acemark

Thanks JG14 Smil,Tried pic idea but need to try again . Having pics with descriptions below is what I'd like to do. Grip weighs about 1.5 lbs. est. dont have scale.Seams to be almost the same weight as the Saitek X-52 pro throtle,when holding both to compair.Spent this last week trying to paint lettering on grip ,but not much to say here, oh well. Need to figure out where to find the rubber boot at the sticks base. Maybe a toilet plunger?:D Mark.

http://forums.eagle.ru/album.php?albumid=730Some pics of the brake leaver with paint. Hope I can use the other one for my collective,throw the bicycle out and just fly...

:)Thank you PeterP I'm honored. Froglips , You asked an exellent question with this thread.I got 75% of my photos info from the link in the 2nd post of this thread by AlphaOneSix. Pics of the KA-50 cyclic are an extreem raredy. The" right "side, I only saw after I made my cyclic.:joystick: SO THANKS A LOT ! Mark.

Thanks leafer glad your interested. JG14 smil, editing advice much needed, Thanks I put it to work. I forgot to show you the backside! its done to. Added more pics.Mark http://forums.eagle.ru/album.php?albumid=730

http://forums.eagle.ru/album.php?albumid=730 here are some pics. This version will fit in my console . The trigger and buttons are in and stick bent and cut to length. I broke my vise bending the 1" electrical conduit ,but got the bend finished.

http://postimage.org/gallery/onhmwju/ Here are a few pics of the finished paint,and a mockup of the stick that I will use. Happy with results of using caster for a gimmbal, now must make it fit in a console or a pedistale?.. Figured out a way to do the hat switch using innertube for bicycle, will post pics when all the switches are in. PeterP you are right, got a dremal and 300 piece kit yesterday on sale , by chance while at the store to buy the innertube for the hat switch. Mark.

Hello and sorry about that . For now the link in Agrasyuks post #10 is showing the latest pics. I dont know why but it works. Mark. Link now works.Mark.

http://forums.eagle.ru/album.php?albumid=725 Here's a shot of the finished trigger, ready to install. Hope you liked it. You can see the mounting of this trigger on the" KA-50 cyclic " thread, soon. Happy newyear Mark.!!!.

http://postimage.org/gallery/eo2hd16/Hello everyone. I am makeing a cyclic for my pit.I am trying to make it look as close to real as practical.I am still working on the hat switch, not quite there yet on how to do it. These pics show epoxy finished, all metal in and tapped,first sanding. paint is next. Coulor : BLACK and one red spot. Material list: Styro foam EPOXY glue SARAN wrap sometimes called cling wrap, to wrap sandwitches in. Fiberglass cloth Corse sandpaper 100 grit is good hand saw if piece of styro foam is large. Hacksaw blade [without the handle works good. SHape styro , cut cloth, [creditcard size ] mix glue,put cloth on styro ,put mixed glue on center of cloth,put saran over glue and gently press smooth with fingers , working from the center out. REmember epoxy dries fast. Only do a small area at once. PUT saran on press it and LEAVE IT ALONE to dry about 20 mins. and remove the saran .If you fuss with it too much the saran will stick to the glue. You will feel it get warm [setting up] if you handle it too long. If the saran does stick then you will need to sand the saran off after it dries. The saran will also stick where wrinkels form. Cant be avoided. It does not mater if the glue does not cover all of the cloth the first time,AS in I DID NOT MIX ENOUGH GLUE. Be sure that the cloth glue edge is pressed flat. If it is not flat it will have to be removed by sanding.IF it is pressed flat, wait for it to dry,mix more glue and repeat with or with out more cloth. In areas that need build up , you can do several layers of cloth at once. Remember to press the glue through the cloth. Applying glue first also workes but i tended to put the glue in the wrong spot.If you apply the glue to the cloth , and then to the styro foam good luck to you.ITS a bit like untangeling overcooked spagetti quickly before it cools. I went around twice and some areas got three layers of cloth. Sissors worked well for trimming each layer right after the saran is removed, Like the back where the switch pannel needs to fit. If you have any Questions please ask and I will try to answer them. gallery/eo2hd16/

I will start a new thread with info on where the trigger will mount. It will be called KA-50 cyclic. Link to cyclic threadhttp://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=99274

Wile I was redoing my post Agrasyuk got my link to work. Thanks , AND even though I removed it, it still works. Agrasyuk Did I make a spelling error? POSTING PICS ARE HARDER THAN BUILDING COCKPITS! Mark

Hello everyone I have added pics of trigger breakdown and the painted parts. Need to wait couple days for paint to harden. Please note the cannon trigger retur stop screw and nut is missing. ITs a #6-28 x 1.5 " screw that will be cut to about 1" long. ****CLICK ON LINK IN FIRST THREAD TO SEE NEW PICS**** Thanks Mark

Showtime817th, your pit is really starting rock now. I love the bazzels on your guages, looks great !!! Mark

Thanks for the good words. I will post more pics when painted. JG14_Smil I will try your sugestion next time. I had a frustrating time or weekend trying to post pics on this forum. Thanks again Mark.

OK I got it working.

http://postimage.org/gallery/14l6uumi/Here are some pics of my version of the KA-50 trigger assembly on the cyclic controll. Its made from 1/8" aluminum flat bar stock, bent to shape in my vice. Hope you like, Mark.

IT is doable I am running 6 monitors.BE ware of USB type interface for monitors as they have a rep. for heavy frame rate taxing.

I just mine working in DCS W. I too am only flying Ka 50. Very happy with it. The unit has a sophisticated method of adjustment, that I am still working with.Every time I altered a profile 2 or 3 times ,I would delete and start with the defalt."MORE TIME NEEDED HERE" I would add that I dont want an amusment ride.I want to notice events happening. I agree that the BS vibes are too low at slow flight, but at 200 KPH ITS too strong,I expect the bird to start self destructing.I think this can be overcome in time with tinkering the profile. The cannon fire is awesum . I have not tried any other tactile feedback devices. Hope this helps. Mark.

Looking very good, well done. To the KA 50 Hooray!

Well thats good news. I plan to try rudder pedles first. Thank Mark.

Hello Brydling I would like to know if I can connect a Hall Effects sensor to the analog input, on your board. Thanks Mark.

ED Forum/inputs outputs/How to- Assigning toggle switches to DCS using Helios/Ragtop. This is where I found it , !st post tells where to look. Sorry, dont know how to make link.

Helios solved the problem,jumper wires removed,toggels working fine.Thanks Avlolga .

Hello BaD CrC Can you please explane how you set up rotary switchs? or pots?or what?, for example the shkval brightness knob, in your pit? Does your Abris selector knob have the push function working? I am building a KA 50 pit and need some help please, thanks Mark.

My BS2 Export lua. file with Helios. Sorry it took so long.