yipster

Very nice! I like it!

I have them programmed to my MFD Cougar contrast up/down buttons, but yes they go crazy when you press it. Half second press can go from A to M in the alphabet entry. :(

Took a test flight last night knowing to hold the trim button down to make flight attitude changes, it now all makes sense! lol First impression I have after a achieving a normal flight (without fighting the AP systems), it is soooo steady! Almost feels like a computer arcade game coming from a Huey. Just point it forward, hands off and go read the manual while it flies perfectly straight and level. Feels unreal.

OMG, I knew I was doing something wrong! I am used to the Huey where you get the chopper in position then press the trim button to centre the stick where you left it. :doh: Thanks to everyone for their great input and I'll start studying and flying it again. :thumbup:

Yes it is the release version that I'm flying. Any work around to get it working without installing the Open Beta?

Hi, I've had this module for some months now and have only found myself flying the KA50 for less than 5 hours. I'm just struggling to learn my way to fly it. I can call myself an advanced A10C driver and I'm fairly competent with the Huey as well. But I find the KA50 behaving absolutely different to anything that I've flown and it really confuses me a lot. The built in training packages doesn't seem to help much either. I'm after tips and easy start off missions to ease myself into learning this module. It seems like it has a lot of potential fun in it. :thumbup:

Hi, I've flown my first go at the Masada mission, I got to the orbit SP and I received a message about the trucks are moving. But after 20 minutes orbiting at the SP, they stayed in the same place? is there a bug? thanks

+1 What he said.

GA aircrafts don't get my vote. But, I'm voting for human controlled stations like the KC-135 boom operator or the AWACS with a funcitoning radio / IFF. Something like CA but support miliatry aircrafts. MQ9 reaper station for AFAC, anyone?

yes, same issue here. :(

I need some tips on proper dumb mk82 employment on targets at high elevations. I have been trying to perfect my skills with CCIP lately. I have no problem placing the bombs on target when they are around sea level (<3,000ft ASL). But when the terrain is mountainous (>8,000ft ASL), I have a lot of trouble getting the bombs on target. 1 - I can't get enough altitude between me and the target, the A10C just can't fly that fast and high when loaded. 2 - Even if I get the height required, after the first dive, it will take almost forever for the A10 to get back up there. 3 - On my ALT SCR, should I use radar or Delta? Baro simply fails to compute from my tries.

Hardest thing to learn is spotting a target that is not clearly marked by waypoint, mark or label is off. The TGP FLIR really annoys me. Enemy Within and Maple Flag campaigns are ones that truly test your knowledge of this plane.

Hi, I just got back into DCS after my old Radeon HD7870 broke down two months ago. I've replaced it with a brand new GTX 980Ti, hoping that it will run DCS at max settings. Well yes it does run smoothly but it does have some stuttering and strange graphic issue on the A10C TGP. Firstly, when I zoom with the rotary wheel on the TM Warthog, the frame rate drops down to a stuttering stop until I stop moving the wheel. It is not a nice, smooth transition in the zoom. Why's that? Secondly, I see some strange graphic artefacts on the TGP screens of the A-10C. It looks like reflection from rivers and some body of water where it should be dark or black. I will post a photo/screenshot of it later. Do anyone experience similar issue and know how to fix it? I had a look at other thread about stuttering on Nvidia cards, but doesn't seem to mention the zooming issue. Computer Specs: Intel i5 3570K 8GB RAM GTX 980 Ti Display: Samsung 34" ultrawide (3440 x 1440) + 2x 1024 x 768 MFD screens

Fighter pilot ejected, surrounded, called for CAS. Hog Flight: Sorry mate, gotta RTB. Birdstrike damage on my tail. You're on your own.

Bearfoot, Do a 3-5minutes flight and save the mission track, post it up here and we may be able to see what you've done exactly. While I've never used the products you own, I cannot comment on how to do the adjustment to make it right. It all comes to trial and error in finding the sweet spot that works for you. My old pedal had a bit of a spike noise (Logitech G940) in the input so it made flying the Huey very difficult. Not sure if you might have similar issues with the Saitek rudder.

May I ask what joystick and rudder combo you are using? Technique is very important, but feedback and feel on the control is as important on the Huey. You need to set up your controls where you get a very very smooth motion in the first 50-60% section of your moving area, try playing around with control axis curves. Spikes or non-linear stick/rudder movement will ruin the experience. If you are using a high end controller, then there is no need to do this. Like driving a car on your learners, most of us tend to intensely focus on the top of our steering wheel and right at the nose of the car. Did you remember grabbing that steering wheel so hard that you make a sweat mark on it? I did the same when learning the Huey, grabbing on to the stick so hard and stare at the ground. Ease off, relax and look far into the horizon or a building/structure you can use as a reference straight ahead. If you find that you are getting tired in concentrating too hard (getting worse at staying on one spot), land and take a minute or so of rest and stretch then try again. You'll see a much different result.

Looking very good so far! I'm experimenting with DCS BIOS and Arduino combo at the moment, have not got to the stage of custom PCB manufacturing yet. I think I am leaning towards getting couple of Arduino Mega's for its extra I/O capacity without mocking around with shift register and DCS BIOS. Q's; 1. Can I use a 3x LEDs which gives enough light to lightup my PCB? If you are using a Perspex panel on diffusion method, 3 LEDs should be enough for your current board. 2. Should i integrate LEDs into the PCB design? Perhaps integrate LED termination points but LED itself should be in the diffuser panel 3. Did u use a LED per switch/button/whatever? If not why not? How? That is a very power hungry solution and increases as number of switches increases. 4. Should i rather change to a Arduino Mega? If so, why? Depends on how much you want to play around with shift registers (I'm still learning to use it but find it quite confusing and challenging). Using the Mega will allow you use to use the extra I/O as native I/O without the need of a shift register. 5. How did u backlight each control in your cockpit? Did u use a dedicated Arduino to power the backlighting..? I would use a separate lighting circuit with a dedicated switch for 'interior lights'. Unless you want to use Arduino to detect the interior light switch from lua export. There are plenty of examples on this forum on how people did their backlighting. 6. other tips, or insights to share? Keep up the good work! Do small increments/prototypes instead of big changes. A lot of time when I try to do large implementation and it does not work out, I lose interest and leave it for a long time. I find it that I get a lot more sense of completion and success with small increments and keeps me interested in keep on building.

This is my current setup: I'm using a Samsung 34" curved S34E790 and I believe it is easier to use than multiple screens as your head movement required is actually reduced. Viewing angle is more comfortable in my opinion.

Right click on your desktop and select 'display settings'. Can you take a screenshot/photo of the display setting?

Link is fixed now. Or just search for "8inch LCD board" on eBay. Look for one that your graphic card supports

Hi, So I have been trying hard to get a screen added to my TM Cougar MFD setup. There were posts where people are using the Liliput 8” display for this setup. These are great, but I simply can’t find anywhere that sells them to Australia for a good price considering how low the AUD is right now. Buying 2x would easily cost me AU$400+, so I went with an alternative. My wife found this on eBay LCD board+screen for <AU$100 shipped. I think it is perfect for my situation, I have 1xDVI and 1HDMI free ports on my graphics card and no need for additional converters or cables. Cheaper alternatives are there with only 1x HDMI. Power supply was confirmed by the seller that it needs at least 1A 12Vdc supply. I happen to have few spare 1.5A adapters. Here is the build: What’s needed: double sided tape or a stick of ‘blu tack’ (really, this is very useful!) Assembly complete for the screen itself, just plugging in the ribbon cables Board testing, successful output of image to the screen. Stick the cable interface board behind the screen, making sure no bend or kink on the ribbon cable. Undo the ‘mounting plate’ behind the MFD. Stick the MFD to the screen and adjust screen according to your liking. Next, stick the mounting plate back onto the back of the screen, place the LVDS board on the base of the MFD base plate. Fix the MFD USB cable so it does not push the LVDS board. I have also used large blobs of blu tack on the mounting screw holes of the LVDS board to secure it on to the MFD base plate. Now the last piece of button PCB goes on to the locking pillars of the MFD, make sure you leave enough clearance for your monitor and power cable there. And the final result… I will then add a proper ABS plastic case to the LVDS board but right now the MFD looks almost complete as one single unit with its own display. After all tested to work with Windows, it is time to work around the DCS monitor setup lua file. When all works in harmony together, I’m so happy how well this worked out. I hope this would help people who are looking for a cost-effective solution to adding screens to the MFD Cougar. :pilotfly:

I have a similar setup as yours but mine worked on HDMI the first time. Have you checked that you are actually outputting to the screen? Go to screen setup in windows and make sure your screen is detected by your graphics card and you are extending your desktop to this screen. Edit: I used a 1.5A 12Vdc adapter, it works fine.

I think the A10C is the easiest plane to land in the whole DCS module library given the stability of the plane's design and slow approach speed required. I'd say landing the A10C in ILS and crosswind is easier than the Dora in calm weather. Back on topic, Remarkymarkable should keep trying with the given hints here. It sounded like you're in too fast for the approach. Maybe after a failed attempt, save the track file and upload it here, we could have a look at what you did wrong and give you some constructive feedback based on your actions. :) Good luck :)

You are supposed to turn pitot heating on when your aircraft is in motion (before take-off). And turn it off when your aircraft is stationary (landed and parked) or any lengthy period when aircraft is stationary on the ground. It should not overheat when you are flying. You will get in more trouble if you have it off during your flight, you'll start noticing variance of IAS until it actually reads 0 on a frozen pitot tube.

I recently changed from a 2x 24" setup to a single 34" ultrawide curved. The difference is not huge, but not having to move my head too much and also no screen borders between the two screens is very good IMO. I've got the Samsung S34E970, and the TM MFD Cougar just fits under the screen too. :thumbup: