TomVR

Consider down the line making a single axis kit, would be interesting to try making rudder pedals that can switch between anti-torque (no centering) or regular rudder pedals, maybe even having airspeed resistance changes for warbirds (you can feel your airspeed in the pedals!)

very much designed to bind! Before I build my simpit I did have a set of left over rods I mounted to the front of my chair and then put my joystick on a baseplate. Nice quick release, but ended up reusing the base plate for a camera rig anyway. Definitely not a bearing surface

I wonder if then instead running a shoulder bolt from the top and putting a nut on the bottom would work better https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell5pcs-Stainless-Socket-Shoulder-Length/dp/B077GWSV23/ref=sr_1_47?crid=1ZYZRE2FM43G1&keywords=5mm+shoulder+bolt&qid=1644431485&sprefix=5mm+shoulder+bolt%2Caps%2C60&sr=8-47

Started playing around with this project again, I've narrowed down my pitch clunk seems to be related to the M5x50 screw going up into the 20x20 base. Any ideas how to reduce the slop in it? Also on a whim I made an adapter for the Authentikit Spade grip to put onto the extrusion. anglebracket_mod.stl

Hmmm I know that mechanism https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4645392 Though I designed mine originally in about an hour in sketchup so there is a lot of potential for improvement, I actually considered putting a 608 bearing (skateboard) on the back of the lever to make it roll smoother over the detents, but the one I have installed in my cockpit now with just plastic rubbing seems to be holding up fine. Looking forward to printing this when it's ready!

yeah I ended up shimming the inside of the joint by expanding the width axis by 0.5% in my slicer settings, but that might be a good idea if things wear down overtime.

ended up reprinting the core joint and rotating the arm pillow blocks and that removed the clunk. Yeah my unique case is I'm trying to mount a GR tornado grip to the top of the gimbal which comes it at a staggering 1.7kilos for just the grip, so my hope was to tune the cams to try and keep the weight of the grip itself balanced. What I've ended up finding though is the linkages from the gimbal are too complex and there are too many cantilevered parts in the design so it just flexes and breaks with strong enough springs. Such heavy cams need to be as close to the original "axis" of rotation as possible. I might instead try just having a single spring that comes right out of the bottom of the core joint that goes to the bottom of the box as just a very basic "centering" force to see if that elevates the weight.

In the gimbal design, has anyone had a problem with a clunk on the pitch axis? Feels like the "GIMBAL_CORE_JOINT.STL" part is shifting back and forth while crossing the center on the pitch, making a popping noise and a felt clunk. Only happens when there is an external load on the axis from the gear teeth (or my cam springs) recorded a video of it happening. https://imgur.com/a/QQP1L1s

are you cloning the entire repo? If you right click and save as on github it just downloads an html which contains a bunch of useless binary text. You have to either use a git client or download the entire repo

So i've had to put my plans for the project on hold for awhile as the costs of motors + odrive I keep putting into regular life/house stuff instead of this hobby, but just had a really dumb idea of remixing the object-77b cams and cheap skateboard bearings. https://imgur.com/a/DeUFvlK The roller at the bottom and the piece that holds it flexes too much so I'm either going to have to make that part from metal or cantilever it with a strap going over the top of the cams to pull it back straight. Using the miss's hairbands as temp springs. I actually wonder if having a cam spring, even with the motors engaged could be balanced to "neutralize" the weight of the grip over the long extension. On Cinema camera heads we use a similar system of counterbalance springs to make a 60lb+ camera be able to tilt up and down without being difficult to operate. My thought is having a light cam centering system tuned to keep the grip balanced might help a lot with the motors having to work much less to keep the stick centered. For now I'm just gonna use it so I get get a working stick and get around to adding the motors much later. edit: also in reality it would just be way way easier to take the entire object-77b gimbal and scale it up but damn it I'm too far along now!

I designed a remix of them and use them a ton! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4828869 Also this cam is much better as it removes the center slop https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4840037

you can't just right click and download on github, you either have to download the entire repo or use a git client to pull a specific file. Right clicking and saving as on something will just download the html file with the binary in it. jeez it's just getting bigger and meater! Also should be careful to put a leather boot over it as I can see a ton of pinch points.

I think direct drive is also a safety issue, a belt will slip before your shoulder with dislocate for example. Also what model of MOSFETs did you replace on your pcb?

I am still thinking of using the existing MSFBB2 motors themselves instead of doing a full swap to new motors, but they are pretty whimpy edit: Starting to put my all 3d printed housing together based on Walmis's laser cut files. Also thinking about how I can stack the pulleys, not sure where to put the motor input now though as there isn't really a lot of space, and want to avoid gearing and reintroducing the grinding feeling into the stick. Also more reading on Cycloidal drives seems that they would produce a similar "clunk clunk clunk" effect while being backdriven so other than their compactness they aren't really suitable. Travelling again for work so don't have a chance to actually open up my MSFFB and see what the as designed gear reduction is, reading conflicting posts that its either 25:1 or 16:1

PC is great at impact strength but not so great at cycling and fatigue, a PETG/NYLON blend might be better suited Also Im trying to figure out how to compactly compound two pulleys onto the design to try and get a 25:1 ratio (closer to the MSFFB2 gearing) instead of the current 5:1. I am semi tempted to just reduce the gearing already in the MSFFB2 design but I guess it'll still feel pretty clunky like the original stick does. edit: I wonder if a page can be taken out of the hobbyist robotics community with a cycloidal drive for the motor output, very chungus though

Also the OP in that thread is discussing compound pulleys as a way to increase torque. It's an interesting suggestion, since I think overall FFB speed might not be as important as a strong centering force, though the rattling and vibration effects I guess would suffer a lot.

Some madlad has already completed a MSFFB2 driven propeler gimbal design. hope they post detail in the thread. https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/py7525/ive_seen_some_love_for_the_microsoft_sidewinder/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

does it randomly put massive pitch down inputs on the yoke or did thrustmaster not licensee that from boeing too lol

Looks less like a "combat" hotas and more like a supped up airbus hotas

get some metal brake levers as toe brakes

ah yes, this famous post https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/27099-ms-ffb2-modded-stick-for-you/?do=findComment&comment=735904 I think I can recreate that using propeler's excellent gimbal design. Its not every day I come across a MSFFB2 for 20 bucks locally! I'll have to do some searching in ancient threads too, I remember reading an external PSU and mosfet mod that could get 400% more torque from the standard motors. though I expect much of the useful reference is all lost to the photobucket apocalypse

Been caught up with annoying real life stuff and finally coming back to this, though I just came across a MSFBB2 n.i.b. for a bargin. I am wondering how putting the motors and circuitry of a MSFFB2 instead of hoverboards would hold up. The belt/gear ratio would help a lot but I am not sure even with the resistor mod if it wouldn't still be much too weak. The other concern is the mechanical deadzone MSFBB2's have, and if it can be overcome with this new gimbal

I just bought a bluepill and hooked up all my analog axis and shift registers to it instead running freejoy. Much better experience overall since its still actively developed

https://openhornet.com/

Give it a bit of a ramp as an option for a pushthrough detent instead.