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Posted

So you think you will be dun by the time the A10 is released?

 

It looks good keep working on it. when it is dun it will all be worth it. Then you will have to start a new project because you wont know what to do with all your free time :D

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/

Posted
So you think you will be dun by the time the A10 is released?

 

It looks good keep working on it. when it is dun it will all be worth it. Then you will have to start a new project because you wont know what to do with all your free time :D

 

 

Well I've got a little side project going for a desktop type mini-pit with sidepanels going back as far as the throttle sticks. With the old SunCom HOTAS (modelled after the F-15 setup I think?) and naturally the gauges on the front Panel.

 

Being an old SU25T lover I just cuodn't see myself NOT falling in love with the DCS GroundPounder.. And I just love the A-10 Frontpanel and its stunning amount of needles whirling arround at startup..! He He:music_whistling:

 

And it's a US cockpit. so everything can most likely be bought from somewhere as far as panels and switches go..

Not that easy to find RU Cockpit parts on e-bay...

At least I can't find anything ..?

 

 

... Actually, or should I say unfortunately, you do have a good point there mate..:smilewink:

 

'Cause the thing I like the most in this prosess is all the cool stuff you have to learn and/or figure out sollutions for.. By the time I've got this Ka-50 Pit up and running I'll probably be so bored with the thing I'll either give it to someone or start rebuilding it... or try to make it more perfect I hope..

 

But hey..! At least I'll know why that one LED always flashes before lighting up with the others.. It's because I solder like solder like a moron..:megalol:

 

I don't think I can come up with one thing in the little I have "finished" at this point, that I don't have at least FOUR discarded versions of..

Hmmm that makes you want to think.. right..?

 

.... actually Let's not.. 'cause now I just lost all hope and see no real reward for all my time invested in this.. AND to add insult to injury, the only thing I'll have is a future of more time invested in more unsatifying projects.. makes you wanna cry right.. hehe NOT!.. I'm just kidding:smilewink:

 

This is the coolest hobby I've ever had.. It's kind of like golf.. without the awfull clothes and funky shoes..

It doesn't matter how good you are at it. You will always know you suck.. and every time you're going to make something, you need to learn how to first.

And when you've made the thing (.. from previous remember.. thwo lines up..), you have gotten betterat it...

...and then you just have to make another one..?

 

.. and all of a sudden they release the simulator...? and your waaayyy behind schedule..... LMAO

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Well I am just glad I read the interview with Matt. He says the the AH64a is not a 100% go for the 3rd releas. :huh: :cry: :doh: Thank goodnes I havest started the next pit as it may never come or I may finish 2 years before its releas. But the A 10 is a 100% so I may just do a front pannel and a few on a side pannel. Just so I can fly the thing for fun.

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hej Trigger!

got your package, tnx mate I will get cracking on it as soon as i get a break from the renovations we got gooing since we moved to the new house.

 

NO, the house WILL NOT steal every single waken hour, i have made myself that promice and i intend to stick to it ;)

 

// Trekki

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Finished some of the panels drawings..

 

Finally I have had some free time on my hands again..

 

I've finished up some of the new Panels drawings pending the CNC Mill getting done..

 

I am using a toroidial transformator that should give me an output of 37V and 3,6 Amp.

And it does exactly that when I measure the voltage out from the transformator. And the same when I measure the voltage after the Bridge rectifier.!

 

BUT when I measure the voltage after it has passed two 10.000 Micro Fahrad Capasitators (63V) I get 53 Volts???? Anyone have a clue why?

 

There panels are done and SimPit will get them tomorrow. I have also added the DXF file for those who want to run it through a CAM software and CNC them out..!

 

weaponscontrolpanel5443.jpg

 

 

 

 

weaponsdesignatorpanelv.jpg

 

weaponsdesignatorpanelv.jpg

 

18x18mmpushbuttonassemb.jpg

 

18x18mmpushbuttonassemb.jpg

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

I am using a toroidial transformator that should give me an output of 37V and 3,6 Amp.

And it does exactly that when I measure the voltage out from the transformator. And the same when I measure the voltage after the Bridge rectifier.!

 

BUT when I measure the voltage after it has passed two 10.000 Micro Fahrad Capasitators (63V) I get 53 Volts???? Anyone have a clue why?

 

Trigger, can you post a schematic of the circuit and indicate what measurements you are getting at various points (VAC, VDC, etc.)?

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

There's no place like 127.0.0.1

Posted
Trigger, can you post a schematic of the circuit and indicate what measurements you are getting at various points (VAC, VDC, etc.)?

 

 

I'll do that as soon as I get home mate.. Thanx for helping..:thumbup:

 

It just dawned on me that capasitators let AC current through right? So if the Bridge rectifier is busted, could that be the source of the increased current?

 

Anyway it looks like this:

mybowpowersupply2128814.jpg

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted (edited)

Been a while since I did this but if I remember correctly you don't have a DC signal after the rectifier, instead you have a signal like the one to the right in the picture below => a DC meter wont give you the correct voltage value (men jag kan ha fel).Gratz.rectifier.en.png

 

/Oakes

Edited by Oakes
Posted

It has been quite a while for me too. Trigger, at each of those measurement points I see two ways to interpret how you are measuring... from one leg to the other (ie. across the transformer secondary coil, across the bridge rectifier, and the tb7 + to -), or from one leg to ground. Assuming you are doing the first (one leg to the other), then the two right-most measurements on your drawing should be the same if the fuse is intact. They are electrically the same point if you have continuity through the fuse.

 

IIRC, what Oakes is showing about the output waveform is true for his drawing, since there are no capacitors on his circuit's output side. I believe the capacitors in Trigger's circuit would cause the output to level out.

 

I'll ponder on this more. In the meantime, someone who stays (pardon the pun) current on electronics may chime in with a more authoritative answer.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

There's no place like 127.0.0.1

Posted
It has been quite a while for me too. Trigger, at each of those measurement points I see two ways to interpret how you are measuring... from one leg to the other (ie. across the transformer secondary coil, across the bridge rectifier, and the tb7 + to -), or from one leg to ground. Assuming you are doing the first (one leg to the other), then the two right-most measurements on your drawing should be the same if the fuse is intact. They are electrically the same point if you have continuity through the fuse.

 

IIRC, what Oakes is showing about the output waveform is true for his drawing, since there are no capacitors on his circuit's output side. I believe the capacitors in Trigger's circuit would cause the output to level out.

 

I'll ponder on this more. In the meantime, someone who stays (pardon the pun) current on electronics may chime in with a more authoritative answer.

 

Yes, looking at the schematics again after a good nights sleep, you are correct, the voltage should be the same at both places since the voltage is measured over the same resistor. Doesn't solve the mystery of the extra 20 volts though........:helpsmilie:

 

/Oakes

Posted

No, it doesn't solve that mystery, to be sure. It is cause to re-perform the measurements though (which is what I think Trigger indicated he was going to do).

 

Trigger, is anything else hooked up on to those terminals of TB7? If so does that component have any other power sources that could be putting voltage on to the TB7 terminals (either by design, or by some unexpected component failure)?

 

Also, can you confirm that you took the measurements leg to leg (as described earlier)?

 

And just because it is easy to do, have you checked the fuse?

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

There's no place like 127.0.0.1

Posted

Power Supply problems

 

Here's the deal..:

 

lars0276273144.jpg

As shown I measure the current after the Capasitator and with the Resistors connected. And it shows 50,3 Volts

 

lars0286277661.jpg

 

Here I still have the Capasitator and bleed resistor connected. And I'm measuring the current right after the Rectifier.. Now showing 50,1 Volts.

 

lars0296281950.jpg

 

Then I disconnected the Capasitator and Bleed resistor. And all of a sudden the voltage drops to 33,6 Volts.? Go Figure that one out!:cry:

 

The Power Supply Setup

lars0306285831.jpg

 

lars0316291087.jpg

 

As seen I am running the AC through the Toroidial Transformator and into the Rectifier. Then through a Fuse and out to the Capasitators..

 

lars0276519279.jpg

The Capasitator. Type Nippon Chemi-Con, 63Volt, 10.000 Micro Fharad, And I have also tested with a smaller Capasitator. Same result..!

 

rectifier6380690.jpg

The Rectifier product sheet.

 

Could it be as simple as my Voltmeter setting, or something like that guys? I am grasping at straws here now.. Desperate to connect the damn thing and start produsing Instrument panels with english text..

 

Thank you all for all your help btw.. I really appreciate it..:thumbup:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Right now I'm at work, and some of the pictures aren't coming through as visible (happens pretty regularly). Of the ones that I can see, the voltmeter labels are a bit too blurry to read well, (so I can't tell if you have it selected to VDC or VAC, for instance).

 

Since it appears to be easy for you to try different configurations, try the following:

 

With the standard configuration, measure both Volts AC (VAC) and Volts DC (VDC).

 

With the capacitors removed, measure both VAC and VDC.

 

-----------------------------

 

With the capacitors removed, you should see a lower VDC value. When capacitors are installed across the output of a properly functioning full wave bridge rectifier, the capacitors will charge up, "clamping" the DC voltage to a higher level than you would see with the capacitors removed (See the right side of Oakes drawing in post #562). The degree to which the capacitors will be able to keep the voltage clamped higher will vary with the load placed upon the circuit. Right now, you appear to be measuring the circuit with no significant load upon it. If you measure it with a significant enough load upon it (use something unimportant to try it out) you will see a lower VDC at TB7. The reason this happens is because the significant load allows the capacitors to discharge (and the recharge, etc., etc.), so the circuit's output voltage can drop down (more "ripple" means a lower average voltage in this case).

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

There's no place like 127.0.0.1

Posted

Some finishing on the Cyclic Stick

 

I finally decided to let BlackShark rest a little while I did some work on the Cockpit.

 

Having tested the HOCAS, and made some notes on improvements needed to be done. And since I am workinbg on the CnC mill most of the time anyway. I took everything apart to do some rebuilding.

 

First on my list was finishing the Cyclic stick with triggers and Wheel Brake handle. It was mounted at an angle on the front pedestal, but I am changing that to a horisontal mounting. The force-feedback motors don't need to struggle if the stick is balanced (like URZE's FFB stick). And I wasn't happy with the way I had the PCB's for the Sidewinder FFB at harms way..

 

Another BU0836 Joystick controller Card was ordered from Leo Bodnar. This one will cort out the Cyclic triggers, buttons and POV hat.

 

 

This is more or less what I am aiming for:

airforceruka50779523048a.jpg

 

The hat for the Pipper controller needs to be made new. And there is a "ridge" protecting the furthest right button..

 

cyclic07.jpg

 

cyclic06.jpg

 

I heated a piece of plastic and shaped it with a steel tube. And then I sanded, and sanded, and sanded.. God how I HATE sanding..

 

cyclic.jpg

 

But the result wasn't to bad if you ask me.. And you have to ask me. Because the pictures were taken with my cellphone. And you have no clue if it looks like CRAP from those..? :doh:

... but trust me.. It looks good.. LMAO.!

 

cyclic04.jpg

cyclic03.jpg

 

Next soime paint and stuff..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted
nice work..

 

my new controller construction sufffered a setback...

have to re cut plexi-glass...

 

 

Aaaah..! You haven't mentioned your controller yet mate..!? Now I'm dying to se how your coming along with it.. Show me some pics.. :thumbup:

 

Never mind if the first try went to cr*p.. I still want to see it.. (most of the time my first try has gone the same way.. LoL)

 

Pics, pics pics..:smilewink:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

I have made a console with switches and push/toggle buttons for the LOMAC game for almost all the keys it has.

But i have a problem :

For instance : I take off from the airport and i pull down a (on/off) switch that it is for the Gear.

So Gear are inside the doors now.

I go to battle but.....i get killed ....sometimes.

anyway....

when i reload the game i find myself back on the tarmac of the airport and the switch for the Gear to be at the position

Gear Retracted.

I take some time to check every switch and push button to be sure that it is in the correct position BEFORE i take off.

But.........LOMAC game have about 90 keys (conditions)...

my question and my concern is.....

what about Black Shark that it has TOO many switches/buttons etc etc....

thanks in advance

stelios

Posted

Thanks Acedy, and yep i'm the one, i'll start working on checklists the minute I get BS. It's my way of mastering a new complicated sim, and from what I read, BS is really for the avionics freaks isn't it :)

Sorry for the hijack TriggerHappy, just wanted to say how much I love your work

Have a Bandit Day

Red Dog

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http://www.ravico.com/ST/perso/Sig_generale.png

[/sIGPIC]

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