ebabil Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 Currently i am using buttons on my controller as flap, landing gear levers. is there any budget solution to control these with more realistic hardware. i saw saitek panels but it doesn't have flap and landing gear on same box. FC3 | UH-1 | Mi-8 | A-10C II | F/A-18 | Ka-50 III | F-14 | F-16 | AH-64 | Mi-24 | F-5 | F-15E| F-4| Tornado Persian Gulf | Nevada | Syria | NS-430 | Supercarrier // Wishlist: CH-53 | UH-60 Youtube MS FFB2 - TM Warthog - CH Pro Pedals - Trackir 5
Sokol1_br Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) "RTU" are this GA panel from GoFlight. https://goflightinc.com/store/gf-lgt-ii-landing-gear-and-trim-control-module/ Flaps control probable are a 3 position (ON-OFF-ON) switch like in Warthog, and landing gear a ON-OFF. No info if they are USB HID "PnP" device or depend on 3rd part drivers or simulator support. Edited August 8, 2016 by Sokol1_br
ebabil Posted August 8, 2016 Author Posted August 8, 2016 i had seen this but 200 bucks for only 3-4 buttons. it even hasn't a frame or a base. it is just a panel FC3 | UH-1 | Mi-8 | A-10C II | F/A-18 | Ka-50 III | F-14 | F-16 | AH-64 | Mi-24 | F-5 | F-15E| F-4| Tornado Persian Gulf | Nevada | Syria | NS-430 | Supercarrier // Wishlist: CH-53 | UH-60 Youtube MS FFB2 - TM Warthog - CH Pro Pedals - Trackir 5
Lausbub78 Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 I believe there is no cheap solution for more or less realistic landing gear/Flaps controls. In my opinion the best solution is something DIY using on/off/on toggle switches for landing Gear and some momentary toggle switch (on)off(on) for flaps. But it needs one of those USB Controler boards,like Leo Bodnars or something similar,which is propably the most expensive part of the project. It's still better than those overpriced GoFlight panels,and you can add up to 32 buttons,if you want.
hansangb Posted August 8, 2016 Posted August 8, 2016 Currently i am using buttons on my controller as flap, landing gear levers. is there any budget solution to control these with more realistic hardware. i saw saitek panels but it doesn't have flap and landing gear on same box. ebabil, define budget solutions? You can probably make one for around $55 USD. With room to grow. Se THIS thread to see what the options are. Also, check out what HEGYKC is doing in the F18 replica thread. hsb hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
ebabil Posted August 9, 2016 Author Posted August 9, 2016 50 bucks sounds ok for a flap and gear switc panel. i have no talent about electronics so i don't think that i can make one for myself. but i would really like to do. in fact , i see lots of button boxes for race simmers on internet. for some reason, flight simmers don't seem to be interested in this. FC3 | UH-1 | Mi-8 | A-10C II | F/A-18 | Ka-50 III | F-14 | F-16 | AH-64 | Mi-24 | F-5 | F-15E| F-4| Tornado Persian Gulf | Nevada | Syria | NS-430 | Supercarrier // Wishlist: CH-53 | UH-60 Youtube MS FFB2 - TM Warthog - CH Pro Pedals - Trackir 5
bobslob Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 50 bucks sounds ok for a flap and gear switc panel. i have no talent about electronics so i don't think that i can make one for myself. but i would really like to do. in fact , i see lots of button boxes for race simmers on internet. for some reason, flight simmers don't seem to be interested in this. You could easily spend a few hours reading about Arduinos and have working switches and buttons. Then you just need to make a panel =D
ebabil Posted August 9, 2016 Author Posted August 9, 2016 is it that easy? where to start? FC3 | UH-1 | Mi-8 | A-10C II | F/A-18 | Ka-50 III | F-14 | F-16 | AH-64 | Mi-24 | F-5 | F-15E| F-4| Tornado Persian Gulf | Nevada | Syria | NS-430 | Supercarrier // Wishlist: CH-53 | UH-60 Youtube MS FFB2 - TM Warthog - CH Pro Pedals - Trackir 5
Krysnic Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Read about MMJoy2, on this forum ore simhq. For example Building the ConTrollR... My ex throttle quadrant CPU i7-4790k/ zotac GTX1080/ ОЗУ 16Gb/ Philips 40" 3840x2160/ джойстик BRD-N(v. №4) + педали BRD-F2 restyling + WW2-DVik Throttle(MMJoy2)/ TrackIR5 pro/ https://cults3d.com/ru/polzovateli/abelnaitrod/tvoreniya
FSFIan Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 If you want to make a HID (USB Joystick) device, you want an Arduino board based on the ATMega32u4 controller. There are two options: the Arduino Leonardo, or the Arduino Pro Micro (not Pro Mini!), which has a much smaller form factor, costs a bit less and has less I/O pins. Both are available on eBay for less than $10. They come with examples for emulating a keyboard and mouse, but there are libraries and example projects on the internet that show how to emulate joysticks and gamepads instead. Note: you can also make a HID controller with an Arduino Uno or Mega, but that is more involved because you need to reprogram the USB-to-serial chip on the board, which is just another microcontroller. Changing the code afterwards requires flashing back the original USB-to-serial firmware first or using a dedicated ISP programming adapter. If you want to do that trick, make sure you don't get one of the cheaper clones that substitute a CH340 or similar chip for the ATMega16U2 to do the USB-to-serial conversion (make sure the article description explicitly mentions it comes with an ATMega16U2). DCS-BIOS | How to export CMSP, RWR, etc. through MonitorSetup.lua
ebabil Posted August 9, 2016 Author Posted August 9, 2016 what should my shopping list be? - Arduino leonardo - Physical buttons and switches then what? what tools will i need to merge these cables with switches and board, can i install the cables with hand or a special tool? FC3 | UH-1 | Mi-8 | A-10C II | F/A-18 | Ka-50 III | F-14 | F-16 | AH-64 | Mi-24 | F-5 | F-15E| F-4| Tornado Persian Gulf | Nevada | Syria | NS-430 | Supercarrier // Wishlist: CH-53 | UH-60 Youtube MS FFB2 - TM Warthog - CH Pro Pedals - Trackir 5
Sokol1_br Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) Firmware done for Arduino ATMEGA43u4 based boards, made by flight simmer, very configurable and flexible, just matter to Flash in Arduino through USB cable: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=120049 Thousands of users across the world use MMjoy2 based controllers. Sample the "ConTROLLer": :thumbup: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4266967/Building_the_ConTrollR...#Post4266967 Others: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4074653/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4074653 http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4212785/Re:_MMJoy/MMjoy2_-_Build_your_#Post4212785 http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4205863/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4205863 http://www.avsim.su/forum/topic/137754-thrustmaster-tflight-hotas-x-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%BC%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D0%B2%D0%BD%D1%83%D1%82%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B9-%D0%B4%D0%B0%D1%82%D1%87%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B8-%D1%85%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BB%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%B4%D1%88/ https://forum.warthunder.ru/index.php?/topic/64234-mjoy-mjoy8-mjoy16-mmjoy/?p=4957114 http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2668-mmjoy2-i-cobram5/page-5#entry376173 http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4035759/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4035759 http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?p=28236#p28236 For the landing gear lever, depends on your DIY skill you can make ones more "sophisticated" than use a ON-OF-ON switch. http://www.mycockpit.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13740 [ame] [/ame] 3D printable knob. http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/Landing-Gear-Lever/4351404 Edited August 9, 2016 by Sokol1_br
FSFIan Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) what should my shopping list be? - Arduino leonardo - Physical buttons and switches then what? what tools will i need to merge these cables with switches and board, can i install the cables with hand or a special tool? Wire, about AWG 24 to AWG 30, preferably solid core instead of stranded, but just about any kind will do. A soldering iron. If you don't want to spend much, $10 to $20 will get you a basic unregulated soldering iron, a small amount of solder, and one of those "solder sucker" pumps for desoldering. It's fine for soldering a few panels, but it's crap compared to a proper temperature-regulated soldering station. I'd recommend getting a soldering station from a quality brand. It will last you several decades. Which brand to get will depend on where you live. In the US, a common choice for hobbyists seems to be the Hakko FX-888 for about $100. Get a brand that has local distributors, so you can easily get a replacement tip 10 or 20 years in the future. Solder. If your soldering iron doesn't come with a small amount already, get a roll of 63/37 (63% tin, 37% lead) leaded solder, 0.8 to 0.4mm in diameter, the thinner the better. Leaded solder is much easier to work with than lead-free stuff. If you want to use lead-free solder, definitely get a temperature-adjustable soldering station. You need a wire cutter to cut and strip wires. There is no need for a separate tool to strip wires, it's more convenient to use the wire cutter anyway because after cutting the wire to length, it's already in your hand so you might as well use it for the next step. A multimeter to check your work. Not strictly necessary, but very useful. For basic low voltage electronics work, I recommend the sub-$20 UT136B. For soldering tutorials and further information aimed at beginners, check out the EEVblog YouTube channel. Start with . You won't need most of the things mentioned in there, but there is lots of good information in there. EDIT: For testing things before you solder everything together, grab a solderless breadboard. Sturdy solid core wire can plug directly into the breadboard. If you use an Arduino Leonardo, get pre-made male to male jumper wires as well, they connect better to the female connectors on the Leonardo board. A Pro Micro can plug directly into your breadboard after you have soldered on the pin headers it comes with. Edited August 9, 2016 by [FSF]Ian DCS-BIOS | How to export CMSP, RWR, etc. through MonitorSetup.lua
X93355 Posted August 10, 2016 Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) ebabil, define budget solutions? You can probably make one for around $55 USD. With room to grow. Se THIS thread to see what the options are. Also, check out what HEGYKC is doing in the F18 replica thread. hsb Excellent, I wasn't sure that Hegy was doing one, thanks for the info Hansan. Edit : Is that in the F18 Grip thread? Edited August 10, 2016 by X93355 InWin S Frame with Asus Z170 | i7-6700K @ 4.5 Water Cooled CPU and Graphics | 16GB DDR4 | GTX1070 | 240GB M.2 SSD | Warthog Hotas | MFG Crosswind | 40" Samsung 4K | CV1 | Replica MB Mk10 Ejection Seat with Gametrix 908
hansangb Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 Excellent, I wasn't sure that Hegy was doing one, thanks for the info Hansan. Edit : Is that in the F18 Grip thread? Yes, that's the thread. He posted pictures of B17 based button boxes. hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
hansangb Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 what should my shopping list be? - Arduino leonardo - Physical buttons and switches then what? what tools will i need to merge these cables with switches and board, can i install the cables with hand or a special tool? See the thread mentioned. You can pay slightly more so that you don't *have* to solder if you're not comfortable with it. It's not that hard, but again, it's a matter of personal choice. For boards like GP-WIZ or Bodner, or DSD boards, there is not programming required to get it to work, And technically, you don't even need to modify the LUA files. You can go to control settings and it the button/switch in the KEY BINDINGs setup menu. However, you will need to edit the LUA file if you want on/off/on behavior. The GUI config of DCS seems to only recognize ON/OFF behavior. I will write up the Bodnar board review this weekend. It shipped the very next day! You can't complain about that! hsb hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
Sokol1_br Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) However, you will need to edit the LUA file if you want on/off/on behavior. The GUI config of DCS seems to only recognize ON/OFF behavior. And if for some reason don't want edit LUA can use SVMapper (Joy2Key, XPadder) to send keypress in switch ON and in OFF positions (mapped key on press, mapped key on release). :thumbup: http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/technical-guide.html Good controller option for start a "button box" (35$ free shipping): http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/32-button-no-matrix-controller.html This type of ON-OFF-ON switch is a bit more expensive than ordinary ones, but good option for landing gear control, as need be pulled for unlock and move for other position. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2013LL1W01/360-1809-ND/1006888 http://spemco.com/639h-2-3v-locking-security-toggle-on-off-on/ http://spemco.com/8536k91e-environmentally-sealed-locking-toggle-solder-terminals/ http://www.alliedelec.com/honeywell-1tl1-1e/70118886/ In Digikey options from 3$ to 300$+ :crazy: Edited August 11, 2016 by Sokol1_br
ebabil Posted August 11, 2016 Author Posted August 11, 2016 are you talking about this? http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=204 an with other model, this guy seems not to have used solder [ame] [/ame] i just want to use a modular system, which one should i buy? FC3 | UH-1 | Mi-8 | A-10C II | F/A-18 | Ka-50 III | F-14 | F-16 | AH-64 | Mi-24 | F-5 | F-15E| F-4| Tornado Persian Gulf | Nevada | Syria | NS-430 | Supercarrier // Wishlist: CH-53 | UH-60 Youtube MS FFB2 - TM Warthog - CH Pro Pedals - Trackir 5
Sokol1_br Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 I will not say it's impossible to make a button box without using solder, but it will be more difficult than learning to use a 5$. This more expensive board BU0836X (cost ~twice for same functions) with snap in connectors for wires solve only 1/2 half of connection problem. Their real advantage is avoid use diodes - in diode matrix, what is difficult to understand, but easy do make after understand. :D BU0836X make easy attach wires in then, but remain the need of attach wires in switches, push buttons, encoder, rotary switch, etc - usually done with... solder. ;) Make a "switch box" implies doing DIY, which implies having skill and tools ;) BTW - Using any kind of controller board you should not make solder in controller pins - can damage the board - instead make plugs with 2,5mm pitch connectors and plug in the board pins. Cables with 2.54 pitch connector assembled: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2-54mm-20cm-Dupont-wire-cable-2p-2p-pin-Connector-For-Arduino-Female-Femal-/180912695936?hash=item2a1f3caa80:m:mtTo9qVw-lxDvnSpReCe3EQ http://www.ebay.com/itm/40cm-40-Pin-40-Way-F-F-Connector-IDC-Flat-Rainbow-Ribbon-Jumper-Cable-/122070042843?hash=item1c6bf108db:g:ngMAAOSwhOdXoISV http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-XH2-54-Dupont-Wire-Cable-2-54mm-20cm-Female-to-Female-Connector-2P-/381728200417?hash=item58e0c616e1:g:SXUAAOSwoudW6kU2 Or use this 2.54 pitch 40 pins bar to make your plugs (female, male), cut in needed size (2, 3, 6...). http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-Single-row-straight-male-female-pin-header-40Pins-/161332099936?hash=item2590247b60:g:BbcAAMXQDfdRyAf6 L.Bodnar BU0836A come with plugs made by sections of the above connector bar: Solder cables in their pins and use heat shrink tube to isolate/reinforce. :thumbup:
Lausbub78 Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) Don't be afraid of using a soldering iron. My first buttonbox I was thinking like you....I tried to avoid any soldering as much as possible because I simply thought it was complicated and time consuming. Now I see things different, I quite like using my soldering iron now. My skill is not perfect, but I saw improvements over time. Though I still avoid soldering on small areas for now,like on controller boards. BTW BU0836X is easy to work with, I used it on my first project. Edited August 11, 2016 by Lausbub78
313_Nevo Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) I just did some DIY stuff recently (dont ask) using soldering iron (some very old iron) and it was nightmare.. with first two-three wires. The last two wires were really no prob. I really need new soldering iron :D and little bit more spare time to continue with my DIY ambitious planes :smartass: EDIT: 'Cables with 2.54 pitch connector assembled' why you didnt mention it earlier??? ;) Edited August 11, 2016 by 313_Nevo
FraserNZL Posted August 13, 2016 Posted August 13, 2016 I use my g27 gear shifter for flaps and gear. Simple yet effective
Mr_Burns Posted August 13, 2016 Posted August 13, 2016 50 bucks sounds ok for a flap and gear switc panel. i have no talent about electronics so i don't think that i can make one for myself. but i would really like to do. in fact , i see lots of button boxes for race simmers on internet. for some reason, flight simmers don't seem to be interested in this. Mate, by the time you have followed a few threads you will have learned a new talent, take a look in the home cockpit thread, tigershark has a sticky, it's simple. I haven't tried Arduino yet, have you any old USB joysticks knocking about?
Sokol1_br Posted August 13, 2016 Posted August 13, 2016 in fact , i see lots of button boxes for race simmers on internet. for some reason, flight simmers don't seem to be interested in this. See some "flight" button box around, like this, but is not too different than ones for racing: http://www.letiaga.ru/home/panel-vvoda But with specific landing gear switch only this linked GoFlight, or some Boeing 737 models.
FeistyLemur Posted August 13, 2016 Posted August 13, 2016 (edited) Build a toggle switch panel with 2 and 3 way toggles. This makes a good multi purpose sim solution. You could look into Leo Bodnar boards as well for this. Here's a picture of mine cause I never miss an opportunity to show it off. Edited August 13, 2016 by FeistyLemur
Recommended Posts