Le0kong

I should be sleeping already so i just quick read you post. But for now... When you reinstalled, did you erase the DCS folder? Second, don't re-use the settings files from older betas, they are not completely compatible, if thats what you trying to do. You will need to remap all controls.

Thanks for the update. Yay, MLAA on the 5xxx, i no longer need to mess with the registry. Now if only they will do performance increases in games i actually play. :D

Here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=63912 And some others scattered in other topics.

I mean playing the PC version of these games, all these "games for windows live" have presets to use on the 360 controller.

I will only recommend getting a 360 controller to play DCS if you plan on using it to play other games like GTA,Resident Evil 5,DeadSpace, etc... If you going to use mostly for sims then it's probably better to look for one of these stick with a throttle on the base. There lots of recommendation for these on another topic, they are around the same $40-50 price. I did play for a few months on a 360 in both BS and A-10. The biggest problem on BS is using the collective through buttons, and you will need to use at least two buttons(i used the L&R buttons) as modifiers to multiply the number of buttons available. On the A-10C is good enough to learn and play light missions. I had DMS,TMS,CMS,China,MIC,AP,POV,dual trigger, analog slew... all available on the controller through combination of modifiers. I wish a had kept some BS tracks for you to see how it played. Just make sure you get a original one, there some copies that look just like the original, but the pots are much less sensible.

Good to hear you liked it. Make sure to attach the stick to something rock solid, it is not that it is bad when you use it on top of a table but it becomes something else when you can crank the force settings to high and apply lots of force with no fear of it moving. About using the mouse mini-stick for the TGP you can try this workaround (shameless plug :D). Although i recommend waiting for the next A-10 beta because on the current build the TGP slew is getting stuck when used as a analog axis. For now i'm using the midle hat on the back of the throttle for slew and the mini-stick as the MIC hat.

You opened 14 topics in the last three days, 9 about building a new PC, slow down mate. One topic about the computer makes it easier to get everyone opinion and help.

While they don't reply you can try this. Look at your email history, you probably received a email from "webmaster@digitalcombatsimulator.com" that contains the DCS A-10C serial to activate.

Since there's "motion blur" on the video i guess it is a track recorded at half-speed. So the performance is going to be better then on real time. Don't kick your computers yet. :P

I'm on a Athlon II X2 240 2.8@3.36 and a ATI 5770 clocked from 850/1200 to 920/1315. On light missions(Instant Action/Training) run between 20-40 fps, on the attached settings(except the resolution, i use on 1920x1080). Since a 5770 is sort of equivalent to a 4850, you may need to lower some of the settings, but is going to play ok. Even better after the betas.

I don't recommend the 5670, i'm on a 5770 and i consider it to be the minimum card to get to play on medium-to-high settings on A-10C, but that as a card worth to get a year ago. If you are on a tight budget and your main focus is on DCS, then it may be better to get a cheaper 4 core CPU and get a better video card.

I always leave it on, it help me know how much pressure i'm using when pitching up, and as StrongHarm said helps with immersion. It may wobble a bit too much to be real but still better then a rock hard neck, even with head tracking.

Is not that Lock-on in the image you attached? :huh: ...Radar scan limit, Lock target...

From the last couple of change logs it looks like there is not going to be more performance improvements for the 5xxx series. :(

"Sensors", from the drop down menu.

Good Heavens! Someone get this man a HOTAS! :helpsmilie: Or at least some joystick with analog controls. Before the X65F i was playing with a XBOX 360 Controller, although it lack in number of hats it still much better then the keyboard only.

Now you need to find if the sensor is really completely dead. -First try unscrewing the sensor card from the base, then get one of the magnets(the circular silver-like metal attached to the plastic, picture-1) and move it around the sensor while the stick is plugged on the PC and see if there any movement at all. -Second, with the sensor unplugged from stick you need to test if current can pass correctly from the sensor legs to the connector on the other end of the cable. Do it for the three wires. Ideally you will use a multimeter for that. If there too much resistance then it could be just a bad solder. If you get no response on the first test and the second went ok for the three wires, then i will say the sensor is probably dead. I don't know any other tests that can be one on a hall sensor itself.

It wont hurt if one of you posted the log files from the temp folder, some of the logs show if there a error on loading the game resources. Other information like in-game settings, GPU drivers settings wont hurt either. Anything more then "me too" can be more helpful. Not sure if that is the reason not tester/dev posted on this topic. I never seen it, on a ATI here, so i can't help.

That's your third topic on the same issue, there no need for that, it will only make it harder for people to help. I will give you some ideas for you to try in case noone else with more experince with this model appears, but with a disclaimer that i don't own a X52 and never fixed one( Just a X65F that come broke on arrival too). First i will try swapping the connector for the X and Y axis to identify if what is broken is the physical sensor or if is something in the board. Judging from pictures i found on this site, looks like they are the two 3-wire connector in the upper-right corner of this picture, i can't be sure from the picture so before changing them look to make sure they really are identical. After swapping them, now test on the ControlPanel and see if now when you move the stick X axis you get a Y axis answer on the screen and no response on the stick Y axis. This could mean a problem further down the board, but mean the sensor is ok. BUT if you move the stick X axis and don't get any response and now the stick Y axis moves the X axis on the CP then the sensor/cable itself got something wrong. It won't fix anything but at least you can narrow down where is the problem.

Looks quite similar to the one in the ducumentation topic, JP 3-09.3: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=60293 But yours is from 1995, only A-10A there. And it looks like there's no JTAC back then, i found no mention of the Type 1, 2 & 3. :huh:

I don't know what is the situation on the US on these pre-built computers. And i have no idea if the price is right. But i prefer to run away from these like hell if the use is going to be gaming. There's no mention of what motherboard they put on that, the cpu is a quad-core with no L3, the hard-drive(who know if is not one 5200RPM, is going to stutter like hell on something like DCS). About the video card on this one i'm not familiar but if is slower then a HD5770 it needs to be REALLY cheap to be worth.

Holy S**t! :surprise: I was gonna complain this is a topic for screenshots not real pictures! And just to not be too off-topic...this one looks like it is from another game...:music_whistling: from the same time: NOTE: These are old, from Beta 2.

For some reason i can't edit my original post so a will put the updated files on this post for now. The last regfix(2.1) that i uploaded the dual throttle fix don't remove any axis, but it has a side effect of turning one of the mini stick axis into a real axis, this is not a problem as long as you don't assing it to anything on the options, doing that it won't interfere with the mouse or bands you may have created on the Profile Editor. Just remember to reassign all axis in the options since some of them may became swapped. Yes. (Is not really a uninstaller, it just put the register values back to the originals from the drivers) Just make sure you are using the Saitek drivers(either from the CD or from their website) and not the default one from windows. For the fix there nothing to backup really, if things go wrong you may need to reinstall the drivers. I haven't been able to test it on a x64 windows yet. Can you tell me what Windows version are you using (32 or 64 bits) and what fix did you used?X65F_REGFIX_V2.1.zip

What about this box on the right side of the seat? And this box on the top left side of the seat, it is only visible on the external model: PS: I just noticed the stick on the external model is from the A-10A

Because after decades of different encodings and code pages being used on many different systems created a mess, so in every simple text file today theres a whole of black magic going on. And Notepad is made just good enough to work most of the time, and don't do much to work to translate well between encoding accurately. Just as you experience, it work, most of the time, but when it breaks a file from a different editor it its a pain the a**.