NightShiftNinja Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi Gotwake, about to go on vacation, I'll look into this when I return. cheers JohnSounds good, enjoy your vacation, if you do not want to mass produce I will try to figure out how to build this myself. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Thanks Gotwake, if I don't I'll show you how to make them from vero, it's seriously not difficult. All traces are horizontal with a few solder bridges. Sounds good, enjoy your vacation, if you do not want to mass produce I will try to figure out how to build this myself. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59thCasper Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 morning, loving your work, very new to nearly all of this custom stuff. do you have any digrams just using the nano? want to make my first box just want to make sure i review a few multi switch designs so i get it right :) 59th | Casper [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Our Website | Our Facebook Page | YouTube Channel | Our Discord System : 9900k 5ghz, 32GB 4166mhz Ram, 2080Ti, Hotas Warthog, Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswinds, VR + TrackIR, All Modules For DCS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Hi! Very simple with just a single Nano. You can omit the Bus Transceiver and wiring. Just need to have a common ground for your switches and a +5V for one of your POT pins. Both of these are connected to the GND and +5V pins of the Nano. For your switch GND lines, daisy-chain them all together so you only need a single pin to connect to the Arduino. If you need any further clarification let me know. cheers John morning, loving your work, very new to nearly all of this custom stuff. do you have any digrams just using the nano? want to make my first box just want to make sure i review a few multi switch designs so i get it right :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RightStuff Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 ...do you have any digrams just using the nano? What about flipping just one page back? :music_whistling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59thCasper Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 What about flipping just one page back? :music_whistling: i ment without the buss stuff, i saved those diagrams already ;) 59th | Casper [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Our Website | Our Facebook Page | YouTube Channel | Our Discord System : 9900k 5ghz, 32GB 4166mhz Ram, 2080Ti, Hotas Warthog, Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswinds, VR + TrackIR, All Modules For DCS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwpenney Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Hi Gotwake, about to go on vacation, I'll look into this when I return. cheers John Same here :-) Fridge ---------- Things which do you no good in aviation: 1) Altitude above you; 2) Runway behind you; 3) Fuel in the truck; 4) The airspeed you don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Found the issue tonight with the "EMERGENCY_PARKING_BRAKE_ROTATE" command not working. The ringbuffer in the slave and master headers is set to 32, it needs to be increased to accommodate the longer commands. I've increased mine to 48. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) Small update, created new side car to handle the canopy control and the FCS BIT switch. These vertical modules have been updated to allow them to be run up along the side of the standard modules. The last photo shows how they're connected. Undershot that shows how the modules are connected together. cheers John Edited March 2, 2019 by Blue73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Burns Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 This is really fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Thanks Mr_Burns, it's not very realistic but it's in the approx position. This is really fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxDelta Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Outstanding work! especially the front left console with gear lever and jettison knob, man i want to have this thing. Bcause i am making an av8 lever atm , how did u mount your creations to the warthog, i saw those clamps in your first post but how are these mounted to the throttle? my projects: https://www.sim-addons.com/ https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sim-addons-1 AV8B nozzle lever https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=233670 F18C fingerlifts https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=234747 F18C radar elevation https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=248080 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 3, 2019 Author Share Posted March 3, 2019 Thanks FoxDelta! I saw your 3d model this morning, I was wondering how it hooked into the Warthog, waiting for follow up posts :) On mine the side modules mounting pegs are sandwiched between the two metal plates of the warthog. Sections are dovetailed into each other and the existing screws are long enough to pass through the extra thickness. I have two main mounting peg types, both are shown below. cheers John Outstanding work! especially the front left console with gear lever and jettison knob, man i want to have this thing. Bcause i am making an av8 lever atm , how did u mount your creations to the warthog, i saw those clamps in your first post but how are these mounted to the throttle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxDelta Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 that looks quite perfect, might i borrow this idea from u? i think i have to add something additional on the top part for stability, might use those two screws there as well. thx for your picture my projects: https://www.sim-addons.com/ https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sim-addons-1 AV8B nozzle lever https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=233670 F18C fingerlifts https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=234747 F18C radar elevation https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=248080 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Go for it! that looks quite perfect, might i borrow this idea from u? i think i have to add something additional on the top part for stability, might use those two screws there as well. thx for your picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Burns Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Thanks Mr_Burns, it's not very realistic but it's in the approx position. I am in the close enough camp, I dont have the choice not to be due to the two left hands and inability to cut straight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Small update, created new side car to handle the canopy control and the FCS BIT switch. These vertical modules have been updated to allow them to be run up along the side of the standard modules. The last photo shows how they're connected. Undershot that shows how the modules are connected together. cheers John Hey Blue73, I was wondering if you are printing the boxes in ABS? I am sorry if its been posted already. I was trying to cruise thru the thread from start to finish but I gave up at page 6. Any ways if you are I was curious what settings are you using? I have been struggling to print ABS. And I been noticing your prints are really good and looks like there are no flaws and seem to have no clean up or clean up real nice. But when you get chance I like to hear your setup which brand of plastic and what slicer? Thanks! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BottledViolence Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Are you printing the panels flat on the build surface? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwpenney Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 My understanding from previous posts in the thread is that he is using ABS with and acetone vapour cleaning. I need to get an enclosure for my Ender 3 before I can get to ABS printing :-) Fridge ---------- Things which do you no good in aviation: 1) Altitude above you; 2) Runway behind you; 3) Fuel in the truck; 4) The airspeed you don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Hi Brewnix, No cleanup and I've only vapor bathed the control knobs on the right hand side. Yes printing with ABS, generally 0.19mm layer height. The top section of this box was at 0.14mm. The top 2mm plate was printed as a separate flat on the bed. The Zortrax printer is made to print ABS, I pry the parts of the bed, remove the supports and assemble. cheers John Hey Blue73, I was wondering if you are printing the boxes in ABS? I am sorry if its been posted already. I was trying to cruise thru the thread from start to finish but I gave up at page 6. Any ways if you are I was curious what settings are you using? I have been struggling to print ABS. And I been noticing your prints are really good and looks like there are no flaws and seem to have no clean up or clean up real nice. But when you get chance I like to hear your setup which brand of plastic and what slicer? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Hi, Yes they're all flat on the bed. Are you printing the panels flat on the build surface? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Hi Brewnix, No cleanup and I've only vapor bathed the control knobs on the right hand side. Yes printing with ABS, generally 0.19mm layer height. The top section of this box was at 0.14mm. The top 2mm plate was printed as a separate flat on the bed. The Zortrax printer is made to print ABS, I pry the parts of the bed, remove the supports and assemble. cheers John Ok Thanks! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) Sorry I didn't answer all your questions, I buy my ABS plastic from here, https://3dfillies.com/abs-filament-175mm-1kg/ The slicer is Zortrax's Z-Suite. It's worth investing in a decent printer to avoid being caught up with printer issues. I CAD the design during the day/evening and before I go to bed I set the printer going, by morning it's usually complete. My cheap Chinese printer before it was a right pain, I wasted weeks trying to get a consistently good print. In the end out of sheer frustration I bought the M200, around 2000+hours printing time later it's still going strong. The only maintenance is three nozzle changes. The amount of time saved easily justifies the price. cheers John Ok Thanks! Edited March 5, 2019 by Blue73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Sorry I didn't answer all your questions, I buy my ABS plastic from here, https://3dfillies.com/abs-filament-175mm-1kg/ The slicer is Zortrax's Z-Suite. It's worth investing in a decent printer to avoid being caught up with printer issues. I CAD the design during the day/evening and before I go to bed I set the printer going, by morning it's usually complete. My cheap Chinese printer before it was a right pain, I wasted weeks trying to get a consistently good print. In the end out of sheer frustration I bought the M200, around 2000+hours printing time later it's still going strong. The only maintenance is three nozzle changes. The amount of time saved easily justifies the price. cheers John No problem. I appreciate your time. Man there is truth to that statement. I have had good luck with my Anycubic. But I did buy it expecting the worse that the controller board wouldn't work when I got it. And would have to upgrade some thing. I bought it for 300 bucks thinking if it didn't work I would have a semi working chassis I could manipulate a fairly good board in it. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Switch625 Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Did you look into making your own custom pcb with arduino and RS485 combined on a single board? Just wondering because you're using a lot of Nanos and building a lot of MAX487 boards. The nanos can get expensive. I know you can reduce the cost of Arduino by building them yourself. Although i'm not really sure by how much and if its worth it, especially if you're ordering custom PCBs. Just curious if you looked at this route at all, and considered time/performance/complexity/cost/size trade offs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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