Sticky warthog fix [Video]

Frusheen · February 12, 2016

I'm not a warthog owner myself but I recently started messing about with Star Cirizen. A SC guy I'm subscribed too on YouTube just posted this video.

I thought it may be of interest to some of the warthog users in DCS that may want to smooth out the gimbal response a bit if they find it sticky.

Edited February 12, 2016 by Frusheen

1.JaVA_Platypus · February 13, 2016

He is rather careless with the electronics. Why doesn't he disassemble the electronics? The HALL sensor is easily removable. And also expensive to replace if you damage it. If you are able to solder the ground wire back on, you should also remove the PCB and set it safely aside. And I don't recommend using drill bits to enlarge the holes. If you damage the holes, or make them too big, you will end up with mechanical play. He is also endagering the rather flimsy wires running through the gimbal. And why doesn't he remove the old grease first?

The grease should be thick and not silicone or oil based. Silicones and oil can damage plastic parts.

I performed a similar procedure according to the vid below. It is much safer this way:

and the vid is much shorter, less fiddling and more instructions.

Edited February 13, 2016 by 1.JaVA_Platypus

jcbak · February 13, 2016

All you need to do is to spray some silicon in the post holes of the flange. I tried silicon grease but the spray lasts longer. An extension seems to solve the problem permanently as well as offering other advantages such as much more precision.

dburne · February 13, 2016

An extension seems to solve the problem permanently as well as offering other advantages such as much more precision.

Indeed, even my 7.5 cm extension makes all the difference. Much better.

1.JaVA_Platypus · February 13, 2016

Silicone spray? Years ago, my poor old X45 died from silicone spray. It creaked and squeked like a pig. Silicone spray is essentially tiny particles of sand. Imagine that grinding against the plastic parts of your joystick...

Anyways, There are small seems, leftovers from the molding process on the plastic parts of the Warthog. It makes sense to remove those by carefull sanding. The seems may lead to quicker wear and tear. I think the grease itself is fine. But after the sanding, particles of plastic stick to the grease and that is not good for the lubrication.

Extending the joystick is not an option for me. I can not build a home cockpit and sticking the Warthog to my chair is clumsy I think.

Rabso · February 13, 2016

All you need to do is to spray some silicon in the post holes of the flange. I tried silicon grease but the spray lasts longer. An extension seems to solve the problem permanently as well as offering other advantages such as much more precision.

well guys an just a 3 months new to Warthog joystick and after seeing both videos, I am kind not sure and not comfortable to disassemble my joystick.

Is it confirmed that adding extension will solve the problem?

dburne · February 13, 2016

Is it confirmed that adding extension will solve the problem?

That would be hard to say, as I would think whether it "solves" the stiction issue could be a very subjective thing for the individual using it and the length of the extension as well.

I can say for me, even with just the 7.5cm extension, it certainly made it heaps better in how it feels to me. I can make very small movements from center much easier than I could prior to having this extension installed. And my flying/maneuvering in the KA-50 certainly improved some as a result. And certainly the longer the extension, the less amount of force will be required to start the movement from center.

Sporg · February 13, 2016

well guys an just a 3 months new to Warthog joystick and after seeing both videos, I am kind not sure and not comfortable to disassemble my joystick.

Is it confirmed that adding extension will solve the problem?

Adding an extension largely solved my problem with sticktion in as much as I could now control the stick better.

Ultimately I ended up disassembling, sanding and re-greasing the stick as well, and that made it even better.

Rabso · February 14, 2016

thanks guys, it seems that I have to do the sanding thing to get the ultimate of Warthog. well initially I will start with the extension first.

hannibal · February 14, 2016

thank you for your detail instructions... i bought lewmar a while back, now i have to look for the tube and put it to use!

hannibal · February 14, 2016

can you write on the comments, the three types of sand paper that you use?

also, if i dont have the sticktion problem, should i just leave my warthogs alone?

Edited February 14, 2016 by hannibal

SinusoidDelta · February 14, 2016

if you don't have the problem I would say yes leave it alone you're more likely to break something than make the stick perform better. if you're confident in your abilities then start out low grit then repeat with a higher grit sandpaper, until you get to the highest (400-600-1000-2000). Mostly you are just trying to get rid of whats called 'flash', leftover plastic from the injection molding process. Its pretty unacceptable from a QC standpoint that TM's parts are not finished, they don't break hard edges or ensure proper fitment of mating surfaces. I was shocked when I opened my warthog up.

Edit: Do not use silicone spray lubricant. Use a known, plastic safe, non- conductive lithium grease.

Edited February 14, 2016 by SinusoidDelta

1.JaVA_Platypus · February 14, 2016

Edit: Do not use silicone spray lubricant. Use a known, plastic safe, non- conductive lithium grease.

Can't be said enough. :thumbup:

Also, if you are not comfortable opening-up the Warthog and you don't really have a problem with it, you shouldn't do it. But the vid that I posted on the first page is really very good. Watch it two or three times and maybe you can make sure you can watch sections of it during your actual disassembly. This vid is very good with lots of good hints and instructions.

Edited February 14, 2016 by 1.JaVA_Platypus

hannibal · February 14, 2016

if you don't have the problem I would say yes leave it alone you're more likely to break something than make the stick perform better. if you're confident in your abilities then start out low grit then repeat with a higher grit sandpaper, until you get to the highest (400-600-1000-2000). Mostly you are just trying to get rid of whats called 'flash', leftover plastic from the injection molding process. Its pretty unacceptable from a QC standpoint that TM's parts are not finished, they don't break hard edges or ensure proper fitment of mating surfaces. I was shocked when I opened my warthog up.

Edit: Do not use silicone spray lubricant. Use a known, plastic safe, non- conductive lithium grease.

i have a tube of lewmar, like the guy from video, ordered from a marine supply store

i have no problem taking it a part. but they always say, best to leave something that not broken~ alone...

SinusoidDelta · February 14, 2016

i have a tube of lewmar, like the guy from video, ordered from a marine supply store

i have no problem taking it a part. but they always say, best to leave something that not broken~ alone...

Where's the fun in that though? I've had mine apart 3 times now! :)

Fix it until its broken! :lol:

Jateu · February 17, 2016

Used another tutorial online for stiction fix. Just smoothed all the high edges and ridges on gimbal internals and covered in a military plastic safe grease . And not my hotas is as smooth as ever. I agree I would not do this mod unless you have a good skill level with electronics. You should really understand soldering to really more sure you are being safe with the components.

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Sticky warthog fix [Video]

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