BitMaster

The difference at IONOS for example is 28,-€ a month, same dedicated Server hardware, just the OS. In theory ED could sell a DCS Linux Ded. Server license for 99€ and the guys were happy to save 28€ every month. Make it ~6 month worth, 150€ per server is still better than 12x 28€ per year... This is a huge disadvantage for Everybody but Microsoft.

It comes down to something like this Fast - Cheap - VRAM :Pick any two The biggest card will serve you the longest and may carry you one or two series further before you have to buy again. I would not consider any card below 16GB these days if you aim at anything higher than FullHD but if you need the VR kick there is another old saying: If you want to run with the wolves you need to know how to howl. You need a fast card with max VRAM and that won't come cheap and won't be a xx70 series, rather xx80 or xx90 (Ti).

I have done a few setups with PowerLine Adapters and the only thing I can truly tell you is that you have to test it at your very specific outlets to get an answer. PowerLine works better the less sophisticated your wiring is. Modern homes with 3 outlets in each corner and 3 light switches, plus electric blinds and what not else have a lesser chance of good experience. Older homes with less cables, connectors, switches etc. usually have a better chance of a good connection. But again, that is very specific between the 2 outlets involved, only testing will tell it. That's my experience with a handful of installs. I personally prefer a proper WLAN, with wired AP's and Repeaters only if cabling is not doable. That is also cheaper than a good PowerLine combo, those reputable 1200er or 1500er etc. aren't cheap.

With helicopters it a bit different in from what you can learn from just flying it. An airplane can pretty much teach you how it wants to be flown over some hours, you will eventually get the idea what works and what not and you should also be able to understand why it is as it is...with a Heli it is not that self explaining and it really really pays to look at the rotor head and how it works, both collective and cyclic moves and why the Ka can do well over 350 in a dive and how to pull out w/o breaking anything...if you understand what the rotor does. There are plenty videos on YT explaining how Helis fly, with and w/o flybar, Tail rotor assisted or Coax driven, it pays to know what the mechanics can do, how they work and what they don't like. Having had R/C helis for years made it 10x easier for me to adopt to the Mi-8 or any other heli I own.

https://www.trackir.eu/de/info/Treiber-Software.html german, but works

Iirc this is mainly for guys who run their mice at at or above 1000 polls per sec and gaming keyboards that can also flood the USB bus with polls and polls over polls. I doubt that our Hotas Gear and usual peripherals cause that stutter, it's more found in FPS games with ultra sharp mice and fast keyboard settings. But hey, it may iron out a few things too that we suffer from as well.

These days I wouldn't necessarily call it overclocking cause it is more the opposite of what it used to be. Overvolting became undervolting and thus everything changed in regards of CPU and GPU "tuning". RAM overclocking is still the old fashioned way ala "give more juice and see how far it goes" kind of thing. So when I look at my own Ryzen, it's undervolted with an -26 Offset and that is all I did for the CPU, I wouldn't call this overclocking but "tuning this specific die to it's (lower) native volts". I have watched and followed many tips of how to squeeze some more MHz out of it but it is not worth the time and possible gains. Likely this is the same with many new CPU's. Keep them as cool as possible, may tune the volts down and see how much more it can deliver by itself. Actually, a blessing to do it that way. For my RAM, yeah..that's a tad different. I wanted to play with them, I wanted 3600 and the lowest CL that runs stable no matter what I throw at it and I achieved it, easily too. Regarding data, I did not mean scientific data, no one should do that work on an overclocked DCS rig...hell no. What I mean is corrupting your NTFS, crippling Windows and forcing a reinstall or at least a "sfc /scannow" followed by some "DISM" commands if you are lucky. Especially when you do RAM testing, DO NOT use your usual Win install, it will become corrupted if you walk at the edge of BSOD etc.., use a bootable Linux and memtest etc... if it's stable there, you may try your windows.... just keep an eye open for NTFS corruption if you still BSOD out of the blue.

I wouldn't run an OC that I know will likely fail under full load. It must run stable under all conditions, anything else is a big risc for your data integrity over time.

ahh, nahhh, not that easy. He bought that PSU when he was mining with 2x 1080ti and the CPU. If I follow your advice...4090 + 7xxx3D low-wattage CPU and tailor my PSU to just fit that need...what will do in 3 years when maybe all of the top dog CPUs suddenly need 150-250w across the board and you want to upgrade..it's not unlikely to come that way. Buy another new PSU...150w bigger...that is more expoensive in the end after all, total sum. Also, the "my 50% advice" is not my advice, it is what most hardware testers suggest as best practise. At 50% load your currents are still very clean, your PSU most efficient and least wattage is wasted in heating up the PSU. Paying thousands of Dollars and Euros for Gear and what not else but argue about a safety margin.... sounds similar to "my data is gone !" "have you made a backup ?" "What for ?" I wouldn't sell you that cause I wouldn't want to be the one to blame.

64GB and 2x NVMe. 2x2GB or 1Gb+2GB or even a 4TB one as the Game/Apps-NVMe. Put in first class fans, PSU Titanium or Platinum, a good watercooler and prepare to repaste the CPU every 4-6 years depending on your usage.

Looks ok to me, but as said above..an i3 needs HT due to the lack of cores. One minor thing you might want or need. USB state in S4/S5 mode basically defines if your USB can charge a phone or tablet while in sleep or even powered off. You might want to enable that. Usually the board's manual states if there is a tool to install in Windows to enhance this with even more wattage ( Asus does with AiCharger or similar name and my GB board does it too, I guess MSI has an equivalent tool/function.

I recommend not to turn off pagefile, there are plenty reasons. First one, even with 64GB DCS can run into issues. I have seen my DCS hitting 58GB in use and about 30ish GB pagefile. Luckily I had my pagefile at System controlled and it had enough space to do that on a 980Pro. Not saying DCS breaks thru the 64GB barrier with ease, no, not yet, but even with 64GB you can run into very high RAM usage in DCS and a pagefile will safe your a** that day. With 32GB it's as above, just more common and almost certain on heavy MP that your 32GB will not suffice and a pagefile is your only savior. I will link a video about RAM I watched lately. It is basic knowledge everyone should be aware off. Like an empty gas tank light and tyre thread, you should know those if you drive a car...

Maybe you can find out which Hynix IC that is and then find the preferred latency values for them. *Luc posted faster...

Bucic, your RAM needs 1.40 Volts according to the Gskill website *if you run it at or just below 4000MHz* and I wouldn't lower it manually unless it is proven stable first. I adviice ..leave it at 1.41ish Mine runs at 1.500v in HWinfo and Bios is set to 1.485. It's normal that they overshoot and it's ok to give a lil extra. Check Typhoon Burner https://www.softnology.biz/files.html and see if it reads your die's. All die's have a set of timings they like best, usually regardless of who solders them to a PCB ( Gskill, Corsair, Patriot, etc.. ). Once you know what Dies you run you can use those values to tune them in if you like. Most important why to know what Die is the Max Voltage question...if it's B-Die and you got good airflow you can have 1.45-1.50v all day all year rock solid. Typhoon will very likely be blocked by your Antivirus, Kaspersky and Defender do it but you can set it as "allowed", meanwhile my now deployed Acronis Security Suite blocks it, despite all allowances and checkmarks..meh.

Before dialing in Volts above 1.40 volts you should know which IC your RAM uses and read up on max safe voltage for those. B-Die can take 1.50v 24/7 whereas some other DDR4 IC's will already be up in smoke past 1.45ish. I would manually set my timing to a lower speed, i.e. 3600 with the same timings at 1.35v and see if that boots and runs OK, then you can climb the ladder if you want step by step. 3600-3800-4000 may need to raise Volts to 1.37-1.385ish to gain stability and may also reduce RAM training time needed when booting. Volts can have a big impact on training time. Don't dial in 1.475v with the wrong die, it could be instant death according to some RAM-Guru's on YT.

There is an old bug haunting GFE and likely many/any controllers which will prohibit the PC from going to sleep mode. I have this bug for years on 3 different architectures. if you suffer it and need your PC to go to sleep you either need to find the controller that causes it and disconnect it after use ( throttle on my end ) or deinstall GFE, which is what I did.

I am confident you will regret purchasing anything but a 64GB kit. LucShep is spot on imho.

The only way DCS runs in Linux from my knowledge is via Steam and it's Proton solftware. I use it too out of curiosity and it works with my Hotas and Pedals but I struggle with TiR. There might be a way w/o Steam but I am not aware of it.

I don't know why this is so complicated. If one spents 1500€/US$ on a GPU plus a ton of money for CPU, Board, RAM, screen, VR, Chair, Hotas, Rudders, 25 Modules + 5 Maps.....why do you argue about 150watts ??? My guess is that those of you who favor the lesser wattage and likely lower ATX rating ( Bronze, Silver, Gold... ) PSU have not done PC repair for a living and seen what people like me have encountered over the years. Cutting corners on a PSU is a bad idea. Here, you rather follow the "50% Load, buy double that and make it Platinum too" advice Your devices will be better protected by things like OCP, OVP, SCP, etc... plus in most cases much better components inside the PSU for a cleaner, healthier DC flow. I have such an example next to me, 1000w Titanium, 100€. a joke of a PSU... 1080ti it killed and a nice MSI X570 board .... cutting corners often ruins another day. I warned that guy more than once, tried to force him in buying a better PSU...he didnt follow my advice. about 9 month later, see result 1 line above. If you buy a 1500€ GPU and couple it with a 100€ PSU and then experience strange things....don't call my number, that's how I put it these days.

They should be very accurate. Done that for years on 3 different Builds but not for this current rig. ..if I could just find this stupid cable to attach my AXi dongle to my USB again...sigh....you can also split the rail and define max Ampere per cable, nice feature.

Things you can do if you haven't done them yet are updating Bios or if the newest one is installed then hit the "Clear CMOS" button and set it up again. My board had 2 Bios' issued lately and one of them caused my Corsair Keyboard to go dead once in a while, unplug-plug_back_in solved the problem quickly but in the end I took another Port and ever since it's ok again. In other words, you need to shuffle the cards and hope for better luck. Update all that you can, Bios, Chipset, and/or reset Bios, change Ports from Southbridge-bound to CPU-bound or vice versa ( check your mobo's block diagram which USB connects directly to CPU and which one goes to the Southbridge Chip or even a 3rd Party USB controller onboard or AIC. If it is not the hardware, it's even harder to pinpoint what it is...Good Luck

It's not that easy to pinpoint the exact power draw for a motherboard since any power delivery to any device but the GPU_12V cables goes through the board, one or the other way.. Even there, up to 75w for the GPU can be delivered via the board's PCIe slot. Add 4 RAM modules, multiple drives, Southbridge chip, Audio chip, fans, pump, LED ( ok, that's a minor thing ) but it all adds up. Measure on the wall and deduct CPU and GPU draw, that's how many watts your board distributes to connected or embedded devices. Mine for example idles at 160 watts w/o screen. GPU in idle ~25Watts, CPU ~50w....round about 75watts. That's 85watts for the 15 fans, 1 pump, board power, all attached USB devices. Either way, stay friendly and have fun

I love'em ! No other channel has such a wide spectrum and also enough skilled Pilots at hand to make such things happen. The quality of video editing, as Beirut says, presented in such a pace is astonishing. There are things DCS can do that I only know form their videos and I wouldn't be surprised if not one or the other setting/bug/feature got tuned or fixed by ED because of that.

YouTube is mostly what you make out of it. Similar to Google Search in some sense. If a channel lifts off and sails from 5k towards 50k and then 500k subs it is not hard to imagine how that may change some peoples life and ultimately change the videos they make one or the other way. It depends on how that is handled, sudden success, and if the viewer survives the transition from a casual YouTuber to a semi or full professional YouTuber that then makes his most income with those videos, permanently ( best daily ), etc etc. to obey the Youtube algorithm and stay on top of the wave.

The only privately owned Jet or Helicopter Helmets I have seen were all from retired service men and no one would ever sell them. Immersion is nice but those helmets are clumpsy, heavy, have proprietary connectors and all that. Maybe the "Made PRC" 49,99€ helmet from eBay is the better option. I would not want to wear that Sea Stallion helmet I saw at my former buddies place. He was a Backdoor guy on one of those and the helmet was a big as that heli LoL.