Strix Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) I did use wood! I used 2*7mm plywood. Then i cut out holes for switches in the lower part and made some 2mm holes on upper part for nuts!! So I don't see them when putting on a laminated paper on top. Will post my latest pics... I almost finished my left side consol. I even made a Landinggear switch :D And due to it being a landing gear I stuck a radio-controlled airplane-wheel on it :pilotfly: My biggest problem is that I use my computer to a racing to, so I cant make it as low as it is on drawing! I increased the height by 150mm due to my seat is on top off my computer!! So I cant go lower :doh: So I will NOT build the front of pit, its in the way for racing... Maybe I will half the right side, or I gone have problems to get out of my seat... Need to move it... My desk is about 900mm over floor so I got some limitations to everything. Of course all holes on top is countersunk with marginals to fasten nuts whit a tool! Deep is about 2mm and hole width is 20mm for 12mm switches and 12mm for 6mm switches! A switch is about 7-8mm in high, so you need to make sure the tread is enough up on top so you can screw the frigging nut on it. Underneath i make the holes as big as the switches base is. About 30mm on big switches and 16 on small. First I did saw out a frame, but that was no good, better is to drill hole for every switch, then you got a sturdier frame! Edited September 24, 2011 by Strix Remembered things Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avlolga Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 One of the best pit thread - love your work metric, most of the pdf are scale 1/1 New seat implemented. The seat as been designed by a french guy "OLR". Here you can see the virtual model : I don't know if he plan to release plans, but it lookk very good, but require some serious work (lots of parts). We found some little mistakes, but it looks quite good already. The autor already build it. I made a short pause but i will start to work on the external ribs soon. Coupled with some pictures, i've seen that my stick base is probably 3 centimeter too close of the center console. I will be gratefull if someone can give me the exact dimension of an Ace II seat, especially the width. to dimebug and all... WOW !!! i am new around here and thanks to your thread i am starting my project too. I like to know if you have seat dimensions too? (love the way you share.) i am planing to buy CNC this week and hope it will be ready for work next Friday. i am looking for the panels stencils, dimensions (each panel), the recommended thickness. I want to light the text and the switches too. (how to? ) the basic sw plate will be 3mm aluminum and i like to know what is the recommended material for the panels? any information / help will be grate. if working with the CNC will be smooth - i will love to share it with you !!! Again ...Thanks to you all in this cool pit thread. Avlolga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avlolga Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 cool !!! i am looking for a site to buy long lever SW can you provide one ? Grate work Strix !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtop Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Strix that was greatly helpful, thanks a lot. I notice you, like me, have used MDF, and no rails. How did fitting the panel wood go for you? Looking at how thin the little stubs that hold the panels are, I'm worried they'd fall apart if I drilled into them for screws. 476th vFG Alumni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 some buliding pictures from various guys : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Ragtop, i suggest you to go for alluminium rails, they are easy to drill ect.. and will live muche better than MDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtop Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 What about taking screws to fasten the panels down? Would I need to use nut and bolts instead? I was planning on using a hardwood rail as it seemed perhaps easier to fix panels to, as I can't imagine how I'd fix to aluminium, but I trust you guys judgement more than my own, so I'd like to see how you've actually gone about fixing panels down! 476th vFG Alumni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Nice shots! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strix Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Thx avlolga. Sorry, cant provide any site for that. I live in Sweden:) Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumper Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Bump!!! Lumper ------------------------------------------- When the going gets tough, the smart cutout. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strix Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) Strix that was greatly helpful, thanks a lot. I notice you, like me, have used MDF, and no rails. How did fitting the panel wood go for you? Looking at how thin the little stubs that hold the panels are, I'm worried they'd fall apart if I drilled into them for screws. MFD is no god when it is to thin! As the stubs! It will crack, so u need to drill for screws. (big enough!!) Else it will separate. i did screw BESIDES he stubs, down in to framework with long screws!! sry for my late reply! Look at pic! One thing is for sure, u don't need to open up as big hole as I did if u use MFD!! Then u can fasten the screw in the "stubs" if u make them bigger! If u use alu/steel rails, then u have to use a thin panel! If u use plywood, u can use thicker panels! And hide the nut! I did use 2*7mm ply, when the lower one is for fasten in frame and the upper one is for switches. And then I fasten the upper in lower with small flat-headed screws... I have almost finished my left panels! Everything behind throttle/sas panels, is only paper pics! And i did put the elec pwr panel on left, besides landing panel, because I cant build the right side yet! And I want the switches now... Probably gone do Air panel to over elec panel...... for now...... I am out of switches and money :mad: I even bought some turning-nobs and fasten them in where they would be :music_whistling: Looks better then some uggly drawing of it. Edited September 24, 2011 by Strix Pics! Others Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 At the end of the Week, i will be at a French Flightsimshow at Le Bourget airport/museum. Icemaker should come with his cockpit. We will try to take some picture there. some pictures from coyote 89 : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtop Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Looking great! You're done a real service for the DCS community Dimebug, you should be proud. :thumb up: Strix thats some awesome progress! I've got one panel half done in my build thread haha, yours has come along very quickly! What USB board have you used, does it work well with potentiometers? Edited September 26, 2011 by Ragtop 476th vFG Alumni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strix Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Looking great! You're done a real service for the DCS community Dimebug, you should be proud. :thumb up: Strix thats some awesome progress! I've got one panel half done in my build thread haha, yours has come along very quickly! What USB board have you used, does it work well with potentiometers? Heheh... I did not rush with mine! Only worked on it every second day at most :cry: I use GP-Wiz 40! And I have 3 of them now!!! But I DONT use any potentiometers, because I don't know how to....:helpsmilie: I would like to use pots, but I need help to do it. Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtop Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Strix, take a look at this thread, there's some useful information, particularly Fael097's posts towards the end. I'm tackling the lighting panel next so I'll be with you on this rocky road! Here's a pic of my current progress BTW ;P 476th vFG Alumni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Looking great Ragtop. That seat looks like a good fit/choice. http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Some picture of Icemaker pit, taken at the "mondial de la simulation" show in Paris/Le Bourget last weekend. Sorry for the poor quality, it's taken with my phone, in a hurry... Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtop Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Beautiful! Looks great. Thats tempted me to have a go at the CMSP too, looks like a fairly simple one until you get to the display!0 476th vFG Alumni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hog_driver111th Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Dime, can you recommend a good place to get the landing gear handle... one that can light up? A-10C - FC3 - CA - L-39 - UH1 - P-51 - Hawk - BS2 - F-86 - Gazelle - F-5E - AV8B - F/A-18C i5-4590 - GTX 1060 - Oculus CV1 - TM:Warthog [sIGPIC]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic9979_1.gif[/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Hog look here I did use wood! I used 2*7mm plywood. Then i cut out holes for switches in the lower part and made some 2mm holes on upper part for nuts!! So I don't see them when putting on a laminated paper on top. Will post my latest pics... I almost finished my left side consol. I even made a Landinggear switch :D And due to it being a landing gear I stuck a radio-controlled airplane-wheel on it :pilotfly: My biggest problem is that I use my computer to a racing to, so I cant make it as low as it is on drawing! I increased the height by 150mm due to my seat is on top off my computer!! So I cant go lower :doh: So I will NOT build the front of pit, its in the way for racing... Maybe I will half the right side, or I gone have problems to get out of my seat... Need to move it... My desk is about 900mm over floor so I got some limitations to everything. Of course all holes on top is countersunk with marginals to fasten nuts whit a tool! Deep is about 2mm and hole width is 20mm for 12mm switches and 12mm for 6mm switches! A switch is about 7-8mm in high, so you need to make sure the tread is enough up on top so you can screw the frigging nut on it. Underneath i make the holes as big as the switches base is. About 30mm on big switches and 16 on small. First I did saw out a frame, but that was no good, better is to drill hole for every switch, then you got a sturdier frame! https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebug Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 i don't know how Icemaker did is landing gear handle but i will ask him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Wow looks outstanding! Great job! Damn that pesky keyboard and the fact there is no where to put it! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtop Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Haha, I'll be tackling that soon too! Hopefully I can find a solution haha, I'm thinking an arm from the wall on the left might be a good idea. 476th vFG Alumni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strix Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 dimebug! Excellent work!! Wish I could do it to....:( Is all your knobs and rotary working??? I made my gear lever of an thick aluminium profile that I bend with great force... Then I stuck it true the wood and made a solution in the back using a bolt to hold the leaver, I used some rubber spacer to make it hard to move! I control the hardness if I loosen or tighten the nuts. I use a on/on switch that goes in a hole in the aluminium leaver with a o-ring to make it smooth. I had to mount the switch very close to the bolt or the movement was to big for it. Look at pics! sry for bad quality of pics! Sry Ragtop! I am still lost in space when it comes to read and learn. Need pics and drawings :D Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Ice Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 I'm hoping to build the center console, but some of the plans do not have the angles of the cuts on them, just measurements. How do I go about building this? - Ice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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