Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!

[Triggerhappy69]

Sweet! Looking forward to seeing that collective brake!! :)

I was thinking of using a bicycle brake lever.. Did you make yours from scratch?

Also I'm very curious to how you'll build your pedals!!

I just 'almost sorta kinda' finnished my pedals, but they're more like classic airplane pedals with toe-brakes and all (will post some pics when I get hold of a camera ;) ).

 

 

 

Forgot about the pedals.. It's kinda on.. well... hold right now.? Becuase the new ones would be in the way of the ones I use now. And I spend a lot of time flying these days, so I just put it on ,, well.. hold for a while..

 

But I'd like to see pics of yours though? *Cause I can't seem to settle on a spesific idea..

 

Pics...!

 

Pics...!

 

Pics...!

[-sulan-]

Cool!

Hehe I'll get some pics up soon..

 

I'm not at all planning a whole cockpit like yours (currently ;) ), but I'll be building some panels I thinks.. So I was thinking about making a "pby-800-like" keypad, I think it'd be useful for alot of the DCS modules to come as well...

But I have'nt been able to find any suitable buttons, (square and with LED's and labels on them) at an acceptable price (have been looking at Elfa and Conrad..).

Where did you get yours? (The ones you have for the autopilot buttons, they looked very nice me thinks :) )..

[Alex_rcpilot]

Youre so right.. I have ordered 5 Volt Reed relays that will replace the 12V ones.

 

The wierd thing is that the 12V relay from Hamlin will not trigger on a 5V current. But the one from MEDER will?

 

Hmmmm...? Diodes..! I completely forgot about those.. I'll have ANOTHER look at my PCB's and update if needed.. But please do keep telling me these things..! Remeber I am a complete NOOB at electronics and these are my very first PCB boards.. (I have a neeking suspisious feeling they will not be my last though):music_whistling:

 

Well it's possible, I'd say that reflects better electro-mechanical characterstics of the Hamlin relay, because it's not supposed to do anything with 5V input. MEDER relays may not cut off as efficiently as those from Hamlin when they're switched off.

 

Keep working on electronics and all other stuff you're interested in. I see you're doing an excellent job putting them together, it's a skill a lotta people don't have. I will certainly assist when needed. Good luck.

[Triggerhappy69]

But I have'nt been able to find any suitable buttons, (square and with LED's and labels on them) at an acceptable price (have been looking at Elfa and Conrad..).

Where did you get yours? (The ones you have for the autopilot buttons, they looked very nice me thinks :) )..

 

Here's what I'll be using:

I sendt an email to MEC Switches in Denmark and they supplied me with the norwegian distributor. AND a brochure with all they're switches.

The one in the lower left corner is backlighted with different colors. And the bezel is see-through so you can stick a printed sheet behind it. Also they have support frames in a 5x5 pattern for the RDF panel or the overhead panel. the bezel is 14,2x14,2mm so It should look sweet in size

 

Check them out on http://www.mec.dk

 

Well it's possible, I'd say that reflects better electro-mechanical characterstics of the Hamlin relay, because it's not supposed to do anything with 5V input. MEDER relays may not cut off as efficiently as those from Hamlin when they're switched off.

 

Keep working on electronics and all other stuff you're interested in. I see you're doing an excellent job putting them together, it's a skill a lotta people don't have. I will certainly assist when needed. Good luck.

 

Oh I will my friend ..I will..! And I'll keep picking your mind for info to:cry:.. LoL

 

BTW.. Did get to go see your girlfriend? I hope all is well..?

 

 

As far as my own pitbuilding goes, I have finished soldering the APU panels switches now. And made and painted the switch-extenders. Just a bit of details like the colored rings around the top right pushbutton, and it will be 100% done!

 

The R-800 panel has undergone some changes. It's now 10mm wider and higher. And the PCB for it will be etched tomorrow. (I made an attempt on making it as neat as Alex Rc's PCB, and failed misserably). I'll post pics of both the ruined one:doh: and the new tomorrow.

 

The brake system on the collective is another work-in-progress. I will be using brakes from a montainbike. But have'nt decided on the mechanics for transferring the force from the handle to the brakes yet.

 

The Rotor Speed governor handles next to the collective stick have also been changed. Now the two handles are moved as one (as seen in the startup video). No point in making things more complex than they need to be. And again pics have been taken, but not uploaded yet.

 

Pedals... Well.... I want them to look like the real thing.. And have Force-Trim mechanics incorparated into them. So They have been put on hold until I have finished the...

 

Trigger mecanism: This will be a joy for me to make.. I'll be making the mechanism as true to life as I possibly can. It will be hand made out of sheets of hard 4mm aluminum. A see a lot of time with my trusty Dremel here. But I just know it will be worth in the end..

The drawings will be finished tomorrow. and posted here..!

[Triggerhappy69]

31. may 2008. Update on Rotor speed Governor box

 

Rotor Speed Governor Box is officially done as far as the main mechanics go!

 

I still have to make the "curtain" that slide over it as you move the handles up and down, but that is not high on my list as of right now.

 

Changes:

- changed the front guiding plate to allow the handles to move a little less up and down.

- Now both handles move as one.

- finished drawings..

 

 

 

 

Someone asked for drawings a little while ago. Although I have forgotten who it was. Now the drawings are done, so if you want them just PM me and I'll send it..!

[-sulan-]

Thx for the tip on the buttons!! :) Found a dealer here, still gets pretty expesive though... But I think I'll get them anyway.

 

Nice pictures!! Have you planned to have any sort of "friction lock" or balancing weights or anything on the collective arm?

 

I found a Vesa screen mount with a very good friction lock, it also provides a good base on which to build the collective mechanics :) And it was rediculously cheap...

 

 

here are two pictures of the rudderpedals (please excuse the awful quality). I think I'll be lazy and slaughter an old pair of CH-pedals and use their footrests. :P

Otherwise I just have to put a box on them and connect the pot-meter.. I'm planning to try some hall-effect sensors later...

[Triggerhappy69]

Thx for the tip on the buttons!! :) Found a dealer here, still gets pretty expesive though... But I think I'll get them anyway.

 

I know, but they seem worth the extra money.. I have used some MEC tactile switches before, and they just "feel right"

 

Nice pictures!! Have you planned to have any sort of "friction lock" or balancing weights or anything on the collective arm?

 

Well to be honest I have to work out how exactly I'll make the brakes first. And then see how the whole Collective arm balances. But i'll definately put some kind of friction brake there if needed

 

I found a Vesa screen mount with a very good friction lock, it also provides a good base on which to build the collective mechanics :) And it was rediculously cheap...

 

Pics. Pics.or link..:(

 

here are two pictures of the rudderpedals (please excuse the awful quality). I think I'll be lazy and slaughter an old pair of CH-pedals and use their footrests. :P

Otherwise I just have to put a box on them and connect the pot-meter.. I'm planning to try some hall-effect sensors later...

 

 

Go for Hall effect from the beginning.. It's so much more precise, and not as hard as you think to set it up.. I have converted all my joysticks to Hall Effect Sencors, and I can't say i regret it for a moment..! Honeywells SS495A1 sencor is really easy to set up using just a rod magnet or two small disc magnets for the pedals. And you don't ever have to worry about spiking or the pedals not being precise..! :thumbup:

[-sulan-]

Thx alot for the tip on the hall effect sensors!!! I'll definetly go for them from the beginning!!! :thumbup:

Pictures shall come!! I've nothing to show yet though :p

[Triggerhappy69]

R-800 Panel PCB and Panel.

 

I have Just about finished the R-800 panel today..

 

And since it's one of the simplest and smalles panels (alt least layout and backlight wice). I took the oppurtunity to try out some different methods of panelbuilding.. Needless to say, I found myself failing misserably in finding a decent way of making the panels both look good, and be simple to make with just basic tools and time...

 

I have tried the method I used on the APU Panel, and it came out ok. But I wanted more than just Ok. So I started experimenting with two more methods. (Pics are on the way. I just have to download from camera..)

 

 

his is what the panel originaly was drawn like.! Using the same method of Bacplate-Backlight screen-Textplate from paper print with plasticsheet-1mm Plexi as the APU Panel.

 

The PCB had the layout transferred onto it.

 

And managed to produce what will go down in history will go down as "the worst, most amateurlooking PCB ever".. I can't even muster up courage enough to post pics of it. But I did eveything wrong! Stupid things like using so much heat on the solderiron that the solderpads came off the PCB plate. And manging to cut tracks so I had to make a "bridge" form what looked like solder-turd.. Brrrr.. I dread he memories..!

 

Also after soldering EVERYTHING on. I found myself puzzeled by the fact that the PCB was stickin' 3cm out from the Lower Left Panel module sidewall.. Another sobering moment for my overgrown self-confidence there...:huh:

 

 

 

Then I tried using a 4mm Plexi with the backlight LED's just protruding into it in 3mm holes. The holes were drilled only 3mm into the plate.

This making the backlight LED's shine inside the plexi plate. By doing this plexiglass takes on simular proterties as fibreoptics. So if I sanded it so it got a dull surface the light would be reflected back into the plate..

And by painting it shiny white on top of that will prevent light form being absorbed by the dull black paint on the outer surface.

 

And he adding the black on top:

 

And then sanding away the paint from the insides of the holes where the switches and green LED would protrude. I would force the light bouncing between the inner walls of the 4mm panel only shine out arround the switches!

 

The new PCB was made from a scrap blank board, and turned 90 degrees counter clockwise, so it would be nicely tucked INSIDE the module.

 

A new backplate was made for the new 4mm backlighing plate.

 

And they were test fitted.

 

Made sure I stuck precisely to the dimesions in the drawings this time. Since I am preparing to send out drawings of the final versions, I want to make sure the drawings actually just work. So you don't have to reinvent the wheel..

 

The working PCB's:

Both layers.

 

Top Layer.

 

And Bottom Layer.

 

The text was hand milled into the face of the 4mm plexi. After both layers of paint had dryed..

 

How that went you'll have to wait for till tomorrow.....

[Triggerhappy69]

I have sendt out some drawings today.. But you guys might have to download e-drawings from the Solidworks website and install it.. It's free for anyone to use.

 

If you preferre DXF or PDF files (PDF files will have dimensions on them) just PM me.. However this might take a "little longer".. LoL

 

The PCB's are made with Eagle PCB maker. Whitch also is freeware ( actually I use the PRO version since the freeware only can make PCB that are quite small. But I think you'll be able to open the .BRD files and export to BMP files in the freeware version to).. Anyway.. again just let me know..

 

Later dudes.. I'll post the second half of the update later tonight..! c",)

[Triggerhappy69]

KA-50 Trigger Mechanism

 

Just a quick update on the finished drawings for the trigger mech.

 

I'll be making it out of 4mm aluminium that I'll cut out with a hacksaw, and just bang into submission and shape...

 

The holes that the triggers rotate around are 8mm in diameter, so I'll just glue two 4mm plates together and spend some quality time with my trusted Dremel to grind it into shape.

 

I'll get back to you on how it works. But I can say as much as my best guess is to have both triggers springloaded so that you can only use on at the time. And when the payload trigger is in the upper position it activates a switch.

 

The payload trigger actually press the same switch as the cannon trigger.. BRILLIANT..!

 

At least that's how other Kamov helicotpers work..?

[CAT_101st]

So triger you think you will be dun befor DCS/bs is released? I think we shuld start taking bets on who will finish first :D

[Triggerhappy69]

So triger you think you will be dun befor DCS/bs is released? I think we shuld start taking bets on who will finish first :D

 

 

:music_whistling:... Honestly..? Some time ago I had to sit down and decide weather to get a working cockpit by the time BS is released, or accept the fact that this will be a project that will take me another couple of years before it's done..

 

I will not by a long shot have the whole pit done by the time BS is released.. At least not the way things are now.. But It's actually not a big deal for me. I have a sh..t load of learning to do to before i am able to build it the way I want it. And I kinda enjoy the process as much as the result.. (I know.. I should seek professional help:cry:)

 

I have come to the conclusion that I'll have the controls done and operating, with funtioning force trim on both cyclic and pedals, by the time BS is released. And probably the left lower pedestal with the three panels and levers...

 

The Collective is done now and all the switches have been connected. The rotorbrake mechanism has been simplified substansionally into only three moving parts and a spring. So as soon as I find time to assemble it and make sure it works perfect I'll post a final update.

 

 

Right lower panel is next in line. (NAV keyboard and so on) And then the left wall with the switches (building this has to be done after the left lower side and backwall is done, because only then I can see how it doesn't interfere with my line of sight out the left window..) Also I can fly the BS Sim, and get used to it's use, while I build it.

 

So we can make a bet right here and now mate.. My bet is on you..! LoL.. :doh:

 

I'm just having such a blast learning all this stuff about electronics and mechanics and how to build "stuff".. Remember, I had no clue when I started this.. And if it takes me 5 years to make it PERFECT.. well then I'll just enjoy every day of it.. And as soon as the KA-50 Pit is done (knowing me) I'll probably give it to someone and start another one..

[Alex_rcpilot]

Tiger it's been a while since we talked. I've been busy with my sensorless & brushless DC motor project, for my company actually. However, I'll drop in from time to time. Good luck!

[Triggerhappy69]

Tiger it's been a while since we talked. I've been busy with my sensorless & brushless DC motor project, for my company actually. However, I'll drop in from time to time. Good luck!

 

 

That is so cool..! I've been experimenting with re winding the anchors of some old 52x CD-ROM's for a micro RC Hovercraft project myself...

 

Not nearly as complex as your project, but maybe you could help me with a little dilemma?

 

I'll be using two quite strong brushless motors in the hovercraft. One for propulsion amd one to inflate the segmented skirt. But my initioal plan was to hack the electronics from an old Mini-Z car and use to control it.

 

The converter from the throttle output to a brushless controller I'll just buy (I just can't be bothered firling with it since someone already have made one and sell on the net). But the lift motor will be running at constant speed all the time and will be triggered by the current coming out of the mini-Z electronics.

 

My question to you is: Is it possible to just remove the small motor-controller card from a CD-ROM and use that to run the brushless motor? It has three hall sencors, so I guess it's some kind of constant speed controller? And can I still rewire the anchors with thicker copperwire to get some more torque out of it. Naturally I'll replace the gliding bearings with some ball bearings as well.?

 

Ps, Got your PM.. I'll add you ASAP to my MSN

[Alex_rcpilot]

Well I guess this is getting carried away a little bit. But I'll answer your questions, further discussions may be done with instant messengers.

 

You can yield more torque with thicker wire winding. Output torque is in proportion with current, so I doubt the original driver for the motor can stand that much current after you rewind that stuff.

 

The hall sensors tell the driver circuit about the rotor's angular position. Such information will be used to generate correct commutation. While the speed is determined by the voltage of the DC power supply, and it has nothing to do with the hall sensors. You might wanna get a BLDC driver for the lift motor too.

 

You may email me as well. I check my yahoo mails everyday. Good luck.

[Triggerhappy69]

Update 16.june 2008

 

To AlexRC: Your right.. Got a bit carried away there..!

 

This has been an intense weekend. I've been of playing football with my co-workers. And ended up being rushed to hospital in an ambulance with full sirens and flashing lights.. Got sprayed in my face (by mistake) with one of those cooling spray-cans. Just as I was inhaling.. Not a good idea..! But after some time on oxygen and a good long talk with the worlds most perfect woman ( Yup Ingvild.. That one is for you) I am now feeling well again..

 

But back to the pitbuilding update..!

 

I finally capitulated and got me a coordinate table for my benchtop Dremel..

 

 

I found that it would help me in both making the more complex panels, and the Trigger mechanism. It has a work area of 150mmX150mm witch will be adequate for most of my panels, and really isn't that expensive.

 

(I will be attaching some small stepper motors to it, so I can run it as a simple benchtop CnC mill. But that's not the main reason. More of a "because I can" thing I guess..! And if it works fine I'll be using it for engraving the text into the bezels for backlighting)

 

Trigger Mechanism has it's main parts designes now.

 

And as you can see it will be made completely ut of 4mm aluminum sheets:

 

It will be cut out with a hacksaw and hand shaped to get that "sand -casting" look that the real thing has..

 

That's all for now guys.. Cya!

[Triggerhappy69]

Update Building the Ka-50 Trigger Mechanism 19, June 2008

 

Got the parts cut out from 4mm Aluminium the other day.

 

Here's the backplate that will be fixed to the Cyclic stick front, and hold the switches and magnets. (more on the magnets later)

And the drawing of the part.. I just LOVE Solidworks..! It makes constructing something from the ground up so much easier..!

 

The Launch Trigger:

 

And the How it will look after some "work" done on it!

 

And Naturally the Cannon Triggers upper and Lower Parts:

Lower Part:

 

So Now I am going to install my brand spanking nes XY table to my DREM Stand and mill out the grroves and make sure the corners fit.. I'll post more on that later..!

 

Cya..!:D

[Renato71]

Great work Triggerhappy! :thumbup:

Panel look very realistic and other thingies are progressing quite well!

[Triggerhappy69]

Just a quick update on the trigger mechanism building:

 

 

Got the rough shape of the trigger mechanism doe now! A bit of fine adjusting, and some springs and switches, and it will be fine (I hope)

 

I got me one of these to help.

 

Cannon trigger

Lower Cannon trigger

Launch Trigger

 

And I also finished the slider switch for the collective box:

 

I've got lost more , but my space here is full, and being a MORON I uploaded a bunch of files (approx 100 of them) to my MySpace (aaaargh! I still hate saying that!). And now I have to wait for a MONTH or find another place to upload pics..

 

I'll look inti it later. Now It's bedtime.. Up early to KiteSurf tomorrow.! YAHOO.!:pilotfly:

[Triggerhappy69]

Great work Triggerhappy! :thumbup:

Panel look very realistic and other thingies are progressing quite well!

 

 

I have found a place here in town where they will LaserCut all my panels from now..!

 

I'll get the first two tomorrow with backlit lettering and all..! Can't wayt..!

[Renato71]

Wow, triggers are shaping up realy nicely.

 

I have found a place here in town where they will LaserCut all my panels from now..!

I'll get the first two tomorrow with backlit lettering and all..! Can't wayt..!

 

Now that is a good news! A buddy of mine is contacting some people in my hometown about the smae thing, and he already knows some people that can produce PCB cheaply.

 

PS - Just can't resist not to mention that I put together my Mastercard and it is working fine. I'm gonna test it over weekend. Thanks again for all tips!

[-sulan-]

Beautiful work on the trigger there!!!

A coordinate table is great to have! :thumbup:

[Triggerhappy69]

Wow, triggers are shaping up realy nicely.

 

 

 

Now that is a good news! A buddy of mine is contacting some people in my hometown about the smae thing, and he already knows some people that can produce PCB cheaply.

 

PS - Just can't resist not to mention that I put together my Mastercard and it is working fine. I'm gonna test it over weekend. Thanks again for all tips!

 

 

Just got mine back today

 

 

 

And the wires for the R-800 panel is soldered on

[Triggerhappy69]

Update: Finished building Collective Brake and Panel update

 

Got the machanics for the Collective Brake done today!

 

Basicly it works by a metal pushrod attached o the brakehandle pushing two springloaded aluminum squarebars apart!

Between them there's a alu strip that's connetcted via a slider to the floor (slider is not made yet though).

 

This should give a collective brake system that feels real (and not so "plastic"), and is virtually slop free... i hope!

 

The pushrod has not beenfittet in this image.

 

Here you see the pushrod is routed through a hole in the front fixing for the spring. It just bypass the stopping-block, and just push the springloaded pivot-bar open. Simple,and it really make the collective lock into position without any chanse of it moving by accident wilte oushing buttons or coolie hat..!:thumbup:

 

 

As you see I did a test to see how it lock the collective stick. And BOY did it lock it!

Also this show the general idea of how it will work,,

 

PANEL FINISHING FOR LEFT LOWER PANEL

Since the panels were cut out from one bug acryllic sheet, I had to repaint the sides and holes with another coat of white, and then black.. And being of the not so bright I spent hours self-debating how to do it..

 

I know...! It should have been obvious to me, but it's not nice to bully the rederded.. So just leave the subject alone.. It happened! It was a sobering momrnt for me! And I hope I never have to feel that stupid again:cry:

 

After just masking of the front with .... eeeeehhh.... masking tape? (I can't belive that it took me hours to come to that pretty obvious sollution? I mean..? It even called MASKING TAPE..!?)

 

 

These beauties were what I was left with:

 

And the R-800 Panel to:

 

I can hardly wayt to see what they look like with internal backlight..