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Thick8

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Everything posted by Thick8

  1. I've built a collective with a hot swappable mount. I have the Huey head done and am working on the Kiowa. What I have now is extrapolated from some drawings and pictures. Does anyone have any dimensional drawings of the Kiowa head? John
  2. PETG is more resilient than PLA. The one with the brown handle is the PLA unit. The one with the black handle is PETG. PETG article https://3dbuildr.com/petg-filament/ PLA article https://3dbuildr.com/pla-filament/ I have one of each for sale. The new design will be printed out of PETG. I won't be building any after these 2. Other than the swappable head one I will use to make the video of course, and that one will be mine. I have an 8 hour a day job with a 2 hour round trip so taking this on full time just isn't in the cards right now. I tried but it just isn't working out. So basically I'm building my own collective with a collection of swappable heads and sharing it with the community. As I don't plan on open sourcing the design I figured the next best thing would to be offering up kits for a lower cost that a completed unit. I think some enterprising souls here may offer to build kits for a fee. So the price should stay pretty much around the $330 mark. This will give me the time to design and prototype new heads. Hope this answers your questions. John EDIT: The kit will consist of all the parts and hardware to build the collective. Some of the plastic pieces will be fitted out. The tube will be pre drilled. All required threads will be tapped out. There will be NO soldering or assembly work done. It will take a greater than basic skill to assemble the kit.
  3. YEAH! The first PETG one is done. This is the only one of these that I am going to make and sell. I will also be selling the PLA unit that I am using. Each for $275. In all fairness I have to share with you that I am testing a swappable head design which these 2 units will not be compatible with. The swappable head units will be priced differently and will be a self build kit. The drawings I shared in a previous post are of the UH-1H and the OH-58 heads. More heads will forth-coming. As soon as I finish building and testing the swappable head design (a couple of weeks) I will be posting it in the "Input and Output" forum. So armed with this information who still wants one of these?
  4. Less expensive alternatives. ;D https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=270254
  5. It's plug and play. It will have a legal PID/VID and show up in devices as UH-1H Collective. Initial calibration is done through Windows. Then you just.assign buttons and axis in DCS settings. The only issue is that there is no "off" assignment for the landing light. So there is a line you have to add in the UH-1H default controller file. The switch is an on-on switch so if DCS ever decides to fix that oversight then the collective is already wired for it. John
  6. Guess who forgot he used all his micro switches in another project??? Just waiting on them to arrive tonight(?) to finish the first unit. On a different note. I made my collective out of PLA. The drawback to that is it can't survive a hot environment. So lets say I put in a storage unit for a month for some reason. When I got back to it some of the parts could be warped from the heat. I addition it is also biodegradable and wearable. So for the commercial units I've switched to PETG which doesn't suffer those drawbacks. Unfortunately there is no "wood' or even a decent brown PETG filament. So I decided to make the first one with a black handle. I also printed a gray handle that matches the hat switch. I've ordered a filament called "Hannibal Red" that looks like it might be a mahogany color, We'll see... John
  7. Final part of the first PETG assembly is currently on the printer. I'm looking forward to seeing completed. On another note; it was a slow day at work today so I just sat in front of my computer all day drawing. There was a suggestion and a couple of requests so I figured "what the heck". This may or may not be feasible given the medium I'm working in but I have to try to print one to see.
  8. The printer's up and running again. Yea! The first one printed in PETG is about half way done. Hopefully it will be on it way to a new home before the end of the week. I figure I can do at least 1 a week. I've made several small changes that cut about 10 hours off the print times as well as make the wiring and overall build easier/quicker. I'll post an update later in the week. John
  9. Hey Miles, Thanks for your your kind words. I haven’t yet put this up in the other forum yet. I want to get some feedback from some of the hard core Huey pilots first. I’ve had several PMs thus far so I’m pretty excited. Unfortunately my 3D printer has developed an issue that I am addressing with the manufacturer. They’ve shipped a part that they think will correct the issue. I should (fingers crossed) be up and running again by mid week. John
  10. FINISHED! (mostly) I had an issue with my 3D printer and should have a new controller board here next week for it. then I can finish the cover for the base. Here's a link to pics of the finished unit. https://imgur.com/gallery/3TzHdMq I will provide a link to a video that demonstrates the balance system that I devised for it. It works like I dreamed it should and way better than I could have hoped. I plan on building at least 3 of these. If the interest is there I will probably do some more. I figure it will take about a week per unit as I have a regular 40 hour a week gig. The price will be $275 + shipping. John Links to vids
  11. You can output to the TV @ 1080p and have it upscale to 4K. Low upscale latency is a must for this. I would sit an arms length from the TV so a 1080p panel could get a little pixelated. I do VR so pixelated is a given. Not that bad with the O+ but still there.
  12. This would be great for the A10/Huey button box I have in the works. When and how much?
  13. Go to rtings.com to compare models. They break down the different aspects of the TVs. You want the lowest input lag and ghosting levels. I ended up with a Visio TV that has a Samsung panel. It was fairly inexpensive but looks great with no lag. https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/video-gaming
  14. I am a fan of my Odyssey +. Mainly because it has OLED panels. I've tried the LCD panel HMDs and come away wanting every time. It is quite comfortable after a couple simple mods. (I have a big head). Tracking is good, clarity is good, colors and blacks are great. Plug and play with no issues.
  15. Before I went VR I had HELIOS on a 22” touch screen. It made the game playable for me. Just having key-mapping was a nogo. Add 3 55” TVs and your set.
  16. If you don’t have a 3D printer you can buy European garden hose ends as they are the same size as the TM connector. Amazon has them. I think the brand name is Gardinia. I use them for my DIY extensions. Just drill holes in a nice hardwood board and epoxy the fittings into the holes. A little stain and viola, a work of art.
  17. First time seeing this. Nice work thus far. What's the next step?
  18. I just got some Carling on-on switches from zoro.com. I’m too lazy to get up right now to get the part # for you but zoro has a really good drill-down. Should take you less then a minute to find it.
  19. With the addition of a collective the SL feature is pretty neat. I too wish it were brighter (It’s nice to know that it will be) but it’s fun to play with. I’ve been practicing keeping it locked on a moving target while orbiting that target. Maybe I’ll get decent at it before it’s fully implemented :music_whistling:
  20. Finished printing the head and assembled for dry fit. It's 4 printed pieces. the head support, main body, front plate, back plate, and potentiometer bracket. Then there is the CNC'ed and lasered legend plate as well.
  21. There is a YouTube tutorial that is pretty in depth for the 3 viewport setup. Bring your calculator 'cause there's math involved.
  22. Wow that’s a lot of stuff on that head. Not that enamored with the aesthetics of it but there is definitely some functionality going on there. It’s at a comparative price to what I was thinking for mine. I have the pinky paddle switch on my WH stick set up as a modifier button. So I mapped armament functions to my collective. Almost all of my controller’s buttons serve 2 functions. I think it’s good that people will have some more realistically priced controller options going forward as the prices for some of the current ones is bordering on ridiculous. Laser cutter finished, time to go put the CNC head on the machine.
  23. STL is a stereolithography file used for 3D printers. Now ya know.
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