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18 month old TM Warthog and three buttons are not working.


leadlag
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Invested alot of money in this stick and now finding myself onto TM support who are sending me three replacement buttons which are on all the time.

 

Anyone else had this?

 

For a quality product I did not expect to have to do this after 18 months service!

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Internal wiring is pretty poor, if I'm honest. It's possible that something got pinched etc.

 

Are you saying the replacement switches are always "on"?

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

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i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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Are you sure it is actually the buttons that have failed?

 

I had button #3 on my TM joystick (pinky switch) fail after about three years. It was actually showing "on" all the time.

 

I took it apart, removed the button and found it was functioning correctly. I even replaced the button and got the same fault. I took the stick apart further to check for rubbed or pinched wires but found all was good. I therefore narrowed it down to either the PCB in the joystick grip (less likely) or the IC mounted on that PCB (more likely IMHO).

 

I put it down to either IC failure over time, or possibly the result of occasional static shocks I received when I initially touched the stick from time to time. I'm just guessing on this though.

 

Luckily, being button #3, it was easy enough to reassign those functions to another button with a modifier. With three buttons gone though, that is not really a workable solution for you.

 

Hopefully it is just faulty buttons, which is a fairly easy fix. However, with three buttons gone (at the same time (?) and all showing "on," my money is unfortunately on something a little more sinister. Hope you get it sorted.


Edited by Phantom453
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Invested alot of money in this stick and now finding myself onto TM support who are sending me three replacement buttons which are on all the time.

 

Anyone else had this?

 

For a quality product I did not expect to have to do this after 18 months service!

 

I had my TM Warthog in the box for a year before I built a new computer. I was new to scripting and could not figure out why the S4 button did not work in the shifted state. It seemed to cause issues with the sim whenever I enabled it.

 

I eventually tried the event tester and noticed that S4 did not turn off like the other buttons. TM eventually sent me a new button. It finally works.

 

FYI - there are tabs on the side of the button that you need to depress in order to remove it by pushing it out.

 

Good luck!

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Sorry guys, should of been more specific.

 

One button on the throttle shows on,one button the stick shows on, One works intermittently which is the launch button. Causes embarrassing launches!

 

I took the stick apart and found the wires to the red launch button stretched.

 

TM are a pain to deal with. 17 emails since beginning of December.They seem to answer one email a day if your lucky. To cap they have sent the wrong button and want photo evidence.

 

Have started to replace buttons like for like but maybe I should replace with better buttons if I can find.

 

Annoying they cut corners on something so important.


Edited by leadlag
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In my experience if the wires get shorted or disconnected inside the base of the stick nothing works at all. In the case of mine, I had it apart for greasing and this happened, the stick got thrown into bootloader mode and after re-soldering the connector in the base I had to fix the firmware as well.

 

I would suspect the buttons themselves unless wiring inside the grip has come loose.

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I took it apart, removed the button and found it was functioning correctly. I even replaced the button and got the same fault. I took the stick apart further to check for rubbed or pinched wires but found all was good. I therefore narrowed it down to either the PCB in the joystick grip (less likely) or the IC mounted on that PCB (more likely IMHO).

 

 

Just add. Are the Omrons easy? I.e is it obvious which wire solders to what?

 

Can you get replacement board plugs and wires and if so what are they called?

 

 

 

Request a new Shift Register PCB from Tm.

Is possible too make one DIY - see Debolestis topic.

 

How wire OMRON B3F switches - they have 4 legs but are interconnected inside 2 in 2, so is just matter to solder wires in 2 legs not opposite, or in same side.

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3007786&postcount=248


Edited by Sokol1_br
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The solder connections are pretty frail and encapsulated in hot-gue as a cheap strain relief. It's pretty common to disturb those connections by opening it up, as is pinching one or more wires by getting the articulation sphere in backwards during a re-grease.

 

The micro switches inside the 4-ways are cheap but last a very long time, they use Alps instead of Omron but in the single buttons and the bottom of the 5-way is where they use -awful- membrane tact switches. I can easily see those getting tired and quitting, but not the ones in the 4-way bodies. If so, you can do a direct replacement of the tact switch itself or upgrade to ones like the 4-ways. The only mod needed would be shortening the plunger inside the button to accommodate the taller switch replacing the flat membrane one.

 

If it's a tact inside the 4-way, they are 6x6x4.3mm tact, 260g force and any brand will do but Omrons are nicer than Alps. You snip 2 of the 4 legs off and bend the other 2 90deg to poke out the bottom, which is where they solder.

 

It's most likely a wire, second to that the switch itself. Rarely are these problems the board though, but it's not unheard of.

 

Easy enough to test though, because all the switches inside use microJST 1.25 plugs so you can swap known good buttons to suspect sockets on the board to isolate whether the problem is the board, or a wire/switch.

 

edit: here's a nice guide to the wires inside Warthog, handy thing to have around: http://imgur.com/a/4WeVW#0


Edited by Thadiun Okona
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