Сollective pitch control lever

[MAXsenna]

Swap the pots? joy.cpl?
I am but a humble stick and throttle jockey, I know not of what you speak

As far as I know, the collective axis use a magnetic sensor, while the twist throttle and the wheel on the side uses potentiometers. If they are faulty, they need to be swapped out. Though, thinking about it, it's more likely some faulty connection, if they stopped working at the same time.
The buttons/switches, they do work correctly? I'll read that part again, because if they don't, all could be related.
Joy.cpl is the Windows joystick control panel. Just press the left Win key on your keyboard and start typing joystick and the app for joysticks and game controllers should show. Start it and compare with the Virpil app. What that app sees is what DCS sees to my knowledge.
Are you sure the firmware update was successful?
Cheers!

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

[Phil73805]

On 2/16/2025 at 8:10 PM, MAXsenna said:

As far as I know, the collective axis use a magnetic sensor, while the twist throttle and the wheel on the side uses potentiometers. If they are faulty, they need to be swapped out. Though, thinking about it, it's more likely some faulty connection, if they stopped working at the same time.
The buttons/switches, they do work correctly? I'll read that part again, because if they don't, all could be related.
Joy.cpl is the Windows joystick control panel. Just press the left Win key on your keyboard and start typing joystick and the app for joysticks and game controllers should show. Start it and compare with the Virpil app. What that app sees is what DCS sees to my knowledge.
Are you sure the firmware update was successful?
Cheers!

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk
 

All I know is that in the Virpil software all the buttons are working as they should but not in Windows and DCS.

[ashBaal]

update from me:
received the package today. so it took a week from Russia to Canada (and we had a huge snowstorm and a long weekend to boot). No extra tax or custom to be paid either.

First the packaging was top tier! Extremely well wrapped and packaged.
Then I unpacked it, connected the cable provided, launched DCS and it just works right there. Nothing else to do.

The buttons are good quality and the collective itself is great to use for up and down motion and to twist the throttle.

Highly recommend, thank you Mikhail

Edit: if anyone with an ikea markus is on the fence, you can cobble a quick L-bracket adapter for like 20 cad. My setup now looks like this: 

Edited February 23 by ashBaal
Added picture of final mounted product

[Phil73805]

I only asked about whether you got a response because Mikhail seems to ignore my every attempt to get some assistance. Glad to hear he's still around.

[admiki]

It seems pot on my twist grip has gone bad.

But the thing that worries me is that I can sort it out with calibration and deadzones, but it would lose one end of calibration every time I shut down PC.

Since all settings are written on device itself, is it possible that electronics are going bad?

[nessuno0505]

@K-51

My twist grip axis seems to be dead. All the other axis and switches works regularly.

Do you have instructions on how to open the collective and check wires / potentiometer?

Owner of the original version, but I could be interested in buying one of the new ones if it's not fixable.

Thanks.

Edited April 10 by nessuno0505

[admiki]

Remove 4 top screws, then remove 4 front ones.

That's it, pot is inside the box. If you want, you can remove 2 connectors to give you more space to work.

Pot is held in place by 2 bottom srews, just pull it out from twist grip.

[nessuno0505]

Replaced the pots (even the one of the rotary has become a bit imprecise) with no efforts: very well built lever and very easy to DIY repair. A quick recalibration in windows and that's it. @K-51 this is the best cost-benefit ratio collective lever of the whole flight simulation community, kudos to you! 

Edited April 11 by nessuno0505

[admiki]

48 minutes ago, nessuno0505 said:

A quick recalibration in windows

Never do that.

Use Virpil software for any calibration.

[nessuno0505]

At a first sight that was a overly complicated piece of software, but after a second sight it seems to give a better calibration and it's not so difficult to use, thanks for the advice.

[Phil73805]

On 4/11/2025 at 5:58 PM, admiki said:

Never do that.

Use Virpil software for any calibration.

You just solved a problem I've had for a couple of months, I was having switches show up as buttons at the same time. This was because of the calibration profile in Windows. Once I deleted it, problem solved! Thank you!

[hipp55]

My K51 seems to have quit. It is not showing on the controls page.

I tried moving the usb to another port and restarting, no luck.

Any ideas sure would help.

Thanks.

 

[MAXsenna]

My K51 seems to have quit. It is not showing on the controls page.
I tried moving the usb to another port and restarting, no luck.
Any ideas sure would help.
Thanks.
 

Does Windows chime when you plug and unplug? If yes, you just might have to reflash/update the firmware. Exactly what happened to me.

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

[hipp55]

No chime

 

[admiki]

Also make sure it's not the cable that have gone bad.

[hipp55]

New cable Going to have  the little female part replaced

 

 

[hipp55]

Anyone know the  prices on the new models ?

[Rongor]

 any idea where to receive a replacement for this internal cable?

Edited May 9 by Rongor