Making a USB UFC for A-10 C`

[Boot910]

Nice, Boot! I have found it hard finding suitable buttons for this via my usual online haunts in the UK (flea-bay / RS online / Maplin).

 

only 63 USD for 1-off? I must not have paid much attention when I did some cursory designing to get me the ball-park figure that I quoted. What size is the panel you designed? And was that 4mm perspex?

 

How about attaching the design file? ;-)

 

Here's the file for Front Panel Designer.

 

The panel dimensions are 225mm x 50mm. I'm using 1.5mm thick black anodized aluminum for the front panel material.

 

As for linking the buttons, yes you will have to do that. I was looking at the U-HID controller card, but I'm sure one of the other available interface cards will do just as well. I'm not yet sure how I want the buttons to interact. The U-HID card is pretty versatile. I was leaning towards having the buttons reported as game pad buttons.

A10C_UFC_R08.rar

[Succellus]

Here's the file for Front Panel Designer.

 

The panel dimensions are 225mm x 50mm. I'm using 1.5mm thick black anodized aluminum for the front panel material.

 

As for linking the buttons, yes you will have to do that. I was looking at the U-HID controller card, but I'm sure one of the other available interface cards will do just as well. I'm not yet sure how I want the buttons to interact. The U-HID card is pretty versatile. I was leaning towards having the buttons reported as game pad buttons.

 

With my 0 (Zero) knowledge i owuld say the safer way is reproducing keyboards strokes, as fas as it is now, you can t go much more versatile than that, i think. My half a cent.

[Succellus]

With my 0(zero) knowledge, if i where you i would go keyboard stroke emulator, can t go more versatile than that with current tech, and head room is always a good thing, cause this pit disease is an evoluting bastards that grip you by the balls. Just my half a cent

[Steel Jaw]

I say if you don't have a wife to stop you then go for it.

 

Oh Gawd: aint that the truth. :(

[shu77]

Here's an image of the UFC panel I setup in Front Panel Designer program along with the parts I'm looking to use. Couldn't find anything closer for the Master Caution button. Also, it looks like I'll have to modify one of the square buttons to make the rectangular Enter button. Maybe build up the sides with epoxy or something. The price for this panel as drawn is about $63 USD. Not sure how much it'd cost for a complete enclosure which they can also make.

 

 

Yeah thats about the same price I got from FPE, I ended up using a similar set of measurements, I found a nice programmable 32 key keyboard emulator with screw based wire connectors for 30 US thats designed for MAME based arcade games, and was looking at similar buttons, but then I figure if youre spending $100 on the base plate and circuit, and probably another $10 for the switches off e-bay plus wire, probably a breadboard to hold it all steady and an enclosure.

 

I figure if you spend that sort of money you dont really want dymo label buttons on it. No news yet on what a custom set of buttons would cost, but I did ask the question so will let you know.

[pitbull]

Guys,

have a look at this:

 

http://www.hidmacros.eu/

 

You can then buy 1 or 2 usb num keypad ( got 2 for 10$ @ Walmart myself.

 

HID Macro can see any keyboard / controllers as different units, and can assign keystrokes to any key on any controllers.

 

That's a cheap alternative the CH MFP. I ran into issues and was unable to make it work with BS and A10c. The thing works with FSX... I don't what i'm doing wrong but i'm pretty confident i'll find a way though... someday.

 

Pit

[Total]

I'm just going to bridge it into my X-keys USB matrix board (I have some ope assignments on it) and make the panel myself. For 128 programmable buttons, it ain't a bad little board to have around :D

[rocketeer]

Also, it looks like I'll have to modify one of the square buttons to make the rectangular Enter button. Maybe build up the sides with epoxy or something.

 

Boot, this is great find! The dimension for the key square and round key caps are perfect, so is the illuminted push button from NKK. Personally though I'd prefer the one that sticks out eg. UB03KW035F-FF but that's just me.

 

For teh rectangular Enter button how I'll do it is to make a rectangular box, but a square cap in it upside down with the top facing down. Then pour casting resin (which I have a big bottle) up to the height of the cap but not to spill over to avoid it flowing into the underside of the cap. Dry overnight and my square cap is now rectangular.

 

I really like the NKK PB find. It is a push button, the rectangular dimension is ideal enough and is also illuminated. Thank you!

[Boot910]

Boot, this is great find! The dimension for the key square and round key caps are perfect, so is the illuminted push button from NKK. Personally though I'd prefer the one that sticks out eg. UB03KW035F-FF but that's just me.

 

For teh rectangular Enter button how I'll do it is to make a rectangular box, but a square cap in it upside down with the top facing down. Then pour casting resin (which I have a big bottle) up to the height of the cap but not to spill over to avoid it flowing into the underside of the cap. Dry overnight and my square cap is now rectangular.

 

I really like the NKK PB find. It is a push button, the rectangular dimension is ideal enough and is also illuminated. Thank you!

 

Glad to help. This stuff is a lot of fun!

Great idea for the Enter key cap. I wish I could find a button for the Master Caution that was closer, but you gotta work with what you can find!

Speaking of the MC button. The one I spec'd out has the LED circuit separate from the push button which is what I was going for. The big question is whether or not the state of that light is something that can be exported from the sim or not.

 

I've gotten a bit further along in the design process. If I go with Front Panel Express to also do the enclosure then I may have to change the positions of the components a bit to fit properly. I created a mock-up in Lightwave 3D of the panel components. Unfortunately for the enclosure style I'm looking at it requires M5 screws in the corners for the self-tapping extrusions. M5's take up a good amount of space on a 50mm high panel so I'll have to move the STEER rocker and relocate the plus and minus characters to the side. Also had to move the rest of the buttons/switches a small amount to make room for the top/bottom/side panels.

 

Now I'm looking into a PCB solution for mounting the push buttons. Pad2Pad and ExpressPCB both seem reasonable for making prototype boards. I'll post an updated image of the front panel when I get everything in place.

Edited December 12, 2010 by Boot910
readability

[WarriorX]

Boot and Rocketeer, will you guys post pics of the build in progress and when it's done...I would love to see the finished product.

[Boot910]

Boot and Rocketeer, will you guys post pics of the build in progress and when it's done...I would love to see the finished product.

 

Absolutely. When I finish modeling the rockers and MC switch I'll post a render of what it should look like when done.

[reilar]

This is a great thread. Boot and Rocketeer, I really looking forward to your results. Hopefully I can get some inspiration to make a UFC panel by myself. I already have the Cougar MFD's and it is really awkward to switch between pushing buttons on the MFD's and using the mouse to push the UFC buttons. It takes away a lot of the suspension of disbelief.

[Boot910]

After much adjusting and tweaking to make sure everything will fit with the components I've opted to use, here's what the finished product should look like more or less.

 

[71st_Mastiff]

I would love to buy that

[JaseGill]

I'd buy that in an instant.

Or even buy a kit if you thought of doing one.

Its just what I have been looking for.

Will be following thus thread with great interest.

J.

[reilar]

Awesome Boot. As JaseGill said, I'm equally interested in buying that as a kit. If you somehow manage to put the parts together (with the panel) and instructions of how to assamble the parts, I will be very interested.

[Boot910]

Awesome Boot. As JaseGill said, I'm equally interested in buying that as a kit. If you somehow manage to put the parts together (with the panel) and instructions of how to assamble the parts, I will be very interested.

 

I don't think I'll get involved in making kits to sell. I don't think it'd be worth it in the long run.

 

However, I'm certainly willing to provide updates, pictures, info, instructions, part numbers, files, etc. during the build free of charge so that anyone else who's interested can build their own too.

I'm sure to have a few questions of my own to ask once it gets time to start hooking everything up. The work has certainly been interesting.

 

:pilotfly:

[sweinhart3]

I plan to build one as well at some point. I can get away with a $5 microcontroller, a pcb and ome buttons. The biggest issue Iface is creating the actual buttons and the front frame. I dont have equipment to make perfectly square cuts. I have the equipment to program a micro controller an Ive already played with creating the code.

[reilar]

I don't think I'll get involved in making kits to sell. I don't think it'd be worth it in the long run.

 

Well, that's perfectly understandable. And I will be more than happy if you could share your findings on part numbers and the assambly.

Thanks for sharing:thumbup:

[JaseGill]

Boot,

Sorry, not trying to turn you into a manufacturing plant.

Very very interesting thread though and like the others here I appreciate all your hard work.

Also like the others I'm no manufacturer or have any idea how to go about it. If you find that we can somehow mass buy the panels and the custom buttons though and that in itself somehow lowers your prototyping costs I'd be happy to join in on a mass purchase of "bits".

Its the hardware that I find difficult, like Sweinhart I have some experience of the software side and could help if necessary.

Crowd Surfing for us Sim fanatics it seems is alive and well, long may it continue :)

J.

[Boot910]

Hehehe... no worries.

 

I'm just not set up to start any sort of manufacturing business. I have a pretty good idea how to go about this, but I haven't done a project like this before.

 

I will definitely share any info I learn, offer whatever help I can, and give a running tally on prices etc. for anyone who wants to have a go at making their own like the one I'm looking to put together.

 

There are some parts that will be troublesome. For instance, the Enter key will need to be modified/custom-made since I haven't been able to find an appropriate commercial product yet. There seems to be fairly long lead times on the round button caps. The rocker switches are somewhat scarce to find in-stock as well. It may turn out to be worth it to pool a bunch of people together and order the parts and then mail out "kits"

 

I have no idea how hard the final assembly will be. Right now I'm trying to design the pcboard the push button switches will be mounted on, and assuming I don't screw that up :D It'll be quite a bit of soldering once the parts come in.

I'm pretty much finished with the enclosure/front panel. With FrontPanelExpress.com you have to design all six sides. With all that, their total cost looks like it's going to run around $200 US. The front panel by itself is around $68 for anyone who'd want to do their own enclosure.

I'll gather up all the quotes and stuff I have a bit later and give a the current total. That should be eye opening. :joystick:

[JaseGill]

Boot,

Again thanks very much for taking the time to keep us all up to date whilst doing development work too.

Its a very cool plan for a very cool, authentic looking bit of kit and I'm sure I speak for others here when I say I'm watching this with great interest.

Rep incoming too.

J.

[rocketeer]

When you create the Enter button cap by dipping the square cap into a box with resin, use the omron switch as well, tie the switch with the square cap upside down attached to a flat stick, then place over a container. don't put it all the way to the botton. don't touch the bottom. Leave a small gap of say 3mm. This way not only will the resin found around the sides to become a rectangular shape, but the gap will mean the top of the cap is uniform and smooth as well and does not show the edge of the square cap is put all the way to the bottom. I guess I am stating the obvious.

 

If you can't get the NKK push button switch with LED for the master caution, you can make an even better rectangular cap like above with the omron switch in the middle and place two LEDs at the sides. Just sand the bottom of the cap to help distribute the light evenly.

[Boot910]

When you create the Enter button cap by dipping the square cap into a box with resin, use the omron switch as well, tie the switch with the square cap upside down attached to a flat stick, then place over a container. don't put it all the way to the botton. don't touch the bottom. Leave a small gap of say 3mm. This way not only will the resin found around the sides to become a rectangular shape, but the gap will mean the top of the cap is uniform and smooth as well and does not show the edge of the square cap is put all the way to the bottom. I guess I am stating the obvious.

 

If you can't get the NKK push button switch with LED for the master caution, you can make an even better rectangular cap like above with the omron switch in the middle and place two LEDs at the sides. Just sand the bottom of the cap to help distribute the light evenly.

 

Thanks for the info rocketeer! I will do that for the Enter key. Was thinking of sanding the key that will serve as the enter key's base so that there's a bit more surface area for the resin to stick to. Might trim the "top" and "bottom" edges of the cap as well so the resin can flow around all 4 sides and still the right size vertically. Doesn't look like there will be a problem getting the NKK pushbutton. Not perfect, but it will do the job without adding to the workload. I'm doing the pcboard for the tact switches now (everything but the 5 rockers and Master Caution button). I'm doing it as a 2-layer pcboard. I'll post images of the layers when I'm done to see if anyone sees any problems. It'll be a tight fit on there.

[hog_driver111th]

I'm planning on making this same panel, but for me it would be out of wood, since I don't have any way to machine panels (just me, my dremel tool, and a block of wood). I had used frontpanelexpress to build the front panel, and it looks pretty good (for me at least). I would probably make the buttons out of wood also, but I have no idea how to make a pcboard. I was thinking I could just wire tactile switches to an OC mastercard to a USB card... or is that the wrong route? If I can "machine" the front panel out of wood (doesn't need to be backlit for now), are you ordering the buttons from somewhere that are the right size? I have them measured at 9mm square (using the buttons from my TM MFDs as reference).

I could sure use a parts and price list as there are some things I may want to just buy and save time on.