F18C warthog HOTAS fingerlift MOD

F18 fingerlift MOD for the WARTHOG HOTAS

I ordered my MODs parts from a 3d printing service printed in MJF NYLON.

My original MOD (invasive with the need to drill holes into your hotas) will remain online free to download.

Just because several people asked, and i have been shocked regarding 3d printer service prices for a single set, i decided to do collective orders and offer them to anyone interested.

I set up a SHOP to make handling of the orders easier and less time intense for me as spare parts and paypal handling is way more convenient that way.

RESTOCK COMING SOON https://www.sim-addons.com/

email: contact@sim-addons.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgoKDER5GRIi6ttNfWfocyw

Installation inctructions

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6zwkl4xy83n48cp/AAD0d7StY1G6M9EMP0emVK0ya?dl=0

this MOD is made of NYLON because a full metal version is not doable at an affordable price, plastics can brake so don t be way to rough with them, i use mine(invasive ones) now for nearly a year and they are still alive:smilewink:

flexibility test where i try to brake one

other vids regarding mounting and behavior

UPDATE 11.11.2019

shipment is always and only done mondays,

as i just learned diffrent batches of Thrustmasters HOTAS are not exactly accurate in dimensions, and or the built in fingerlift noses are often worn out i suggest to start mounting my MOD without trying to find the sweetspot for pushtrough (as shown in the video).

(of course u can sand or trim the leading edges of the fingerlifts noses so they raise themselves easier for pushtrough, at your own risk)

UPDATE 13.11.2019

please take care when mounting the clamps, left side comes together till touching, but the RIGHT SIDE NOT there will remain a gap. Tighten the screws only till the clamps stay in place. Be careful. please.

I added a photo of the clamps from behind.

UPDATE 15.11.2019

suggest to add some friction to your hotas to avoid pushing it forward too hard/fast

UPDATE 14.01.2019

added the noninvasive V1 files, be aware that printing those files with a FDM printer is quite hard if not impossible, ordering from a printing company will be quite expensive

i will start to do a Version2 this weekend, so anyone interested into V2 can send me a mail and i will put him onto my list, when there are enough interested to get a reasonable price i will come back to you then

OLD POST

PROJECT is FINISHED

check below

[Hi trying to do a F18 fingerlift MOD ,3d printed, for the WARTHOG HOTAS now, used to prevent me from activating the AB unintended (i know that this Fingerlifts are used for IDLE-CUTOFF,AB and AB can be done with pushthrough as well).

this is the progress thread for it, i expect this to be finished till end of march]

__________________

my projects:

AV8B

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=233670

F18C

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=234747

files and instructions

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/9wz0cizsj6cc0w6/AABKLdCXbucvjYUUsw8COXuwa?dl=0

added the Gcode as well but be aware Gcode is always very printer specific i would not recommend to use mine, STL files are included of course

DISCLAIMER: appplying this MOD will definately VOID your WARRANTY, be aware!

all parts are again divided into "EVERYONE can print that" parts, so u should have no troubles printing them,

NO ELECTRONICS NEEDED

most parts do need supports !!! and .. align them intelligent when slicing, i used PLA.

I own a GEEETECH A10 which is quite good for its price.

If you use a printing service u will get a nicer surface and better movement. Ideally the rail parts should be made of metal, the fingerlifts of plastics.

for the springs i used a rollerpen s , u will need some screws, which i got from an old harddrive and other parts i am sure u will find some applicable.

look at the photos carefully, for the drilling u SHALL disassemble the levers (see the pictures, just the inner panels, no need to open the HOTAS itself) because of the wiring behind the levers fronts. BE CAREFULLY when applying these holes (template is included to meet the perfect distance as this is essential for a smooth movement).

i am not a professional constructor , this was my second more complicated project, i used FUSION360.

u might have to cut some parts for better fitting, mine fitted quite well

video showing functionality

with better lighting, when i am not speaking the autogain goes insane, sorry for that

in DCS u have to apply a custom curve under "axis settings" to meet the exact detent positions.

( Do not calibrate your hotas after applying this mod, use the custom curves setting under dcs. If you calibrate it under windows the button 29/30 wont work till u calibrate again without the mod mounted.

If you don t mind a correct idle/off behaviour u may calibrate it under windows, then no custom curves will be needed. )

Assign buttons 29 and 30 to to the corresponding engine START/STOP (idle/off) to get a realistic behaviour as in the video. Because of the newly designed detent, both hotas levers remain lifted for their whole travel way and when raising the fingerlifts and moving the levers to the off position button29/30 get recognized. there is no need to lift the levers itself anymore, just the fingerlifts.

have fun

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=LT5HG625K52DA&source=url

if someone wants to sponsor my next projects filament:music_whistling:

__________________

my projects:

AV8B

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=233670

F18C

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=234747

.

Good luck with a most interesting project ! This doubtless could be a major enhancement to the WH .

do you ever sleep mate?

Do you not find that the inbuilt AB detent works?

I don't think I've ever engaged AB unintentionally since I did the mod to sand the edge of the gate down a bit so I can push through it.

Do you not find that the inbuilt AB detent works?

 

I don't think I've ever engaged AB unintentionally since I did the mod to sand the edge of the gate down a bit so I can push through it.

but its not as cool!

checking the measurements

testing and refining the return mechanism, using again a rollerpen s spring, looks okay so far

Awesome. Maybe I didnt need my new printed push-through detent after all... :D

Then we are just missing a radar elevation wheel... Looks like there might be some space between the trottles... :music_whistling:

Awesome. Maybe I didnt need my new printed push-through detent after all... :D

 

Then we are just missing a radar elevation wheel... Looks like there might be some space between the trottles... :music_whistling:

yah already thought about adding something there, but i don t want to have to use an additional usb board just for one single function, and i am still a bit unsure wether this acts as a scroll wheel or more like a 3pos switch

on my super hornet grip its an analog axis that is spring loaded center.

You can see it on the side of the scan, it just uses a torsion spring

https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/super-hornet-f-18-right-grip-raw-scan-f7ffedac0b5f478986f36e093842e77a

(this is from a simulator and not an actual jet, so who knows if it's different)

on my super hornet grip its an analog axis that is spring loaded center.

 

You can see it on the side of the scan, it just uses a torsion spring

https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/super-hornet-f-18-right-grip-raw-scan-f7ffedac0b5f478986f36e093842e77a

 

(this is from a simulator and not an actual jet, so who knows if it's different)

thx for this, i guess thats as it is in the f18c as well, at least looks like on some photos i saw,

i might do a mod for this later, if i will do i most likely will use 2 buttons of the base for this.

polishing the return mechanism

unfortunately it looks like my EXTRUDER FEEDER arm broke and i have to order a new one, hopefully shipping time is not too long :(

i will try to continue and refine the design but without the printer i am unable to construct a fitting DETENT for the warthog , meanwhile i am taking the days thinking of how this detent should be done!?!

as far as i am now these fingerlifts will allow to prevent from activating the AB and IDLE OFF will also be implemented as in the real A/C by lifting these.

AB pushthrough make this now a little bit complicated (if i don t just let the lifts-detents slip over)

the mounting design is done as well and as soon as i have a working printer again i will mount those 2 fingerlifts to have actual measurements for the detent

Remove the AB-detent insert completly. Remove the cover.

Design a replacement cover, mounted with the original screws, which functions as a rail for the fingerlift with the correctly positioned detents?

Would be the closest thing to the real thing, but might be a bit to much friction for a 3d printed part? The rail would need to be a low friction surface.

Remove the AB-detent insert completly. Remove the cover.

Design a replacement cover, mounted with the original screws, which functions as a rail for the fingerlift with the correctly positioned detents?

 

Would be the closest thing to the real thing, but might be a bit to much friction for a 3d printed part? The rail would need to be a low friction surface.

i cant remove the detent completly because i need an extended WH detent to lift the levers to make them travel till idle-off without te need to lift them.

AB and idle is already done by a detent i didn t post here already.

but the pushtrough into AB could also be done by a spring loaded detent construction i am thinking of at the moment.

thx for your advices i always want to hear others opinions and ideas regarding this here

here u can see the detent as it is at the moment, i will further modify it to meet the holes for the screws of the cover there

the front section stops the fingerlifts,

the rear one as well,

after lifting them u can put the levers to engine OFF/start which is assignable in the F18 control settings, and working like a charm

the printer is still offline so i had some time drilling the holes and mounting one of the prototype lifts to the HOTAS, enjoy

Awesome!

You should stop modding your throttle... Make a new one ;)

Think of all the kinks of the Thrustmaster Throttle you could fix in one single project.

In all seriousness... Looking good.:thumbup:

You should stop modding your throttle... Make a new one ;)

Think of all the kinks of the Thrustmaster Throttle you could fix in one single project.

 

In all seriousness... Looking good.:thumbup:

but those 2 mods will u cost just ~10bucks each, if u own a 3d printer :smilewink:

I have my fingers crossed Fox will do a side plate mod so we can install authentic F-18 switches. ������

i am sorry disappointing you, but i won t , those switches are soldered on a platine an do needmore work to modify then just printing a few parts.

in short , sorry no:pilotfly:

It wouldn’t be a simple mod and would require using a separate I/O card. The photos I have of the F-18 throttle show a braided cable running down the right throttle arm into the base. Had to try to plant the seed. Lol

short update.

printer is up again and doing the final fingerlift parts.

regarding the detent i will go the easy way so no pushthrough,

just afterburner and idle/off

i will start finetuning the detent tomorrow, so if nothing brake this will be finished this week.