Group Purchase Jay-EL Light button

[frank8886]

Hi all,

 

I want to make a group purcahse of Jay-EL or Korry Light button for Nav mode select panel and Tisle control panel, if anybody interested, please post your name for list, lower cost and full set purchase for purpose.

 

And please provide the original design and spec for purchase

 

Thank you

 

[danipelos]

I don't know the specific dimensions of those switches, but here you can find 15x15mm and 19x19mm "korry" type switches:

 

 

http://hispapanels.com/tienda22/product_info.php?cPath=21_51&products_id=326

 

http://hispapanels.com/tienda22/product_info.php?cPath=21_51&products_id=335

[Deadman]

Those don't look any thing like a Korry switchs I think they are 19mm x 19 I will check when i get home are you looking for real switches ? They can be very expensive new.

[Mike Powell]

You might take a look at Honeywell AML series switches. They're not cheap, but they're much less expensive than Jay-El and Korry.

[moken]

Thanks all,

 

Yes, I want to use real switch, I think anybody want too, so I try to make a group purchase for bargain the lowest prices and give anybody know the cost of panel as real look , thank you your information that much helful

[moken]

Thank you frank help us , I will help frank take a list including me for this operation, thank you

[frank8886]

Thx your assist and interested,

 

I am not always online reply your PM,

 

if any question by PM, please wait

[Deadman]

mine are not marked with a manufacture only PN 10648 the push button face is 15mm sq and the body 17mm sq

Here are the spec

 

5930-01-393-4366 ( MIL-S-22885/77, 013934366, 10648, 10648-CNE ) Characteristics Data

 

MRC Criteria Characteristic CRLD NONPILE-UP CONTACT ARRANGEMENT 2 POLE, DOUBLE THROW, TWO POSITIONS MOMENTARY SINGLE SWITCH UNIT AFXE MAXIMUM VOLTAGE RATING IN VOLTS 115.0 AC AND 28.0 DC AAQL BODY STYLE 46K PANEL MOUNTED ADAT BODY WIDTH 0.750 INCHES NOMINAL ADAU BODY HEIGHT 0.900 INCHES NOMINAL AJWX MOUNTING SURFACE TO TERMINAL END DISTANCE 3.850 INCHES MAXIMUM AFUQ ACTUATOR STYLE 13 RECTANGULAR TTQY TERMINAL TYPE AND QUANTITY 11 TAB, SOLDER LUG AKNA INCLOSURE TYPE HERMETICALLY SEALED AXGY MOUNTING METHOD PANEL SR-1 MANUFACTURERS CODE 96906 SR-1 DEFINITIVE GOVERNMENT SPEC/STD REFERENCE MIL-S-22885/77

Edited April 29, 2012 by Deadman

[TomDK]

I am interested ... but also still interested in Deathman´s full set :)

[y2kiah]

btw guys, I looked into buying these switches new. I only looked at one manufacturer but the quote I got was over $600 per switch. I can't imagine others would be too far off. But your $4,200 NMSP would be really nice. :smilewink:

[Gadroc]

I'd love to get some of these, but fear the cost as y2kiah indicated. We would have to find a significantly cheaper source, and even then there is a lot of money involved in a group buy like this so finding the right way to transact will be important.

[agrasyuk]

btw guys, I looked into buying these switches new. I only looked at one manufacturer but the quote I got was over $600 per switch. I can't imagine others would be too far off. But your $4,200 NMSP would be really nice. :smilewink:

 

what is really sad here is that those spending our tax money to buy those switches don't even give it a thought. 600 a switch? suuure! makes me sick

[Jimbo]

I would honestly shy away from using the real thing; especially at that price point.

 

I managed to get my hands on an A model NMSP Panel which i'm converting to use in the pit. However (and this may not be the case with the newer models) the switches each contain 4 incandescent bulbs, which I am unable to drive with a Phidgets LED board, and hence no Helios support.

 

The design of the switch makes it almost impossible (I havent figured it out yet!) to easily and cheaply swap the bulbs for LEDs due to the way the switch is made (very difficult to describe but i'll post pics if asked) and at the very least i'd have to destroy the switch to cheaply put an LED in.

 

The only easy solution i've found is to replace the bulbs with these type of LEDS http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/689826-led-midget-flange-t1-3-4-12v-grn-1510125ug3.html; but they seem to be about an averave $50 each; or $1400 to replace the lot!!!

 

I think anyone with a laser cutter / CNC could knock one of these up for a fraction of the price. I'll happily provide dimensions / pics if anyone is willingto make one of these.

[Deadman]

jimbo the bulbs should be a standard T1¾ bulbs these can be 5vDC or 28vDC so power cold be your problem. Here is a link to an easy way to modify the bulb to LED.

http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=3437.new

[Gadroc]

Deadman,

 

Thanks for that link... been looking for it!

[Deadman]

Your welcome :thumbup:

[Jimbo]

jimbo the bulbs should be a standard T1¾ bulbs these can be 5vDC or 28vDC so power cold be your problem. Here is a link to an easy way to modify the bulb to LED.

http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=3437.new

 

Thanks Deadman! Very much appreciated! :thumbup:

 

Well, I know what i'm up to this weekend :)

[Deadman]

Your welcome with out seeing your switches this should work with out breaking the switch in any way. The bulb/lens holder should just pull straight out seaperating from the body with the bulbs slid in to the back of it the wiring diagram is usualy printed on the side of the switch. Personal i think going Real with the switches save time and money but that is just me :cry:

[Jimbo]

Thats right, the bulb holder pops right out so I can easily get to the bulbs.

 

The problem has always been how to connect an LED to the existing connection poles burried in the body of the switch (you'll know what I mean if you've seen one). The solution you've provided solves all of the above - Actually, it was pretty obvious so i'm kicking myself for not thinking of it myself :)

[y2kiah]

hey guys is nobody else seeing this redirect to upsis.ru at viperpits? I haven't been able to get to the site in days. It's happening on multiple computers so I ruled out that it's anything local.

 

Edit: nevermind, I emptied my browser cache and it stopped

Edited May 3, 2012 by y2kiah

[Gadroc]

Clear your cache. He has DB problems they fixed the redirect but data is missing from the last several months.

[Lumper]

They are changing hosts, website should be back to normal within the next two weeks, unless real life interupts K-bar.

[metalnwood]

Anybody ever thought about making these kinds of switches and using cheap glow in the dark panels instead of EL? Obvious issue is that you can't turn it off with the flick of a switch but they will look good in the dark and won't be really lit up with the lights on.

 

You then only need a very small light source behind to keep them charged.

 

I might give it a go, just to see

 

EDIT: Doh, must have had a brain fart typing that, of course you don't want the lights lingering or you don't know whats engaged! doh.

Edited May 5, 2012 by metalnwood

[Mike Powell]

If you want to try making a Jay-El/Korry style push button switch, here's a resource for you: http://home.hccnet.nl/jwopdenakker/building%20tip.html

[metalnwood]

Thanks Mike.

 

When I had thought of making these kinds of buttons in the past I had though of pocketing out the acrylic so that I could put a laser cut template behind the front of the switch. The though here was that there would be no wear on the front of the surface and would probably look a little better.

 

The only issue is the CNC gives a polished finish to the sides but not to the the bottom of the pocket. Perhaps it could be heated to fix that, I haven't tried.