Scott-S6

I sympathize but there is a simple solution. Wait. Don't play the early access module at all and even after full release wait another couple of years. At that point it is unlikely that there will be significant changes.

Even if they wanted to, where is the performance data from which to build it?

Have a look in this thread https://forum.dcs.world/topic/200423-is-it-possible-to-change-ns-430-2d-pop-up-window-position/#comment-4954655

I dislike a mechanical switch for this application. If you have a decently stout spring then that switch will get thumped anytime you don't lower the handle very carefully. A mag switch does not have this problem, it's easy to setup your handle so that nothing touches the mag switch. In what way do you feel that a mechanical switch will be more reliable?

Here's a way to get pulses from a simple switch without an Arduino or any extra software. https://forum.dcs.world/topic/299916-guide-simple-cheap-standalone-electronic-solution-for-single-pull-ejection/ The most mechanically simple method, imo, is to have a mag switch which is open when the magnet is close. All your handle mechanism has to do is move the magnet away which is easy since you're pulling on the handle. You connect that to your Arduino as a switched digital input.

What you're referring to is a Dymo label. You can still buy these and the mechanical label makers are inexpensive, if you want them for your cockpit.

I haven't tried it but it does seem a little crowded. When I was using monstertech mounts I had the MFDs mounted to the desk plate.

I do play spacesim also and the analog stick on the throttle works fine for me. I can see the benefit to having it on the thumb though.

The analog stick on the alpha is ideal for elite. The forward rake it has is important for using it side stick. The more vertical mongoose is ideal for center stick. I use one side stick (with an extension) but have the base angled forward to achieve a suitable angle.

Show us what you've done in the configurator with screen shots.

You gotta plan for getting stung for import. Budget for it and then when you get hit you were expecting it. When it slides through customs then bonus!

Have a look at page 52 of the manual. This explains what the throttles (power levers) do. It's very simple on the apache - when the engine management system is working you have three positions: off, idle, fly. Pretty self explanatory. You can also take manual control of the engines ("lock out") but that's not for normal operation.

And I say that you drastically overestimate how many people care about how "powerful" an airframe is, versus having a module that has the characterstics of the aircraft as it served. Not to mention - where is the detailed data on the F15E-minus-CFT's performance from which to build the flight model?

You can use this to tune the AB detent in the plane to match the AB detent on your throttle. https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3315617/

You're drastically overblowing how complicated this is. You look at the map and see what's going on. That gives a good idea where you're likely to be fighting. Look at how far that is from the nearest fuel source, set bingo to the amount of fuel you'll need to get there plus a bit extra. Also, did you figure out if you were actually running low on fuel after 15mins? Or if you were accidentally in AB?

In this case, yes. The work to develop the FM for removed CTs, especially considering the drastically less available data, just so a handful of people can use the modules a crude facsimile of something it's not is not a good use of developer effort.

The aircraft doesn't know which airfield is your destination or if you plan on refueling. Consider a mission where you refuel inflight on the way in and out. There may well be sections of the flight where the fuel needed to return to your starting location is more than the aircraft can carry, making the automated bingo value you suggest completely useless. Bingo fuel is something you need to work out based on your planned activities.

That question was for OP. If he's hitting bingo early and isn't cruising with his burners engaged (dubious) then his bingo settings might be the cause.

What do you have bingo fuel set to?

You can modify lefy+camera+right lua. The zero of X and Y is the top left. Therefore your center viewport is x=0, y=0, width=1920, height=1080 From your screen shot your MFD screens are disabled. Clearly they aren't 800x600 and arranged like that (and you want them set to the lowest resolution they support that has the same ratio). You'll need to show how they're actually arranged for more help. However, as an example. if the left mfd screen is 800x600, positioned to the right of the main screen at the top then it would be x=1920, y=0, width=800, height=600 If you get why then you'll be able to work it out from there. Obviously, the left mfd isn't going to be the whole screen, just a square positioned to match your bezels but we'd need to know the resolutions, how the screens are positioned in display settings and where on the display your bezels are mounted to even guess at the coordinates.

For example, the flaps lever is analogue. That's fine for some some modules but for others there's no analogue option for flaps, just buttons. You can specify, again just an example, that 0-30% is a virtual button and 70-100% is a virtual button. Now you can use the flaps lever as an analogue control or an on-off-on toggle switch (like the warthog flaps lever) depending on how you bind it. If you have 40-60% also setup as a virtual button then you can also bind it as an on-on-on toggle switch. You'll want to do the same with the slider and setup virtual buttons for the idle detent as well (there are no idle detent buttons without configuring this) at minimum.

Not at all. The F16 uses the Raytheon ACESII, the SJU-4 is a Talley Industries seat. It does seem to have some Martin Baker inspiration and it is a through-canopy naval seat, so really very different.

And Virpil CM3. Just have the settings the same as the TGP, that's perfect.

I have an adjustable damper - it does not remove the problem. It does mean that less clutch force is needed and less frequent adjustment is needed. It also means that when your clutch slips the collective falls very slowly and steadily rather than the accelerating drop that we get without. Damper and counterweight is the answer, at that point you completely remove the need for the clutch.

I have mine setup with a blackhawk grip and an extension that makes it as long as an Apache grip - can confirm that the problem is exacerbated. I have a damper on mine and it doesn't completely remove the clutch problem (but it falls really slowly now, at least).