Andy1966

Hi All, I have been under the impression that the 21cm rocket was designed as an anti air rocket for use against bomber formations with time delay fuse and was modified with a proximity fuse derived from the 88 aaa round, and then modified again with time delay/impact fuse for ground attack capability, Am I mistaken? if I could figure out how to post a link, I will post info with my posts. its amazing what you can find by searching wwII weapons but distinguishing fact from fiction an be a challenge Andy

Hello again, Thank you all for your kind words. WWII aircraft have been a love of mine since I was a kid, and being able to fly an accurate representation of them is awesome. I'm glad I found DCS, it puts all other sims/games to shame. The upcoming WWII modules have me like a kid at Christmas time. A few other things I forgot to mention: most of the time the prop would spin slow or not spin at all if the clutch in the inertial starter is slipping. this can be caused by a hot heat soaked engine, mechanical engine damage, or hydrolock. we don't have the ability to have the crew chief prop the engine by hand to check for hydrolock so.... All piston aircraft engines are prone to hydrolock (all piston engine engines for that matter) especially the inverted ones. The DB 605 is over 2000 ci and you have to figure that's a lot of fuel moving, so when you shut the engine off, don't kill the spark, use the shutdown lever to shut off fuel,any excess fuel goes to the first open intake valve don't shutoff the pumps until the engine stops turning that way it still has fuel pressure. I did actually manage to get one started once when the prop was spinning slow like that, but the engine failed on take off. most people wouldn't fool with it for a half hour but I did. the clutch 's purpose was to not let a pilot take off with unknown engine damage and have the engine fail during or shortly after takeoff. you have to remember at the time these engines were cutting edge state of the art, and they could fail every time they were started. Bf 109 engine swap time was less than a half Hour...... I realize this is only a computer simulator and arguably prone to glitches, however, as a noob to this world and reading some of the forums, I would say that maybe if ED and the developers didn't have to spend so much time putting out fires in the forums they could concentrate on building great modules.

Hi All, I fly the 109 quite a bit a and have experienced this quite a bit and did a lot of experimenting to find out why. The manual says that the bf- 109 will not run without electrical power and they don't lie. I've had battle damage once (so the score window said) and lost the generator and the engine ran till the battery went dead and the engine lost fuel pressure and died after 10 or 15 mins. After sitting on the ramp without the generator charging the battery (i.e. sitting on the ramp idling or all the switches on and engine off) the battery becomes discharged Quickly and the fuel pump wont run fast enough to provide sufficient fuel pressure or supply the booster coils for the mags.( needed for starting) the generator doesn't cut in until 1200 rpms so don't idle below 1200rpms much. I experimented on the ramp, and found that with all the switches on, and the engine off, you can hear the pumps slowing down,and the engine wont start after only a few mins (say 3-5mins depending on battery state of charge) so be very sparing with your battery power. the only thing that needs to be on to start is the ignition and I don't turn it on till Chief is turning the starter. Also the engine seems to flood very easy when cold and even more so when its hot. The remedy I've found for this is to turn all switches off, put the shut off on #1 only so only one fuel pump runs, too get fuel pressure initially and prime a cold engine, then turn it off. ( I use the selector lever).On a warm or hot engine, DONT PRIME IT. try a warm engine with no prime and ive found about 80% of the time it will start, and the rest a very small 1/4-1/2 stroke should do it. Most of my difficulty starting and restarting after I figured out the battery goes dead very fast seemed to be related to flooding as I turned all fuel and magnetos off and opened the throttle fully and cleared the cyls 3 times then did a normal start up with 1 full stroke of prime and it coughed and sputterd and then caught. ((one time I even got a backfire, I Swear! WAs in a shelter and it scared the hell out of me... lol)) (set throttle about 1/3 to1/2, a little more open then usual).so if it just don't want to start, clear it out and hook up ground power AND DONT OVER PRIME EVEN A COLD ENGINE and it will start every time, but it may take a few tries. After I figured all this out I can get 95+% success starting even down to -30 degrees c. I usually try any start attempt with no prime first (or 1/4 stroke, below +10 c., just double click on the primer). always suspect its over primed and not under primed. you almost cant over prime a p-51, but the Benz is fuel injected and is very sensitive to flooding, but it needs a small amount of initial prime. and don't forget to turn on the fuel pump and generator right after the engine starts. I have also had happen a few times where the engine would kind of half start and then kind of halfway run, and it took me a while to figure out that when it does that to just flick the mags off then back on, and it will clear out(guess the plugs were fouled?) I found out the hard way to make sure your holding the brakes when you do that....... When restarting a warm/hot engine, first turn off any unnecessary electrical equipment (Pitot and windshield heat, and radios come to mind) open the coolers and run at 12-1500 rpms to cool engine off before shutting it down(remember the battery is not charging below 1200 rpms)then use the shut off lever to kill the engine. turn battery and fuel shut off and don't forget to reset the engine shutoff lever to run and all battery switches off. then you will notice the fuel pressure gage still reads full fuel pressure, so no need to run pumps.... When restarting: when starter starts to spin, turn on battery, mags, ignition and then crack the throttle slightly and try first with no prime if it doesn't catch, a small 1/4 shot of prime should do it. then turn on fuel Pump/ shut off valve and generator I really Like the 109 and from what I have researched and seen and read online, this is all normal and correctly modeled. almost all accounts of RL pilots describe difficulties starting (or not starting) especially on the eastern fro, weak batteries, lack of parts, fuel, etc. there is an interview with Gunther Rall on you tube that is a really good and informative interviews Hope this helps, Andy

Congrats again on a beautiful sim-pit after all that work, im sure it is really satisfying to fly it.

Wow.. awesome work on the cockpit, I gotta ask, did you fabricate all that, or are the switch panels available on the market?

I blow up b17-s all the time from about 1.5 k with the 210mm ones. haven't tried the smaller ones yet.

Zaelu, thank you for that link, it worked perfect, no hassle whatsoever. no love lost on the leaders back then, I only like the historic realism aspect. here's some rep

are brakes mapped correctly? most every module I have bought ,I have to map brakes, because brakes work pitch and roll for some reason. as far as game mode goes, you turn it on in main page settings I Believe but im a noob also, so if someone else might know for sure, please correct me, I was wondering about that too.

hi sorry for delay getting back, been out of town. I was talking About the fuel gages mostly, as the engines are mostly separated. my fault, sorry for the confusion. after more flight time I have found that with the instr. lites turned down I can see them, but not as distinct as in rakuzards' post sorry for delay and confusion, and the module is awsome

Great module she is a dream to fly. one small thing I noticed was there is no R and L on engine and fuel gauges. I was trying to balance the fuel gages and couldn't see which was which,no biggie just thought I'd mention it

All I Can say is WOW! Excellent job. Down load went without a hitch, Now i'm going to go filler up and go for a spin. Looks well worth the wait. Thanks again Andy1966

Hello All, I just downloaded the 88 Flak mod and I'm stumped on what location to put it in? :doh: Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

I have cheap tm hotas x, and just add slight rt rudder with my big toe ... just enough to keep straight. this is correct behavior according to interviews I have read. they said they got used to it at higher power settings and after a while they said it was second nature to them.in combat they didn't notice it because controls were constantly moving anyway

then you can designate "Mission Success" When a/c returns to its shelter

fill the ramp with static object a/c, then fill player slots with a/c in a shelter with a designated parking lot #

Hello All, How do I enable German Aircraft tail markings (swastika)? I saw a thread about it but cant find it now :unsure::helpsmilie: Thank you p.s. thanks for answering all of my noobish questions

Thanks Guys That Did it

Hello All, Been trying to install Reflected's Gunther Rall skin, and for the life of me I cant figure out which folder to put it in. Any help would be appreciated :cry: thanks:unsure:

ordered f5 already, waiting patiently for: p-47 spits Normandy map F-18+SOH map did I say F-14? Any model B-17 at any level FM= first day buy for me a Russian twin bomber ie, Tu-2, Yak-4, or Pe-2 would be nice also

it says in manual to fire two to ensure target destruction

have flown on warthunder some but mostly aces hi

hi all and thank you, I have been toying around with dcs for about 6 monts or so and have just began to get serious.... So far I have the P-51-D ,Bf 109,Dora and F86 I may get blackshark and try my hand on helios

Greetings Everyone, New to DCS and just wanted to say hi and say a big thank you to ED, TFC, AND every one else involved in making this the most realistic flight sim ive ever tried. the community seems top notch too