Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods

[debolestis]

I assembled talon stick and tested it, and I am not happy with the results. Maybe I did something wrong, I don't know but hall sensor mod is not good form me. I get only +-600 in resolution and there is also large dead zone. It is mechanical problem with gimbal.

 

But I like the grip very much, so I decided to put it on base of another joystick. At the moment I can get CH Flight Stick Pro, Thrustmaster Top Gun, and Thrustmaster X-fighter. I need advice, what would give me the best results? Does X-fighter have metal gimbal?

 

I am also looking for Thrustmaster F-22, If anybody is willing to sell one please send me a message.

 

I am also finishing the throttle, I'll post some photos soon.

 

Thank you!

Edited April 8, 2015 by debolestis

[JaNk0]

Maybe a silly question but what is the bit-resolution on the analog input on the BU0836A-NC ?

Edited April 8, 2015 by JaNk0

[debolestis]

Maybe a silly question but how what is the bit-resolution on the analog input on the BU0836A-NC ?

 

Resolution is 12 bit, 4096, +/- 2048.

[JaNk0]

Hvala debolestis

 

Are you giving up on the idea of hall sensors in the current base?

[debolestis]

I don't know, maybe in future I'll think of something better, or maybe there will be slide hall sensors on the market.

[Sokol1_br]

But I like the grip very much, so I decided to put it on base of another joystick.

 

Why you dont buy a Bauer BRD-D base kit and use with F-15 Talon and your BU0836?

 

Is all metal, ball bearings, cam levers, possibility to change springs...

 

http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=702&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=135

 

Option for sensor, assembly a PCB with "MaRS" with TLE5010/11 (cost ~3$ in China) - this require a MMjoy controller, because work in digital mode.

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4097757/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4097757

 

 

 

Or get "MaRS" assembled from Bauer, I think is 10 Euro each.

 

Other alternative is use slide potentiometers in Suncom - like the originals - the only inconvenient is his "short" life span.

 

Tm F-22 PRO gimbal is not good, is metal but have have "play"in axis, the spring system have "mechanical deadzone" (like in Cougar) and is too heavy (IMO).

Edited April 8, 2015 by Sokol1_br

[debolestis]

Why you dont buy a Bauer BRD-D base kit and use with F-15 Talon and your BU0836?

 

Is all metal, ball bearings, cam levers, possibility to change springs...

 

http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=702&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=135

 

 

Bauer base kit is spectacular, but I'd rather build something myself.

[debolestis]

I was working on SFS throttle.

 

 

It is simple job at this point, just wiring diodes in matrix.

 

 

I had some cable sleeve, now everything looks clean.

 

 

I also made this board, it makes things more simple, it is easier to disassemble everything. This way it is not necessary to solder all the wires together. It is simple parallel connection of 6x6 pins. I don't know why Leo Bodnar doesn't make something like this.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 10, 2017 by debolestis

[debolestis]

This part is not in throttle at the moment.

 

 

I felt that throttle is "yawing" a little and I decided to make this part in stainless steel. It will be made in next few days.

Edited July 10, 2017 by debolestis

[debolestis]

 

This is a pinkie switch that was broken. Can somebody send me a few photos and measures of it. I'll 3D print it.

 

Thank you!

Edited July 10, 2017 by debolestis

[debolestis]

I just got new joystick. It is Thrustmaster X-Fighter, I bought it on eBay for 1,5 Euros. It looks like it was used very little.

 

 

The base is much bigger, mechanism is simple it uses CTS pots, there is not even circuit board inside. It was very, very stiff and then I disassembled it and removed conical spring. It still has springs for each axes, now it is completely different stick. Off course I assembled it in wrong way.

 

Now I just have to figure out how to put Suncom grip on X-Fighter base.

 

This is the spring, it is a lot stronger then original Suncom spring.

 

Edited July 10, 2017 by debolestis

[531-Ghost]

Just a li'l somethin' I threw together. That's a CH ProThrottle w/ Suncom Handles all programmable in Control Manager.

 

:joystick:

[WildBillKelsoe]

Ghost.... I'm speechless!!! WICKED!!

[debolestis]

New piece arrived, it is stainless steel, it was burned and ugly so I decided to polish it. It is such a great material to work with.

 

 

 

Throttle now feels so much smoother, friction adjusting lever is better than before, range of friction is better, and it looks great.

 

 

 

 

I connected everything, pots are good, no spiking, I didn't connect red switches and LEDs on the base, I'll do that later but they are on bad place it is difficult to reach them.

 

I also have an idea of connecting 6 LEDs on on right side to throttle pot so that they turn on as I move the throttle forward. It is probably possible but I have no idea how to do it. I need advice on it or a schematics, please help.

 

Edited July 10, 2017 by debolestis

[Sokol1_br]

I think you will need a circuit that convert pot' output voltage variation 0 ~5v in ON-OFF signal to LED, e.g 0-1v turn ON LED1, 1- 2v turn ON LED2... etc.

What means a little complicated circuit with logic switch's, not a simple dimmer.

 

My "solution" for these LED - find them too "toy" in a F-15, all this "Christmas Lights" on sticks belong to Saitek. :)

 

 

~0,5 mm black plastic sheet. :)

 

Anyway I save the LED and buttons for a "button box". :smilewink:

[debolestis]

I think you will need a circuit that convert pot' output voltage variation 0 ~5v in ON-OFF signal to LED, e.g 0-1v turn ON LED1, 1- 2v turn ON LED2... etc.

What means a little complicated circuit with logic switch's, not a simple dimmer.

 

My "solution" for these LED - find them too "toy" in a F-15, all this "Christmas Lights" on sticks belong to Saitek. :)

 

 

~0,5 mm black plastic sheet. :)

 

Anyway I save the LED and buttons for a "button box". :smilewink:

 

Yes, you are probably right, I am sometimes complicating things that should be simple. I'll probably do it like you say.

 

But if anybody wants to know more this is what should be done for LED throttle mod:

 

Dot/Bar Display Driver Hookup Guide

 

[debolestis]

Are there any hall sensor mods for this throttle?

[Sokol1_br]

I suggest get two generic potentiometer and assembly the HALL using the pot parts as base.

This mean that you are assembly a "pot" hall.

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4098966/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4098966

 

Look at this video, how the guy did for Logitech G-25/25 pedals.

 

 

Or make the assembly.

 

Then use R/C ball links (DU-BRO) to make throttle levers move the pot's.

Is need fit lever on pot axis, again look at RC parts, eg. Servo arms, Steering arm...

 

I use this solution - but with DIY parts - in one SFS, but now the pictures are lost by Imageshack changes.

 

But if you find quality (Bourns, Alphs...) slide pot', you can use without problem. (KISS). :)

 

Real Simulator FUSBA adapter for SFS use pots.

 

 

yes

[Sokol1_br]

Find a picture of my "work of art" - "BIC" HALL on SFS. :P

 

I think that give a picture of the idea.

 

 

Since you mention have access to 3D printer, will be easy do a more elegant solution. ;)

 

Other "pot" HALL for G-27 that give you idea of how assembly one. This one look like 3D printed parts.

 

Edited April 22, 2015 by Sokol1_br

[roadrunner1024]

hi guys, I've recently bought an old suncom throttle with the view to converting it to USB with a Arduino Pro Micro & MMJoy

 

having opened it up I'm completely lost, I understand I will need to create a diode matrix, but from reading some posts here it appears that the throttle has 3 matrix's already: 2 4x1 matrix's & one 8x1 matrix.

 

this is where I get lost, how do I figure out the pinouts? have my multimeter set to mesure resistance but have so far only got one result from the three matrix' how do I figure out where ground is & the row/column layout?

 

or am I better off rewiring it to a single 4x4 matrix that I create from scratch? & connecting that to the arduinio?

[debolestis]

hi guys, I've recently bought an old suncom throttle with the view to converting it to USB with a Arduino Pro Micro & MMJoy

 

having opened it up I'm completely lost, I understand I will need to create a diode matrix, but from reading some posts here it appears that the throttle has 3 matrix's already: 2 4x1 matrix's & one 8x1 matrix.

 

this is where I get lost, how do I figure out the pinouts? have my multimeter set to mesure resistance but have so far only got one result from the three matrix' how do I figure out where ground is & the row/column layout?

 

or am I better off rewiring it to a single 4x4 matrix that I create from scratch? & connecting that to the arduinio?

 

Hi, I rewired 4x4 matrix for the right throttle, and 3x2 for the left. I think that in original wiring has different matrix. I am not familiar with Arduino Pro Micro & MMJoy.

[roadrunner1024]

Hi, I rewired 4x4 matrix for the right throttle, and 3x2 for the left. I think that in original wiring has different matrix. I am not familiar with Arduino Pro Micro & MMJoy.

 

thanks,

 

from looking at this diagram: http://www.gerryk.com/node/46

 

it looks like I can combine the 4 1x4 matrix in the right stick into 1x 4x4 by simply joining the column wires, is this how you did it?

 

 

1 more question, I was looking at this link to figure out how to wire the matrix up & it appears the diodes are the opposite polarity to those on the suncom? http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/8509/3posauto.jpg

 

how did you deal with this? did you need to de-solder the diodes & reverse? or has the guy that drew this diagram got his annodes & cathodes mixed up when he drew it?

 

& how did you wire up your on -off-on switches? do you have them as switch1-off-switch1? or do you have them as switch1-off-switch2?

 

Cheers!

 

Andrew

[debolestis]

thanks,

 

from looking at this diagram: http://www.gerryk.com/node/46

 

it looks like I can combine the 4 1x4 matrix in the right stick into 1x 4x4 by simply joining the column wires, is this how you did it?

 

 

1 more question, I was looking at this link to figure out how to wire the matrix up & it appears the diodes are the opposite polarity to those on the suncom? http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/8509/3posauto.jpg

 

how did you deal with this? did you need to de-solder the diodes & reverse? or has the guy that drew this diagram got his annodes & cathodes mixed up when he drew it?

 

& how did you wire up your on -off-on switches? do you have them as switch1-off-switch1? or do you have them as switch1-off-switch2?

 

Cheers!

 

Andrew

 

I removed everything and resoldered with new diodes. I used eLo Bodnar's boar and you have to properly orient diodes, if they are wrong way it won't work.

 

 

Image from gerryk.com is exactly what I did.

[roadrunner1024]

I removed everything and resoldered with new diodes. I used eLo Bodnar's boar and you have to properly orient diodes, if they are wrong way it won't work.

 

 

Image from gerryk.com is exactly what I did.

 

yeah looking at leo-bodars matrix, it looks like the diodes are orientated the correct way on the suncom & its the Spanish guys diagram that's wrong...

 

I suppose i'll try wiring up the matrix's without a full rewire 1st & see if I can get it to work,

 

did you have to replace your Pots? or were the originals ok?

[debolestis]

 

This wil work