JDski

Try fine tuning your filters under the settings options that are available while you have the tracking window up in the TrackIR software. In the menu select view/tracking.

I only think you can go so low with the view while on the ground, but you can use the mouse or hat to move the view around unless you changed those from default..

Flight director on gives you a feeling of more control of the aircraft. Not quoting, but I believe it said for flying NOE, avasive manuevers, and airshows. I like it for when I want to feel I have complete control and make the aircraft more responsive.

You can also use the mouse to look around too. Does anyone remember the DOS game Apache? I spent many hours flying that sim. Look at those awesome graphics, lol. http://www.mobygames.com/game/dos/apache/screenshots

Auto pilot worn't work if you have flight director on either. I usually go in these steps. Take off with fight director on and fly towards the 1st waypoint and trim. Turn off flight director, then turn on route mode. As soon as I turn on route mode, the auto pilot takes over. Auto pilot doesn't control speed. It seems much easier and faster to get close to your cruising speed and direction using flight director mode. Once there, then I turn on the auto pilot and then make finer adjustments to speed and altitude, and then I engage alt hold, and do a squeeze on the collective brake to set the altitude.

I lost my left engine once at high alt, but I managed to get it restarted in flight. I was pretty surprized that it restarted. Never had anymore problems after that and completed my mission.

My appologies, I read your post too fast it seems the first time and missed that your allready doing that.

You might want to look at this thread. It might be the cause and a solution. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=36835

I would say the best way to fly at first is with FD on, and pitch, bank, and heading hold channels on. This will make it fly like what you might expect a helicoper to fly, or closest to it. You still should trim, but it's not needed as often with FD on. If you want to switch FD off to get the feel of flying without it and feel the full effects of the hold channels, first make sure your in a steady flight, then hit the trim, then turn FD off. Only with FD off can you really feel the effects of what the heading, pitch, bank, and alt hold channel do. With FD on they only act as dampers. The Alt hold channel is for when you want to hold your altitude obviously. Keep in mind there are two settings for this. Baro alt and radar alt. Baro alt hold the same alt that your at when you set it, and is more or less measured from sea level. Radar alt (set on as default) only works up to 300 meters and trys to keep you at the alt your at above the ground at which you set it. So it will make you climb and descend over the terrain up to a limit. But you still need to be on your toes around steep hills or mountains. Just be sure to turn the alt hold off when you don't need it and plan on changing your altitude. The only hold channel you will turn on and off should be the alt hold. The other ones should always be left on.

It looks like in your track you never turned on engine anti ice. You also didn't turn on rotor anti ice until you were at 3750. Lastly you didn't have any forward momentum. Try tuning on both engine and rotor anti ice at 3000 to use those as a preventative measure, and keep the forward momentum. Also try to stay on course. Route mode works good on those long rides. ;) It looks like you overstressed something that lead to the failure, but I didn't catch it or hear the warning. I'm guessing from trying to climb without any forward momentum caused that because you weren't moving when it happened.

Thanks for that info Frederf, that's good to know. It can save much time in the heat of battle. Plus keep the Abris from getting all cluttered. I will have to start using this method and maybe just store the Sams and AAA.

Yea but we can't cuddle up to the forum here when we go to bed and wake up with drool all over it.:book: mR.Waffles, I checked with Kinkos and it's was like $200 just for black and white. Close to that anyways at 9 cents a page. Now that was for all manuals but still it was just too much.

Not all of us have access to printers that use the more economical toner carts. I think I converted the price of the manual to around $55 USD. If that's near what it would cost me in HP printer carts, I would rather wait for the neater pre organized manual that might have extra content and maybe even color. It would be nice to have the manual now though while I'm still learning everything.

So this would still send the recipient an icon on his Abris that would look the same as one sent from memory? Do you have to stay locked on the target for him? If not, I'm wondering what happens if you do this multible times, and do you still tell your wingman to engage datalink targets the same way as stored ones?

Let us know how many printer cartridges you use. I thought about having Kinko's do one, but it was like a couple hundred bucks.

I had this happen and I found my joystick was spiking. I cleaned the pot and all is good.

The step I use to zoom on a position on the map is the same as described above, but here are the exact steps I use. On the Abris, click, NAV / Map / ERBL. Now scroll horizonally with the right abris dial. Right click right abris dial. Now scroll vertically with the right abris dial. Click Marker / Info / Info You should now be centered over the red square box you moved around with the right abris dial after your second "info" click. Warning! Don't hit the "To" soft key button at this point because it will make that marker your "go to" position on the abris and delete all of your other waypoints etc.

And look on the upper right on the collective stick. Forward=route mode/ middle off/ back=autohover descent I just wish I could make the route mode "push to hold on" instead of "switchable" so I could have it assigned to a switch on my throttle. Now I have to switch to the on position to turn on, switch back to neutral, then switch back to the on position to switch off. The autohover descent mode switch is however a push and hold switch which works well with a switch on my throttle.

I've been lucky doing flight sims because I'm part left handed and right handed. I normally use the mouse with my left hand, and I am comfortable using the joystick in the right. I'm mostly right handed with everything except I write with my left and the mouse of course. It's like I'm left handed but right armed. Although I use sissors with my right hand. I can't use both equally so I'm not really ambidextrous. I'm really not sure what the heck I am.

The voice command is "ground electric power" if that helps. Are you telling me what you had to modify with those other items or did you need some help modifying them? I'm not usuing any profiles for my Cougar, I'm just running mine in windows mode right now.

Great, I'm glad to hear that it's working for you. If you ever get stuck in a command, you can always just say the F# shortcuts (F1, F2 etc.) as they are in there too. You'll need them for telling ground control your desired loadouts because I didn't attempt to try to put the actual loadouts in there.

I've landed with auto hover on in descent mode without problems. Yes it becomes disabled, but if your trimmed good for a hover without auto hover, it shouldn't go crazy. I usually do most landings myself with flight director on and only the pitch, bank and heading channels activated now though.

I did a shoot 1.6.4 profile just for radio comms. It follows the voice comm menu structure. It will need some modifying for your activation button as it is set up to "hold to talk" with device 1, button 22 which is a button on my Cougar throttle hotas. Some of the commands are are changed from the actual menu commands, so you would want to look over the file to see what is different. Keep in mind this only took under an hour for me to put together. But it should at least save you some time putting together your own by just customizing it a bit. Black Shark2.zip

It would be better then them having a strong Southern US draw thats for sure.

I like the movies where they do a good accent. Example: Defiance vs. Valkyrie. I think speaking with a good accent is a bonus skill for an actor. But I tell you, I had a hard time following Letters from Iwo Jima the first time I watched it.