doveman

Would these be good magnets to use? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-of-1-4-Cube-Magnets-NdFeB-Neodymium-/380197062171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item588582c61b

You're welcome. Just to clarify in case it wasn't clear, I meant remap the open radio command in DCS, rather than editing the VAC profile. If DCS sees your RAlt key as OEM101, then it should receive that when VAC sends RAlt as well.

Check exactly which keys VAC is set to send for one of the phrases, then try pressing those keys in sim to check the expected behaviour results. It may be that the key the profile sends to open the radio is not the same the sim expects. The default key is RAlt+/ but the sim sees my English keyboard RAlt as something like OEM101, so you might need to remap all the commands that use RAlt so they look like OEM101+/ for example.

It would be great to have a utility that automatically loads and re-saves all the missions after each update, to avoid these problems.

Great info here. I'm restoring a TM F-16 FLCS stick. I'm using a Teensy 3.1 and have got all the buttons working but the pots are very jittery. I was planning on replacing them with hall sensors anyway. These might be a better choice for the sensor http://uk.farnell.com/honeywell-s-c/ss495a1/sensor-hall-effect-6-operate-points/dp/1470592 as they're more sensitive http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2318962&postcount=17 Farnell charge an extra £4 for orders under £20 though. These are even more sensitive but are US stock so too expensive for me in the UK. http://uk.farnell.com/allegro-microsystems/a1324lua-t/ic-sensor-hall-effect--nw/dp/2336862?ost=A1324LUA-T&categoryId=700000004372 RS have them but there's a £5 charge for orders under £20. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensor-ics/7532002/ I can get the SS495A1 on e-bay from China totalling £2.98 for two with no other charges, so I guess I'll do that as I'm not in a big hurry! The magnets seem quite expensive or only come in large quantities on e-bay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.X1%2F4%22+rare+earth+magne.TRS0&_nkw=1%2F4%22+rare+earth+magnet&_sacat=0 Are the cheaper disc magnets from Hong Kong, about £2.60 for 200pcs, any good? I obviously don't want 200, so if I can spend that much or a bit more on a smaller quantity of something that's better or more suitable, I'd rather do that. I can tap the USB 5v supply from the Teensy, so hopefully that will be sufficient as I don't really want to have to rig up a separate supply just for the sensors.

Ah I see, thanks.

Unlikely, as I must have saved my profiles on several occasions after tweaking them but still the camera settings were reset next time I used it. I doubt FT can actually control those settings itself, in which case they wouldn't be part of it's saved profiles. It doesn't matter as long as CLEye saves them though, as it's not like we need different cam settings per game and hopefully I can find a sweet spot that doesn't need adjusting depending on time of day/ambient light. I've got a black out blind on my window now anyway, so I can just close that if too much sun is getting in and ruining my fun [emoji1]

Ah, guess that's where I was going wrong as I was bringing up the camera settings from somewhere in FTNoIR. It's probably the same dialogue but perhaps it only saves the settings if opened from CLEye. Thanks for the tip guys, fingers crossed I'll get it working better this time around. I expect I'll use opentrack with my LED clip, I only stuck with FTNoIR as OT doesn't support my edtracker-like board.

I don't know why but in my experience they reset to 0 every time I closed FTNoIR, so I had to adjust them all the time. Once you know where they need to be set it's not that hard, just tedious and not something I could expect my Dad to do each time he wanted to fly, hence why I was hoping my edtracker-like gizmo would work.

I actually made something like Edttracker that uses Bluetooth and a Duracell USB rechargeable battery, so it's totally wireless. I bought a spare battery so I could swap them out and not have to resort to using a cable but I think you can use them in pass-through whilst they're charging as well. Unfortunately the FTNOIR plugin for it is very buggy and it stops producing output at random, even though it's still recognising the input and also crashes a lot. There's no plugin for Opentracker yet and no-one appears to be working on it, so I've had to give up on that idea and go back to IR LEDs. It was only 3DOF anyway, which wouldn't satisfy a lot of people but I didn't mind that and it was nice not having to worry about other light sources, the cam losing track of the LEDs and having to set my PS3 Eye's contrast & brightness correctly each time I started.

I see this line at the end of the export.lua: --dofile( "C:\Users\Micky_w7\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Scripts\exportTWS.lua ") I guess it won't do anything bad to leave it there but we might as well delete it?

@Mano, if you haven't got a template or don't want to share it, could you give the dimensions of your clip. The one I built was smaller and looked something like this: but that didn't work great for me and I was advised to make a bigger one. I need some actual dimensions before I can start though, so it would be great to have them for your clip.

I can't even download the app, says not available in my region.

Wouldn't it be fairly easy to replace the motors if they burn out, which seems the most likely point of failure?

I tried this once myself with similar results. I think it's something to do with the pad stick being smaller or more sensitive and thus easier to make constant small corrections around the centre, with less travel needed than with a bigger stick. Overall I didn't find it suitable (I think the lack of a slider to easily and quickly make collective adjustments was one reason) but it did make me wish it was as easy to balance helos with my desktop sticks. I wonder if a loose stick, like the FFB2 without the motors engaged, would give similar results as from what little helo flight I've seen on TV it looks like their sticks have much less resistance than consumer gaming units and maybe that resistance makes it hard for us to make the small corrections needed?

Hey Mano, nice looking clip you've made there. You wouldn't have a template for that clip handy that you could share would you? That would make it a lot easier for me to make one, as I suck at drawing even with CAD programs. I made a prototype clip out of cardboard a while ago but that soon broke and I've been trying to use a gyro/compass/magnetometer since but it's very unreliable and FTNoIR suddenly stops producing any output, even though it's still tracking the input. I guess it's more the headracker driver used in FTNoIR more than the hardware that's the problem but I can't fix that myself.

I got the HAF XB Evo and can highly recommended it. It's much easier to work in than a tower as once you take the lid off you're looking straight down at the motherboard, with the PSU and drives tucked out of the way in the lower chamber. http://www.coolermaster.com/case/lan-box/haf-xb-evo/

Awesome work Capt Zeen. Much appreciated.

The proper Russian way is apparently frequent short clicks but even with my FFB stick I find the other way is the only usable method in DCS.

I have to set the resolution in DCS to 3840x1200 (for my two monitors in a side-by-side config) to be able to export things like the ABRIS to the secondary monitor, to be displayed underneath the Helios overlay. Then my monitorsetup lua is something like this (I'm not sure if this was the one I was using last time I tried, so it might not be exactly right): _ = function(p) return p; end; name = _('Zeen'); Description = 'KA50 Dual Horizontal' Viewports = { Center = { x = 0; y = 0; width = 1920; height = 1200; viewDx = 0; viewDy = 0; aspect = 1.6; } } ED_KA50_Shkval = { x = 1927; y = 7; width = 809; height = 650; } ED_KA50_ABRIS = { x = 3251; y = -1; width = 587; height = 838; } ED_KA50_PVI = { x = 1956; y = 678; width = 212; height = 107; } ED_KA50_Ekran = { x = 3080; y = 955; width = 162; height = 116; } ED_KA50_UV26 = { x = 2751; y = 533; width = 307; height = 84; } GUI = { x = 0; y = 0; width = 1920; height = 1200; } UIMainView = GUI and the map is spread across both monitors, despite what UIMainView is set to. So hopefully DCS 2 will let us export things to an additional monitor without having to extend the main resolution to cover that monitor, which waste resources.

I was very disappointed when I got my second screen to use with Helios to find that the map was no longer usable and decided to stop flying until DCS 2. I'm hoping that fixes the map issue with multi monitors and generally makes DCS more multi monitor friendly, as a lot of simmers use such setups.

Finally got the buttons working! I found this sketch which was adapted from the original F-16 sketch and added the analogue axis https://github.com/gerryk/USBJoystick I was only getting output from three buttons and they were each triggering loads of buttons when pressed. However, replacing the section below "void loop() {" with this: SPISettings settingsA(1000000, MSBFIRST, SPI_MODE0); SPI.beginTransaction(settingsA); digitalWrite(ss,LOW); // reading only, so data sent does not matter buttonInputs1 = SPI.transfer(0x00); buttonInputs2 = SPI.transfer(0x00); buttonInputs3 = SPI.transfer(0x00); digitalWrite(ss,HIGH); SPI.endTransaction(); got it working and now each button/hat triggers correctly. The explanation of why this was necessary (as provided by the person who kindly assisted me) is that the original Teensy SPI code emulated the slow arduino Uno performance by default. That has now been changed to 'default to as fast as possible' which in most cases is a good thing, since the SPI code is blocking (code pauses until bytes are received) so you want them complete as fast as possible. So with the updated SPI libraries we need to explicitly say 'run slow'.

OK cool, sounds like you've got it sorted :) Personally I wouldn't have thought that light escaping behind the panel would be anything to worry about, as that's going to be enclosed anyway.

Something like this is what I had in mind to stop light bleed http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2352310&postcount=30 It's obviously easier to do that with the caution panel but perhaps the idea could be adapted to work with other panels with controls as well.