No1sonuk

NP Ooh. That would help with things like the P51 ASI that has a non-linear scale on the gauge, but a linear value output from DCS.

Ah. OK. What you need to do is make the light control a separate function that uses the brightness and enable global variables, and is called every time one of them changes. Don't put the light control in the main loop - it doesn't need to run every loop, only when one of the variables changes. Try this: int StateOutR = 0; int LEDBrightness = 255; const int LEDOutR = 6; // This sets the LEDBrightness variable based on the value of PltSignalL (0-65535) void onPltSignalLChange(unsigned int newValue) { LEDBrightness = map(newValue, 0, 65535, 0, 255); lightControl(); // Call the light control because a variable changed } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer pltSignalLBuffer(0x8734, 0xffff, 0, onPltSignalLChange); //Right Out Board 'ARM' // This sets the StateOutR variable based on the value of PltJettROutboardL (0-1) void onPltJettROutboardLChange(unsigned int newValue) { StateOutR = newValue; lightControl(); // Call the light control because a variable changed } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer pltJettROutboardLBuffer(0x872a, 0x2000, 13, onPltJettROutboardLChange); void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); pinMode(LEDOutR, OUTPUT); } void loop() { DcsBios::loop(); } void lightControl() { // This controls the light based on the variable values if (StateOutR == 1) { analogWrite (LEDOutR, LEDBrightness); } else { analogWrite (LEDOutR, 0); } }

A normal Arduino can handle a maximum of about 200mA in LEDs. That's 20 LEDs at 10mA. However, that panel is using 2 LEDs per light for the rectangular ones, so if the LED forward voltage is less than 2.5V (Red LEDs are usually somewhere around 2V but check yours), it's theoretically possible to run them in series to reduce the current load on the Arduino. Basically; 10mA through two LEDs in series is 10mA total. 10mA through each of two LEDs in parallel is 20mA total.

I asked which version of DCS-BIOS you are using, not DCS. You might have an old version and need to update it to get the corrected reference.

I don't have the AH-64, so I'm not 100% sure what you need. However, this might be what you need: // Put these with your global variables int LEDBrightness = 255; const int LEDpin = 5; // Or whatever PWM-capable pin number you want // This goes with your DCS-BIOS code lines void onPltSignalLChange(unsigned int newValue) { LEDBrightness = map(newValue, 0, 65535, 0, 255); analgWrite (LEDpin, LEDBrightness); } DcsBios::IntegerBuffer pltSignalLBuffer(0x8734, 0xffff, 0, onPltSignalLChange); BTW, to insert code like that, press the <> symbol in the controls between " and the smiley.

Those are names you can define yourself. To fix the problem, just replace the - characters with underscore ( _ ) (shift and - ). And I'll go check the most recent version of the control ref. and get it changed if it's still like this. EDIT: It's correct in the latest version - Which version of DCS-BIOS are you using?

Have you considered using the parts of the code that feed back the individual dimmer control positions and using that? Though that won't turn lights off unless the dimmer value is 0.

I've used them a couple of times. Similar delivery times to the UK. The only problem I've had is when I asked them to make two different SMT boards named "Board A" and "Board B". They made Board B the wrong way round (tracks on the bottom) because they assumed the "B" meant it was the bottom layer, not the top layer.

Yes. I've done it. I used SS49E linear hall effect sensors. Direct connection: V+ to 5V, V- to GND, and Output to the Bodnar input. Basically, any linear Hall sensor with a supply range that allows 5V should work.

This: https://wiki.st.com/stm32mcu/wiki/Getting_started_with_ADC Says: Technology 12-bit successive approximation Conversion time 188 nS, 5.33 Msamples/s (when fADC_CLK = 80 MHz) That's better than the standard 10-bit ADCs of Arduinos, and on-par with Leo Bodnar analogue boards.

More likely an "opal" plastic. i.e. one that looks white, but is translucent.

Doesn't the STM32 have ADCs?

Maybe Tacview does what you want? https://www.tacview.net/product/en/ It's free to try, and some features will continue to work after the initial trial period.

Why not just use a Leo Bodnar BU0836A? It has eight 12-bit analogue channels and up to 32+4 digital button inputs. It requires no programming (unless you want to change its name or use the rotary encoder functions), and plugs straight into a USB port.

Just noticed there's no "F4" on the DCS-BIOS compatability list. It'll have to be added after release for the Uno/DCS-BIOS combination to work for it. The Pro-micro operating as a game controller would work straight away, though.

Just to make sure, you need to start with this version of DCS-BIOS, _NOT_ the "Hub" version: https://github.com/DCS-Skunkworks And this is a decent start-up video:

The first thing to think about is that the Uno and Mega can't work like game controllers over USB (also called HID or Human Interface Devices) without reprogramming the base code of the USB interface device - IF the Arduino you have has a reprogrammable interface device. If you're new to coding, I'd suggest NOT doing that. You CAN use those devices with DCS-BIOS, though. DCS-BIOS is an interface system for Arduinos and ESP32s to interface with DCS. It's aircraft-specific, though, and relies on the aircraft being included and updated by the developers (who are not employed by ED). That's generally a few days behind DCS updates. Oh, and no - you can't bolt 2 Arduinos together with a single USB out. But with a USB hub, you can use multiple Arduinos. For what you want, you might be able to use a Leo Bodnar BU0836X. This has 32 digital inputs (encoders use 2 each) and 8 analogue inputs (pots, etc.). It'll show up as a game controller in Windows and DCS with no coding, other than using the Bodnar encoder configuration program. If you still want to go the Arduino route without DCS-BIOS, a Leonardo or Pro Micro have the correct USB interface devices for use as a HID. The Leonardo is usually compatible with Uno form factor shields, and the Pro Micro is similar to a Nano, but not the same size. Firstly, you need to determine exactly how many inputs you need of each type: Encoder = 2 digital inputs each (3 including the push) Pot = 1 analogue input each Switch = 1 digital input per on position Once you have that list, you can decide which device(s) to use, and how. Hope that helps for a start. EDIT: Also, I just looked at Circuit.io - It doesn't do things the way I would. For example, it uses "active-high" switches, which need external pull-down resistors. The Arduinos have built-in pull-up resistors for "active-low" switches...

Could that be a camera perspective problem? If you have the panel and a flat bed scanner, you can get a flat image with no perspective problems.

Sorry I've just seen this - you've posted it in the wrong forum. It should be in the main Home Cockpits section, not the 3D printing sub-forum. As for the question: If one 3-position switch works, there must be something wrong other than the code. Which version of DCS-BIOS are you running?

Which Bodnar board?

You should start a fresh post in the forum rather than post for help in a "Working code" thread...

Thanks, But I should note the addresses you have in these sketches don't work in my up-to-date Open Beta / Flightpanels DCS-BIOS install. They all need 0x0010 to be added to them. A named address file was added to DCS-BIOS a several months ago to make updates easier.

That's easy. Duplicate the top switch and resistor. Connect the new switch to the input of U2b instead of the output from U2a.

This is what I mean about the hardware if/then: U1 and U3 are quad 2-input AND gates (74xx08). Power pins not shown. U2 is a hex inverter (74xx04 or 74xx14). Power pins not shown. Q1-8 are whatever will switch the Bodnar board inputs from a 5V active-high logic level. That may require additional circuitry. Theoretically, with the up/down switch open, the 4 position switches should fire the outputs only on U1, and with up/down closed, they should only fire the U3 outputs. There's nothing stopping more than one output firing if more than one input switch is closed.

You could use relays to change over between top and bottom with the top/bottom switch controlling the relay coils. MOSFET switching might work. It'd be easier with a couple of logic chips as well, to do the "if/then" job in hardware.