interview with the Saitek Chanel Sales Manager on this product, read more (and more to come ;) ) HERE

Very nicely done!

I too used the PT PCB. The button under the mini-joystick is button 1 I wired it to the red round button on the left throttle. I used the X and Y axis of the mini-joystick as my left and right throttle using CH Products Throttle Quadrant POTs attached to the throttle levers. Using the PT PCB and the Suncom Throttles will leave you short one button but I''ll manage.

Oh, it's all CH under the hood...

:music_whistling:

So far the only sim they are plug and play (that I know of) is FSX.

Nicely done! Here's mine...

enique, et al, Sure you don't NEED Control Manager v4.55, BUT you wouldn't be getting all the programability using only Windoz drivers. I (being a SW and HW Beta Tester for CH Products) highly recommend using Control Manager 4.55 if for nothing else at least calibrating your devices. As for assigning your devices in this game (yes I typed game ;) ) THIS may help you out. As for other games, Control Manager does a great job of mapping your devices either as a single controller, or multiple ones to include the ProPedals ;) Most, if not all CH Products programming questions can be answered at Revvins site: www.ch-hangar.com :thumbup:

For all you CH Products fans I've put aircraft specific Command Files together for Flaming Cliffs 2 aircraft. You can get the files HERE. :thumbup:

+1 And then there's the Franken-Potato ;)

This should help...

Perhaps the SimSit?

THIS may help. Are you using a Command File?

Does the above script help?

script cms.b1 = [js4.a1 > 180] AND [js4.a2 < 180]; // Left Brake cms.b2 = [js4.a2 > 180] AND [js4.a1 < 180]; // Right Brake cms.b3 = [js4.a1 > 180] AND [js4.a2 > 180]; // Brakes endScript

:doh: Literally anything in any Windows based program/game. I can't see (from here) the video linked. However, in Control Manager, you can assign brakes to any axis or button. Heck, with a wee li'l script, you can assign left brakes to the left pedal, right brakes to the right pedal and both brakes to... both pedals :smilewink: (if available in the game).

Griffon, please don't think I was doubting you. I'm (by trade) an Aircraft Engine Tech Rep (T700-GE-Series Engines). I find that getting all the info and putting it all together (like a puzzle) I can figure out what may (or may not) be going on. However, your original post indicates you are using a Flightstick. The video looks like you are using a FighterStick. That said, it appears as though you are only pulling the stick aft and holding it in place. Are you pulling the stick all the way aft after calibration and applying the calibration settings in CM, and this is the result? Again, I have POTs, PM me your address.

Oh I know of Sokol1 at the CH-Hangar. Still, would like to know what your symptoms are? What do your axis do in the Control Manager Calibration screen/s? NOT in Windows Controller options/assignments. Could be nothing more than a re-scan in Control Manager.

Who do you think was the one and only hardware beta tester ;) Many, many, many, (did I say many?) lever actuations to the count of 120 per (quick time). Wore out eight of them before we had the right combination POTs and mold as well as spring tension.

Griffon, before we send things to/from. What are your symptoms? Could be as simple as a connection to the POT. Personally, it could be easily fixed if the connectors were soldered rather than push on connectors.