Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!

[Triggerhappy69]

I can not rep You more Trigger so I write. I love this collective already even if it's not finished yet! :D. You've gone so far that You can not stop now. Keep it coming!

 

Amazing I wish I had some space and the knowledge to do something incredible like it, Keep up the beautiful work Trigger And maby one day U want to sell one of Ur creations.

When the price goes down on the ka-50 :)

 

:thumbup:

 

 

Thank You guys..! I am making a short How-To make easy PCB and breakout boards for the DIY guy..! More pics and an updtae on the Cyclic Stick trigger mechanism by Tuesday and Wednesday next week..!

[Triggerhappy69]

Picture update PCB making for the APU Panel

 

... Bummer..! No more space for pics..!

 

 

Is it possible to increase the space I have for pictures?

 

Teaser:

[HPO]

Great :),....don't you have a website where you can put your photo's,.. and then link to them ?

 

Or a commercial dedicated website where you can put your photo's?

[Triggerhappy69]

Great :),....don't you have a website where you can put your photo's,.. and then link to them ?

 

Or a commercial dedicated website where you can put your photo's?

 

 

I have no idea why I haven't thought of that yet..? Sigh.. Simple sollutions.. gotta love'em..! Thanx mate.:thumbup:

[Triggerhappy69]

APU Panel update and pcb making

 

Damn I am getting tired of working on this ONE panel.!

 

But it's kinda crutial because it will set the standard of how all the other panles are made, and it holds a 4-way switch (Aaaaaargh.. I hate that thing)

 

I started of by printing the PCB layout so all the backlight led's were connected. This PCB will also hold the slider plate for the 4-Way switch.

 

These will be transfered to the blank copper PCB boards

 

 

 

ing a hot iron you can transferre the laserprint on to the copper boards (Remember to print on InkJet Photo paper, and not Laser Photo paper)

 

 

Soak the whole thing in HOT water, and carefully remove the paper that turnes into "goo". Be carefull to not remove the Laser print transfer though. It should stick well to the copper proven that you have cleaned and scrubbed the PCB before ironing the print onto it. Also remove ALL greasy fingermarks, as this will ruin the transfer.! (Took me a while to read that part.. Stupid me.)

 

 

You should be left with something resembling this.

... But I wasn't..! So I had to do some touch up work with a eching pen..!

 

My final result came out quite good in the end if you ask me.

 

And now the parts are just waiting for me to sand the Backlight LED's matte (to better dispurse the light.. This makes a HUGE difference.!). And re assembly..!

 

 

More on that later..!

 

Last night I painted the major cockpit modules..! It's starting to come together now..! Damn this is getting fun..!

[HPO]

Nice!!....:thumbup:, are you watching Joe Kurr :P

[Triggerhappy69]

Power supply for pit builders

 

After some snooping around the internet I came over this DIY Powersupply How-To..

 

It follow the same line as the one I am using, but it also covers a more "safe" and in-depth way to make a stable powersupply from any cheap/free ATX power supply..

 

 

Check it out on :

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM#POWER_OK

[Triggerhappy69]

Building the Rotor Governor Handles (Collective Update)

 

Having some time on my hands I got around to building the two handles that control the Rotor speed governor next to the Collective Stick.

 

 

 

The first thing I had to make was the alu plate that the handles would stick out from. Here seen as the plate to the right of the collective stick. Also I took the time to shape the holder for the rotorbrake handle..

This was my idea.. To have a 20mm plate inside the rotor governor box, holding a handle on each side that triggers microswitches. The end/center positions will be determened by the cut-out grooves in the alu front (first picture. Not drawn in yet on the plate)

 

Here you see the end and center points drawn on the alu plate.

 

And the Alu plate in it's place on the rotor governor box.

 

The governor handle cut-out placed on the side ov the governor box for test fit. And how I found the end/center points for the handles.

 

Using a hack saw I cut out the handle attaching plate (took some sanding and fine adjusting after, but it came out ok)

 

As you can see one side has a groove sanded into it, while the other side has a alu plate attached to it. This is because the handles are spring loaded as they move from one position to the next. And to make the pivot point for the handles the same I had to sand out a groove on one side. The alu plate on the other side is just to prevent the handles edge digging into the soft wood. And make the whole thing feel more "rigid"..!

 

Here you see how I springloaded the Governor handles. Just some springs I found and a wood screw to hold it. I will have to sand down the threads on the screws where the handle moves up and down, but that's a 5 minute job with a Dremel..

 

Also you might notice that I had to raise the microswitches about 3mm and add a plate at the end of one of the handles. This is because this handle is lifted up when I move it to it's next position.

The Rotor Governor Handle Mechanics assembled and just waiting for me to attach it into the Collective's Governor Box.!

 

The two handles were made from 10X4mm alu rods that I bendt into shape and rounded one end of. The knobs are actually just cut-outs from the front instrument panel that i made a 10X4mm groove into using a Stanley knife. And drilled holes and screwed it all together. At a later point I'll fill the holes in the knobs with expoy, and "paint" the knobs with a thinned out solution of expoy glue (just 5 minutes epoxy glue with a bit of white spirit in it). This should give the knobs a plastic finish and make them more durable for wear and tear. AND give me a good base for painting as well..

 

And the end result:

 

Well that's all for today guys.. Next is cutting out the plate that the handles move in, and the some epoxy, paint and A LOT of standing back and being proud of myself..:music_whistling:

 

Sunday 30/3-08 Update:

 

I just scrapped the first front for the Rotor Governor Box. And started the looong and boooring way towards making a new one.

 

The old AND the new:

 

I'll try and hurry finishing this now. Everything is just waiting for me to be able to assemble the Collective Mech.

New Update here as soon as I have time to finish it.!

[TorwaK]

Looking very nice Triggerhappy. I'm looking forward to see your completed home cockipt.

[wasserfall]

 

Proud of your self?

 

WE ARE PROUD OF YOU!!!!

 

Amazing what you can do!!

[Triggerhappy69]

Update: APU Panels 4-way Rocker switch WORKS..!

 

I decided to go "russian" in my apprach to this switch, and build prototypes untill I finally got one working. And it turns out this was the right approach after all...

 

 

The switch is springloaded with a "fueltank klunk" from a model helicopter at the end of it (it has the right round shape, and was predrilled to 3,2mm)

 

At the inside of each of the grooves that the "stick" runs in. I have cut out some pieces of a 0,5mm copper sheet to use as contactpoints for the electric current. And I bent them so they will make contact even after some serious abuse from my part.! Seems to work good so far.

 

Here you see the copper sheet pieces and how I bent them. (sorry for the poor quality pics. I just can't bring myself to fixing my digital camera..)

 

More details..

 

I'll make drawings of the parts as soon as I have a spare moment.! The only thing missing on the APU Panel now is for me to etch out the new PCB, and solder all the connections to it.

 

I have thrown away the idea about having all the panels come together in a breakout panel for each module. It would be more of work if I nedd to do repairs on one panel while I wanted the rest to work.. It's a learning prosess.. :smartass:

[Triggerhappy69]

Update: APU Panel PCB layout.

 

I needed to design a new one where all the resistors, relay and stuff was on the PCB. And also I wanted to have the connections running on the PCB itself from each switch to the main cable.

 

Top layout.!

 

And the transferred Layout:

For this one I'll use both sides of the blank PCB board. Since I needed to bridge the connections at four points.

 

 

And the finished Layout transferred to the PCB Board:

I'll let you know how it goes..

 

All the stuff needed for etching is waiting. I just have to get some Cinese first.!

 

The powder is mixed in a 1/5 solution. And is Natriumperoxidsulfate..! No go practice saying that fast 10 ten times..! LMAO..!

 

I'll be back with an update on the etching and putting everything together ASAP.!

 

BTW.. Big discovery on PCB layout transferring..! Print with a Laser Printer on Ink-Jet Photo paper..! Laser Photo paper has a plastic layer that water can't dissolve. And that makes transferring the layout just about inpossible..! :huh:

 

Here the PCB has just been dumped into the Ferro-something-something-something bath.

 

 

You can see small bubbles of gas forming on the surface at once.. It's actually facinating to see..

 

 

5 minutes into the prosess.. And most of the copper has dissapeared. The teesponn is there to make sure the bottom of the PCB is etched to. And I flipped it over every now and then, and made sure to move the eching liquide arround to speed up the reaction.

 

 

Not to bad result if you ask me.. Now tomorrow I need to buy a ned Carbide drill that's 0,8mm.. I had four of them, and now I have none.. Hmmmm..? Must be something wrong with my Dremel.. LoL

[Joe Kurr]

Nice!!....:thumbup:, are you watching Joe Kurr :P

 

Uh, nope, I haven't been watching here lately, and it seems I've been missing some very interesting updates!

 

@ TriggerHappy:

 

Very clever technique you got there for developing your PCB.

Is there another step you take after you get it out of the hot water, or is the water enough to erode away the excess copper?

[Triggerhappy69]

PCB Etching

 

Very clever technique you got there for developing your PCB.

Is there another step you take after you get it out of the hot water, or is the water enough to erode away the excess copper?

 

 

Nope.. Water will not etch away the copper layer..

 

There are many different approaches to finding the eching solvent that suits you best. The most easy available is probably Ferric Chloride (I think that's the correct name, but please google it before you take my word for it). This is available for "over the counter" purchase at most Pharmcy's.. HOWEVER..! Be advised that Ferric Chloride stains evertyhing it isspilled on, and is a real mess to work with in general.:cry:

 

Also you should be prepared that the chicks working at the pharmacy WILL look at you as if your some kind of freak when you ask for Ferric Chloride.. LMAO..! It least that's what happened to me when I asked for it..?

 

Some swear to Some kind of hydrogen pherokside mix. Also easy to get hold of, but a more unstable fluide when it comes to getting the right strenght.:book:

 

 

Found on internet about PCB echants:'

"I've found a new home-made etchant that I really, really like. And it's very cheap, and widely available. It's made by adding 1 part Muriatic Acid (the common kind that's sold in hardware stores, which is actually 28% Hydrochloric Acid) to 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide (the common 3% kind that's sold in drugstores and pharmacies). This etchant can etch a 1-oz board in about five minutes, at room temperature, with gentle mechanical agitation. And it's almost transparent. I mix it in a small plastic food-storage container and wear rubber gloves so I can use a balled-up paper towel to gently wipe the surfaces of the board, as it etches, which seems to speed up the etching time, considerably. (Caution: The concentrated acid's fumes would be very bad to breathe, or to have around metallic items. And the acid would be very bad to get onto anything that's not plastic.)"

 

I use powder based eching solution that I bought at my electronics supplier locally.. It works fine, but is kinda pricy in the long run.So I think I'll go for the Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide solution as soon as I run out..

 

copied from:

http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm

(LOT's of info on this site.. Scroll down and read..!)

 

For a list of the most used PCB etching solvents and how they work (always nice to know WHY things go wrong..LoL) check out:

http://www.p-m-services.co.uk/etching.htm

 

Note: Notice what this guy say about the right paper for Laser Transfer of the layout.. I wish I had read that a couple of weeks ago..!:doh:

[rocketeer]

Trigger, YOU'RE DA MAN!!!

[Triggerhappy69]

Thanx guys..! (Blushing)..

 

Tonight I hope to assemble the APU Panel with backlights and all..!

 

If you don't hear anything by sunday, it's all gone to shite..! LoL

[CAT_101st]

Wow very nice. I am starting a new job monday, So in a weak or two I can start working on my pit agin.

[Triggerhappy69]

Wow very nice. I am starting a new job monday, So in a weak or two I can start working on my pit agin.

 

 

Cool..! I need someone to bounce ideas of..! Mine have gone worse and worse lately..! :helpsmilie:

[Triggerhappy69]

Update Building KA-50 Cockpit 30/3-08

 

I have been thinking..! (yeah yeah.. I know what you all mumble to yourself now.. ):megalol:

 

Since I have at least three different parts of the Pit I am building at once. And I keep updating the thread sporadicly and with no plan whatsoever. I have decided to add the updates to the already started post on the subject in my thread. Now wasn't that just friggin SMART..?

 

 

However. It will require whoever bothers to read to do a little flipping between pages to find for instance the "Collective" post...? Any coments on this?

 

I'll always add a post letting you know the thread has been updated, and what post it conserns..

 

 

 

(Damn I am just sooo proud of myself now.. But I am a sucker for a strong argument, so give me feedback:music_whistling:)

 

 

And naturally I forgot to mention that todays update is in the PCB making and Collective building posts... Well at least that makes the whole argument on my intelligence final.. And all you who voted "noipe, the dude is not the sharpest knife in the drawer". CONGRATULATIONS..! It feels good to right... LMAO

[urze]

Hey - What I have seen up to now is awesome - and awesome is also your speed on this.

About the 'little flipping between pages' :

Would be a good idea to do something like this:

http://www.su27.de/

:thumbup:

[Triggerhappy69]

Hey - What I have seen up to now is awesome - and awesome is also your speed on this.

About the 'little flipping between pages' :

Would be a good idea to do something like this:

http://www.su27.de/

:thumbup:

 

 

I can only DREAM of reaching the level of building this guy is on.! I've followed this model for a while now. DAMN it is soooo incredible sweeet..!

 

(.. thinking ..) But of course you were talking about the WEB Page..? I have absolutely no idea whatsoever of how to make a web page..?

 

(Added later... oh say about 4 minutes later..): URZE..? I keep getting a notice that some Explorer Add-On has been deactivated, and that I must avtivate it before using any of the buttons on he's page..?

 

Now that's not a problem in itself, but then the bloddy thing serves me a list of ... say maybe a gazillon add-ons that are de-activated..? And I have no idea witch one to re-activate..? Is it just me..? "Should I know this" I ask Mr. Microsoft..?

 

Do you get the same on your Pc?

 

 

Do you now this guy? If you do. Tell him from me that he rocks..!

[Triggerhappy69]

New Update PCB making for DIY'er..

 

Just added a few pics from tonight..

[Joe Kurr]

I can only DREAM of reaching the level of building this guy is on.! I've followed this model for a while now. DAMN it is soooo incredible sweeet..!

 

(.. thinking ..) But of course you were talking about the WEB Page..? I have absolutely no idea whatsoever of how to make a web page..?

 

(Added later... oh say about 4 minutes later..): URZE..? I keep getting a notice that some Explorer Add-On has been deactivated, and that I must avtivate it before using any of the buttons on he's page..?

 

Now that's not a problem in itself, but then the bloddy thing serves me a list of ... say maybe a gazillon add-ons that are de-activated..? And I have no idea witch one to re-activate..? Is it just me..? "Should I know this" I ask Mr. Microsoft..?

 

Do you get the same on your Pc?

 

 

Do you now this guy? If you do. Tell him from me that he rocks..!

 

The buttons on that web site are small Java applets.

So you might need to install Sun Java, or tell Internet Explorer how to work with it...

[CAT_101st]

it all works perfict for me.

 

Just send me a PM so I can get to any ideas that you need opion on. I only have like 3 hours a weak now to get online. :cry:

[Triggerhappy69]

APU Panel done..

 

Just a bit of paint, and some soldering of wires now.

 

The 4-Way switch works like a charm..