Headwarp

Will try. That worked! I thought maybe he would still land on the FARP, but he landed in the spot I moved the arrow too, kept his engines running and embarked troops before taking off after I took off. Good call Dimitriov. Thanks everybody for the helpful replies.

Lol I'll give that a try... I thought the Chinook was the whole mission? I guess I can try to manually navigate it..was a little easier to do following the nook though.

Thanks. I'll check it out. The mission downloaded when I bought the Gazelle in 1.5.6 seemed to work fine.. but I'll give this one a shot and see how it goes. *edit* No dice. Mission performs exactly as the mission downloaded with the Gazelle module. I'm inclined to think it has to do with the Chinook's first waypoint where he's set to land. As soon as he touches down he seems to begin the shutdown process, where the Apache sits there with his engine running waiting for me to take off. The Chinook goes through his dialogue for troops to embark and saying he's going to take off but he never starts his engine back up. In 1.5.6. the Chinoook never stops his engine and is ready to go as soon as I lifted off and the troops loaded up. I'm almost wondering if the Polychop or ED included the fixed mission you pointed me to in their module package, as they're both showing the same behavior, and both apparently worked in 1.5.6, where the Chinook wants to shutdown when he touches down in 1.5.7. Not holding my breath or anything.. just letting it be known that since updating to 1.5.7. this mission isn't functioning correctly so hopefully maybe someone can get around to correcting it, whether it be the mission makers or the ED team having changed how a command works between updates. If I knew the mission editor well enough I'd try to fix it myself. :) But I haven't the slightest what to change.

Unrelated to the video drivers.. I experienced this with 2.1. Oddly enough I decided to let the program just run. It took about twenty minutes but it eventually loaded. The same thing happened with my first mission. After that it started loading at a closer to normal pace.

When the CH-47 comes in where it's supposed to allow troops to embark, it lands.. and shutsdown it's engine. I take off....troops embark but Sluggy or Soggy or whatever his callsign is doesn't start his engines again. The Apache never stops his engine, and takes off with me as soon as I take off. The chinook acts like he's done flying for the day. I tried editing the mission editor to change the "land" command on his first waypoint to "embark" but he puts down a bit far away from the FARP, no matter if I put the Embark WP right on top of the landing pad the troops run to. In my one attempt in 1.5.6, he never shut his engine down and took off immediately after the troops loaded up and I was able to escort to the target area no problems. Unsure what caused this behavior with the update to 1.5.7. Even if my switch to the embark command had gotten the troops loaded up, it's far beyond me to ensure that any triggers and scripts occur to get him back on mission. *edit* I didn't see the "Bugs and Problems" sub-section at the top when I posted this.. feel free to move as you feel necessary.

You don't need to use target for the FC3 modules >.< set the pinky paddle to a modifier... boom you have twice the amount of buttons. Here try this on for size. C:\Users\*pcname*\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input\F-15C\Joystick Select sensor modes I.E. Nav/BVR/Longitude/ are on the TMS switch up right down left and pinky paddle + up right down left change waypoints with dms left/right. Slew nub controls radar slew with y saturation lowered so it's not too fast, eac is landing gear. radar altimeter switch is electric power, engine oper + pinky paddle = engine start/stop, pinky paddle + apu switch = canopy Flap switch up = flaps up, flaps up/down = pinky paddle + flaps up, flaps landing or down is flaps down switch. Target lock is thumb hat on throttle IN, cannon is master mode, weapon change is pinky paddle + master mode. Trim is set to the trim hat, CMS hat controls CMS and pushing it in = ECM on/off, and pinky paddle + cms switch = radar modes. Nav lights are throttle pinky switch back, anti-collision = pinky paddle + pinky switch back, cockpit light = pinky switch forward, gear light = pinky paddle + pinky switch forward. Full turn for nosewheel = pinky button on stick. ENG L = weapons jettison, ENG R = fuel dump, ENG R + pinky paddle = jettison fuel tanks Airbrakes are on the airbrake switch. ah just go through the profile and press all the buttons with and without the pinky paddle.. it'll tell you what's what. I think boat switch forward is unassigned as I use it for my push to talk. I have curves set on the throttles so that the afterburner detent is max throttle until you lift the throttles and push forward to engage AB.. you might have to adjust those curves to suit your own needs as there's no guarantee our throttles are aligned exactly the same. I use pretty much the exact same control scheme for all fc3 modules. It's pretty intuitive when you get used to it and it becomes almost second nature if you ever have to rebind controls for some reason. I only use the keyboard for radio commands and maybe to look at the map/change views. Joystick - HOTAS Warthog {DC0BE8F0-1EC8-11e7-8001-444553540000}.diff.lua Throttle - HOTAS Warthog {5D4ACDF0-1B95-11e7-8006-444553540000}.diff.lua

Had a wild hair to give 1.5.7 another shot after taking advantage of that tempting sale. Report. Gazelle campaign Operation Dixmude runs great. Steady 65-75 fps sitting on the ground waiting to start up. 95-100 with a touch of altitude, capping out the refresh rate of my 100hz monitor. F15C-Beartrap campaign on the other hand, as soon as I start the first mission I receive constant frame dipping being described in this thread. I also expeirenced it on the second mission, and the first time it happened before reverted to 1.5.6 after some trouble shooting steps that restarted my campaings, I was on the mission after one that had you fly WP 4-11 low and slow through a valley to take out an A-50. (sorry for not being specific but i've flown the described mission so many times it's easier to remember the briefing) I'm silghtly confident that pretty much the entire f-15c beartrap campaign will demonstrate this stutter. I'm only hopeful that showing the gazelle mission working fine, vs the f-15c mission running not so well will help any investigation. Both before updating to 1.5.7 and after reverting back to 1.5.6, I had no issues like this whatsoever no matter what campaign I flew. Track and screenshot of current settings included. If you'd like a track of the gazelle mission let me know. I'm trying to figure out how to get it below 5mb >.< *edit* So far, this hasn't happened on any of the stock single player missions/campaigns I've played for the Ka-50, Gazelle, Viggen. Only the F-15C Beartrap Campaign. I'm sure I will eventually hop in some of the other FC3 campaigns and check them out.. as well as maybe test the F-15 in some of the non campaign missions or on a map by itself. I'll probably end up checking out all of my modules and try them out in various missions/campaigns to see if it's anywhere else. **edit** - have jumped into the first mission of several campaigns for su-27, a-10c, mig-29s just to sit on the runway to see what happens. It all runs smooth, even when I'm on the ground and only getting 50-60 fps it's steady and smooth, although that only happened to me in the a-10c GH+CA campaign sitting parked when I looked right at a group of vehicles. . I also tested one of the stock F-15c missions that is not a part of the Beartrap campaign and it ran fine too. So far personally I'm only running into this on the various missions of the F-15C Beartrap campaign I've experienced in 1.5.7. The one f-15c beartrap mission I flew in entirety in 1.5.7, the entire mission performed this way, not just sitting on the tarmac. I don't know if that excludes it from being in range of any certain units.. but considering everything seems normal in pretty much every other mission I've played, whatever's causing this seems to be common in the F-15C campaign. Which has me curious what units or scripts the f-15c campaign has that none of the other stock campaigns seem to include. More digging than I'd like to do at the moment however. f-15cbeartrap.trk

Lol you missed the part where I said it was happening with my entire hand Duke.. and again that i was saying I could do so with one finger after I greased it. Minimal pressure means the least amount of pressure required to move the stick at all..regardless of how many fingers or what grip used. And when that required pressure isn't consistant and the stick is getting stuck every few mm requiring more force to move it again, resulting in overshooting your intended angle as you're using more pressure than should be required to simply move the stick .. that is indeed a problem in the eyes of many experienced simmers. And again.. there are plenty of posters on the forums who disagree with you. But I'm done with it man.. I never really cared about your personal experience and thought on the product nor you mine. I would have nothing to say to you if your had just stuck to your own experience. Fact is you got rude. I got rude. I've added an apology for that in my last response to you, admittedly having let myself get a little carried away. You would be singing a different tune if you'd had your hand on my warthog. Dburne has commented that he too was just like you.. didn't see what the fuss was about until he got ahold of a stick that had bad stiction.. there are tons of forum posts of it. You seem to not be "experiencing a problem".. and do not have the patience to read replies pointing out that YMMV (YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY). A little research might make you feel a little lucky. Multiple youtube videos..multiple forum posts not only in the ED forums that say hey "there's a problem" and I'd like to believe that all of those posters are honestly glad you're not experiencing it. I personally hope everbody has as good an experience. But from where I've been.. the things I've read.. not everybody is. Type "Warthog Stiction" in google and just look at all those results that pop up. You aren't one of those people. Good on you! TM didn't leave a bad taste in your mouth. There are times where you need to make very fine movements when flying various sims.. my stick didn't allow it. I corrected that..and am pleased with the result.. albeit not the experience causing me to feel the need to do so. I'm completely on the side that you are entitled to your own experience and opinion. But in the future, unless you were in my shoes having the exact experience I had, please refrain from discrediting me and MY experiences when you're probably halfway across the country, or even world. They were made by the same people but we're holding different sticks. If you don't have the attention span to read and comprehend what's being said just stick to your own experiences rather than discredit a fellow simmer for work you've never even attempted to do yourself, keep your comments to what you know and leave your assumptions out of it. At least try to.. and again. I'm sorry for unloading on you. Peace pipe bro. There's no good to be had from trying to invalidate peoples negative experiences with a product. Even if you haven't had those same negative experiences yourself. Unless you're a Thrustmaster employee. Then your comments make total sense. I'm not trying to invalidate that you've had an enjoyable experience since purchasing your Warthog. But your comments about me were uncalled for.. and the fact that you're still on about how your stick is fine so mine should have been too wouldn't be, in my opinion, a good look on anybody. I won't even claim that I was justified in firing back.. but I do think you're missing plenty of information and barking up the wrong tree at this point. I know I am.. I don't owe you further explanation. The evidence that "there is a problem" exists.. if someone who reads this thread is caught unaware because BigDuke thinks I'm exaggerating and crazy.. then it's on them. And hopefully it's a little easier for them to solve than it was for me. Hopefully.. they don't have an issue in the first place. But it can happen. I would not tell anyone to buy or not to buy any given item they're considering. The most I would do is share my experiences with it..which might include a little research on the subject, including potential mishaps. sze5003 - You'll know if it ever becomes something you need to worry about. I was literally fighting my stick for small axis corrections while flying. Heli's were impossible to fly smoothly and I didn't much enjoy it when trying to aim in a prop plane either. Faster movement of the stick felt smooth.. it was just when moving it slowly, and trying to make small adjustments. That's when you could feel the parts inside the gimbal almost literally grab on to eachother. Both axes of my stick were that bad.. if the Y axis had been smooth but not X I might have held off on taking it apart for awhile longer. Could still be problematic in a heli sim, but in fixed wings the accuracy of my roll axis is not what determines my ability to line up a shot. Now that it's greased I can fly as gently as I want. If you're adamant about the disassembly process, there are guides out there, even ones that will help you avoid snapping a wire like I did. But it's up to you whether you really feel like you need it or not. And there's no shame in getting help from someone who's more of a handyman.

Just try to move the stick as slowly as you can..with only as much force as it takes to get it moving initially along both axes.. If you have issues it will become apparent then. For me the stick would literally stop moving until I added more pressure and it was across the entirity of the axes, and the state of the balljoint when I opened it made me wonder why it was only with minimal pressure. If it doesn't want to move smoothly across the entire axis, adding/replacing grease to all moving parts might be the fix for you. Others have felt it necessary to sand particular pieces and have posted videos on how to do so, and there is at least one person who visits these forums who has offered to help people who don't feel comfortable doing so themselves, although you have to ship the base to him. Other people suggest adding an extension to alleviate symptoms.. personally I'm not interested in making the thing bigger and enjoy the stock spring strength. In a lot of cases you may not need that extra fine control that stiction might prevent.. but I actually really like the stick now that it functions the way it should. P.S. manufacturer's warranties can be pretty solid. Newegg sent me a borked 980 Ti when I ordered mine.. EVGA sent me a prepaid shipping label and had me a working 980ti within like a week and a half. In hindsight.. I should have returned it to newegg rather than register the defective card.. it caused me to be just outside of their step-up program.. I'd have a 1080 if I had gone about it differently. More hindsight.. I should have just waited for pascal. my 680 FTW 4gb was still holding its own. But - the 980TI has and will serve me well for some time. Not sweating it too much that I jumped the gun.

I'm not overly interested in your opinion that because I broke a wire which isn't hard to do inside the stick and had to fix a problem that presented itself out of the box that I'm "incapable". Coming from a guy who didn't even know what signs to look for when having concerns about the quality of a joystick. Especially now, considering you just backtracked on your statement of "Mine was fine from day one!". Blatent fanboyism if you ask me. Good luck if you ever decide to open your stick and grease it.. but.. considering you haven't, and are planning to treat the symptom rather than hit it head on and can't handle a response to your rather rude statement about me, I'll refrain from using a four letter word followed by "you"and elaborate a bit more for the sake of other users of these forums, even if you do kind of deserve it. My lack of capability fixed Thrustmaster's defect.. they aren't beyond fault.. and neither are you. What's that? You're using other people's experiences to determine it's easier to buy an extension than open it up and grease it yourself? It happened with minimal pressure, entire hand on stick..I.E. barely pulling the stick for small adjustments in pitch or roll. The one finger statement was showing that the stiction was gone after going in and taking care of the issue myself. When I opened it up some of the moving parts had no lube at all.. that's not maintenance.. that's solving neglect in the manufacturing process and has nothing to do with with my capabilities.. especially considering I fixed it, when there is no justifiable reason why someone should have any issues whatsoever with an item donning such a high pricetag OUT OF THE BOX... which says more about the manufacturer's current capabilities than mine. The OP can find more examples similar to mine to get an idea what to look for regarding his latest purchase.. and has an idea on what parts to be careful with. You on the other hand? You're just pretty rude. Call it whining. From my standpoint? I used sarcasm and actual experience and knowledge to point out to you that you're rude and apparently ready to stand up and defend a product's defect defending your favorite expensive toy. The fact that I'm not alone in these concerns as outlined by MANY posts in these forums, in SimHQ forums, IL-2 forums..basically all over the simming community... tends to show that it can be a legitimate concern to look out for and that TM is likely doing something wrong that is causing this to be an issue for so many of their customers and their brand new stick. I hope the OP's new purchase serves him well.. I really do. But there are enough occurrences that his pre-purchase concerns have merit, and likely that should his stick show problems OUT OF THE BOX he should return it for hopefully a better unit that doesn't need taking apart the first day he uses it. You seem pretty incapable of offering good advice or reading comprehension. Or realizing when you were being a bit of a donkey, much to my own woe I am being myself right now having been sucked into your logic. At least I know I'm being insulting right now.. guess that's one more capability I have that you don't. I also know how to apologize when I've put my foot in my mouth.. but in this case, I'm simply trying to help you remove your foot from your mouth. Should you apologize.. I might respond to your next post a bit more kindly.. but as it stands.. there's not really much you have to say that I think you're capable enough for it to be worth the effort to read or reply to. Ermergerd post is too long.. reading is hard. Man typing 90-120 wpm is a curse.. you think I haven't been calm while typing any of this which I actually find pretty amusing.. and you're kind of the joke. To the OP and the rest of this thread - I'm sorry this guy chose to judge me incapable based on a thread where I attempted and successfully fixed issues with the very stick the OP is asking about. I'm sorry I didn't just let it go. But I won't have my character attacked by someone who clearly doesn't accept that other people may have different experiences than his own or that mistakes are a part of human nature and not something he or anyone is above, including Thrustmaster. Not without pointing out to him and anybody potentially listening to him on this particular subject that he certainly isn't putting in any of the work to say how tedious or unpleasant the task of repairing it can be. Hence the jump from "Mine is fine!" to "mine has stiction!" Which personally begs the question.. does this guy fly in situations where smooth small movements of the stick on the x or y access are necessary? Does he fly by yanking the stick all over the place at all times irregardless of the effect it has on his energy state in combat situations? Finding manufacturing defects in expensive gaming peripherals and finding concern with the fact is normal, and in my opinion something consumers shouldn't just sit down and take. You deserve nothing but excellence with a joystick carrying this pricetag. I hope the OP at least takes from this experience knowledge of what symptoms to look for so he can make a proper decision what to do about it. If you find issues and choose "Oh it's cool thrustmaster, don't sweat it. I still love you, it's not your fault".. all the power to you.. but I'd avoid casting negative opinions about people who chose to do something about it where you wouldn't. I'm not replying further to this guy.. OP you have my experience. I can tell you I'm not alone in the experience. Some people have been lucky where I wasn't. Hopefully you will be too considering you already made the purchase. I'm also not alone in finding a broken wire after the regreasing process that I was able to avoid a second time. Heck I'm pretty sure I've read from posters who opened it up wondering why their buttons weren't working to find a din ribbon broken away from the female ps2 connection. But if there's any stiction I'd call TM's toll free support number and see about getting a replacement while it's still considered a new purchase, and if they insist you grease it up, return it to the retailer and maybe buy one from a place with optimal storage conditions. Unless you want to open it up.. which isn't overly difficult.. just be careful of a few details or you might need to also invest in a soldering iron and some practice using it. There's also the option of finding the guy in these forums who offers to grease and correct manufacturing faults for his fellow simmers. If you send me a PM i can ask my buddy how to get in touch with him, although I'm pretty sure he shouldn't be overly difficult to find with a bit of googling. I'm quite certain I stumbled over his post when I first noticed my joystick had stiction problems, about a year ago when I first started using it. My concerns with opening my stick were well founded.. it took more risk and effort than I believe should be necessary.. I have high..erm.. I mean appropriate standards for toys that cost several hundred dollars. If you really need me to I can start digging up several of the posts about the TM Warthog.. backing my words up demonstrating informative opinion rather than a generalized sweeping judgement of some person I've never met but thinks he knows me enough to judge my competence based on a forum post. I admittedly sunk lower than his level making my points.. but feel pretty correct in the lack of thoughtfulness occurring in that mind with statements like "Long post, whiny." as if less than a page of reading material is beyond his comprehension while including no research or informed discussion other than his own experience that he's content with the product he received. You might luck out. You might not. Hope you do. Normally I would try not to assume so much about someone I've never met or spoken to personally.. but I also don't take kindly to rude gestures that ignore tons of other evidence out there that you might want to check a few things when you get your new stick and be aware of what can go wrong in the process. But you can listen to who you want.. someone that acts as if a thought that exceeds 160 characters is too much to read and doesn't have any compelling argument to reinforce his opinion.. or the various people on these forums who have gone through the trouble of actually looking at the insides of their sticks.. done some research and offering you an opinion developed from not only his own experiences, but the others suffering the same issues, which you might be lucky enough to not be included in that statistic. If I wasn't alone.. I'd probably be saying "Oh just bad luck.. I got a lemon".. but finding a problem that led me to research that shows me I'm very much not alone regarding WH Stiction.. you better believe the email I sent Thrustmaster was longer and more informative than anything I've ever posted in a forum. Including examples of other technology doing it better, outlining higher standards and expectations wanting newer products to have design improvements for not just me, but ANYONE willling to drop this amount of money on what is essentially a grown person's toy, including current warthog users.. even this guy who doesn't think he deserves better. *post edit* I'll make the first step towards embracing this community that I'd like to see become something more people become interested in, and also continue to find high quality tools to enjoy it with. I'm not going to take back the things I've typed above.. as I feel I had a point and am done thinking about this.. if a moderator feels the need to *snip* I won't take offense to it, and do apologize for causing you the effort. BigDuke.. I'm sorry for my reaction to the things you said about me and your continued attempt to invalidate my experience. It was just as rude.. and I could have made the same points without making brash assumptions about you as a person based on your perspective of my experience with the TM Warthog. I don't wish hard feelings. We have something in common besides being WH owners albeit different experiences. We like to sim. This probably wont' be the last time I show my disdain for the experience I paid what to many people is a large sum of money for something that just didn't meet up with the expectations of what I was paying for until I took the steps to fix it. You got a stick and you felt okay with its performance. Many people have and it's just as valid an opinion. Some of us weren't so lucky, and our experiences are also just as valid. Some of my personal frustration with this experience stems with what seems like a decline in quality standards in the general business/consumer arrangement in this day and age. I shared an experience. I'm not paid to write user reviews. And believe it or not I've owned joysticks and other things that never required any maintenance on my part.. including ones priced low enough that a mishap with it wouldn't phase me if I had to buy another..including ones I've had to treat gently because my younger years of playing Descent taught me what poor stick control and roughness can do. Regardless.. I respect that you'd apparently take no displeasure if the tables were reversed and you found something that you didn't like about your $400-500 product. And I'd appreciate it if you'd respect the fact, that having a jerky stick was no fault of my own and I did find some displeasure in having to correct it myself. "Mine works fine from day one" would have been sufficient.. telling someone I must be "incapable" is an entirely different matter..especially concerning a common discussion in the pc flight simming world. Which might help to explain the redundancy of me having a bit of fun returning the blow. I will own my part in this. In the end we'll both get over it and move on.. but I'd rather do so with a "handshake". There's no telling where we might run into each other in the future both in multiplayer and on the forums. I think the bottom line is most of us just want to plug in, fly and have fun. I'm under no obligation to summarize my opinions.. and you're under no obligation to read something you feel is too long. But neither of us should be invalidating the other. And I don't feel either of us is necessarily correct in our assumptions of one another.

Bricked throttle just from unplugging from one machine into another? Is the old machine still put together or is it in pieces now? considering you bought a "maingear" rig I assume that included a new case and everything. Is it possible to see if the old machine still allows it to function? I'm just hopeful it's something simple like "a usb hub was disabled in bios" or "I didn't install my usb 3 driver" or something like that. It's actually not hard to take the two baseplates off the bottom and take a peak inside and see if there are any obvious loose connections.. check that any connectors are securely plugged into the circuit board..maybe look for a broken or loose wire. If you do find a loose connection that couldn't be fixed with a soldering iron or simply sicuring the connection to the circuit board.. take a picture of it and send it to TM.. they might have replacement parts. They might not. They also have a toll free number you can call for an immediate response to your issue. Can be found on their website. I got a replacement female ps2/din ribbon for my stick and soldered it in myself.. was $9 plus shipping... but they ended up having to order the part from France so it took two weeks to get there. Either way, if plugging it in to the old machine still shows no functionality, it's worth at least opening it up..it's only a few screws on the bottom, and it's easy to replace the baseplate.

The question is should I have had to take my $500 joystick apart in the first place? (ok ok..i'm including shipping and exaggerating very slightly.. and talking only the stick.. it's not that price but still.. a very expensive stick.) No.. i shouldn't have. My stick is working fine now by the way.. but i wouldn't have had the problem in the first place if TM had quality control worth a crap. THere was no lube on the pegs in the balljoint and the grease they used had turned into sticky slop, that clinged to the material I wiped it away with. Stiction is pretty common in the warthog. I'm glad your stick has been fine from day one but lol many peoples have not been. Mine was showing stiction OUT OF THE BOX. YOu know who doesn't sound very capable to me? A company selling a $500 product that needs your average consumer to take it apart and correct their manufacturing flaws. Last I checked it didn't take an engineering or technician's degree to be a consumer expecting a product representing the pricetag. If the product or manufacturing process WEREN'T faulty.. all any consumer would have to do is plug the thing in and have FUN. Instead.. there are tons of forum posts similar to my experience throughout the simming world. Instead you have "Oh just buy or make an aftermarket extension!" Next time you try to discredit someone because your experience didn't prove to be a hassle like theirs maybe you should think twice on it. Guess what else I am not? Not the first person to open their warthog and find broken wires. Yep.. I broke one thin little wire that wasn't up along the side of the sensor with the rest of the ribbon.. because you know.. I have xray vision and was supposed to see it when replacing the part of the gimbal holding the sensor, as if that weren't an accident waiting to happen.. or as if there aren't other forum posts out there where people found their ribbon snapped. I hope the OP enjoys his new stick.. but be aware.. if your stick is fighting you with minimal pressure and stopping every MM of movement.. you might have to grease the sucker up..and be careful of their design of feeding the wires through the connecting parts of the gimbal. Pull that ribbon up and make sure it's on the side when you put it back together. And if you want to really clean it with degreaser? Hope you have at least some knowledge of soldering, as the ground wire soldered to the circuit board will keep you from separating each peace of the gimbal for a thorough cleaning, or at least make it that much more tedious as you dance around it trying not to break a wire. Hopefully - you won't have to.. but seems a lot of people have to. A guy I fly with bought one about a month and a half ago and within weeks said he noticed stiction.. he actually sent it to someone who repairs them that is a part of this simming community (not a TM employee) and the guy said it was the second worst warthog he'd ever worked on. My friend is currently flying with a Logitech extreme 3d pro waiting on it to be shipped back to him. The balljoint itself in my stick had no smooth movement until after *I* greased it up. I was surprised it was only minimal pressure showing the signs, the strength of the spring was masking it. It feels great when it's lubed, and nobody is really putting out a throttle that is as functional as what comes with the WH package other than saitek.. and I wouldn't wish newer saitek products on anyone. THe hog can at least be fixed without worrying about cheap plastic threads coming with the screws albeit tedious if you mess up. Hoping for the best that you don't end up having to take the stick base apart any time soon.. but you should see how the stick moves using minimal pressure to move it to decide if you will or not. After greasing I can rest my hand on my keyboard tray and move the stick with one finger, slow as I want to without it catching. Prior to that any "Fine" adjustments were near impossible. And quite frankly..having solved my stick's issues with my own handy work.. I'd say I feel a little more capable than your average gamer looking to buy a gaming peripheral and game.. rather than buy a gaming peripheral that turns into the hobby of DIY projects. "Mine has been fine from day one" .. so then.. you've never taken it apart and had to deal with any of this right? It was totally my lack of capability that made the stupid thing have a defect off the shelf anyway right? I'm only thankful I didn't see any reason to bust out the sandpaper as has been shown in other videos of disassembly in these forums. The general consensus from anyone who's had issues with their WH stick is that the gimbal is the weakest part of the entire design. If you have concerns that's generally what to look for.. but hopefully you end up lucky like this guy who seems to believe that a broken wire resulting from taking apart a joystick showing problems is a "lack of capability" to speak on the subject.. because his is just fine..from the day he got it. Because manufacturers don't ever make mistakes and therefore are capable where I am not because I am a consumer and I made a mistake fixing their defect. That again, I fixed myself. Aside from that? Great stick. Lots of buttons. Feels great in the hands, the trigger pull is heavy and therefore intentional. I actually enjoy the tension and center detent. A dream to fly the a-10c with.. great for a sim like Faclon BMS as well and it's my go to stick for any of the FC3 modules, as well as Elite Dangerous. I still use a near two decade old msffb2 that's likely never been taken apart at all and functions flawlessly for helis and prop planes.. as I don't require as many buttons, and the force feedback is lovely in those situations especially. But 15+ years.. still working fine.. built like a tank... yet plastic, ahead of its time STILL when it was discontinued.. that retailed for $90.. Standards have sure changed.

G-sync was not working correctly for me.. indicated by my frames per second reporting different numbers than my refresh rates, and by the framerate exceeding my monitor's 100hz refresh rate with v-sync disabled. That may not be the ONLY issue... but at least for me on my Acer x34 g-sync was not functioning correctly in 1.5.7 On another note..surprise surprise, reverting to 1.5.6.5199, sitting on the runway in my F-15c with the high preset, msaa lowered to 4x, AF to 8x, water and shadows to medium and heat blur off, everything else on the high setting.. I'm sitting on the runway getting a stable 99-100fps. Hey look at that V-sync is disabled too, and my ingame fps counter matches up with my monitor's refresh rate counter. So again.. 1.5.6. runs fine.. 1.5.7 runs like crap. My machine is not the culprit. Considering a lot of people seem to have issues with the latest updates to 2.1 as well where many people reported 2.0 running great for them.. my guess is ED has some digging to do to figure out what they're doing in their latest updates that are killing performance for many (not all) users. *edit* stand corrected.. just the one campaign causing fps hits and g-sync to not be "syncing" anytime for me personally

As many AI as there are in the F-15C Bear Trap campaign, which ran fine in the previous version.. as I'm about to roll back so I can do so. Thanks for the tip.

I run in windows 10 64bit.. g-sync is enabled in both windowed and fullscreen mode. This isn't on my end... this is because of the latest update. When the game WAS functioning correctly.. and other games do function correctly, including a sim from another small team of developers... and ED releases a patch where things begin to not function correctly even if it might be "fine" for you... perhaps jumping to the conclusion that this is user error isn't the right approach. I understand you are trying to help.. But I've been building my own pc's and working with them since I was a child. My drivers are up to date.. my usb devices and harddrives are set to never power down while my machine is running... all of my drivers are the latest drivers for my hardware.. my system is set to high performance in power options, and so is my video card. I know how to setup nvidia control panel with each driver update. The problem only occurs with the latest update to DCS.. when the previous version was lovely. Thanks but no thanks.

1.5.6 ran nice.. this patch.. g-sync isn't functioning correctly for me..with v-sync off my fps will go up to 120ish, enabling v-sync limits my fps to 99.5 with my 100hz monitor but, while msi afterburner reports fps dips sitting still, from 99-75, my monitor's refresh rate is dropping from 100hz to 30hz to 100 hz to 1 hz to 100 hz to 23 htz.. 1.5.6 was running fine.. on highest settings with civ traffic turned off and shadows at mediumi MAYBE dropped to 35-40 fps low near active airfields at 3440x1440 but g-sync worked and it was consistant not jumping all over the place..and once I was in the air i was getting a steady 85-100 fps. NOW even when in flight in the air, it's like it's constantly taking frame hits every other second and causing my monitors refresh rate to go from 100hz to 30hz every half a second and a short pause as if I were hitting pause for 1/10th of a second every other second. D3D in msi afterburner only showing a drop to 75 fps. That's not how g-sync is supposed to work. I've lowered water detail, shadows set to flat, no lens effects, no hdr, msaa 2x, AF 8x. A day or two ago I was flying with maxed preload radius and max clutter/trees and everything but civ traffic set to high (msaa 4x, heat blur off) and though it caused an fps hit near the ground it was still playable and smooth, and again I was getting 70-100fps in the air, and I'd only see "70" when looking around Changing none of these options seems to fix the performance in 1.5.7 I've run repair.. I've deleted dcs from saved games.. the only other time I've seen anything similar to this was on a mission I created in 2.1 on normandy. I haven't ever experienced anything like this in 1.5 How do I roll back to 1.5.6? Because the f-15c campaign is not enjoyable with the game running like this. How did this make it to stable release? *EDIT* 7-16-2017 After some experimentation.. I can see how this made it to stable release.. I'm only experiencing the issue flying missions in the F-15C Beartrap campaign. Have not run into the issue in any other stock campaign/module. The game runs smooth even with the stand alone f-15c missions. And to be fair... I wanted to fly my F-15c because I had just fixed my Warthog. I apologize for being slightly hot headed.. I'm aware my attitude could have been better. - Looking forward to a fix. Don't take my frustration as a lack of appreciation for the existence of a sim like DCS.. albeit.. I'm eagerly awaiting the day Cacausus and all the 1.5 content makes its way over to 2.X. You devs are working too hard. <3 Hardware - i5 2500k @4.5 ghz, 16mb DDR3 1600mhz, kingston ssd boot drive, 2 pny ssd's for gaming and storage, GTX 980 TI

Wow this thread has grown since I posted it.. sorry I've not been around to read up. The female din connector I needed wasn't in stock in the U.S., so they shipped it from France and it took two weeks to get here. It showed up a few days ago, and I went out and bought a cheap 25w soldering iron and went to to town. With much cursing, and about 8 burns on the hand not holding the iron.. I've managed to get everything back together. I still have the Molykote 44 that I originally greased it with on it.. didn't bother regreasing a second time. Presently - no stiction *yay* It wasn't overly difficult, though I struggled a bit because this is my first soldering job ever.. I usually take stuff to my dad who knows more about this kind of stuff. I'm not sure if I did something wrong, but the stick was off center when I plugged it in. I found a copy of the TM calibration tool v1.13 on some forums somewhere and it's centered and working again. If I end up having to take this thing apart again, I have to say I'd be tempted to throw this hunk of metal through a corporate window... but that's just the frustration of having to go through this speaking, and not a real threat. The hardest part was attaching the groundwire to the circuit board.. I had taken most of the solder off when I deattached the old one.. and I couldn't heat up the board enough to make the solder stick to it.. when i finally managed doing so I was just happy to close it back up and test it out. I didn't use any hotglue as they sent me another female PS2 connector so I just cut the wires from the old one and left the ends attached for a guide on what to solder where. There was already solder on the pegs I needed to attach the wires to on the new female ps2 connection.. so that went alot easier than I thought it would. The connections felt strong enough. Stick feels great without any stiction..all buttons are functional and I made sure all the wires were to the side this time when reassembling the gimbal. Molykote 44 seems to be doing nicely.. might end up ordering some of that nyogel if it's still available when I have some $$ to spare..but, I also might not, as the molykote 44 feels great and I really don't want to take this stupid thing apart again.. The pegs holding the ball inside weren't lubed at all when i initially took it apart.. so I think lubing them up made the biggest difference. My Warthog is functional, and smooth as butter at the moment.. and I'm pleased with myself for having fixed it with my own elbow grease.. for the life of me.. I hope they rethink the design of the gimbal.. it's great that most of the stick is metal, and can be taken apart.. but... the way the wires feed through everything had me thinking "WHY?!?!?!" the whole time I was trying to solder everything back together. At least now the stick feels like it should've when I took it out of the box over a year ago.

And I killed the rest of the blue units...recorded a video and "landed" Just wait til it get's close lol.

I scoured the internet for Nyogel 767a. The stuff is in stock NO where. But my testing so far the molykote 44 seems to work well. I applied it generously to the pegs and the inside of the outer ball and the routing piece, the main spring and the 4 posts with smaller springs..kind of mushy and slippery.. where just running tissue wiping up the grease TM used felt stiff and sticky. Soldering and hot glue are no biggie.. it's just ensuring I don't damage the wires in the future. Wondering if a layer of electric tape would stop it from fitting through the hole above the magnet. Only one of the 5 wires got cut. I can't say what caused it, but I'm going to be extra careful with the new one. The wire is pretty much cut in half, and I tried to cut some plastic off the ends to splice them but I don't have proper wire tools at home so it just made them shorter. I can borrow or buy that along with the soldering iron. I at least had a family member that showed me the basics of soldering.. and could probably turn to if i needed it. Thanks for the bit about the protection ring. I'll look into fashioning something for that regard. Shouldn't be too difficult to solder 5 wires.. I may even replace the lone black wire as the insulation seems to have taken some damage (that much was true already when i opened it) My guess would be wiring issues.. unfortunate that its happening in both the stick AND throttle.

Admittedly *I* somehow broke the wire... but I shouldn't have had to go inside her in the first place. Aside from the grease being kind of sticky rather than slippery, the pegs holding the inner part of the gimbal in were likely not even lubricated because moving that piece felt awful before I popped them out and lubed them up. (maybe this is where I broke the ribbon? idk) The lube job I did felt great... kind of can't wait for TM to process the order for the part so I can get it back together just to see how it feels in action. I ordered mine from Newegg, and maybe it had been sitting on the shelf in conditions not good for whatever grease they used I have no idea.. I probably should've returned it when I got it, but I didn't and likely wouldn't have ended up ordering another. There are a lot of things to like about the WH, between it and it's throttle not much can compete with the amount of buttons available, and despite the stiction - the amount of tension and the feel of the stick feels right, even better once properly lubricated. At the pricepoint though, I am a bit discontented by the fact that it required this much effort to get there. And with the showing of the fa-18 stick, I truly hope there's room for them to improve on the design of the gimbal and still make it compatible with the cougar/wh sticks, and even in the same cylinder base as I have something cut out for just that to mount it center stick. or AT LEAST use a higher quality lubricant that won't turn into rubber cement given enough time. Thanks for chiming in on my rant. If I can manage getting it back together and working properly, I'm sure I'll come back and say I love the stick, being of metal construction I'm sure I could take it apart and put it together many times without issues other than the risk of breaking wires, which is at least something that can be fixed. I've been dreading doing this since I bought it.

So, my TM Warthog stick presented the "stiction" issue out of the box and I was always too scared to take it apart and regrease it. And apparently my fears were warranted. After more than a year of owning it, I decided to take the thing apart. The grease they used in the factory was STICKY and hard to remove. It was pretty much immediately apparent why my stick was sticking in certain spots. So I wiped as much of the crap out as I could, and regreased ALL moving parts including the main large spring with Molykote 44 medium and put it back together. It's smooth as butter. No sticking anywhere. Finally minimal pressure isn't gripping and stopping along the axes. Until I get to the properties in windows and pulling the trigger lights up every button, and none of the other buttons are functioning. So I take it back apart and see that the brown wire coming from the female ps2 connection is broken in half. I called TM support and apparently they have the female DIN ribbon in stock and they are going to ship it out to me. Going to cost me $20 for parts and shipping and that isn't horrible. Now I have to solder and hope I don't break this ribbon when I reassemble.. currently all my parts are in ziplock bags to keep dust away. Once I have it all put back together and working correctly, I'm sure it will finally be "the best stick" currently in mass production and available to order from most stores.. but the process has left a bad taste in my mouth.. and I think maybe Thrustmaster could've used a better lubricant to begin with. Pardon me while I go purchase a soldering iron and await confirmation of my order for a replacement part. Thankfully, I have a 20 year old MSFFB2 that was built like a tank and still works like a charm and I only use the hog for the a-10c and FC3 jets and Falcon BMS. I miss you being in the joystick business Microsoft. I'm sure I'll love it when i have it working again minus the stiction.. but right now I feel a little burnt and needed to vent such somewhere. Maybe I should ship the remainder of my Molykote to TM, as a hint that the grease they use in the manufacturing process is lacking. End Rant.

Decided to update in a new reply rather than continue to edit my last one and potentially be confusing. So with these current settings I'm topping out at abot 5930 VRAM usage even when flying over the largest of cities, and so far no hiccups.. but that's with only about 5-10 minutes of testing. Not much noticable difference between preload radius slider being maxed and dropping it to less than 30k. I will say, the view distance is noticable, as prior to reducing it from high I could see buildings from other cities further away while flying over larger cities and this doesn't seem to be the case. In Nvidia Control Panel 3d settings for DCS.exe I have the following: Anisotropic filtering - App Controlled FXAA - On Gamma Correction - Off Antialiasing - Mode - App controlled Transparency - 2x(supersample) (I might see how it goes turning this off to see if I can further reduce ram usage and perhaps get some visability range back) Max Pre Rendered Frames - 1 Monitor Tech - G-SYNC MFAA - On Single Display performance mode, Optimize for Compute - off Prefer Maximum Performance Highest available refresh rate Shader Cache - On Texture Filtering - Anisotropic sample - On Negative LOD bias - Clamp Quality - Performance Trilinear Optimization - Off Threaded Optimization - On Tripple Buffering - Off Vertical Sync - Application setting. I'll do some more flights and update this later to let you know if this permanently fixed my issues.. have to admit however, if this does fix issues..it's almost as if an SLI setup is going to be highly beneficial in dcs 2.0 if running tripple monitors, 21:9 or 4k.. or maybe even anything over 1080p if you want high settings.. which is quite a ways off from being something I can afford atm. I can only hope there is more optimization to be done. *Edit* Now call me confused.. but, G-SYNC only seems to be doing half of its job. My monitor is OC'd to 100hz refresh rate, and when I drop below 100FPS the monitor DOES reduce its refresh rate to match, but according to both MSI Afterburner and the FPS counter built into the game - it's still exceeding 100fps even though my monitor tops out at 100hz. G-SYNC should be stopping that from happening afaik. Perhaps I'll submit a bug report, and play around with v-sync settings to see what happens. **Edit** - oddly enough.. enabling V-SYNC seemed to correct the g-sync behavior rather than limit to 60fps. Quite unlike my experience with other games/programs where you have to disable v-sync to get g-sync functionality. Also throwing it out there that after quitting a mission, and starting a new instant action or even just exiting dcs, I get an image from a previous flight before it goes to the loading screen, which makes sense with what I said about vram still showing 5.8gb usage when quitting flight and returning to the main menu. I'm not claiming knowledge or facts at this point..just speculating and questioning, giving the alpha it's due and hoping it can help with future updates. And just to be clear on my current system specs - i5 2500k @ 4.5ghz, 16GB DDR3 1600, 240gb Kingston SSD system drive, two PNY SSD 450gb drives for gaming/storage, EVGA GTX 980Ti, Windows 10 64-bit, Acer X-34 @ 3440x1440 100hz, KB/Mouse/Logitech G633 headset, logitech g13, MFG Xwinds - Warthog Throttle + MSFFB2 (i use the hog stick for jets and a-10c, MSFFB2 for everything else) into two powered usb hubs using 2.0 connections. (having listed everything.. can't you tell why I can't afford to go sli?)

I'll give that a try.. but only having to do so for one program on my PC makes me wonder if it's worth just waiting to see how things progress as 2.1 and Normandy get further development. I sat around tweaking last night and was able to get it to where I hardly even drop below 50fps even flying low, using Instant action in the Dora as a test. around 85-100fps while flying @ 2-4KM altitude. Despite this as soon as I fly over large cities it starts hanging up. Seems in general there are way more trees across the entire map and the cities are far larger more dense and populated with buildings than anything we've seen with the 1.5 map. Even with trees set to 1500 the wooded areas are countless. I'm kind of hoping there's just a buggy texture in there somewhere that they can find and fix, as my hang ups usually come when I'm over large dense cities which have sooo many buildings and trees. *Edit* So I take what I said about the paging file back. I was misinterpreting what MSI Afterburner was reporting, which was actually ram + paging file. DCS is using 12gb of physical memory (rarely exceeds that). Perhaps I will try disabling the paging file all together and see what happens but I'm thinking this isn't related to the paging file, as the stutters were still there. Normandy seems to peg my card at 6gb of VRAM usage, which is the full amount on my 980Ti. I'm going to attempt more tweaking to see if I can get it down to 5gb+ . Watching my framerates with my current settings I average about 70-90 on the ground depending on what's in view ahead of me, sometimes with dips into the 50's but this seems normal. The pauses appear when flying low and towards cities, and some of these cities seem huge and you don't have to look far for another patch of buildings. Going to play around and tweak some more to see if I can lower the VRAM usage at all. Another thing to note - when I first launch 2.1, within the menus, it's only using about 800MB of VRAM at my resolution, once I'm loaded up it's full. When I quit whatever mission I'm flying and go back to the menus, it's still showing about 5.8gb of VRAM usage. I don't know how relevant this is, and I will jump around in say dcs 1.5 and IL-2 BoS to compare this behavior.

Chiming in to say I'm getting freezes and stutters in 2.1 as well. I can't compare to the Nevada map as I don't have it but Normandy likes to freeze me up. 1.5 runs smooth as heck i get 70-100fps @ 3440x1440, maybe drop as low as 40-60 when on the ground when populated, 2.1, i can get as low as 30 on the ground and average about 60-85 in the air. For me, everything seems to be running fine then all of the sudden if I'm low and looking around the game will just freeze up.. sometimes its for half a second, sometimes its 2-3 seconds, sometimes it freezes and doesn't recover, but I can still alt tab out and close it through task manager. I've upgraded from 8gb ram (4x2gb 1600mhz) to 16gb (2x8gb 1600mhz) DDR 3 ram and while it helped a little, the game just still decides to freeze me up. Happens no matter how much I lower settings, I've tried reinstalling on a completely different hard drive to no avail. I'm running on an i5 2500k @ 4.5ghz, 16 gb ddr 3 1600mhz, 980Ti 6gb Vram and it certainly likes using all of the available vram. It also uses quite a large pagefile. Hopefully this is something that will get better with patches.. I quite enjoy my 21:9 setup.

The HOTAS warthog retails for $400-$500. What premium didn't we pay for? At that price there shouldn't be issues for people. Congrats to you for not having any issues with your TM Warthog, but who are you to bash people for pointing out the weakest part of the design which did show itself to those who have a complaint? I paid the price for premium quality. I got a stick that I have to take apart and correct the flaws of the manufacturing process.. you and NO ONE will convince me I'm happy about spending the amount of money I did for this result. In response to other posts, "For every thousands of complaints there are 10s of thousands of no complaints." That doesn't mean those of us who have had issues and are expected to correct them ourselves don't have merit for complaint or hope for a better design in the future. For every 10 thousand non complaints how many of those people even know what signs to look for? I'm sorry dude but lol @ not willing to pay the premium.. I'm pretty sure that's what I did when I ordered the stick in the first place. I personally don't think it's asking too much that if Thrustmaster should release another high priced PC peripheral, that they come up with a design less prone to the issues that people with complaints have complained about. I hope you NEVER get a lemon stick in your life.. good luck to you on that. Personally, there's only one product TM could sell me after this experience... and they haven't designed it yet. *Edit* I take that back.. I'm up in the air on who I'd like to buy a steering wheel from in the future. TM is still a contender there.