Reksi-Erkki

Hello! Can't wait to fly those fine birds.

Should be, check this thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=108246 Probably you'll need to deactivate the products in your PC before unlinking them from your account.

I've never had to actually use the throttle during a mission, but I'm sure there are situations that require it - what if the governor fails? The Huey has its own forum, under the Belsimtek area... the Mi-8MTV2 forum is there as well.

Have you enabled any autopilot channels?

I can't remember if I let my gunners take care of the ground troops, probably not - but they did shoot around a lot when I was buzzing the area. I usually give them the permission to fire at will when around enemy forces. Great that it works for you now! It's a good campaign, despite these little bugs here and there.

If I remember correctly, I took out the convoy on top of the hill near the LZ, wiped out the enemy ground troops and waited for a while. The mission is a success when friendly troops reach the area where the enemy troops used to be. Convoy B? Is that the one a bit further away to the South? I never fired a single shot at them myself, other flights took care of them. Maybe I'll have to refly the mission to refresh my memory a bit.

More about the mission in this thread... I couldn't complete it at all without a little edit :( http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=119296

I don't think you're supposed to follow the Hinds - they're going the same way, but your flight leader is in a Huey taking off from the FARP right in front of you. He's easy to follow.

So that's why my changes are never saved... maybe I should have read the manual properly :music_whistling: Rep inbound.

As far as I know, they won't work directly with anything but MS Flight Sim. Would be nice if they did - I would trade the realism of home-made panels with the simplicity of just buying stuff :) This thread might provide some assistance with the switch panel. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=118988

And in case you're using an English cockpit: See this post, second image. The switch is in the lower right corner; you can just see the text "BEACO" next to it.

I knew that information was available somewhere, just couldn't find it... my forumsearch-fu is weak tonight. I'd still prefer the throttle to go all the way if the button was pressed, though. Wouldn't waste much of the range either.

The throttle stop button was implemented in a recent update. I spent quite some time trying to figure out why the hell I cannot cold start the helo anymore... I fiddled with the controls with a bit just now, and it seems that pressing the button doesn't allow the throttle axis to go over the stop in either direction. PgUp will always increase the throttle, but PgDn won't take it below idle, unless the button is pressed. Probably the throttle axis was designed to be like this in the sim, so that you have full range when the engine is running. The button can be assigned to a controller. I had it assigned to the TM Warthog throttle, but had to look it up to verify - that's how much I've actually used it :)

Yes. It's really a very generic three-axis USB joystick interface - I expect it to accept pretty much anything with a 0V...5V output, provided that the output impedance isn't ridiculously high. But please don't trust me on this one, I've never tried with anything but the G940 pedals. I never noticed anything wrong with the throttle - except the bloody annoying noise on the trim pots caused by the short&tight wires - but the hysteresis on the pedals was just unacceptable with the A-10C. Especially on the runway with NWS on. Also, I needed a cheap pedal solution after replacing the throttle&stick with the HOTAS Warthog. I was actually planning to use a BU0836 for the pedals, but after I found out that the old firmware in the ones I had didn't work with Windows 7, I sent those for an upgrade and asked them to send me a pedal cable as well. Their customer service is really good, by the way!

I built a little box with two 9-pin D connectors and some wiring to convert the pinout - the pic you linked and http://www.lca.ympsa.com/joystick/g940diagram.jpg is enough to figure it out. No more hysteresis! I gave the set away when I got the Saitek Combat pedals, but they really were quite good after getting rid of the stupid hysteresis.

I tried and retried this mission quite a few times, but finally managed to drop the bastards using a pair of well-aimed rockets. That's what I call a lucky shot, as my aim usually sucks pretty bad. That's what the miniguns are for. I believe I rearmed and added the rockets before taking off, as they're not included in the original loadout. But I'm not absolutely sure about this.

Oh yes, I had forgotten about that. From the Kickstarter page: "ALPHA Tier 1. Everything at the $10 ORIGINAL level, plus a digital copy of all flyable aircraft in the initial release, plus ALPHA ACCESS. Estimated delivery: Feb 2014" Of course it's only the 5th of March, and delays always happen. But it would be nice to know a bit more, and get a new estimate. A realistic one. Maybe I should just change my support policy into "When It's Ready"?

^that. Prepare to add 20% if possible. Also, knowing your (approximate) location might help, as we can then look up the prices from your local shops. Our prices here in Finland are somewhat higher than US prices, and that's before considering the difference between dollars and euros... Generally, I'd pay for a good power supply - high wattage isn't that important, but the ability to provide stable high current to your components is. Go for a respected brand, preferably with a silver/gold/platinum rating. There are plenty of online reviews to support your choice. A bad PSU might fry other components in the worst case, not to talk about problems caused by noisy supply lines - they may be very hard to track down. 500W should be plenty, especially if you're not planning to add another GPU into the system. I'd go for an Intel CPU, but I have no experience with the current (as in the present millennium...) AMD offerings. NVidia is the way to go with the graphics, and with that I do have experience - it may not be the hardware that sucks, but I got SO fed up with AMD drivers... also, my next motherboard will not be an ASUS model, just too many quirks with this one. However, I'm more than two years behind with them too. The i7-2600K has been plenty, so I've had no real need to upgrade. It's just that whenever I boot the computer up, I cannot be 100% sure it actually will without tweaking with the BIOS. I might go with Gigabyte or MSI on my next build. And PCIe 3.0, although I don't know if there's going to be a measurable difference. My current GPU supports 3.0, but the MoBo doesn't. With RAM I went for low CL and moderate frequency - and it has been a good choice I think. 8GB of 1600MHz CL7 is what I have, it's pricey but gives nice performance. No real data to back that up though, just my semi-educated guesses. Modern 2400/CL11 memory will probably beat it hands down with certain tasks, but any random memory accesses (see RAM :)) will definitely gain from that low latency. However, I don't think you'll see any big differences on that. Any 1600+ from a decent brand will work just fine. Corsair should be very good. Get a good SSD instead of a traditional hard drive. Trust me on this one. You can add a (slow) storage drive later, as they cost peanuts per gigabyte. I got a 1TB Caviar Black at first, and while it's very fast for an HDD, it was no match to the Samsung 830 I purchased later. Not even close. Unfortunately SSD's were just becoming an option for the Insanely Rich at that time. The Caviar is serving me nicely as a storage drive now, even though it's a bit overkill for just that purpose. (BTW, after the change I was always able to loot the table in L4D2 before the others even had the safe room loaded :music_whistling:) If you decide to go with your proposed setup, I'd still try to find out the make/model of the PSU and the hard drive. There are differences, and they might be crucial. The CPU is OK as far as I can tell, but the motherboard could use another PCIe x16 slot for an SLI setup - DCS World might not benefit from it, but other games definitely will. I used to run Far Cry 3 happily with a 2xHD6870 Crossfire setup, but one wouldn't have been enough. Also, support your local PC store if you've got one - might cost you a bit more than online shops, but you can be sure that they will sell you stuff that's going to work, and if they're any good they can also NOT sell you stuff that would work 90% of the time, even if you wanted them to :) At the end, it's all about the budget and ease of upgrading in the future. Replacing the hard drive might require a full OS install if you can not clone the old drive, which probably will be the case for an HDD-->SSD upgrade. Graphics cards are generally easy, since you can usually completely remove the old drivers and software. A new CPU is easy if it'll fit the old motherboard - and if it does you probably wouldn't get that much out of it anyway. Replacing the motherboard too might lead to an OS install again. So there you have the final and definitive answer, have fun! :)

I like that idea. While I didn't even notice the Indiegogo thingy I'll probably buy the module - no matter if it's a public beta or a finished product. I like to have a wide selection of aircraft I can almost fly :)

I'd buy that for a dollar... or $49.99, that's fine too!

Definitely interested, depending on the price...

1. That frequency is probably the ATC. You'll find the beacons for ADF (and any radio) navigation from Lino_Germany's excellent map and his beacon list. 2. ? 3. Profit! (couldn't resist...) The kneeboard works nicely, since you can mark your position on the map - but if you're WAY off course, the map might not be large enough. Of course there's the F10 map, but it takes all realism out of the mission... the same could be said about the kneeboard, of course, but at least it's something you would actually have in the cockpit.

A high-contrast version (perhaps with a grayscale map/background) would be nice - especially if it's printed. I tried opening the current map with my Galaxy S2, no problems at all! Zooming&panning was very smooth. If it only had a 10" screen... maybe it's time to finally buy that tablet.

The .lua files for controllers can be found from your Saved Games folder; should be C:\Users\<username>\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input\<aircraft> if you have a standard installation. Make a backup of the G940 stick file and restart the sim; it should regenerate the file for you with the default bindings. Another option is to manually edit the file and find the line(s) for the Trimmer. There might be two lines, or the one you have is garbled in some way. I have the trimmer on the pinky button, looks like this: {combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN7"}}, down = iCommandPlaneTrimOn, up = iCommandPlaneTrimOff, name = "Trimmer", category = "Ins Cyclic Stick"}, For me, this happens when I edit the .luas to handle the toggle switches on the Warthog throttle; those assignments will have two lines in the controller settings, of which only one can be edited. And I'm not sure if they can be saved either.

Works fine for me, I've mapped the switch on my MFD along with blink/steady and off.