Lucky Posted October 19, 2013 Posted October 19, 2013 A re-grease with some M-kote EM-30L sorted my sticktion problems I keep the o-ring well greased and so far so good, but getting rid of the crap grease they use is the best thing I have done for my warthog. Same here. Had plenty of stiction. Removed what little original lube there was, and there wasn't very much at all. Lubed with M-kote EM-30L. What a difference. Smooth as butter. Added a 5" extension and it is smooth as glass. I bought one of the o-rings but have not needed it yet. Saving it just in case. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo, Core i9 11900K @ 5.0GHz, Corsair H150i CPU cooler, Asus Prime Z590-A, Radeon RX6800 XT64GB, Team T-Force Delta DDR4 3600, Corsair RM1000X PSU, Win 11 x64
VampireNZ Posted November 6, 2013 Posted November 6, 2013 The o-ring is not responsible for the static friction... the four poles and the inner ball joint are responsible for most of the static friction. As stated above, the 4 poles are mainly responsible..see my post linked below over at the greasing Warthog thread for a simple fix to help remove a LOT of the stiction and also lighten the stick...just by adding a few washers. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=80787&page=9 However the teflon ring will definitely contribute...mine is in the mail right now! Thanks Hempstead :thumbup: Vampire
ronin516 Posted December 31, 2013 Posted December 31, 2013 Great fix I Made a video with the BEST fix for the warthog. I have never felt anything smoother now. I have tried a few different things. And this fixes the issues with the hotas warthog. It goes into detail on complete disassembly. here it is :D --->
Siq6Six Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) So yesterday I noticed suddenly I had a very ODD feel to my stick. In one direction it'd have Much less resistance than the rest. Its also binding up.. So I open it up with a strong inclination of the cause, and sure enough... Looks like I need a new o-ring... was hoping it'd just be in need of a good lubing! How are those custom ones you've made comin along? Still have extras? Edit: Forgot to add -the top of the stock o-ring split off of the rest. It seems like it Was glued or some such - its of a different texture than the rest of the o-ring. I just ripped the rest of it off, its not thick at all tho. Stuffed the rubber ring back in place. I have a feeling it came out of place because after putting the stick back together I still had the same issues as mentioned above. Soft spots, catching. I didnt re-lube because initial tear down was for inspection. Didn't have grease on hand. Edited May 30, 2014 by Siq6Six [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Hempstead Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 I still have them in stock and will make more if necessary (current number of stock is in the 70s... I went hog wild making them one weekend ;-). So, if you wish to buy some, send me a PM. Although the mailing and material costs have gone up quite a bit since I started making them. I am too lazy to raise the price. I am fine with not losing money on it. So, they are still USD $8 apiece. So yesterday I noticed suddenly I had a very ODD feel to my stick. In one direction it'd have Much less resistance than the rest. Its also binding up.. So I open it up with a strong inclination of the cause, and sure enough... Looks like I need a new o-ring... was hoping it'd just be in need of a good lubing! How are those custom ones you've made comin along? Still have extras? Edit: Forgot to add -the top of the stock o-ring split off of the rest. It seems like it Was glued or some such - its of a different texture than the rest of the o-ring. I just ripped the rest of it off, its not thick at all tho. Stuffed the rubber ring back in place. I have a feeling it came out of place because after putting the stick back together I still had the same issues as mentioned above. Soft spots, catching. I didnt re-lube because initial tear down was for inspection. Didn't have grease on hand.
Siq6Six Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 Wow thanks for the quick response! Didn't expect one that quick lol I'll be sending you a PM about ordering one [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
hitman Posted May 31, 2014 Posted May 31, 2014 Any chance I can order a few as well? And any chance you can produce one that is twice as thick as the original?
xxJohnxx Posted May 31, 2014 Posted May 31, 2014 I had a look into my Warthog and as it turned out the o-ring was still in place however there were some plastic chips in that area. I used some Ballistol (according to the lable used for weapon maintanance and cleaning of dog-ears) to remove the old grease. It worked very good on the metall surfaces, but not so good on plastic surfaces. Then I used some industrial type grease (apparently produced to be used for greasing gear racks) to grease up all the moving parts, including the very sticky plastic gimbal. On the gimbal I couldn't remove the old grease because I didn't want to pull it apart, because I wasn't to keen on resoldering the ribbon cable. So I just applied the grease from the side. A bit messy but worked pretty well in the end. After putting it together I could definatelly notice an improvent. I have it for about 2 years now, and it became very sticky. Now it is almost like new again. I might also consider replacing the o-ring. Check out my YouTube: xxJohnxx Intel i7 6800k watercooled | ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 | 32 GB RAM | Asus GTX1080 watercooled
Hempstead Posted May 31, 2014 Posted May 31, 2014 For ordering stock PTFE rings, just PM me and I will send you the info. for ordering. As to making thicker PTFE ring twice as thick as the original Warthog ring... the original Warthog O-ring is about 1.56mm thick. The stock PTFE ring is 3.175mm (1/8" thick), slightly more than 2x as thick already. Or do you mean that you want one that is 1/4" thick? I am not entirely sure if that will fit inside the Warthog without interfering with the upward movement of the spring piston platform. If your purpose is to have more spring force... I'd suggest making some steel rings and put them at the end of the main spring. Don't put it at the platform end. The platform has a groove to center the spring so the spring does not chafe against the platform wall. If machining a steel ring is a problem for you.... A hackish way of doing it is to take a steel wire (or bronze/brass wire you commonly find in HomeDepot for tying brushes in your garden), bend it into a ring of exactly the same diameter of the main spring, hammer it slightly flat, then use some tie wire to attach it to the end of the main spring. But I will not suggest welding/brazing the new ring to the main spring... it's kind of irreversible with welding/brazing, and the welding/brazing heat might affect the tamper of the spring... Any chance I can order a few as well? And any chance you can produce one that is twice as thick as the original?
hitman Posted May 31, 2014 Posted May 31, 2014 For ordering stock PTFE rings, just PM me and I will send you the info. for ordering. As to making thicker PTFE ring twice as thick as the original Warthog ring... the original Warthog O-ring is about 1.56mm thick. The stock PTFE ring is 3.175mm (1/8" thick), slightly more than 2x as thick already. Or do you mean that you want one that is 1/4" thick? I am not entirely sure if that will fit inside the Warthog without interfering with the upward movement of the spring piston platform. If your purpose is to have more spring force... I'd suggest making some steel rings and put them at the end of the main spring. Don't put it at the platform end. The platform has a groove to center the spring so the spring does not chafe against the platform wall. If machining a steel ring is a problem for you.... A hackish way of doing it is to take a steel wire (or bronze/brass wire you commonly find in HomeDepot for tying brushes in your garden), bend it into a ring of exactly the same diameter of the main spring, hammer it slightly flat, then use some tie wire to attach it to the end of the main spring. But I will not suggest welding/brazing the new ring to the main spring... it's kind of irreversible with welding/brazing, and the welding/brazing heat might affect the tamper of the spring... Just the O ring gasket, the rubber seal. Mine came loose one day and from time to time it works itself out. I molykoted the crap out of it and it stays put most of the time now. I realized that this thing should be thicker than it actually is now, it helps tighten up the stick. I like a tight stick...
Hempstead Posted July 14, 2014 Posted July 14, 2014 You can now PM me at http://www.hempstick.org/jforum to order the PTFE ring. Does not matter which way you do it, PM here or there, I get an email notification and my computer dings me about it. 1
Berndt Mangler Posted July 15, 2014 Posted July 15, 2014 PM here or there, I get an email notification and my computer dings me about it. Thank you the process to get them was pretty easy, and they look real good, thank you for your time. your helping to make an awesome product even awsome'er. Its good to know this is still available, some of the links I'd found had some old dates on them. I don't know that I need them yet, I've not yet torn in to the Hog, waiting still on Grease. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] MoBo: SaberTooth P67 B3 CPU: i7 2600K OC'd 4.434 Cooling: H100, Nine Asorted Fans GPU: EVGA Drvr344.75 GTX 780 and 580 w/physX MEM: Patriot Viper Xtrm 16GB Power: Antec HGC-900 HRD: Samsung SSD 256GB, WD 2TB wPageFile OS: Win7pro 64b Display: AcerHN274H-nVidia3D 27", Qty2 BenQ GW2750HM 27", Asus VS208 24", Qty2 Lilliput U80/c Input: G13, G110, G700s, TM WortHog, Saitek Cmbt Rudder, TM MFCDs, TrackIR5 Sound: Z906, G930w/IR5/Pwr. Pack Chair: See Album
stefaanadriansens Posted July 16, 2014 Posted July 16, 2014 broke mine today 2 years old . removed the glu and added few dips of red oil for rc cars on it , works great. :pilotfly: i7-920, 12 GB DDR3 1600, Gigabyte x58 ud3r, Gigabyte GTX 970 OC, 2x500GB SSD+1x250ssd, TrackIR 5 clip, screen 42 inches, and 21 inches, Thrustmaster Warthog throttle and stick,t500rs,th8 shifter, Saitek Pro throttle, x controller, G11 keys
Hempstead Posted July 16, 2014 Posted July 16, 2014 Did you put the broken ring back? broke mine today 2 years old . removed the glu and added few dips of red oil for rc cars on it , works great.
stefaanadriansens Posted July 16, 2014 Posted July 16, 2014 Did you put the broken ring back? NO:) :pilotfly: i7-920, 12 GB DDR3 1600, Gigabyte x58 ud3r, Gigabyte GTX 970 OC, 2x500GB SSD+1x250ssd, TrackIR 5 clip, screen 42 inches, and 21 inches, Thrustmaster Warthog throttle and stick,t500rs,th8 shifter, Saitek Pro throttle, x controller, G11 keys
Hempstead Posted July 16, 2014 Posted July 16, 2014 NO:) Oooh..... plastic rubbing against steel... bad idea.
stefaanadriansens Posted July 19, 2014 Posted July 19, 2014 Oooh..... plastic rubbing against steel... bad idea. yeah , meanwhile im searching a soft plastic ring. does sombody nows the size of the ring? i dont have the tools to measure it. :pilotfly: i7-920, 12 GB DDR3 1600, Gigabyte x58 ud3r, Gigabyte GTX 970 OC, 2x500GB SSD+1x250ssd, TrackIR 5 clip, screen 42 inches, and 21 inches, Thrustmaster Warthog throttle and stick,t500rs,th8 shifter, Saitek Pro throttle, x controller, G11 keys
Hempstead Posted July 19, 2014 Posted July 19, 2014 yeah , meanwhile im searching a soft plastic ring. does sombody nows the size of the ring? i dont have the tools to measure it. The outside diameter is 64mm, inside is 59.5mm nominal. Thickness is 1/8" (3.175mm or about 3mm). That was on page 2 of this thread.
MattM Posted July 29, 2014 Posted July 29, 2014 I can highly recommend the PTFE rings offered by Hempstead. Great fit and finish. I think the Warthog should've been shipped with that kind of ring in the first place instead of the rubber piece.
Boris Posted April 22, 2017 Posted April 22, 2017 I had the o-ring on my Warthog fail just as in first post. I first noticed it when my stick displayed very loose center play. I ended up finding an excellent replacement here: https://www.esska-tech.co.uk/esska_eng_s/Replacement_seals_for_Guillemin_couplings_GMKDRX000000_11700.html,hlid=GMKDR20P0000 The item in question is the white PTFE ring with 64mm outer diameter. It fits as if it were made for the Warthog. Nice and snug. It's thickness and rigidity allow you to just slide it in, with no adhesive required. PC Specs / Hardware: MSI z370 Gaming Plus Mainboard, Intel 8700k @ 5GHz, MSI Sea Hawk 2080 Ti @ 2100MHz, 32GB 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM Displays: Philips BDM4065UC 60Hz 4K UHD Screen, Pimax 8KX Controllers / Peripherals: VPC MongoosT-50, Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, modded MS FFB2/CH Combatstick, MFG Crosswind Pedals, Gametrix JetSeat OS: Windows 10 Home Creator's Update
Deezle Posted April 22, 2017 Posted April 22, 2017 I too had the washer (it's not really an o-ring) pop out after about 15 months of use. I'm luck enough to have some teflon sheet at work and a laser engraver. Really turns the WH into a smooth stick. Intel 9600K@4.7GHz, Asus Z390, 64GB DDR4, EVGA RTX 3070, Custom Water Cooling, 970 EVO 1TB NVMe 34" UltraWide 3440x1440 Curved Monitor, 21" Touch Screen MFD monitor, TIR5 My Pit Build, Moza AB9 FFB w/WH Grip, TMWH Throttle, MFG Crosswinds W/Combat Pedals/Damper, Custom A-10C panels, Custom Helo Collective, SimShaker with Transducer
bn880 Posted April 22, 2017 Posted April 22, 2017 I had the o-ring on my Warthog fail just as in first post. I first noticed it when my stick displayed very loose center play. I ended up finding an excellent replacement here: https://www.esska-tech.co.uk/esska_eng_s/Replacement_seals_for_Guillemin_couplings_GMKDRX000000_11700.html,hlid=GMKDR20P0000 The item in question is the white PTFE ring with 64mm outer diameter. It fits as if it were made for the Warthog. Nice and snug. It's thickness and rigidity allow you to just slide it in, with no adhesive required. Great tip, but slight warning: that ring is 5mm high, which will restrict your range of motion on the stick some especially in the corners. The hempstead one is 3.3mm and it also restricts very little already until it wears in a bit. Still, if you use the calibration tool from TM, you can nullify the range limitation , just that you will have very slightly less precise physical movement. Ideally you'd want 2.8 to 3mm high. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Boris Posted April 23, 2017 Posted April 23, 2017 Great tip, but slight warning: that ring is 5mm high, which will restrict your range of motion on the stick some especially in the corners. The hempstead one is 3.3mm and it also restricts very little already until it wears in a bit. Still, if you use the calibration tool from TM, you can nullify the range limitation , just that you will have very slightly less precise physical movement. Ideally you'd want 2.8 to 3mm high. Thanks for the tip on recalibration. The range of motion was indeed lessened by about half a + length on the windows axis test. PC Specs / Hardware: MSI z370 Gaming Plus Mainboard, Intel 8700k @ 5GHz, MSI Sea Hawk 2080 Ti @ 2100MHz, 32GB 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM Displays: Philips BDM4065UC 60Hz 4K UHD Screen, Pimax 8KX Controllers / Peripherals: VPC MongoosT-50, Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, modded MS FFB2/CH Combatstick, MFG Crosswind Pedals, Gametrix JetSeat OS: Windows 10 Home Creator's Update
Weegie Posted April 25, 2017 Posted April 25, 2017 Thanks for the tip on recalibration. The range of motion was indeed lessened by about half a + length on the windows axis test. Can you tell me what half a + length means in terms of percent or something? I don't understand what "half a + length" means I'd like to get a replacement washer, as I'm currently using the stick without one. I doubt there will be any wear to the stick, despite warnings otherwise as without the washer there will be a gap. However I think the purpose of the ring/washer is to help seal the mechanism against contamination so its better if one is installed
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