BitMaster

Good choice, my 2nd system, or better said my young son's rig, is my old 8700k with an Asus Z370 chipset and it was anything but RAM friendly. If they don't boot or BSOD, try 2x 32GB and avoid 4 modules on Asus Z370 ROG boards, they are known to be tricky with 4 sticks and another complication on top, like low latency or fast MHz... My 3600 16-16-16-16-26 kit only runs at 3000 without BSOD's, 3200 works almost but still occasionally shows BSODs, anything higher wont even boot the OS . If I take 2 sticks out and just run 2 of them, they work with 3600 XMP right away, and fly north of 4000 with some extra Volts... just not 4 modules. Mind that when you encounter errors, try just 2 on A2 and B2 and see if that works as intended.

One of those things you better get right first time ! It got as lot easier since Windows 10 or later do not need a bootloader and can start right off the actual disk. I usually use Acronis but I have company licenses for that and do understand that is maybe too much for a one time task. Anyway, it worked !

The only thing I do with my own 5900X is setting a manual OFFSET of -26 for all cores in Bios. In simple terms, I undervolted it. Use AMD's Ryzen Master App to measure each cores max Offset and either use set "per core" setting, or settle with a setting all cores can run with, with my CPU all cores do -26, some would do -28 but I thought dialing back 2 ticks is never a mistake. FYI; -30 is max negative Offset ( biggest undervolt ).My -26 does result in ~150MHz more on the top performing cores on CCD1 ( 4950MHz with Offset ) and overall less wattage/less heat. I would certainly NOT overclock it the "old" way, more volts more heat for 150-200MHz more. Instability, wear&tear and foremost HEAT will haunt you. I tried a lot out of curiosity and tbh, it won't pay back. Offset the Volts and call it a day.

BigNewy, this is exactly what one should NOT do, add to the exception list ! It is one of those "easy way out" solutions that opens the door for further potential bad things to happen. Whoever created that file should send it to MS, not the end user with limited knowledge. That is, in my personal opinion, the right way of handling this. If I want my product to be accepted and considered safe I must take care and not leave it alone with the Banana idea " ripes on it's way to the customer". Sorry for not aligning here, I have seen to many bad things happen that wouldnt need to be if things had been taken care of properly first place.

Any statement from the devs or people who feel otherwise responsible for this encrypted DLL file ? It's how you handle such incidents, not that they occur per se, it happens to all. Uninstalling is the ONLY safe option because if it really hurts your system it is very likely that anyone held responsible for this to happen will ask you" Why didnt you take action once you got the warning ??" You will have no correct answer and will be blamed for not taking action while you could. If you are one foot into this game of security and responsibility, you know that taking immediate action is NOT a fault and follows the "Better safe than Sorry" principle. Does this hurt the general DCS experience ? Yes, it does if average Joe is left alone with in-the-depth security concerns. Just my 2 cents as someone who gets paid to secure networks and give advice to deciders. You never suggest the easy & unsafe way.

Just had this pop up in my Defender. anyone else seeing this ?

One more reason to not buy the newest chips and chipsets right after release. The least that I need are BSOD's while in the middle of my work, rather 200MHz slower but stable.

The benefit of such mice and keyboards, with ONBOARD ROM, is that you do NOT need any software installed once you configured your devices. That's a big benefit. Buy, configure, deinstall software, done...unless you need to reconfigure DPI etc.. Also, if you use Linux, it's not possible to program your mouse/kb in Linux but you can do it on ANY windows and then use the settings on any machine through the onboard ROM. Tbh, just ordered a 2nd G502 this morning for myself, my old G700 is falling apart and i cant take my son's new G502 all day or he'll yell at me..LoL

I just got my new G502 mouse today and after a decade of G700 I am puzzled with how damn complicated a mouse can be...LoL Yes, I hate that G-Hub/LED Kindergarten LED software too, still need to work my way "into" the mouse.

You can add files and/or folders to Kaspersky‘s exclusion list. in some cases, this will not help and you have to change your AB vendor i have a case where Kaspersky wouldn’t allow a certain part of business software. We moved to Acronis Cyber Security and that worked. for home users, the included Microsoft defender is a good solution, no need to pay for AV unless you have your reasons.

That is only one part of the equation, you also need to find out your CURRENT Public-IPv4 address which your friends need to know to find your server. Either look it up in your router via browser, it should state it somewhere -or- visit a website that shows your IP that you connect from, which is usually your dynamic IP address that does change on certain occasions, like re-connect, time-value ( aka every 24h ) etc.. but it does change for dynamic DSL/Cable/Fibre connections. http://www.whatismyip.com will show your connection settings. Have your pals PING your IP, if the ping doesnt work you need to find the reason for that. Unless your router drops PING packets one should be able to ping your IPv4 and verify your home connection is accessible from "world". The worst could be that you are behind/inside a CGN ( Carrier Grade Network ) that would suddenly void all attempts to host ANY server, DCS, https, mail...etc.. all impossible. But if it worked a day ago, chances are high that you are not in such an unlucky situation of a CGN setup. Usually CGNs for homes have a NATed IPv4 but have a fully valid/public IPv6, which DCS doesn't yet support afaik.

I guess "high" since the Editor Tool is anything but easy to work with, it's a study job that you need a lot of patience for imho.

Man, Have fun with it !

You can try, if you like overclocking, the kit that I use, 3200 14-14-14-34 and set it to 1.48v and go 3600-14-14-14-34 Either way, I would only pick a B-Die module 3200 or faster, CL16 or lower.

At which resolution do you intend to use that card ?

Gen5 makes sense if the price is right, temps are manageable and the drive supports Direct Storage too for future games, maybe even DCS some day. For most cases tho, a good Gen4 is all you need.

+1 8 years here, still trusting it. Paid for itself

I wpuld not pick the twelve core but go for the 1-tile 8-core 7800X3D instead. A: It has 2 more cores that can use the bigger cache B: there is no scheduler cleverness needed here, it's only 1 type of core, avoiding headaches. If you need more cores, go for the full 16 core 7950X3D so you have 1 tile with 8 cores on 3D cache but may have to tweak affinity here and there, depending on the cleverness of the software involved.

R.I.P. Don You passed away on my birthday, don't have words.

Haha, just saw your sig. I just watched that Episode on YT and had a laugh. Oh man, what a difference to most of today's comedians. "Hick's, noch 'nen Pahlgruber !?"

Cinebench R24 does use both; CPU and GPU. The tests run for 10min each, so it's kind of a little stress test per default benchmarking, no more "1 good run and hopefully not crash before" ( for the LN guys ). https://www.maxon.net/en/downloads/cinebench-2024-downloads

Beirut's attitude is the most important part, it's not only hardware and software and bugs and frustration, It's about forgetting it all and FLY

It doesn't actually matter what exactly causes your RAM to be eaten up like cheesecake. Is it dcs.exe, some cache, who knows...if it screams for more give it more. When playing online on busy servers, some F2 and F10 and ooops 48-56GB, repeatingly. No, it's feasible, more than 64GB might come as the new Go-To capacity over the next 2-3 years when newer, more complex modules, newer maps etc... they all seem to add CPU load and increase RAM requirements, slowly creeping upwards

You will need to either move C to a bigger drive or delete some apps and/or files. You may need someone to help you to do that, I don't know but it needs to be done ASAP. There could be a Bios setting to control shared VRAM or a setting in Nvidia control panel for Max-Q series / Laptop. YOu should be able to google that. Either way, C drive is imminent to fail, act now.

Well, then, that's not good because you will force DCS to it's knees if you take some 8GB away from the already minimum capacity of 16GB total system RAM. Change that setting to it's smallest setting or even 0. With 1080p your onboard 8GB are enough. Have you fixed the C-drive issue ? With 5GB free space, you are bound to crash hard pretty soon.