Ala13_ManOWar

Yeah, no worries, didn't check your message count, I guess you should be relatively new around here . Didn't mean you "insulted", like directly insulting, but since devs (any of them, ED itself and third parties) are always bogged down to their eyebrows with new and old stuff improvement/polishing you might understand what I meant, saying "they do nothing" is kind of insulting to my understanding (not you, no). And you just happened to start a thread with close enough words the day a huge patch is coming to DCS, including not few changes to the module you were asking. You had the bad luck to that serendipity, but other way more battered users around here often do what you happened to do, including way worst words… That's why it was funny in the first place to those of us knowing the thing, and even more happening a couple hours before the patch comes live but we already knew the patch was coming by the time you wrote . Sorry for that if you thought any other thing, no bad intended .

Mudhen news, yeah .

I believe some people do it on purpose, they might think insulting devs all the time is the way to go and get updates or something like that… Nice for an abandoned module…

Was being ironic mate, not funny at all but that's the daily struggle here.

The funny thing is you're describing most complain posts on ED forums .

A notch in nose trim down helps you preventing to get airborne before you want it to happen, but will still go airborne quite easy, don't worry about that. When you're more confident of course you can take off without taking care of that but now it's probably causing you some problems. Manual says also 5-6º right rudder trim IIRC, but pilots IRL say it's not for helping torque in take off run (you still have to use rudder anyway, trim doesn't help you with that) but once airborne and clean (flaps and gear up) with those 5-6º rudder trim will get your ball already mostly centred (no pun intended ) so you don't need to retrim that much while airborne and thinking-managing other stuff at the same time. In game people say 3º is better for aeroplane control. I usually forget to trim at all when I take off in P-51, but still it's fine once you know the bird. Anyhow, what I mean is, yes, can be helpful but trim is not exactly your acutest problem while taking of, no. With regards to stick, yes you should leave it slowly but constantly and before reaching 100mph indicated your stick must be already centred if you don't want to lift off before intended. That's why one notch nose down trim is helpful there, still she'll lift off without problem, one notch won't prevent you from going airborne. But P-51 isn't the worst in that, other warbirds in DCS want not only back stick pressure but perhaps left stick either (and we aren't talking crosswind here… ), and it must either be left to neutral slowly but that's while in take off run so you also don't stop pedalling to keep torque controlled and watch your instruments, anemometer, tachometer, manifold pressure but you have to keep your eyes outside at the same time… That's why it's actually pretty straightforward but way quicker than it looks like, you're so bogged down at that moment to pay attention to so many details it goes without noticing and you're already either airborne or a ball of fire. But believe me, it's doable, you learn even though at first looks like you don't, and in the end you'll master it before you know it.

Gorgeous skin of yours, love it . By the way An actual example of the red dope in a Mosquito, just for your tranquillity . Despite the looks of it, it's a WWII colour picture BTW.

Perhaps didn't explain myself well enough, sorry for that . It's not only it's not a model kit, the plastic kind and all, the thing is there's already somewhere in this very same Chit-chat subforum a thread with that kind of die cast stuff but this is the plastic model kits thread . My fault was assuming you knew that when I answered your post . P.S.: yeah, looks like some metal scratch built B-17, nice model indeed, though also it might well be a large 1/32 scale plastic model kit since there are also those in the market, not my kind of model kits the ones you could live in, but still plastic model kits. Anyhow, both of them are modelling indeed

That'd requiere to have paid in the hundreds or even thousands $ ahead of time while you have absolutely nothing or only the 3D model in the Encyclopaedia to be watched for years to come while still spending even more money in skins just in case it's released any day soon, and I don't know about you but I've already paid 0 for the moment .

Yes, but you're suppose to respond to the input and what you're seeing, it's not like one can put some right pedal and just let it there the whole time, that's only for others so called "simulators". Here torque and all it's friends are modelled the way they should be, so you must interact to what you "see" going on, the problem is the wait until visual clues happens and usually by then it's late, that's why one's suppose to fly by the seat of your pants IRL but here there's no such a physical clue, there's no feeling. The better way I've found, if you can't find those tiny subtle visual clues, is to pedal on the rudders left-right constantly (it's also a tail wheel technique IRL BTW). It might seem pointless to pedal like you're biking but it makes the trick because in the left-right constant input you correct unconsciously the path and in the end take off and land in a quite controlled way without even knowing. If you manage to learn like that later on you won't need to constantly pedal left-right all the time once you've learned what to expect in each of the take off steps so you'll do it by heart without much thinking. Till then the constant "pedalling" is a good way to learn how to tackle tail draggers. About the stick position, the problem is when you read the description it looks pretty straightforward, but once you're there it all happens way faster than it looks like. In the P-51 the tail wheel lock happens until stick is right in the centre, to unlock you have to push forward that centre (it's the exact opposite in Fw190 family), so even though it's fine and helpful to hold the stick backwards in the take off run you have to let it go before she goes airborne, you don't want to have any pitch up input at the moment she lifts off by herself because there's no speed at that exact moment and you'll stall. But it all happens quite fast so it's a progressive let go but faster than one thinks. If it goes left in that moment that probably means you're making throttle changes during the take off run. It's better to get to whatever setting you're confortable with (without heavy loads it's fine just 3000rpm 50", for instance) and let it there, if there're changes then bad things happens. Also, take care to use one notch nose down trim, it'll help you not getting airborne ahead of the right time.

You can try using curves, or better chopping a bit the saturation on the extreme of the response line. It's quite visual once you enter the setting.

Well, actually, yes it is too much to ask . It happens all the time, people ask (I want to think genuinely and humbly ask… ) why this or that happened. Now think about it a second time. What do you care they're looking for an impossible to squeeze out of place coma or the latest Vulkan iteration changed whatever they have to change all over the already done work, or whatever it is? Any of that tells you nothing about when it's going to be released or the result you're going to see in game when it's released, which, in the end, is what you really are asking for mate. We all, not you alone, are awaiting eagerly for the next development enhancements and all. Don't worry, the day it's released you'll notice like everyone else. Just be patient mate, we all have to be, believe me, you aren't alone in that .

Read the title in this topic, that's not the "plastic kind", that's not a model kit you made mate, you just bought a die cast which is nice for you if you like those, but compared to plastic model kits made by oneself those are pretty bad jokes.

Actually, you pretty much summed up the history of PC gaming in one line, yeah. Is it really surprising for you?

Yeah, he kind of gives it for granted, and I wish it were finally, but not sure if it's really already coming or what.

And you can try reading, OP said FSSB, a force sensing device, not FFB. You were the first and only one talking about FFB here mate… just saying P.S. Either didn't know Saitek Rhino was an FFB device, weird how an FFB profile doesn't work there, right?

No matter you hadn't "trouble" before, to be honest a force sensing joystick isn't the best suited hardware for any Warbird in DCS. I've almost always (years ago, well before mossie, there were changes on how warbirds in DCS behave controls wise) used curves and if something I have made my long stick (Warthog) even longer, but still you need curves most of the time, and it really makes sense bearing in mind usual British setups. Using that you're really good to go in any warbird, but I'm not really sure a force sensing joystick gives you any of that required sensitivity in deep control movements. Using a long stick any warbird is a pleasure to fly, that I can tell you unambiguously, and Mosquito is the same despite de two engines setting which is tricky by nature, and I believe very well depicted in DCS unlike… well, unlike anything else because Mosquito is a first time ever and for the moment a unique masterpiece in simulation software development for home use. If I understood you right, you say you have also available other hardware (like warthog). Please, try those, and if you're able (you can buy it already done, but it's really simple and cheap to do it by yourself) try a long stick setting (20cm is fine, I'm using 25 right now and it's even better but you need a stiffer spring). With a long stick it's really pleasant to fly this or any other warbird without encountering those problems you mention, maybe others, but not those problems with oversensitiveness and uncontrollability you find.

Your install path, then DCS World\Mods\aircraft\I-16\Doc There it should be. And like that, every other module, usually.

In fact, you don't need a battery nor usually any ground power at all to run the engine, power is provided by magnetos and those are independent mechanical devices for the same reason, you just need gas on the tank to run the plane, nothing more. And specially on 109 were fly wheel is ran by ground crew cranking up a shaft by hand. A plane is not a car. You need power supply only in planes which run electric starter engines without the hand cranking possibility. So yes, something's going on there.

Do any of you recall that interview with a former Finish MiG-21 pilot on YT? He clearly stated performance was overall the same, more thrust but more weight also, hence about the same after all, but he also stated he preferred the F-13 all the way over the Bis. That has to mean something coming from someone who flew them both mates .

Didn't even know that was a thing . I have only 1 day, I guess I'll have to wait to trade for my P-51 .

And textures, they were upgraded IIRC, both external and internal in the cockpit and systems related to new DM. Yeah, maybe some older users remember that, but most people tend to forget those even if those happened just last year .

Is it a bug? I believe during the war those came in flight from Europe and US itself by air refueling, never landed or took off directly in the place. Maybe it's for a reason.

It can definitely be enhanced, but you're all forgetting she had a revamp a couple of years ago when D-20 model came to be. It's not "the same old model we got in 2012" mates.

Funny how an "abandoned module" gets updates almost every patch. One needs to read changelogs to notice, though .