Thick8

still not at my gamerig but we can start. Make sure that none of your camera's image enhancing features are enabled (like low level light boost) and you are using it's native resolution. One important question. Have you removed the IR filter from your camera and replaced it with a visible light filter? I'll monitor the board just in case you're waiting. Wait I just read you have a PS3 Eye. I'm gonna go read up on it. Is it an IR tracking device? well it would seem that it is a visible light camera (not good for IR LED tracking). 120 FPS is good. The specs mention a zoom feature. It didn't mention if it's digital or mechanical?

I use FTnoIR. I used to use FT. the difference was like night and day. I can't get to my gamerig right now but I will be on tomorrow night and will post several setting to make FTnoIR much better for you. John

Thanks for that. The fact that I couldn't use the Helios radios and the ILS bars responding to roll and pitch instead of direction and altitude was frustrating. While I enjoy multiplayer there are just too many things broken in the 1.2.6. As there hasn't been an update for some time now I wonder if DCS isn't pumping all of their resources into the new engine I've been hearing about. John

Anyone have one? If so, what do you have it clocked to? Been thinking about a system overhaul. CPU=FX9370 MB=Asus M5A99FX pro GPU=XFX DD 280X And "Yes", I am an AMD fanboy... John

Turtle Beach True 5.1 headphones. Just can't beat 4 speakers per ear for accurate positional sound.

This is a great tool to fill in your diagram's ? http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz The forward voltage and current is printed on the bag of the IR LED's that you can buy at Radioshack or wherever you plan on buying them.

Yes, the ???-6000. I tried to find it too as I'm doing a ship to train fuel and ammo transfer that just has to be stopped. I haven't been able to find the trains either. John

Oops. I guess I should have looked in the encyclopedia...

Hi Guys, I don't know what everything is in the game. Is there a comprehensive list of all the vehicles (maybe with pictures) that are in the game? Something similar to IL2's vehicle interface. Thanks, John

Small cable ties provide a much cleaner look than duct tape. Plus if you need to take it back off it's much easier and you don't have to try cleaning off the tape residue.

So you go intoo the game and remove all the axis settings from the pedals. Then you remap them to the correct setting. Start the game and the pedals still controll roll. Then you go back to the settings page and the pedal axis are set to control roll again. Is this right? Did you check to see if maybe the control settings files are set to read only? Just an idea. John

Set your max up and down angle to less than 90 degrees with the curve sliders. On my Facetrack with a clip I had the same issue. When I looked down the view would spin erratically.

We both were. I'd like to wake up in 100 years from now. what an adventure that would be...

tell me how many wires are connected to this 8 way switch. I'm a secondary school robotics teacher and I have to teach students how to diagnose this kind of issue on a regular basis. John

I use Helios with CptLOZ's profile on a touch screen monitor. I'm very happy with it. It's easy and intuitive. Would I realize a better experience with Hawgtouch? John

So Deadman, If I said "I HATE YOU". Would you understand?... From, Green with envy.

Wait, I remember now. It's HIDmacro.

I have a small program made just for that (can't remember the name right now). It recognizes each keyboard independently form each other so you cam have several keyboards each configured differently. I'll post it later this evening when I'm on my game rig. John

You are right but you can take off the bottom plate and spray some electrical parts cleaner in them, then hit them with some compressed air and they're good as new. I did this about every six months with daily flying.

I have one similar to the first one. Mine is the older silver colored HOTAS model that splits into two pieces so you can have the throttle and rudder on your left side. It worked very well for several years till I replaced it with the saitek GA yoke and throttle. Which I then replaced with a Warthog. Both of those controllers now reside in the attic. I should probably put those up on Ebay. John

They would have to make EDGE capable of running on 2 GPUs to make the Titan a good choice.

I use 3 39" TVs. The view is great. some people have made high refresh rate recommendations for TVs. unfortunately Tv's that have a higher (120+) refresh rate don't "really" have that refresh rate. The TV's refresh rate is actually 60 but it's hardware does frame doubling to help remove motion bluring. While this is kind of a cool feature when watching football or Nascar, it's pretty much worthless for anything else. If you enabled it for gaming then you would experience a noticable input lag as it takes a little time for the hardware to convert the output to the higher refresh rate. Hope this helps, John

I LIKE IT! I sold my MFCD's to get a touchscreen. I hated the three finger commands as well. I used PVC with screwed joints for my frame. it's upgradable but I like your frame more. Here's mine. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=109693

I think you missed the part where he already owns the TV

I had very similar requirements as well when i used to play on the living room TV. the unit had to be stow-able so as not to interfere with the "flow of the room while at the same time be configurable for the different games I play. So I used a foldable second rom seat from a Windstar. I got it for free but one can be had for less than $50. This was mounted on a PVC frame that has interchangeable and removable components. Here it is in front of my 3 screen setup. If you're interested I can take some more pictures of it. I also have a CAD drawing of the PVC frame. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=109693