P1KW

Lock the slide (if I understand correctly) and use the differential brakes is an option, but has the disadvantage that the toe brakes can be operated simultaneously, but the rudder pedals in a helicopter balance pedal on the pedal opposite. You would have to modify the behavior of the two main axes to turn into one. I think my solution is the most simple and effective, but I appreciate your comment. :smilewink: Greetings! Edit: Add a small video.

Well, I add a photo (sorry, low quality) with a practical example in the G940 pedals. Although it can be applied to the pedals from Saitek. I have not used bearing or similar. The friction is not relevant. The angle of the platform is very important, depends on the position of his leg in his cockpit, but extended almost vertically, and with more leg flexed greater angle of inclination on the platform. The assembly is very simple, especially if you already have made ​​the platforms, as was my case. The control is quite different, much more precise. Now I can make a coordinated turn with stability at the Ka-50, but I must start learning from the beginning. Greetings!

If you drive your car to 120 km / h, (please do not try it) and try to brake smoothly, using the leg, instead of the foot, you will find it impossible to get a smooth braking. This is the reason why many helicopter pilots felt uncomfortable with the typical fixed-wing rudder pedals. We need the precision that gives the foot and at the same time be able bring the pedal to the extreme with sufficient agility. For that reason real helicopters rudder pedals are more together, with less travel, and actuated by the foot, not leg. Based on an idea of ​​Javisim, Helibelula Patrol, I thought of the following mod for rudder pedals typical in simulation, Saitek, Logitech and CH. It has the drawback of using 3 hinges or joints and 1 bar, also lose the possibility of using the conventional way for aircraft. This design is much easier, and also maintains the option to use in fixed wing simply turning the pedals. The inconvenience is the friction between the actuator and the end of the pedal, although the tests work very well. And this is what I mean perfect, add bearings, or some rollers on the top of the pedal to eliminate friction. It's more complicated but is the goal. I hope soon to be putting practical examples with Saitek rudder and the G940 rudder pedals. :thumbup: Greetings!!!

Hey. Excuse my poor English, and poor video quality. It is an ATI 6990 with 5 monitors in Eyefinity configuration. Is running in windowed mode, the current driver version has lost performance in crossfire mode and DCS. In other simulators are indifferent window or full screen. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=78759 Greetings.

Hi, :smilewink: Greetings!

I think it is a persistent problem in 1.2 The missions created with the v1.2 have the same code that show up. I understand that it is reasonable to limit aid to the Mustang and CA, in MP missions. But the method of trimmer is not an "aid" as such, simply a choice of each pilot and its hardware. Greetings!

In SP the mission using your "options.lua" but MP use "options.lua" of the author of the mission. The only solution for now is that the author edit the mission open with Winrar and change the "options.lua" containing the file (mission.miz). But it is a bad solution, since not everyone used the same set of trimmer. Another solution would be to delete that line. But I have not tried. This is the part of "options.lua" affected; ["plugins"] = { ["Ka-50"] = { ["altTrimmingMethod"] = false, }, -- end of ["Ka-50"] ["P-51D"] = { ["assistance"] = 0, ["autoRudder"] = false, }, -- end of ["P-51D"] ["CA"] = { ["ground_aim_helper"] = true, ["ground_target_info"] = true, ["ground_platform_shake"] = true, ["ground_show_cursor"] = true, }, -- end of ["CA"] }, -- end of ["plugins"] Greetings!

Fantastic work, Peter, always inspires me. I am enclosing a picture of my prototype wheels for trimmer. The arrangement is not like the original at the Mustang, but is more intuitive. In addition, the three sides without a wheel, are valid as a base or anchor point, giving versatility. Excuse the poor quality of the image. Greetings!

Sorry for the joke. I understand that Coretex Designs is the pseudonym of a known developer. I imagine he has a product on the market that does not hurt. And if I keep imagining, I get VRS. Although he has been denied, but dreaming is free. Greetings!

Do you itch, curiosity? Do you stings, impatience? Try this: http://www.coretexproducts.com/ Greetings! :megalol: ...sorry :P Please Coretex, give us a little introduction. :thumbup:

In BS1 trims well. In BS2 the trimmer does not work well. In BS2 in DCSW returns to work well. The FM is different in all three. In BS1 the helicopter has more inertia than DCSW: BS2. In BS2 the pitch axis is more nervous. DCSW: BS2 is more rigid, more artificial in my opinion, although I have never flown a Ka-50. Greetings!

Hey. It can be done. Need a switch, ON-ON-ON, but can also be done with an ON-OFF-ON. You also need the controller to send a key command in the connection and another disconnection. We assign a key to the command, such as "Z". For an ON-ON-ON: -In the up position of the switch: Connect >>> "Z" Disconnect >> nothing -In the middle position: Connect >> "Z" Disconnect >> "Z" -In the position down: Connect >> nothing Disconnect >> "Z" Moving down the switch, the controller sends: Z> Z In the simulator: up> middle. In the simulator: middle> down. Moving it up, the controller sends: ZZ> ZZ. In the simulator: down> (up)> middle. In the simulator: middle> (down)> up And the switch in the simulator is working properly. Even doing "double movement" It's sloppy, but fully functional. The controller I used is this: http://www.u-hid.com/home/overview_board.php Greetings.

And with 4 brackets or angles? So it is very stable. Greetings

The guy can not work in Kamov. It is impossible, I'd be asking for a video of the Ka-52. :D Greetings. Nice initiative.

Possibly, the list of candidates for a hypothetical expansion, this here: http://fighter-collection.com/pages.php :book: Greetings.

for an accurate position of the trimmer, select * 20-50% sensitivity in the XY axes. Below 50%, the trimmer is less accurate. Above 50% the Joy is too sensitive. collective axis, sensitivity * 50%. (edit) rudder pedals, sensitivity * from 50% to 0%. better close to 0%. (*) sensitivity in the Logitech software Do not change the curves in BS. At Logitech software, FFB Force, 50-75. Do not fight a hard joy. In BS, FF Tune, not swap axis, and Trimmer Force value to 100. Greetings.

Make sure you have selected a sensitivity of 30-70% in the Logitech software, on the axes X, Y. Ideally 50%. Do not touch the curves in DCS. With a high sensitivity, the point of trimming is more accurate but harder to control the helicopter. Greetings.

Before, my FFB setting was 50-75%. Now it is 60-80%. It is enough FFB. In BS improvement has been dramatic. Like in CoD and FSX. Obviously want precision in the control. But what is most impressive is the improvement in immersion. In BS I have better control, but as a pilot, I'm the same. :smilewink: Have you ever shot down a tanker? hmm ....:D Greetings.

Negative FlankerOne. It occurs in all WP. Greetings. If someone confirms that the names in those fields, is appreciated.

Desde que se anuncio solo ronda una cuestion en mi cabeza... ¿Te gusta volar? :pilotfly: :D La leche, un Mustang con el nivel de DCS. Saludos.

Thank you! There seems to be something interesting for the G940. Greetings.

<<<Updated on April-2014>>> If you are interested in extending their G940 tube, read this first, non-destructive and easy option; G940. Easy way to extend stick. There are more methods. Look for more information. Some people have done with other methods. I also look for links. The method described in this thread is obsolete. There are better ways to do this, using aluminum tube. In this link I have intention to document improvement; G940 Helicopter ForceTrim MOD v2.0 In this thread (very extensive) for more information, but in Spanish. It is a non-active forum. There can be hosted temporarily; G940 Cyclic, Collective & Anti-Torque Pedals. EDIT: The process of image 4 is UNNECESSARY. You can use aluminum tube 16 mm. To attach the tube and the base, can be used aluminum tube of 19 mm and 1.5 mm wall. I can set with two bolts. The stick fits perfectly into the aluminum tube 16 mm, just needs a through bolt to secure. Like this: Hi. Excuse my bad English. It all started here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=84518 The end result, my new G940 XL: Is not an easy and fast work. Ok? Need some tools. (drill with 10 mm, dremel, lime, strong glue, solder, tin, screwdriver, etc.) And some material. (the most important, hollow tube 10 mm in diameter, I used a hanger bar curtains, thin wire, and a washing machine drain pipe) Remove the side cover of joy (be careful with the spring of the trigger) and a small pair of pliers remove the connector cable coming from the base of joy. Spread the joy of the base and remove the lid covering the guard-powder. Remove both. Remove the wire inside the tube. You should see something like this: The interior of the tube has a diameter of about 10 mm. But is not constant, the top is slightly wider. Prepare the operating room, protect the G940: I have made ​​the cut with a Dremel and a disc very, very soft. You should work with patience and slow speed. This is the result: EDIT: The process of next image is UNNECESSARY. You can use aluminum tube 16 mm. To attach the tube and the base, can be used aluminum tube of 19 mm and 1.5 mm wall or 18 mm and 1 mm wall(19-3=16mm or 18-2=16mm). I can set with two bolts. The stick fits perfectly into the aluminum tube 16 mm, just needs a through bolt to secure. Like this: My tube hanging curtains, fits perfectly into the top, but not at the bottom. To correct this I used a 10 mm bore, and a lime round. As before, should work with patience and slow speed. Now let's make the recess to pass the cable. Look at the picture. I used the Dremel with a disc, for working metal. Soften the cut with lime: The cable and metal will be in motion. To protect the cable I added a little pint-nails in the area of the cut: Choose carefully the LENGTH of the tube. You will need to be sure what you want. Well. Now is the time to extend the cable coming from the base. You only have 3 wires, should be a simple operation. Use cable of three colors, and remember, which is which. Remember to leave enough wire at the top connector. Still not be welded: My tube hanging curtains, it snugly into the tube of joy, to fix it I used a glue compound. A small amount is enough. The outer tube is a washing machine drain, you can find something similar. It only remains to weld the top connector and mount the joy. Remember. Work step by step. Provide the following steps every time. Enjoy your new "G940 XL" Greetings.

Window mode is a half, but valid, solution for 5970 or 6990 users. :megalol: Greetings

Well. It would be interesting pedals with FFB. I'm planning to scrap a wheel of TM. At the moment I contain my limited tools and knowledge. Greetings.

Of course. I am looking tube of 15.7 mm and a good adhesive. Greetings. edit: Here is a hard extension: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1386793#post1386793