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Posted

With the big afterburner/idle detent riser mounted on the throttle base, I can't get to the mounting holes to mount the throttle base on my MonsterTech throttle plate. In the assembly guide, they suggest putting M4 nuts in the slots, but I don't think this would work well, as those slots don't line up well with the mounting holes.

My first idea was to shorten the rails so they no longer block the two right mounting holes and then cut or drill out some space above the left side holes to be able to get a nut in there. Has anyone thought of a clever solution for this that doesn't involve cutting or drilling?

Thanks.

Posted

Have the same problem, throttle profile mount its just simply bad designed, too unneeded complex and blocking half of the mounting holes.

Theres no problem for the right ones, just move the mounting rails to the left if you dont want to cut it down, but for the left ones theres no solution as you said, rails don't line up, it´s a fail design.

Even without the Viper side profile you will hard a hard time mounting on the left holes due to those plastic appendix on front and back, i was thinking on designing some pieces for 3D printing to mount the side profile on those appendix (there are nuts inside) leaving the bottom area clear for use the hole, but i dont have time right now.

The only thing i hate from my Orion 2 it´s that mounting system if you use the Viper throttle...

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Posted
vor 9 Stunden schrieb 5ephir0th:

Even without the Viper side profile you will hard a hard time mounting on the left holes due to those plastic appendix on front and back, i was thinking on designing some pieces for 3D printing to mount the side profile on those appendix (there are nuts inside) leaving the bottom area clear for use the hole, but i dont have time right now.

With the F/A-18 throttle it is not so much of a problem. Yes the „appendixes“ are a bit annoying, but on the left side, I just put the nut on the top of the hole and the screw comes in from the bottom through the mounting plate.

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Posted

I put M4 nuts in the slots and they nearly line up. I opened that up by drilling it out. The annoying part though is the screws have to be within 2mm of ideal length. If they're too short, they won't catch in the nuts. If they're too long, they hit the top of the rail and can't tighten enough.

  • Like 1
Posted

I did similar to Wile E.  I drilled out the right side holes and so far it has been fine with the mount I have.  I would prefer to have all four, or at least three, screws secured, but thus far I have not had issues.

Posted
4 hours ago, Immune said:

I did similar to Wile E.  I drilled out the right side holes and so far it has been fine with the mount I have.  I would prefer to have all four, or at least three, screws secured, but thus far I have not had issues.

How stable is it with just the right two? I'm considering getting a second base for twin engine jets, since the base is only $215, and swapping complete units is less effort than swapping the handles. If I did that, I wouldn't be able to use the left side mount holes as easily.

Posted

It isn't so bad. I didn't have issues, just a slight wiggle. Then I thought to used a small vice from the old toolbox and hold them together. Now it is as stable as four bolts. Not to mention, using a vice now makes changing controllers from the mount more efficient when I want to swap to flying the F-18 with my other controller instead of having to unscrew everything, now it is like a quick release.

Posted (edited)

I have two Orion throttles - one for the F-16 and one for the F/A-18 - and an Obutto cockpit frame.

I use 3M Dual Lock fasteners to hold them on to the mounting plate and it works great! It's easy as pie to switch between the two throttle bases - it takes less than 90 seconds.

3M Dual Lock Strips

I guarantee that your base WILL NOT move once you set it in position with this! Just press down on the base until you feel the strips lock together and that's it! Just place a 1" x 1" square on each corner of the base. It will stay firmly in place.

Edited by ggerman2862
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/10/2022 at 1:03 AM, Wile E. said:

I put M4 nuts in the slots and they nearly line up. I opened that up by drilling it out. The annoying part though is the screws have to be within 2mm of ideal length. If they're too short, they won't catch in the nuts. If they're too long, they hit the top of the rail and can't tighten enough.

This is kind of what I did as well along with ordering an m4-m6 screw kit from amazon. Although depending on the mount mileage may vary. The mount kit I use is universal. Used it on my old ch stuff. Just two metal rails. So I just slid a nut into the rail on the throttle and found the proper length of screw/washer combination. 

This is the mount I'm using

https://www.amazon.com/J-PEIN-Upgraded-joystick-hand-control-game-device/dp/B07KJCC4Q7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=3UDRAU40956PJ&keywords=J+pien&qid=1658171684&sprefix=j+pien%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-1

 

 

Pacotito

 

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Posted

I'm using the MonsterTech stand, which has a flat aluminum plate with screw holes for the Warthog and Orion pattern. I placed a plastic 11"x14" cutting board between the throttle and aluminum plate to use as a mouse platform. I drilled holes in the mouse platform to line up with the throttle mounting holes. If I didn't have this plate, I could probably use the 3M dual lock (that's what I use to mount the tablets and Track IR in the picture). I decided to use a separate F-18 throttle for twin engine jets, rather than trying to switch the handles between F-16 and F-18, so I will be swapping throttles. I'll probably use dual lock or double sided tape to secure the cutting board to the aluminum plate, then just run two screws on the right side. I ordered some thumb screws and wingnuts, so it should be pretty quick and toolless.

simPit.jpeg

Posted (edited)

If you had the correct length of M4 bolts could you use those to both mount the throttle and hold the rails in place with the same 4 bolts? Or are the front back tolerances of the rail mounts and the offset of the mounting holes going to cause a problem? 

This being my first WinWing product, I'm a bit surprised they could screw this up so badly.

Edited by Morphine
Posted
9 hours ago, Morphine said:

If you had the correct length of M4 bolts could you use those to both mount the throttle and hold the rails in place with the same 4 bolts? Or are the front back tolerances of the rail mounts and the offset of the mounting holes going to cause a problem? 

This being my first WinWing product, I'm a bit surprised they could screw this up so badly.

 

That would probably work, since the mounting nuts sit in the same channel in the rail as the rail mounting nuts. I don't think it would provide any benefits though. The screws that mount the rail to the throttle base don't interfere with mounting the throttle to the plate. If you plan to unmount your throttle occasionally, it could be annoying, because the AB/idle detent riser would move whenever you loosened the bolts. I think cutting the rails (or sliding them to the left to make more of an inverted T shape with the vertical rails, rather than an L shape, if you have the space on the left side) is the best way to go. It exposes the right side mounting screws which is enough. I currently just have the right two screws mounted, and it's fine. It's a throttle, not a stick, so I don't put a lot of force on it, and the force I do apply is always low to the throttle and on the Y axis, never a rotational force on the X, which might cause the unbolted side to rise up.

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I have been using Heavy Duty Velcro strips that you can buy at Walmart. Does not move and I cannot tell you the number of changes I have made with various flight simulations over the last 20 years, all made easier by mounting my controls this way.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wow, so the only real way to make this work with the Monstertech mount is to velcro the throttle to the plate rather than use the screws.

That's ridiculous.  Guess I need to get some velcro then.

Posted
vor 22 Stunden schrieb CybrSlydr:

Wow, so the only real way to make this work with the Monstertech mount is to velcro the throttle to the plate rather than use the screws.

That's ridiculous.  Guess I need to get some velcro then.

It works really well though. I followed the suggestion with the 3M dual lock and I can absolutely recommend it. 

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image.png

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys, just an FYI I was able to mount the F16 Orion to my J-PEIN mounts with nuts and bolts, ironically just as the manual suggested. I first tried heavy duty velcro, but the throttle was so wobbly it wasn't working. I found a kit on Amazon with the exact bolts (M4) and a variety of screw lengths. I chose the 16mm screws with 2 washers each.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S18NHP5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

First thing I did was take the guide rail off and re mount the rails on the top and bottom of the base so that the slot is as aligned as possible to the holes. Then I reattached the rail and adjusted it again to the full throw of the throttle.

I flipped the whole thing upside down on my lap and put the J-PEIN on it. One at a time I slid a M4 nut into the slot, and used the included screwdriver to slowly push the nut into the slot until it lined up with a hole. I then took a 16mm screw and put 2 washers on (big enough not to slip through the J-PEIN channel) and threaded it carefully into the nut, mostly tight but still moveable. Once I got all 4 in and adjusted, I really cranked the screws down. 

This thing is SOLID. So, WinWing was right, despite the holes not lining up perfectly, it works great!

 

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  • 2 months later...
Posted

Just an FYI the solution above by Magoo5150 also works for mounting the Orion2 throttle to the MonsterTech plate for the TM Warthog Throttle. The only difference being that you don't need to use any washers with the 16mm M4 screw due, I presume, to the MonsterTech plate being a few mm thicker than the j-pein.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Old post I know  but I am just mounting mine now. This is ridiculous. An extremely expensive monstertech mount should have any issues whatsoever. Shouldnt need to drill or modify in any manner at all for the price we paid for this bloody thing

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

The F16 throttle rails seem to have some wiggle room. They did not perfectly align with the mounting holes at first. I then loosened the screws holding the rails and moved the rails so that M4 screws fited through the mounting holes into the rail slots. Placing the M4 nuts into the rails was a game of patience. I finally glued them to a toothpick using sticky tape so that I could move them back and forth until the screws got grip in the nuts. 

 

For switching from the F16 throttle to the F18, F15 or BS collective, I leave the lower rails on the throttle and just remove the upper part. 

Edited by Waxi
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Stick and Throttle mounted.   No issues with mounting holes on either.  I placed a screw in the metal slot on the Throttle and it lined up with the mounting plate on my support just right. Lucked out I guess.

I have this mounting bracket.

https://a.co/d/hGFHaxP

I spent some time assigning buttons and such.  The joystick out of the box was already assigned, but the throttle needed some work.

So far very good.  I was surprised at the range of motion on the joystick (not much range of motion)

Mike

 

 

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